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About scooter

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  • Birthday 05/12/1988

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Penticton, B.C.
  • Cars
    77 200sx, 94 chebby 2500 diesel
  • Interests
    Datsuns of course!
    And bikes
    And planes
    And boats
  • Occupation
    Jack of all, Master of None.

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  1. i agree with mike its to tingy to be a rod and it runs too good. these things and L series are rattle traps to begin with. its in the top end.
  2. I have done the technique that mike has done as well, with good results. I used a beer can box though
  3. efi will work 800000x better when running a turbskie
  4. this stuff is becoming black art these days but you need to google modulator rings and how they work. If you call cb performance you may be able to get some info on blow through dcoe's.
  5. That is a fine example you have there. Very nice find! a lil shock/ strut work with some decent vintage jap wheels and youll have a wicked little cruiser! Id love to have another one of these just stock to putt around in.
  6. i had to figure alot of stuff out as there is not much out there for these. most guys that get these cars pull the dogleg and l20b for their 510 and squash the rest due to their stock uglyness.. with a little bumper tuck and some cutting on the rear fenders you have yourself a mini kenmeri skyline. if your car is pristine, dont cut it up as they are HARD to get nice parts for. mine was allready crusty around the fenders so I did it a favor cutting them out and putting flares on it. there is not much stock on my car anymore, ive had it pretty much completely apart so if you need some info on anything just send me a message. Also PUT PICS UP OF THIS MUTHAAAA
  7. I have one of these with all the suspension mods. with a couple mods you dont need to get rid of the leaf setup. my car has similar corner speeds to modern hot hatches. rear traction is not a problem at all!!!!!! I am using stock leaves with the overload removed, crazy carpet between the springs, changed all the bushings to aluminum. I have "slapper bars" on the car which control axle wrap and stiffen the rate a fair bit as they clamp the springs. For Shocks im using PRO shocks PG series (now discontinued) in 4/4 valving. they are the 11 inch long body ones, same as what you'd use on a 2nd gen camaro. I had the stock rear diff for a while, then I went with a ford 8.8 (for drag racing) The design of the springs are very similar to 1200/b210/b310 springs. I'd like to get a set of nismo rear springs for a 1200 and see if they bolt in. if you dont need more power, run the stock axle. if you need an LSD there is a toyota center section that the axles will fit in, they just need the mounting holes re-drilled for the pumpkin. LSD's for H165's are like hens' teeth. These cars desperately need better brakes. if running a stock axle, making brackets for S13 Rear brakes is highly reccomended. With my current setup i get a little bit of understeer with the 1 1/8" swaybar on it. it needs a baby bar on the rear or maybe a lil smaller front bar. i can only get the rear to come loose if theres some shit on the road, clutch kick it or spray the fuck out of it with the street tires on it (NOS). As for the front, S10's are a little bit different than a 510, they are more like an A10 or a 710. you can use 510 aftermarket control arms and such, but they will be wound out a little farther than usual. these bolt on. (i am using the futofab ones.) For a sway bar, you need to trim the lil front lip off the crossmember a half inch off and drill new sway bar mount holes to mount an aftermarket 510 bar on it. (i have the futofab one) For Strut Swaps, everything is the same. the stock spindles are large like a 280z,zx but with the worlds shittiest brakes and theres nothing that you can really swap onto the stock struts. I tried. 280zx struts bolt in. s12 200sx struts are allmost bolt in, you need RCA's to go from the small 510/280zx knuckle reciever to the 200sx/300zx size. the bolt holes are the same but the centering rings are different. they will actually bolt on but you are relying on the shear strength of the 2 bolts. (this latter setup is what i am using with tokico illuminas and GC coilover kit) Ball joints are same as any later datsun ball joint. the 510 steering box braces wont work as its a 4 bolt top box instead of the 3 bolt ones. tie rods are the same as 510. my biggest gripe with this car when it was stock was the shit ass brakes and it was wayy wayy wayy too soft in the front. With just the s12 coilover swap it was like night and day. when the LCA's and swaybar went on the car became nearly a razorblade. My rear shocks were pretty dead so putting good racing rear shocks on it killed any weirdness out of the back.
  8. a ratsun fix for dead leaf spring liners is crazy carpets. buy one at your favorite winter store for 5 bucks and cut it into strips for your springs. It works well! as for pogoing, cut down your bump stops and get rid of those 5 dollar shocks and put on some that are worth a damn. you can go to a gas shock if you want but a high quality oil filled shock works great for leaf sprung vehicles.
  9. speedy sleeve! you should be able to find one. and hainz is right, put in a new double lip seal.
  10. like mike just said, check for leaks. if you have any rubber hose nipples that are open or cracked vaccuum lines that could help cause this. get a 12mm wrench and make sure the carb is actually tight on the intake. from what i remember about the stock carbs a couple of the nuts are a little hard to get at but if they are finger tight that could definitley cause this. i have had them back off before to the point that i could just pick the carb up right off the motor.
  11. ive looked into these in the past and they are hella expensive and the online reviews have been meh. could try ordering sunny ute springs off ebay from oz or south africa or something.
  12. I have the futofab ones and they have taken it one step further, they use even larger rod ends and use stepped spacers that go inside the rod end and have dust boots. perfect fit. i know this doesnt help you but just sayin. for yours I would just cut the outer spacer in half (the nut side) so the nylon engages and call it good.
  13. this is for a GM LS engine, you would have an underpipe to join onto the lower left like an early 90's gm 6.5 turbo diesel
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