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scooter

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About scooter

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/12/1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    penticton, bc
  • Cars
    77 200sx, 2015 fz09
  • Interests
    Datsuns of course!
    And bikes
    And planes
    And boats
  • Occupation
    Pilot, engine machinist

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  1. scooter

    product reviewz

    hey is there a good spot on here to stick product reviews? i have just bought a bunch of crap and i'll write a proper review if theres a good spot for it to hang out. this is for datsun parts of course not some random shit. mike?
  2. scooter

    Early Weber DCOE 40s

    try it. i dont have information on the float needle sizes all i know is if you make shitloads of power or turbo you need the larger ones. these carbs will most likely be fine for you, maybe a little on the lean side but may be okay if your at a higher altitude? once you get these on if it runs decent do a super long wide open highway pull (a minute+) and see if it starts crapping out. if it doesnt your needle valve size is probably ok. i dont even know what size mine have in them but im not having issues anyway.
  3. it will be interesting to see if i can get any significant pull on the crankcase with it. a super late model i used to work on had the same relief valve as above, but ran a 5 stage dry sump and pulled all the vaccuum. running a pump on your motor has other benefits too, like keeping oil from weeping out the seals 🙂
  4. If that pump doesnt have enough pull or if it dies right away then ill get a real vaccuum pump for it, i still really like the idea of driving it off the back of the alternator though.
  5. Theres two there, ones sitting in the bed and its easy ill go get it
  6. so i was strolling through pick a part today looking for another 71c trans for my car and stumbled across a 720 with a sd22 diesel in it. after seeing what trans it had, i moved on, but there was something different i noticed... and that was THAT THERES A FRICKIN VACCUM PUMP HANGING OFF THE ALTERNATORS BUTT! these are also internally regulated 70 amp alternators as well. so i grabbed it as it looked really minty. So for you guys with side drafts that want power brakes, now you can have vaccuum without messing around with your intake or have your brakes work with a monster camshaft. pretty neat. also very reliable if you run it in the way its intended. this looks like a bolt in if you are set up already with an internally regulated system. My plan is to try and pull crankcase vaccuum with it. output to a catch can and block off the oil feed. plumb it into the valve cover sans baffle so it hopefully gets enough residual oil not to have a melt down. why? because racecar! maybe you guys knew about this allready, but i didn't and thought it was pretty cool.
  7. scooter

    Early Weber DCOE 40s

    it should have the revision number on the lids as well. they are all not the same. ideally you want matched revisions on the same engine. some people have ran mismatched carbs before with success, but meh. internet reasoning dictates the old ones are good because the progression holes are drilled differently. what the difference is i dont know. ive owned two dcoe's ever which i currently have and love. http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/webers.htm check this out this link is gold and will get you real close. using this site for a mild l20b your 40 config will probibly be: 34 or 36 mil venturi's but no smaller than 32 for sure. smaller is better for low end response but will start eating into your top end power. f16 or f9 emulsion tubes, if its really hot rod maybe f2's but if its hot rod it should have 45's 145 main jet,190 air corrector idle jet, maybe like a 55f8, i would get a 50 and a 60 too so you can tune to what it likes. your float needle size will most likely be ok buy yourself a redline jet pack based on this being the middle of the road (they offer a few different kinds) and you can get these dialled in very decently. i used the info above to initially jet my motor, ended up going up just one jet size on the main jet and the idle then it was perfect.
  8. scooter

    Clutch and Flywheel Combo

    we shall see in the spring! The car is pretty consistent so if it is slower off the line and i lose E.T then i may switch back, but having the engine lose rpm quicker when shifting could improve it, also squaking the tires with the heavy flywheel when shifting doesnt help because the tires are spinning, plus accelerating that mass up three times in an eighth mile too. if i keep the same launch rpm i may lose some, but i might gain some as well due to less chance tire spin. also you gotta do it for the sound, engines that rev up and down like a crack of a whip kick ass.
  9. scooter

    2.3l ford ecoboost in a dime

    buddy of mine has a focus RS and this motor looks compact... HEAD GASKET HAHAH
  10. scooter

    Clutch and Flywheel Combo

    if you have access to a lathe and have a buddy to balance it, turn down a stock flywheel. I was running a turned down stock one for a while with an ACT HD 225mm pressure plate and 6 puck clutch. it worked well but a 6 puck is a little on-off. im going to a lighter flywheel from godzilla raceworks because i feel their 200 dollar crome moly flywheel is cheaper than sending my flywheel to the machine shop to get more hogged off it. (its about 22lbs right now)... i started out with a heavy ass z22 truck flywheel 😛 Also since its a manufactered chrome moly thing it makes me feel better that theres not a chance of taking my foot off if it explodes. launching on a 125 shot of nitrous with a hot motor, slicks on you could feel it give a little but definitly no clutch burnout. I also had a step cut onto my "stock" flywheel for more clamping force like distributorguy. if this is more of a street unit i'd do the GRW flywheel with a d21pp and a plain organic disk. there is alot of brand options in 225/240mm sizes. aluminum flywheels are poo
  11. it looks like I need to get another tranny from pick a part as i have taken my trans completely apart and 2nd,3rd sliders are pretty mashed. also had a broken 1-2 shift fork. The guts from this current one may get donated to this project. if i can get another 71b bell i'll start this project once i get a minty trans back in the car.
  12. Mike you wouldn't want to do this to your daily for sure.. This mod is what the old school drag racers did before Lencos and Jericos existed. its not good to drive to the gerocery store as there is a bunch of slop in the engagement system. you can shift these normally but will have a bit of crunch if you shift slow (same thing happens with dog trannys) the only gear you don't take extra off is for first gear, as you usually need all the strength you can get for launching at the strip. there is definitley more wear on the slider and gear teeth, but for race car use this can be considered acceptable. The way you would want to drive this is either ON throttle or OFF, and shift it like a pissed roid monkey. I dont think this would be a good idea for a road race car either as I think the gears would get eaten up pretty fast and sees more gear changes in a session than a drag car does in a season
  13. Morning boys and girls, I stumbled onto this article describing old school drag racing mods to chevy and chrysler trannies back in the day. It involves grinding every second engagement tooth off 2nd 3rd and 4th and every second spline off the sliders and taking the teeth off the synchros. The theory works the same as using face plates - dog rings. you are making the engagement system coarser so you have a better chance of slamming it into the next gear. Not good for street drivability (tons of slop in the tranny) but good for fast shifts at the drag strip... So has anyone of here tried to do these mods on a datsun tranny before? Im kinda tempted to get the guts from one from pick a part and give this a try. heres the article i was looking at http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2006/2006-05/2006_05_60.pdf I'd love to hear if any of you guys on here have done this in the past.
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