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Tom1200

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About Tom1200

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Cars
    Datsun 1200 coupe
  • Interests
    Vintage racing, rally , vintage motocross, riding my Beta 520RS

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  1. The throw out bearing is lightly pressed onto the carrier. The output seal can be pulled out with a seal puller or if you hard pressed a flat blade screw driver. It taps back in, I use a wooden block, pub the seal generously and give it some gentle taps and it goes back in. Just make sure it goes in straight. I always order 2 when I get new ones.
  2. Grab the news ones, sadly I still haven't been through by boxes of stuff as life has been in the way for several days.
  3. This is a stupid cheap price for that even if the motor were blown. I too gave thought to running a U20 in my car but as mentioned parts are expensive. If that were closer to me I'd buy it and run it till it went south. For a street car it'd likely be horrible, no power below 5000 rpm, very rough idle and likely would last more than a few months. For your car you could put a stock L16-L20 in it as they are nearly a bolt in and see an increase of 15-20 horsepower before you do anything to them. Depending on smog laws in your state there is an easy 10hp to be had out of the A15 for not a lot of money. You can also get 15-20hp by changing the cam, cleaning up the ports, adding a weber 32/36 carb and a header. You could also add motorcycle carbs and get another 8-10hp beyond that (the bike carbs require a custom intake manifold). 90HP at the wheels is possible in street trim. You might be able to do this for as little as $600 if you bide your time shopping for parts and as much as $1500 if not. You can also take the A-series out to 1600cc using Mazda pistons. End of the day the time and effort would likely be spent on getting the KA in there. The only bennifit to the A-series is you won't need to do all of the drive train upgrades the KA needs.
  4. Mine has about 18" worth of fuel line between the pump and the fuel cell, the pump is also mounted slightly above the top of the cell. Also note it's a cheap parts store pump, I have no issues whatsoever. Granted my motor isn't making 500hp either.
  5. I may have extra flywheel bolts; I've got to check because the A12 uses different bolts than the A14/15 and I'm not sure I've got extra sets of both. Also what motor is in the car? I can't remember if the A12A uses the same thread as the A12 or,the A14/15.
  6. Projects do tend to fight the entire way.
  7. FYI there is a thread on 1200.com about doing budget EFI turbo set up.
  8. So, what would you want for that 63-series 5-speed box anyway?

    Sure, I can make my own adapters and such, but I have enough to do and there is something to be said for something that just works.

  9. Per Datsun1200.com the E15/16 is 22lbs lighter than the A-series, the A14/15 is 12lbs heavier than the A12 so even if the E15 is 22lbs lighter than the A14 it would still be 10lbs lighter than an A12. The fact that you have a auto in the car is a bonus as it has a large tranny tunnel and given the fact you can machine up your own adapter plate for a transmission you have a lot of options. Here is a link to various 1200 component weights. http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=70067&forum=1&post_id=490878 I would venture guess that the CR12 is pretty close to the A12 weight wise (maybe one of the Micra/March forums knows the exact weight), the aluminum block offsetting the extra weight of the DOHC head. My 1171cc A12 with FCR carbs, GX head, cam and ports cleaned up made 73whp, while rather underwhelming it is 33 more than the are in stock trim. Getting another 20hp out of the motor isn't that difficult. I have a 63 series 5 speed I might let go of but that depends on what you consider cheap. I also have some Yamaha FZR1000 carbs that you could have for the price of shipping them to you. Honestly if you can do your own adapter plate I'd find a Miata 5 speed for $150 and make an adapter. As for weight replacing the standard battery with a Group 51 battery from a Civic or a Miata battery will save 12lbs. A LiFoPo battery will take 25lbs off. The stock 20lb flywheel (manual car) can be lightened to 14lbs (I also have an A14/15 14lb flywheel) so there is potentially 30lbs right there. I also thing going to a manual transmission would take at least 50-60lbs out of the car. The 71 series Jatco trans is reeeeally heavy, the tech section on 1200.com says it weighs 70KG more than the 1200 trans which would make it something like 190lbs but I don't know how accurate that figure is. The one big advantage of the A-series is Nissan used it for 35 years (all the way until 2010) worldwide so basic parts availability is good. In theory you can shave 75-100lbs out of your car and add 20hp just by bolting on standard components. I will admit I like the idea of doing something different than everyone else but it comes down to the amount of time one spends just to be different. In my case I can't machine parts and even if I could I'd rather pay for the parts and spend more time driving. As a machinist I suspect making and fitting the parts is a large part of why you play with cars.
  10. As the subject motor in this topic was light weight motor I should have mentioned the E series engines from the early 80s that are found in Pulsars and Sentras. The E15 is 22lbs lighter than the A-series. The E15 or E16 will bolt to the A-series bell housing, the E flywheel would need to have an A ring gear installed. Additionally the distributor on the E15 is sticking out the back of the cylinder head so the motor would need to run EDIS/crank trigger ignition. The down side of the E15 is in North American trim it makes less power than the A14/15. There is the E15ET turbo motor from turbo that made 113hp that can easily make more with little effort. The naturally aspirated motors can be upgrade easily as well with the usual side draft carbs, header cam etc. I happen to know of a racer who is looking to sell of all of his E-series engines and parts (His car now uses a motorcycle engine). I haven't made an offer yet as I'm not sure which direction I'm going with my car long term. For the street the motors would likely need D-tuning as compression is 12-1 and the camshaft grind is pretty roarty. The motors also use crank fire ignitions as well as dry sump, one might want to change the sump back to wet sump. I've also got a couple of A15s in need of rebuilding that are free to anyone who wants them.
  11. As weighed on a bathroom scale the A12 block (with main caps) is 70lbs. I've been doing a lot of research on weights as of late; If someone online has a picture of said assemble hanging from or sitting on a scale then I consider the weight as reliable. One of the things that surprised me is how little the difference actually is in weight between a 5.0 ford with aluminum heads and turbo twin cam fours. In some cases it's as little as 20lbs, then when you factor in the gearbox weight the turbo motor and tranny combo weigh more than the V8 tranny combo. People do indeed forget about the drivability of a motor and get hung up on peak power. On the carbs versus FI front; injection doesn't work any better than properly set up carbs but the difference is it works more often. I also race a F500 single seater; in the two stroke powered cars people routinely make jetting changes between sessions but if you have a significant change during a race (wind, temp, humidity) you're stuck. For the street there are significant weather changes day to day that will affect the car, it may drive fine but it certainty won't be at peak operating efficiency. I've jetted my car for cooler months of the year (I only race from the fall through late spring) I don't change the jetting for the track days I do in May and September because A. the FCR cabs are very tolerant of changes and b. I'm lazy and c. I don't care that I may not getting the max out of the motor at a track day. The A12 engine and gearbox combo is going to be the lightest thing you're likely to find, even the 1000cc bike motors weigh more, the main issue is power. My A15 made 99whp and it would be street-able. The current A12 is around 80whp (haven't dynoed it yet). The stock A12 is around 40whp so yes it's slow. there is also the issue if you need to rev them (even in stock trim) to get the power out of them. Putting in a 2.0 - 2.4 liter truck motor offers up a nice flat torque curve and that's hard to argue with, the extra weight in an already light car isn't likely to be an issue for 99% of the people driving it.
  12. pdp8, note I'm not poo-pooing the idea but here are some things to think about. What people forget is that the aluminum blocks need to be thicker than cast iron to give similar strength so they aren't as light as one would think. Twin cam motors are by their very design heavier; you need all of the supporting structure for the camshafts, the extra weight of the additional camshaft itself plus the additional 8 valves. The A-series complete head is something ridiculous like 15lbs complete versus a typical twin cam motor at 40lbs. The complete motor in my race car is 185lbs (this is complete including clutch, flywheel and starter) the A series box weighs 38lbs. Combined that's 15lbs lighter than a Hayabusa motor. 1600-2000cc twin cam motors vary between 290lbs and 350lbs, additionally most of the transmissions for these motors weigh 80-100lbs. There is nothing wrong with wanting to bolt in a modern motor but you have to look at all the factors. CR12DEs being FWD may not have an easy way to bolt up a RWD transmission. While CR12 makes 12 more horsepower than the A12 it makes the same horsepower as an A14/15. For the cost of the CR motor you could source an A14 or A15, clean up the ports in the head, install a new exhaust system, mild cam, weber 32/36 carb and thus increase the A series motor output by about 15-20hp. Couple that with a lower rear gear (3.9 to 4.11 ring and pinion) and a 5 speed transmission (5th gear overdrive) and that would make it much nicer to drive. Note there are fuel injection set ups for A-series engines (standard Nissan as well as fabricated ones detailed on 1200.com) The standard Nissan fuel injection for the A-series tends to be pricey for what it is. The most common modern-ish swaps for 1200s are CA18 and SR20. The L series is an easy swap and given the fact no one wants an L16 you could probably get one stupid cheap. The L16 would make more power stock than either an A14/15 or CR12. If you don't care about keeping it Nissan I'd snag a Miata 1.6 as those have tons of support as well as a sweet gearbox, plus it's one of the lighter packages when it comes to twin cam engines. Now with all that said if you want to install the CR12 motor just to be different than I say go for it.
  13. Mike the "S" in R4-S denotes it's a street pad, a lot of the vintage racers use them because they're kinder to stock rotors, as mentioned they work well cold but will still stand up to track duty. I've been using craptisical brand from Rockauto but am switching over to the R4S pads & shoes; my 1622lb car doesn't tax the ZX calipers or the Z car alloy drums , even with my routinely having the brake and the gas on at the same time. I did have concerns that even with the aforementioned aggressive use that I wouldn't get true race pads fully up to temp. I'm looking for a little more initial bite than the pure street pads can't offer. As an aside back in the mid 90's I was racing a showroom stock Miata and using it as a daily driver. When I got the car it had Hawk race pads on it, they worked fine on the street (no worse than stock cold) but the rear rotors wore out at the same rate as the pads! The fronts faired slightly better (1/2 - 2/3rds worn) so pad changes meant buying 4 rotors and pads.
  14. It's probably been maladjusted for some time but the installation of a new clutch disc, which was just thick enough, used up the last bit of play. I have not touched the pedal stop in years.
  15. Potterfield makes a more aggressive street pad for 280ZX calipers, that will help the performance a bit as well. Next if you go to larger calipers on the front what are you going to do about the rear brakes, you will in essence have massive fronts and tiny rear brakes. Potterfield has 510 brakes shoes in the same compound as the 280ZX pad I mentioned above. With the 280ZX calipers in front and 510 drums you likely have a mismatch already. Note you can use the larger wheel cylinders from the 240Z (7/8 vs 510 13/16), which will change the balance back to what it would have been stock. With all that said Wilwood calipers are pretty reasonable (around $130-150 each for 2 piston) but you will need to make an adapter plate to fit them. You'll need to address the rear brakes with the Wilwoods as well. If you're fitting rear discs to the car as part of the SR20 conversion then it's not an issue. If this is a strictly street car we're talking about, I'd upgrade the pads and shoes and if that isn't enough for the SR20 powered car go to Wilwoods. The 4x4 calipers are boat anchors; the milled to fit 13" ZX calipers are 7lbs each, the Wilwoods are 5lbs and the 4X4 are something crazy like 12lbs each.
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