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scooter

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About scooter

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/12/1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    penticton, bc
  • Cars
    77 200sx, 2015 fz09
  • Interests
    Datsuns of course!
    And bikes
    And planes
    And boats
  • Occupation
    Pilot, engine machinist

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  1. scooter

    sr20 oil pan bolts

    MOST LIKELY M6X20MM
  2. maybe not. the fun part though is to try. if it has an expert ported head with good rotating assembly bits and ALOT of boost if the stars align this will happen. you can fairly easily order rotating bits to make an L survive at that power level. ITS THE HEAD. the intake flow isnt even that bad. its trying to pack 500hp around that exhaust port bend. you guys are dead on about one of these NA. but you take that 220hp L and put a big ass wonton war whistle on it with some good fuel this will happen.
  3. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    any chance on flow bench numbers on this head?
  4. cylinder pressure wise the stock rods will hold as they are effing strong. the problem is l20b rods are like 730-750 grams each. if you try and turn it more rpm youll lose the rod bolts and window your motor. they will take somewhat more than stock with bolts but to make 450+ your gonna have to be above 8000 under high boost and this isnt stock rod territory. gonna need the pauters or a set from carrillo. and some good pistons. i personally think the crank should take it, probably a good idea to have it nitrided and get a bhj or ati balancer on it and a light flywheel. on the note of rod WEIGHT my engine runs ALOT smoother with lighter rods. approx 200 grams lighter per rod... in another thread a guy tried to use RB30 rods, which are close but are too narrow. if you use these then you need to get pistons built to run them piston guided. the jury is still out on using piston guided rods in datsuns.
  5. i love spray motors. I think overall more power can be made turbo though. baack to the post, go for it. even if you dont make your goal, if you get close your car will go like stink anyway. that japanese head has massive room for improvement. think this way a 450 hp L20b is equivilant to a 600hp L30. people have come close to that or are making that in all out drag form. it aint easy. The OP didnt say how this is gonna make the claimed power. 100hp/liter is capable out of an L series NA but thats about it. that is also a good place to put one on the sauce or a massive turbskie. id love to see an l20b-24 build with a gtx3071R or 3076R on it and try to go for it. or a GTX35 and try to go for 600+ on methanol. if you can keep it from detonating and keep the head on it, and not have the exhaust valve melt off, it may be possible. BTW ive had those pauter rods in my lz23 for the season now (the l20b length ones) in this 92mm stroke motor with no problems. its seen lots of 8000rpm nitrous fuelled passes. if you dont end up with long rods these hold up to the task.
  6. 300 is doable. im trying for 400whp next spring ( two nitrous kits) basically running two 125hp fogger kits on a 2.3. head is hella ported. i got through a season with the single 125 kit on it. you wont get there without race gas and a little luck, and creeping up little by little. expect to kill a couple head gaskets and melt a few ground straps off plugs getting there. the head has to be able to flow 450hp through the exaust valves. thats gonna be a tall order with the bore constraint of an L20b. im fully expecting to lift a head with the second kit. starting at a 50 shot on the second stage and working up on a pass by pass basis. 450whp wont be doable for highway pulls or standing mile, it will melt shit. above 300hp you will melt shit in 1/8th mile passes if you fuck up anything
  7. id wanna run steel on a v8 powered 280zx but a 1200 as light as it is could probably get away with them on circle track cars ive seen aluminum hubs break so lots of guys run steel on the right side and aluminum on the left side if using grand national 5x5 hubs pretty much all the wide 5 late models are running aluminum stuff though (wilwood starlite 55's)
  8. tom1200 you could buy the t3 billet aluminum hubs and see a weight savings on unsprung weight as well as rotating weight. 500 bucks though, theyre still half the price of the dpracing ones at 1000/pair.
  9. this the pump thats in question on church of L series right now on facebook and ive allready replied my thoughts on there... NFG. as for iron vs aluminum.. its arguable. I say the iron is better because the tolerances stay tighter cause iron doesnt grow like aluminum. one could argue aluminum is better as there could be less chance of galling or siezing because the aluminum acts like a "bearing". The aluminum pump is also lighter than the iron one if your trying to shed as much weight as possible.
  10. the melling ones are their own casting, and have either m90 or m111 on the side of them. they are cast iron and not aluminum like the hitachi/oem ones.
  11. i use the melling pumps but i do take them apart and deburr them as you can break chunks off with a pick if you try hard. might not come off from oil flow but better be safe. id pull the relief valve out and make sure it moves ok. if it doesnt bind up great and throw a couple little washers behind the spring while your at it for a little more pressure.
  12. probably counter gear bearing
  13. if you dont mind changing a spark plug once in a while avgas is great in weedeaters and other small engines. The smell is wonderful! mike may actually have a better supply of fuel then what I get up here, its questionable here sometimes as theres been a few people that had safe tunes in their turbo cars just to have them break ring lands due to a shit batch of "94" octane. the 87 is junk too, sometimes you get batches that will make your shitbox ping like crazy and othertimes not. on my old boat I had a chrysler 45 on it, it never had carburator problems, but if i ran ethanol gas I ended up replacing the fuel lines annually. on the flip side of the coin, i am DYING for pump E85 here. we're so bass ackwards up here in canada ugh. that would change everything
  14. not up here, leave gas in your lawnmower for three months and the fuel lines literally turn to bubblegum
  15. definitley the carbs have gunk in them. ethanol in pump gas now ruins everything. it wouldnt hurt to do a compression test or pull the valve cover for an inspection like mike said
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