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About Tom1200

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Cars
    Datsun 1200 coupe
  • Interests
    Vintage racing, rally , vintage motocross, riding my Beta 520RS

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  1. Very cool I'm getting ready for this season as well. My final job is putting the C-sedan stickers on the car; I went back to the smaller engine so I'm running CS this year. I was running GTL (VARA) and was in the B-sedan group. The 510s are getting an amazing amount of power, 45 years of constant development will do that for you. Good luck this season
  2. I'm using Koni classics part # 80-1551 which are for Alfa Romeos. I've got the Nissan Motorsports leaf springs on the car and it's pretty low.
  3. Tom1200

    KA with sidedrafts

    While I have 0 knowledge of KAs getting the jetting in the ballpark should be easy enough; figure out your power output and RPM range, then simply find jetting recommendations for the same size webers running close to what you have. That should make it run well enough to either take it to a dyno place to fine tune it or if you have an A/F ratio gauge fine tune it that way. Even after you get it running well take it to a dyno place and pay for an hour. That extra fine tuning works wonders
  4. I am not a Datsun mechanic nor have a I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express but on the two I've actually had to install I just used JB Weld. The factory ones do seem like the are bonded to the block. The last time I had to remove a factory installed one if took me close to an hour to get it out, I had to use heat on the block.
  5. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the R180/160 diff side of the driveshaft different from the H190? Additionally doesn't the B210 use an H150 (possibly H165) which again is different from the H190?
  6. Mike I should have been more clear; regardless of what shaft I get it will need to be shortened. Besides the longer snout of the H190, the 1200s 90.5" wheelbase, there is the fact that I have the motor and trans pushed back 2" relative to the stock motor location. I have a custom driveshaft in it now but that's for a 60 series trans and H190. I got that one from Dave Patten
  7. I was curious as to how hard it is to find 510 wagon driveshafts? My 1200 uses a H190 rear I want to install my 63 series 5 speed and obviously that's the same set up that is stock in a 510 wagon.
  8. 99% of my running is on one track so once I adjust the dampers I pretty much set it and forget it. Paradime is the 510 in the autocrossed video the same one that Mark Nettersheim is now running with VARA?
  9. I find it great that there is some good debate on this post as always it's all about option that work for a particular set up. When posting this my only intention was to let people know of another option. First, when I say I prefer soft as possible on the shocks/dampers that is in conjunction with bigger sway bars. Second, multi adjustable dampers are indeed better than single and single adjustable are indeed better than rebound only. The only caveat being that you know what you're doing when you adjust them. My modern off road bike has adjustments for high and low speed as well as compression and rebound adjustments.......you can screw it up royally if you're not knowledgable. It's an open class bike and I weigh 140lbs so the set up is very specific to me, my riding style and the terrain I ride. Paradime; a giant yes they do, on how much leaf spring cars move around on the rear suspension. If you've seen any of the videos of my 1200 on track most find the amount of movement downright alarming (as do some of my fellow racers) yet I manage corner speed equal to or better than other cars. Part of that is the car being 150-200lbs lighter, part of that is my driving but most of it is through set-up. I use the exact set-up out of the Nissan suspension manual. I'm even on bias ply tires. My thoughts are smarter people than me figured this stuff out. For sure Troy Irmish's cars (both GTL & vintage) are the gold standard but there is more than one way to skin a cat. Neeley's 510 netted some very good results with multiple drivers over the years. That car used non-adjustable dampers custom valved for the car. A friend raced the car for something like 20 years and had very good results with it. On my car I worked with the Koni distributor and found dampers that would work best with wheel rates/motion ratios. The Koni classics (80-1551 for Alfas) along with 8610s work well for the budget I'm working with. We actually found some Ohlins that were close but not quite right, those would have set me back around $2000. So coming back to the dampers in question; for a street car, occasionally autocrossed or tracked they'd be just fine but if you're trying to get the last bit out of you're Datsun then either get multi-adjustable or custom valved dampers.
  10. I will tell you for racing I run the car as soft as possible. Our cars have a very narrow track and this seems to be the way to build mechanical grip.......obviously our cars have no aero grip. A 510 is three inches narrower than a Miata and a Miata isn't exactly wide. Mike as for the price; a set of custom valved Ohlins for a 1200 run about $5000 and if that seem expensive my cousin has $8000 worth of Ohlins on his P2 sports racer.
  11. I could be wrong but I thought it said rebound only, they may well adjust both at the same time. Curreently I run non adjustable struts on the front and rebound only on the rears and it works pretty well. Zcar Depot was taking preorders. Regardless it's nice to have another choice.
  12. I stumbled on to a press release from last month that Koni is going to be producing Koni Sport yellows for Z cars including 280ZX. I thought this may be of interest since so many of us use 280ZX struts. They are supposed to be available in May. $150 per insert rebound adjustable only. 8610 race struts run $225 per so it's a pretty decent savings. Obviously you'll need to double check the length insert you need as dependent on how cut down your struts are it could be an issue.
  13. The KYBs from rockauto will work fine. I've actually used them on my race coupe. Better would be get a set of Koni inserts, Classic Garage has them for $120 each. Couple that with some Koni Classics for the rear $100 each, you'll have to take some measurements as the B210 specific ones aren't available anymore. Check Datsun1200.com as the site has shock measurements and possible substitutes listed. $450 for dampers is a lot for a stockish car but it's worth it. Good shocks/dampers are one of the best upgrades you can do for any car. Again the KYBs will work fine but I'd spring for the Koni dampers. Now as for your steering slop check the idler arm bushings these are the first things to wear out. Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth slowly, watch the idler arm in relation the the steering links. Obviously you can check the ball joints but I will tell you the ball joints have been on my race car for 25 years and they are still fine. On the 280ZX struts; they are popular for a reason. Being off a 3000lb car the components last forever. The only down side is the weight.
  14. I was outin the garage porting a cylinder head over the weekend so I'm just getting to this. First, while lowering the car will help the handling it's not always the best thing for daily use. When I had my B210 I had a set of Enkei wheels with 185/60-13s, some Koni dampers/shocks and a set of Addco sway bars. For the brakes I used Repco Metal Master pads on the front, can't remember what brakes shoes a I used. The car used 80hp A14. Overall the car was fun to drive. While I use the ubquitous 280ZX strut on my 1200 race car, they are rather heavy and for a low powered street car not really needed. Also note the 280ZX calipers due need to be milled to fit under a 13" wheel. Check Datsun1200.com it has good info on upgrading the brakes on the stock strut replacement.
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