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Tom1200

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About Tom1200

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Cars
    Datsun 1200 coupe
  • Interests
    Vintage racing, rally , vintage motocross, riding my Beta 520RS
  1. Tom1200

    Big Cam????

    Looking at the cam card makes me think that cam has quite a bit of overlap, so I would expect it to behave exactly as you describe. I ran a similar type of cam in my A12 and when the cam card says 5-7K they mean it. Getting the car on my tilt trailer involved a bunch of clutch slipping. Addtioanlly while I had to go up (richer) on the main jet I actually had to go 3 steps leaner on the pilot jet to get the car where it would pull through the 3500-5000 rpm range at part throttle. My advice is go to a more street friendly cam, 5-9K is just crazy for a street car. You can't have the chugging along and then wham on the cam, then shift and chugga chugga chugga wham again. I run a cam that makes best power from 5-8K in my race car but it will still pull from 3000 rpm.
  2. Tom1200

    SR20DE which one is the 160hp version?

    One of the points behind potentially doing this is the ability to run pump gas and have parts readily available. If I did have a motor problem I don't want to be bothered with drilling oil passages and refitting various add ons. The A15 parts are available but my motor has a lot of specialty bits. I can't just order up cams and other common race parts as many of the items, like cam shafts, need to be sent out. Additionally the specialty parts can be pricey and I'm cheap, I don't wish to keep $1,000 worth of duplicate parts around just to make the occasional motor change go quicker. The A15 motor is great but even after refreshing the motor and a couple of minor revisions the motor isn't likely going to be more than 110 at the wheels. Last dyno reading was 99.8 on a mustang dyno. Trying to go beyond this power level cuts the maintenance intervals, full prepped A-series engines need going though after 6-8hrs of run time versus 5 seasons at the level I run them. Anything above 135 at the wheels will be great, the USDM SR20DE should easily do that. 150 at the wheels would go very well. Iceman not all carbs are created equal, the Keihin Flat Slides are very straight forward and not finicky in the least. I jet my car for the race events which are usually October - April. Most of the track days I run are in 90-100 degree weather, yes the car runs a bit rich and I'm loosing a few horsepower but at a track day who cares. Once I set the jetting I never changed it for the next 5 years, couple that with the matchbox distributor (set the timing and forget it) and my car runs as well as any fuel injected car. The advantage for me is regardless of how hard I tune the motor I can adjust the car. I have no experience tuning FI cars, I've fixed them but never messed around with tuning them. Not that I plan on scrapping the FI on the SR20.
  3. Tom1200

    "EBAY" worley aluminum radiator (yup one of those

    I'm getting ready to by one of these for my race coupe. I've been using a Sentra one but the issue is the airflow through the core support isn't great. The other thing is the good old plastic cooling 4 blade fan does a great job, it's light and always work. There really isn't a need for an electric fan. afracer, the reason why they do the 1200 radiators is that Sunny 1200s are way more popular to modify than the B210/120Y.
  4. Tom1200

    SR20DE which one is the 160hp version?

    Unfamilia while the VVL motor is the way to go there are fire wall clearance. Icehouse I'm assuming you used the fuel injection, were there any issues with the wiring? I've seen some guys do motor swaps that they are forever trying to sort the wiring.
  5. So my latest thing I'm looking at is a SR20DE. Does any one know what model was the 160hp version? Here is the background; the class I vintage race my 1200 allows the car to be prepped to 1999 or earlier specs for any recoqnized series. The Australian Improved Production Racing Association allows for SR20DE motors (before anyone suggests it turbo motors go into he next class up so forget the DET option) I also don't want to monkey fornicate around with adapting the VE motors to RWD......regardless of how cool I think the SR16VE 8600 buzz bomb is. Additiinally I've been offered up a SR20DET long block (less turbo); I'm assuming the turbo motor uses different pistons and camshafts but are there other differences between the DE and DET?
  6. Rosso mine are the fuax BBS look a like style; gold mesh center with bare alloy rim. I was was having clearance issue when I first fitted the H190 as its 3" wider than the standard 1200 H145. I tried the TRX style FWD when which resulted in the tires clearing the fenders but then the fins fouled the wheel. One could trim the fins, the 510 drums are so much bigger than the little 1200 brake drums that heat isn't a problem.
  7. I'm using a H190 out of a 510 wagon with Z alloy drums on my 1200 race coupe. When I got the set up someone had mixed up the shoes, it took me a little bit to figure out the leading shoe is the rear most one. Additionally the drums didn't quite clear the backing plates, the self clearances in about half a lap. In case anyone reads this thread while searching an issue, note FWD offset 13" wheels won't quite clear the cooling fins on the drums. The offset is to much by about 15mm. My Shelby wheels and Chevoit style have no issues. The Poterfield R4-S shoes are $79 and you can order them direct.
  8. Tom1200

    A14 Nissan 1.4

    I should have mentioned this earlier, if you have the cam timing out by even one tooth the motor will barely run............ask me how I know. So let's back up a bit: First define hot, what kind of temps are talking about? Second how long before it gets hot? Third once it cools of it restarts just fine? Finally, per chance have you checked the coil as well as the valve clearances? A-series have to get smoking hot before they die and once the do they've usually melted the head gasket or the head itself. The A15 in my race car hit 275 F before it died. I probably did 10 laps (30+ miles) at over 225 F, plus at least one lap at 240-250F
  9. Tom1200

    A14 Nissan 1.4

    There has to be some sort of dowel pin, if the bolt and washer are still on the cam the dowel may be hard to spot. You have to look carefully in the crevice between the washer and sprocket surface............look careful it's there. If you actually the cam bolt and sprocket off and there is no dowel all I can say is I've never seen one without the dowel and hole in the sprocket.
  10. Tom1200

    A14 Nissan 1.4

    As one of the A-series guys I can answer this: You'll find a diagram on Datsun1200.com but here is what you need to know. With the number one cylinder at TDC the key way on the crank sprocket should be point at an angle approximately 4 o'clock. The dowel hole on the camshaft sprocket should be in line with the key way pointing down at 4 o'clock. At the same time the dot on the crank sprocket should be at 3 o'clock and the shiny chain link lined up with said dot, the dot on the camshaft sprocket should be at approximately 1 o'clock with the shiny link lining up with that dot. Also on Datsun1200.com you'll find the spec for how much slack is allowed in the chain and how to measure it.
  11. Tom1200

    Strut insert and Rear shock guide!!!

    Datsun1200.com has a whole list of strut inserts that will work for you.
  12. Tom1200

    Nissan a14 motor reaching 100kw

    So here are some options to get the compression up. Custom pistons; this is what I did. $600 for forged JE pistons with rings. The standard A15 pistons come in a 6cc and 10cc dish and the head gaskets standard have a 1.2mm crush thickness. You can get a GX head gasket with a .8 crush thickness and a Nismo one with .6 crush thickness. Both available on EBay. Bprojects is on EBay (there a Japanese company that specializes in A-series stuff for Sunny models) You could get 6cc dish pistons and the thinnest gasket, I believe that will take you to 10-1 compression or close to it. Honda pistons come in 76mm with flat tops / near flat tops; I can't remember if it's the D15 or B16 but you can look it up on the Internet. They Honda piston uses the same 19mm pin as the Datsun. You can use Mazda MX-5 / Miata 78mm pistons, the small end of the rods will need to bore to 20mm and the piston tops milled flat. The issue with this solution is the compression ratio may be rather high for a street car. I don't know what head you're using, they vary from 29cc to 32cc combustion chambers and you would need to use one of those online compression ratio calculators. DO NOT, DO NOT mill the head to get the compression up; this causes all sorts of issues with push rod lengths and rocker arm geometry. One of my cylinder heads has had 2mm milled off it and due to that I've had to fly cut deep notches into the forged pistons as well as make shims for the rocker shaft pedestals, as well as mill some of the pedestals. I have to mix and match the modified parts to get everything correct when every I fit different cams. It was a pain to sort, luckily I have a machinist friend who's able to make these little custom bits. It's one thing to do it for a race car but quite another for a street car.
  13. Tom1200

    Nissan a14 motor reaching 100kw

    Pierre you will not be able to use the A14 pistons with the A15 crank because the pistons will be sticking up 2.5mm above the deck. Not the previously mentioned piston pin heights, due to the 5mm longer stroke of the A15 Nissan decreased the piston pin height 2.5mm. You can mill the A14 piston down of course but that would likely lead to piston failure.
  14. Tom1200

    Nissan a14 motor reaching 100kw

    The A15 and A14 use the same block with a deck height of 204.1mm, the A14 uses a 77mm stroke with a piston pin height of 32.5mm and the A15 uses a 82mm stroke with a 30mm pin height. They both use a 76mm bore. As to the original question first I will share this; my so called race motor makes 99hp at the wheels. It uses a ported GX head with 39mm flatslide carbs, 278 cam, headers with 2 inch exhaust and 11.90-1 compression. It's streetable but uses 100 octane fuel. While the motor will run at any RPM it's happiest above 4500rpm and doesn't really make power until 5500 rpm. Realistically 110hp at wheels is probably the turning point. A b140 makes all of 80hp at the crank stock (55-60 at the wheels?) so getting one up to 85-90 at the wheels is a huge improvement.
  15. Tom1200

    280zx front coil over caliper facing front or back?

    Krafor, the spacers can be used regardless of ride height. You can measure the ride height and then reset it after installing the spacers. While you indeed swap the struts side to side, the brake lines on your car now may not be the correct length and or have routing issues. Dependent on what size wheels you have you could also run into clearance problems Swapping the struts from one side to the other seems like a lot of work just to avoid using spacers. I do one of two things to fix it. A. Use the spacers even if I didn't like the look of them. B. Just change the pads more often. If you're only having to change them once a year or ever other year it's not a big deal. I'm cheap and lazy so I'd go with option A. Note there is no wrong answer if at the end of the day you're happy with it.
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