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Tom1200

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About Tom1200

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Cars
    Datsun 1200 coupe
  • Interests
    Vintage racing, rally , vintage motocross, riding my Beta 520RS

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  1. Tom1200

    77 b210 off road build (Becky)

    Nothing wrong with playing with the A14 as long as your goal isn't extracting maximum power on a budget. You can get an extra 20hp for not a lot of money. Bolt on a weber DGAV, install a moderate cam, port the stock head and add 1.75" diameter exhaust. Shopping carefully and buying as many used parts as possible you should be able to do this for as little as $400. You can do the porting yourself with a Dremel. The key is doing the valve throat area, the valve seats protrude into the port so simply finding them done so they are flush with the port opens that area up by 2mm. You don't want to change the port shape just simply clean up the obstructions. if you want to spend more money you can buy a GX cylinder head $500-$700 complete, use a .6mm crush thickness head gasket $75 (eBay). You can bore the motor out to 78-79mm (see Datsun1200.com for the details) parts and matching will probably be around $400-$500. For carbs you can go with 40mm DCOE carbs, either single or double, I'm not sure on the price but anywhere from $600 used to $1000. I prefer motorcycle carbs but you will have to have a custom manifold made or make it yourself. You can by the carbs for as little as $150 but of course you could end up spending hundreds more on the manifold. Scrap the exhaust manifold for a header. So for $2500-$3000 you could get the motor up around 90-100whp with it still being street able. The A15 in my coupe is making 99whp and I spent $2500 on it. This is why many of the guys have told you to go with an engine swap. I've been racing a 1200 coupe for 30 years now so my choice would be work to get 20hp more out of it and if that isn't enough look at swapping in an L18 or KA24. Also you live in an state with a large number of been involved in racing in stage rally. A used set of rally tires would be way lighter then those off road meats and you could probably get them for $50 a tires is not less.
  2. Jack go to Rockauto, use a 1981 210 for the vehicle and order a Fel-Pro gasket for an A15. Should be Fel-Pro 21199. What at bore does your motor have? Standard is bore 76mm, the 21199 gasket bore is 77.50mm (I measured) While a BMC A-series is a great motor the Datsun a12/14/15 are indeed more robust being 5 main bearing motors. I have a bare A14/A15 block if you take a measurement from the deck to a fixed point on the block I may be able to compare it to mine and we can see if the block has a lot taken of the deck. The machine shop for my race motors lightly skims the deck and the pistons are never proud of the block.
  3. Tom1200

    Nissan a14 motor reaching 100kw

    Kurt go to peterzekertcom he is a former SCCA national champ / long time GT-lite competitor. He always has lots of stuff.
  4. Are you sure you have an A14 head gasket? The ring on the gasket should be a slightly larger diameter than the bore. The A12 gaskets are right on 76mm versus 77.5 thereabouts for the A14/15 gasket.
  5. Tom1200

    Nissan a14 motor reaching 100kw

    Kurt I haven't checked in about 18 months but the 60 series syncros where still available in the after market. I can't remember if it was Rivergate or somebody else that had them. Peter Zekert has GX heads in various states of tune between $500 and $2,500. The last one Imgot from him was professionally ported and came complete for $700.
  6. Tom1200

    Bike carbs

    I run just shy of 2 psi on my FCR Flatslide set up. Much more than that overwhelms the float needles.
  7. Tom1200

    R1 Carbs (lots of pics)

    One of the factors for going to bike carbs for me besides price was the fact that the FCR down draught carbs cleared the master cylinders. As a race car the lack of a vacuum advance wasn't an issue for me. I've been running bike carbs for 8 years now and find them much nicer than DCOE carbs.
  8. Tom1200

    Nissan a14 motor reaching 100kw

    K Appley I'm not sure what parts you are having problems obtaining but most parts are available though Rockauto or other similar companies. All of the gaskets are available, as well as starters, water pumps, alternators etc. I'm rebuilding an A15 and in the last six months I've ordered, head gasket, timing cover gasket, pan gasket, bearings, clutch disc and a water pump. I even ordered up a B210 ignition box to go with a spare B210 distributor I had lying around. The heads and blocks can be machined to fix and damage or wear that may occur. These motors are sturdy as all get out. I'm revving the the motors to between 8200-8800 using stock crank and rods. The only reason I'm not using stock pistons is because flat tops aren't available in the size I need to get the compression ratio up to 11.5-1. All of the bearings and syncros are available for the gearboxes are available as well. If you are concerned about the quality of non Nissan replacement parts I wouldn't be as all of the available parts I've bought are name brand (SKF, Felpro, Hastings). I'm a big fan of the using the Datsun A-series engine in Spridgets and the like for the reason you mentioned.
  9. Tom1200

    New rebuild concerns

    +1 on not replacing the lifters. My so called "back-up" race engine is pretty mildly tuned, it's an A12GX motor and the lifters are the ones that came with the motor, it's a JDM import motor we bought in 1994. It has something like 25 race weekends and probably 50 track days. The motor is routinely buzzed to 8200 rpm.
  10. Tom1200

    Big Cam????

    Looking at the cam card makes me think that cam has quite a bit of overlap, so I would expect it to behave exactly as you describe. I ran a similar type of cam in my A12 and when the cam card says 5-7K they mean it. Getting the car on my tilt trailer involved a bunch of clutch slipping. Addtioanlly while I had to go up (richer) on the main jet I actually had to go 3 steps leaner on the pilot jet to get the car where it would pull through the 3500-5000 rpm range at part throttle. My advice is go to a more street friendly cam, 5-9K is just crazy for a street car. You can't have the chugging along and then wham on the cam, then shift and chugga chugga chugga wham again. I run a cam that makes best power from 5-8K in my race car but it will still pull from 3000 rpm.
  11. Tom1200

    SR20DE which one is the 160hp version?

    One of the points behind potentially doing this is the ability to run pump gas and have parts readily available. If I did have a motor problem I don't want to be bothered with drilling oil passages and refitting various add ons. The A15 parts are available but my motor has a lot of specialty bits. I can't just order up cams and other common race parts as many of the items, like cam shafts, need to be sent out. Additionally the specialty parts can be pricey and I'm cheap, I don't wish to keep $1,000 worth of duplicate parts around just to make the occasional motor change go quicker. The A15 motor is great but even after refreshing the motor and a couple of minor revisions the motor isn't likely going to be more than 110 at the wheels. Last dyno reading was 99.8 on a mustang dyno. Trying to go beyond this power level cuts the maintenance intervals, full prepped A-series engines need going though after 6-8hrs of run time versus 5 seasons at the level I run them. Anything above 135 at the wheels will be great, the USDM SR20DE should easily do that. 150 at the wheels would go very well. Iceman not all carbs are created equal, the Keihin Flat Slides are very straight forward and not finicky in the least. I jet my car for the race events which are usually October - April. Most of the track days I run are in 90-100 degree weather, yes the car runs a bit rich and I'm loosing a few horsepower but at a track day who cares. Once I set the jetting I never changed it for the next 5 years, couple that with the matchbox distributor (set the timing and forget it) and my car runs as well as any fuel injected car. The advantage for me is regardless of how hard I tune the motor I can adjust the car. I have no experience tuning FI cars, I've fixed them but never messed around with tuning them. Not that I plan on scrapping the FI on the SR20.
  12. Tom1200

    "EBAY" worley aluminum radiator (yup one of those

    I'm getting ready to by one of these for my race coupe. I've been using a Sentra one but the issue is the airflow through the core support isn't great. The other thing is the good old plastic cooling 4 blade fan does a great job, it's light and always work. There really isn't a need for an electric fan. afracer, the reason why they do the 1200 radiators is that Sunny 1200s are way more popular to modify than the B210/120Y.
  13. Tom1200

    SR20DE which one is the 160hp version?

    Unfamilia while the VVL motor is the way to go there are fire wall clearance. Icehouse I'm assuming you used the fuel injection, were there any issues with the wiring? I've seen some guys do motor swaps that they are forever trying to sort the wiring.
  14. So my latest thing I'm looking at is a SR20DE. Does any one know what model was the 160hp version? Here is the background; the class I vintage race my 1200 allows the car to be prepped to 1999 or earlier specs for any recoqnized series. The Australian Improved Production Racing Association allows for SR20DE motors (before anyone suggests it turbo motors go into he next class up so forget the DET option) I also don't want to monkey fornicate around with adapting the VE motors to RWD......regardless of how cool I think the SR16VE 8600 buzz bomb is. Additiinally I've been offered up a SR20DET long block (less turbo); I'm assuming the turbo motor uses different pistons and camshafts but are there other differences between the DE and DET?
  15. Rosso mine are the fuax BBS look a like style; gold mesh center with bare alloy rim. I was was having clearance issue when I first fitted the H190 as its 3" wider than the standard 1200 H145. I tried the TRX style FWD when which resulted in the tires clearing the fenders but then the fins fouled the wheel. One could trim the fins, the 510 drums are so much bigger than the little 1200 brake drums that heat isn't a problem.
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