Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

124 Better

About Tom1200

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Cars
    Datsun 1200 coupe, 87 Novakar Formula 500
  • Interests
    Vintage racing, rally , vintage motocross, riding my Beta 520RS

Recent Profile Visitors

5,023 profile views
  1. The H190 is 3" wider as well. I originally tried FWD wheel but they fouled the fins on the alloy drums...……...with discs you should have no problem.
  2. The toughest part of this is 1200s are so narrow. I bought a 1200 parts car (race car project) for $1000 as it came with a car H190, then I paid $1300 for an alloy center with LSD. I tool what I needed and sold off what I didn't for just over $1300. So I only paid $1000 to get the set up in my car, with the alloy drums (Z-car) and alloy housing it only weighs 4lbs more than the standard 1200 H145. The real issue is tire clearance, fortunately I run a Hoosier race tire which is only 20.7" tall. If it weren't a race car the widest tire I could run would be a 175, anything wider would require cutting, flaring and rewelding the rear fenders. I researched endlessly and never found anything that was both cheap and fit. In the end I just bit the bullet.
  3. You should be able to get a small mirror up inside the tunnel and read the number on the side of the transmission. It should be a 63 series gearbox.
  4. Steve here's a thought; for a drive shaft parking brake use something off a mountain bike, some of these use cable operated discs. You could use the caliper and make up a very small diameter disc. It would be near useless as a "emergency" brake but it would hold the car. The only other thing I can think of is some type of contracting band that grabs the outside of the drive shaft itself.
  5. You will likely have to get a clutch kit, $50-$75 on Rockauto, I assume NAPA is similar. I use the stock parts in the 1200 I race; even with the A15 that makes 99hp at the wheels and I never had clutch issues (other than when I mal-adjusted the MC push rod.....doh!)
  6. If you think you're going to eventually do a motor swap here is what I would do; send the cam out to Delta to be reground, clean up the ports, install the aforementioned SI valves and fit a weber 32/36 DGV carb or whatever carb you find cheap. All of that should add 15-20hp which will make the car feel like a rocket..............at least for an hour or so. 20hp may not seem like much but when I went from the 80whp A12 to the 99whp A15 the trap speed on the car went from 98 mph to 111 mph. I keep thinking I want to do a motor swap in my car, especially now that I have a single seat race car again but I've really grown fond of the rev happy A-series. The biggest issue with motor swap is the weIght; especially the turbo motors as an SR20DET is only about 20lbs lighter than a V8. The the joy of these cas is there's no wrong answer; keep the A14, fit an SR20 or V8 or RB25 it's all good.
  7. I use Redline MT-90 GL4; it is a synthetic. For the longest time I used Sta-lube in my 1200 that I race. The only reason I'm using Redline is the place I go to has it in stock. I wouldn't be to worried about the 85w...…..once upon a time I used straight 90W, it was like pumping syrup into the trans. As long as you don't flog the car from dead cold I wouldn't expect any issues. You are correct to be hesitant to use GL4/5; I did that once and the next time I drained the fluid it had a lovely metal flake brass sheen to it. Clearly it was not yellow metal safe. I think I ran one race weekend with it (could have been two). If you can't get Redline just run the Sta-Lube; it's perfectly fine for your use.
  8. Yes I was using the Delta 278 in an A15; from memory it's .420 valve lift and 278 duration. You'll need dual valve springs but those are still available from Isky for around $125 or so. Out of curiosity what valves are you using to get 40/33; if the valve seats need to be replaced then you might as well put larger valves in but if the seats are fine I'd be inclined to simply replace the 37/30 valves with the tapered stem type you can get from SI valves.
  9. The H89 head would make more power but at a higher RPM. If you're street driving the car and trying to keep a usable power band I doubt you could live on the difference.
  10. What gearbox is in the car now? What's in the car should be a 63 series box, which uses a larger driveshaft yoke than the 60 series gearbox. The 60 series uses the same yoke has the 56 series driveshaft. As for the crossmember they are not to different and it's easy enough to fabricate an adapter out of plate steel (can be done with a hacksaw and drill) I did this in the 1200 I race. If you are just looking for a 5 speed one of the guys on Datsun1200.com has 63 series 5 speed. He is in Texas so not to far away. I have one as well but I'm not sure I wish to part with it and I'm in Vegas so shipping may be pricey. Any A-series cylinder head will bolt to any A series engine. What you have to be mindful of is bolting a late head on an early block. The A14 is considered a late block, the head you have should be a late head as well but double check Datsun1200.com under head compatibility.
  11. I've got ye ole cherry bomb on mine and it sounds great but if I were driving it on the street I doubt I'd think so. I like the sound of a resonator and Ansa muffler on street cars.
  12. Ok late to the party but as one of the few guys on here racing an A-serIes powered car I will chime in. First, I too am a fan of bike carbs. I was lucky enough to score a set of flat slide carbs and custom manifolds about 10 years ago. Mine are non CV which do not have the restriction of the throttle plate like CV carbs do. CV carbs are still perfectly fine they just flow less. The bike carbs like R1 or Keihin flat slides like I use are essentially downdraft (45 degree angle) and so they clear the brake master cylinders. The classics dual DCOE style require the master cylinders to be moved. As as for cylinder heads; the A15 motor commonly used shrouded ports. Datsun1200.com has pictures that show the obstruction. No one has tried hogging out the port for fear of hitting a water jacket. The heads you want are either the H89 or the GX head. GX heads are pricey. A race ported one one will set you back as much as $2000, I paid $600 for an umodified GX head several months ago and then put about 20 hours in the head. As for porting the biggest gain is in the valve seat valve bowl area; the seats are narrow then the port and protrude into the port by near 2mm. Cutting back this step with a dremel and then taking material from around the valve guid to open up the port will net the most gains. Then of course match the manifold gasket to the head and manifold. You can go few ways here: A. Install a weber DGEV 32/36, port whatever head you have, use a Delta 278 cam (moderate street cam), Isky valve springs, header and 2" exhaust. This will net you around 12-15 horsepower. B. Get an H89 or GX head port it and fabricate a manifold for bike carbs, use SI tapered stem valves , Delta 278 cam and 2" exhaust. This will net you 25-30 horsepower. C. Add a set of flat top pistons to B. and you get 99hp at th wheels (this is the set up in my car) D. Use .30 over Mazda Miata pistons which will take the motor out to 1600cc. You will have mill 2mm of the top of the Miata pistons and have the small end of the connecting rods from 19mm to 20mm. This will necessitate the use of premium as well as being consecutive on the timing becuase the motor will now be at 12-1 compression. This will get the car up to 112-115hp at the weeks but you'll now have ventured into the less street friendly zone. E. Order 77mm pistons from SW Motorsports in Australia ($170 US including rings) these have an 8cc dish and keep the compression to 9.5-1 with a standard head gasket and 10-1 with the .6 race gasket. With all that said cost wise I'd go with A. as for the cost of building up an A-series you could swap over to a L20 or KA24.
  13. 1200 Utes are still a unibody/monoqueue same as a coupe & sedan. Along with the other guys it looks to me like you are probably hitting the bumps stops with as low as the car sits. When I first raced my coupe, we used lower blocks and I ended up cutting the bump stops quite a bit. Stock 1200 springs come with material in between the leaves to cut down on stiction but even if they are totally gone they are not going to cause severe harshness. They will contribute to it but it's not a pogo stick to Cadillac difference. Part of the issue with radically lowering the car is the damper/shocks are not operating in their optimum range. Here is what I would do: 1. Put a big smear of grease on the bump stop and see if it's hitting the axle in normal driving. If it is cut the stop until it stops hitting. 2. If the bump stop isn't hitting the axle tube put a 150lb load in the bed and see if the ride improves (you need to check the bumps stops aren't hitting after adding the load). If the ride does improve then take the small leaf out of the spring pack (see datsun1200.com and look for the race suspension manual it talks about this) 3. Go to the aforementioned suspension manual and see the modification for lower/extending the shock mount stud in the mounting plate. This will get the shocks in the proper range of travel. 4. If all else fails just raise it back up. If you currently have the rear lower than the front, get it back to the standard rake (read front and rear near level)
  14. One thing to add. The brake balance is going to be off after installing the ZX strut/caliper. Probably not an issue for most street cars but it's going to put more front bias into the system. You can restore some of the balance by using larger wheel cylinders on the rear brakes. I run a H190 on my car so it's better than the original rear drums but I am going to the 240Z wheels cylinders as I prefer more rear bias on the race car.
  15. So in 2014 I had an A12 in my car that had been in the car for something like 60 race weekends. The last 3 laps of it's last race motor dropped 100 rpm ever lap. When I got it home it had 80psi across the board. While the valves weren't bad the rings were shot and the bores weren't great. If it were a street car I'd have slapped some rings in it (possibly some bearings) and called it a day. A basic leak down test will give you an idea of what's going on. You can do a basic hillbilly rebuild (as noted above) or do a basic rebuild. You could probably get a piston set from Rockauto for around $125 and your local machine shop likely charges $150-$175 range to bore the block. Add in the cost of bearings, gaskets and possibly a valve job and you may be all in for $600. I'm of the same mindset as Stoffregen; take it apart inspect it, replace what needs replacing and leave the rest.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.