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  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Cars
    Datsun 1200 coupe, 87 Novakar Formula 500
  • Interests
    Vintage racing, rally , vintage motocross, riding my Beta 520RS

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  1. Tom1200

    A14 fun factor

    No, that's why I said for a street car. I'm still running the Kehein 39mm flat slide carbs.
  2. Tom1200

    A14 fun factor

    I've been racing a 1200 for last 32 years and I run a fairly mild set up. I give this advice every time this subject comes up. For a street A-series engine go with the following: a Weber 32/36 carb, header, Delta cams 278 grind, 2" exhaust, dual valve springs, GX head gasket and clean up the ports in the head. I port my heads using nothing more than a dremel. The valve seats protrude into the head and restrict the flow. Check Datsun1200.com for.pics of porting. All of that will get you 15-20hp more than stock. It won't be a rocket but it will rev like mad and be fun.
  3. 1200s are the lightest of the bunch imported to the USA. 1000s are slightly lighter be we never got them here. Datsun1200.com tech wiki has the weights. The A12 motor is a whopping 190lbs all up, the 4 speed weighs 28lbs, the complete rear axle with brakes is 96lbs. The hood weighs 20lbs and the trunk lid is all of 12lbs.
  4. Tom1200

    ca18de in b210

    Go to Datsun1200.com and look up CA18 swaps; you'll find lots of formation there.
  5. So as the resident A-series guy I'll chime in: For bolt on parts; Weber 32/36 DGV down draft carb, header and a larger diameter exhaust. This will net you about 8-10hp. If you score some deals on parts it may be possible to do this for $250-$300. For another $300-$400: reground cam Delta Cams 278 grind, dual valve springs (Iskederian still has them), thinner GX head gasket (raises compression) and clean up the ports (especially around the valve seat) I port my heads using a dremel. That will net you another 10-15hp. This naturally requires taking the motor apart so if you can't do this yourself then it's not cheap. So for $700 or so you can get maybe as much as 25hp more. Plan on 18-20. It doesn't sound like much but you will notice a big difference....... It will still be slow relative to modern cars but it will Rev like mad. The A15 in my 1200 race coupe makes 99hp at the wheels. I have a ported GX head, Delta Cam, Isky valve springs, 77mm bore, 11-1 compression, header w/2" exhaust and 39mm Keihin flat slide carbs. Other than the machine work I did everything myself. It cost me right on $2000 to put that motor together.
  6. I have found an off the shelf throttle cable for those of us using Keihin carbs. Motion Pro part number 04-0231 It requires an adapter to be made for the fire wall. You'll need a 25-28mm long adapted one end for 14mm 1.50 thread and the other end 14mm 1.25 thread. After that you need to use a dremel to shape the gas pedal slightly to accommodate the cable end on the Motion Pro cable. Prior to this I was having custom cables made.
  7. late to the party 30 degrees at what RPM? I run 38 degrees (per the competition manual) at 4000 rpm.
  8. I was hoping you would chime in. It is the little things; a proper valve job is worth 5-6hp on my A-series. Just cleaning up the ports added almost 10hp to an otherwise stock A12GX motor. Half a point of compression is worth 3hp. I'm probably giving up 3-5hp on my A15 by just slapping bearings in it and calling it a day rather than being anal about the clearances. Ironically with an SR20 in the car I would be in the same catchall class that I am with the A15 or L series engine. If all I did was clean up the ports and install a free flowing exhaust on a SR20 motor it'd likely be making 140-145hp at the wheels. Thanks for the input...……….sounds like I should just leave it with the A-series as the mildly tuned L16SSS is only going to be about a 10hp boost over my mid-level tuned A15.
  9. Carter keep in mind my "race engines" are about 60% of an actual race engine. I'm getting no less than 5 seasons out of an A-series motor. IF I ran an SR20, I'd run it bone stock.
  10. All I ever seem to find in SR20s is either FWD or turbos. A turbo motor puts me in with V8s
  11. Understood on the L20 but the fit starts to get really tight in a 1200. Realistically the head if it is truly the 219 SSS head is where the value is, if the motor is not a SSS I will be walking away from it. I don't even know what trans is in it yet so that's a consideration as well.
  12. I run with VARA; with the A12 I'm running in C-sedan, with the A15 I get thrown into VARA's GTL class. In GTL I can run up to a 2.0 motor as long as I meet the rule set for a recognized sanctioning body. The Australian IPRA rules allow for everything from SR20 to L series engine. The only reason I'm thinking about this is I can get the motor cheap...…….like $500 cheap. The L16 is also fairly light and at the level I'd run it would probably do OK on pump gas. Before anyone says put the money towards a newer motor note that I've switched to running my 87 Novakar Formula 500 at VARA so the 1200 will likely see more track day duty than actual vintage racing. I love the 1200 but from a speed point of view it's no comparison
  13. A friend found a rusty 4 door 510 with a L16T/ SSS motor (could be L18) and allegedly the guy just wants it gone. So my hair brained idea is to replace the A12 & A15 motors I've been running in my vintage race 1200 with the L16. Background: My A12 is making 78-80hp at the wheels & the the A15 makes 99hp at the wheels. On both motors I use GX head with the ports cleaned up and 39mm flat slide carbs. The A12 uses he stock GX cam and the A15 is using a Delta 278 cam .420 lift 278 duration. I rev both motors to 8100. Regardless of whether the motor is L16 or L18 I'd simply clean up the ports, add a mild cam and call it a day. There are a couple of issues with this plan: I run very low gearing, the stock A-series bottom end will rev to 8500rpms and I have no idea what sort of RPM the standard L series bottom end will tolerate. I'd need to rev the L series to around 7500. I'd want this motor to produce around 110hp at the wheels without having to do a huge amount of modifications beyond a cam & mild porting and this may not be very realistic. I could adapt a manifold to fit the flat slides from the A-series. Any and all thoughts welcome.
  14. The pumpkin on the H190 just misses the box section that runs across the back of the car at the shock mounting location. The center section/housing on the H190 is about 10.5" tall. So far I haven't seen any evidence that the housing is hitting the floor and I pound the kerbs mercilessly. On a different note I'd love to know what a complete F20C actually wieghs.
  15. I use a Nissan H190 and my car, being a race car, has been lowered (I think it's 3 inches). The H190 is smaller than the Ford 8.8 and I had to take out the axle/pinion snubber to get and sort of suspension travel (2.5" of bump). The snubber is spot welded onto the car at the end of the drive shaft tunnel. Keep in mind I have the radius/traction bars so I don't need the snubber. You'll need to measure; I raised the rear end up (I disconnected it from the springs) to see what bottomed first, in my case it was the snubber. Currently the axle housing comes within about 5-6mm of the floor when it hits the bump stops. A Ford housing is a good choice; while the H190 will fit but it's 3" wider than stock and can result in tire clearance issues (I uses a very short 20.6 Hoosier race tire to solve that) plus things like the LSD are expensive ($1300-$1500 used). You can buy the Ford stuff all day long for reasonable prices. The only down side to the Ford axle is weight. I think they are about 140lbs, where as the Datsun H190 with alloy diff it 98lbs (using the Z alloy drums)
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