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About Tom1200

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Cars
    Datsun 1200 coupe, 87 Novakar Formula 500
  • Interests
    Vintage racing, rally , vintage motocross, riding my Beta 520RS

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  1. The pumpkin on the H190 just misses the box section that runs across the back of the car at the shock mounting location. The center section/housing on the H190 is about 10.5" tall. So far I haven't seen any evidence that the housing is hitting the floor and I pound the kerbs mercilessly. On a different note I'd love to know what a complete F20C actually wieghs.
  2. I use a Nissan H190 and my car, being a race car, has been lowered (I think it's 3 inches). The H190 is smaller than the Ford 8.8 and I had to take out the axle/pinion snubber to get and sort of suspension travel (2.5" of bump). The snubber is spot welded onto the car at the end of the drive shaft tunnel. Keep in mind I have the radius/traction bars so I don't need the snubber. You'll need to measure; I raised the rear end up (I disconnected it from the springs) to see what bottomed first, in my case it was the snubber. Currently the axle housing comes within about 5-6mm of the floor when it hits the bump stops. A Ford housing is a good choice; while the H190 will fit but it's 3" wider than stock and can result in tire clearance issues (I uses a very short 20.6 Hoosier race tire to solve that) plus things like the LSD are expensive ($1300-$1500 used). You can buy the Ford stuff all day long for reasonable prices. The only down side to the Ford axle is weight. I think they are about 140lbs, where as the Datsun H190 with alloy diff it 98lbs (using the Z alloy drums)
  3. Tom1200

    H190 Swap

    Very cool.
  4. Tom1200

    Flat cam lobe?

    If the adjustor screw is higher (more thread sticking up above the adjuster locknut) then when the lifter bottoms out on the cam lobe the 2mm gap may be enough to let the push rod fall out. If the rocker arm is stiff on the shaft, either the shaft or the rocker is galled. As for number 4 rocker, have you checked the rocker to see if it's bent? Compare it to the other rockers. If it's a cam lobe typically it won't have as much lift. I've never heard of it but it's physically possible a lifter is so worn it drops lower but you would expect to the lash adjust srew to be turned really far down into the rocker.
  5. If the coilovers are like the 280ZX set up on my 1200 you can undo the center nut at the top of the strut rod and the whole assembly will slide out of the camber plate. You will have to undo the two bolts that hold the strut onto the computer control arm as well as the slider pin bolts for the brake caliper.
  6. The H190 is 3" wider as well. I originally tried FWD wheel but they fouled the fins on the alloy drums...……...with discs you should have no problem.
  7. The toughest part of this is 1200s are so narrow. I bought a 1200 parts car (race car project) for $1000 as it came with a car H190, then I paid $1300 for an alloy center with LSD. I tool what I needed and sold off what I didn't for just over $1300. So I only paid $1000 to get the set up in my car, with the alloy drums (Z-car) and alloy housing it only weighs 4lbs more than the standard 1200 H145. The real issue is tire clearance, fortunately I run a Hoosier race tire which is only 20.7" tall. If it weren't a race car the widest tire I could run would be a 175, anything wider would require cutting, flaring and rewelding the rear fenders. I researched endlessly and never found anything that was both cheap and fit. In the end I just bit the bullet.
  8. You should be able to get a small mirror up inside the tunnel and read the number on the side of the transmission. It should be a 63 series gearbox.
  9. Steve here's a thought; for a drive shaft parking brake use something off a mountain bike, some of these use cable operated discs. You could use the caliper and make up a very small diameter disc. It would be near useless as a "emergency" brake but it would hold the car. The only other thing I can think of is some type of contracting band that grabs the outside of the drive shaft itself.
  10. You will likely have to get a clutch kit, $50-$75 on Rockauto, I assume NAPA is similar. I use the stock parts in the 1200 I race; even with the A15 that makes 99hp at the wheels and I never had clutch issues (other than when I mal-adjusted the MC push rod.....doh!)
  11. If you think you're going to eventually do a motor swap here is what I would do; send the cam out to Delta to be reground, clean up the ports, install the aforementioned SI valves and fit a weber 32/36 DGV carb or whatever carb you find cheap. All of that should add 15-20hp which will make the car feel like a rocket..............at least for an hour or so. 20hp may not seem like much but when I went from the 80whp A12 to the 99whp A15 the trap speed on the car went from 98 mph to 111 mph. I keep thinking I want to do a motor swap in my car, especially now that I have a single seat race car again but I've really grown fond of the rev happy A-series. The biggest issue with motor swap is the weIght; especially the turbo motors as an SR20DET is only about 20lbs lighter than a V8. The the joy of these cas is there's no wrong answer; keep the A14, fit an SR20 or V8 or RB25 it's all good.
  12. I use Redline MT-90 GL4; it is a synthetic. For the longest time I used Sta-lube in my 1200 that I race. The only reason I'm using Redline is the place I go to has it in stock. I wouldn't be to worried about the 85w...…..once upon a time I used straight 90W, it was like pumping syrup into the trans. As long as you don't flog the car from dead cold I wouldn't expect any issues. You are correct to be hesitant to use GL4/5; I did that once and the next time I drained the fluid it had a lovely metal flake brass sheen to it. Clearly it was not yellow metal safe. I think I ran one race weekend with it (could have been two). If you can't get Redline just run the Sta-Lube; it's perfectly fine for your use.
  13. Yes I was using the Delta 278 in an A15; from memory it's .420 valve lift and 278 duration. You'll need dual valve springs but those are still available from Isky for around $125 or so. Out of curiosity what valves are you using to get 40/33; if the valve seats need to be replaced then you might as well put larger valves in but if the seats are fine I'd be inclined to simply replace the 37/30 valves with the tapered stem type you can get from SI valves.
  14. The H89 head would make more power but at a higher RPM. If you're street driving the car and trying to keep a usable power band I doubt you could live on the difference.
  15. What gearbox is in the car now? What's in the car should be a 63 series box, which uses a larger driveshaft yoke than the 60 series gearbox. The 60 series uses the same yoke has the 56 series driveshaft. As for the crossmember they are not to different and it's easy enough to fabricate an adapter out of plate steel (can be done with a hacksaw and drill) I did this in the 1200 I race. If you are just looking for a 5 speed one of the guys on Datsun1200.com has 63 series 5 speed. He is in Texas so not to far away. I have one as well but I'm not sure I wish to part with it and I'm in Vegas so shipping may be pricey. Any A-series cylinder head will bolt to any A series engine. What you have to be mindful of is bolting a late head on an early block. The A14 is considered a late block, the head you have should be a late head as well but double check Datsun1200.com under head compatibility.
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