Jump to content

scooter

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    824
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

251 Excellent

About scooter

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/12/1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    penticton, bc
  • Cars
    77 200sx, 2015 fz09
  • Interests
    Datsuns of course!
    And bikes
    And planes
    And boats
  • Occupation
    Pilot, engine machinist

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. scooter

    L20B rebuild

    you can jb weld the slots if you dont have a welder. the next piece of electronics i want to add is a cb performance black box, so i can build a 3d timing map to get best power at all rpms. couple this with a locked dizzy and migrate to crank trigger. cant get much better other than going to coil packs. overall you should be okay. just try to make sure theres no sharp edges in or around the chambers so you lessen your chances of preignition
  2. scooter

    Cammed 210 head

    also if you bought the top end performance header, the ports in the flange are tiny and these will actually make less power than stock. theyre that bad. this was mine even after opening up the flange. the gasket is stock size. i gave this away after trying it due to dissapointment. i would only run this again if i couldnt find a manifold and if it was all i had. these ones are alot better, the flange actually matches the head. you might be able to find a NOS comp header which the one above is, or an ermish header or some other long tube thing. if you get a shorty, try and check out how the ports on the flange are. im not sure how other shorty ones compare, but the top end ones that the sell on ebay are poo.
  3. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    my heads not ruined? its come apart after 4 years of use and alot of nitrous for a refresh. yeah cold. never had one fall out. works for me. your decision i guess. im just advising you of what ive observed with dattos ive had over the last 10 years. how many times have you had to adjust valves since install? looks pretty. all im trying to get at is lots of people have this issue, and if the heads at the machine shop why wouldnt you try and eliminate the possibility of this happening. they are not going to make your 120hp datsun make more power. sure maybe they might work out for you, but when we have posts explaining how to shorten pivot posts so you can run the head a lil longer with this issue.. the ones ive had sink valves were stock motors and did quite a bit of on highway commuting.. the 620 i had essentially would run WFO from bc to alberta and back with the 4 speed so 5000-5500 all the time. they probably wernt tuned up the best either. ALSO, This. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjZk8ib-MPgAhU0Mn0KHYWcCi8QjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rhdjapan.com%2Fkameari-l-type-adjustable-timing-chain-tensioner-l6.html&psig=AOvVaw2k_Wscz2nJb6GBSnf4SDKS&ust=1550533141816596 lil chunk of metal fabbed up and a roll pin, your tensioner battles are over.
  4. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    then dont heat it. you can simply just cut the old seats out. this doesnt mess with the guides or anything like that. you can simply remove the old seat, if you confirm the size you can essentially just bang a replacement one in, as long as you have the required crush. I've put them in with 7 thou crush and they are fine. you will want to complete your valve job after seat replacement as this will usually distort the neighbouring valve seat. if your going through this effort you should get rid of those brass seats, you will be adjusting the valves every 1000 miles otherwise. i've ran two heads completely out of adjustment due to stock valve seat sink. the U67 I used to build mine had sunken valves, I've had an L16 with a 210 head that ran out of adjustment, and an A87 that did it as well, I also have another A87 closed chamber head that needs new intake seats as well. for a limited fuck around car you dont really need any fancy oil control stuff... I recently did one of the ishuara johnson crank scrapers for mine, as paying 1500 for a oil pan is bullshit. I didnt have any oiling problems last time around, but for 80 bucks it cant hurt to keep more oil in the pan. i agree with mike, get the high volume pump. i didnt run an oil cooler either, not sure if im going to install one too. pics or it didnt happen.
  5. scooter

    U67 Cylinder Head Valves

    how much timing did you have in it at idle?
  6. scooter

    U67 Cylinder Head Valves

    did you run that thing with the dizzy locked? i modified mine so i have 15 at idle and 32 all in. it liked lots of advance at idle, if i tried to dial it back the header would start to glow. yuuuuup
  7. scooter

    Info on long runner manifold.

    those need to get run on a dyno mule to see what effect they would make... maybe those had something to do with a propane setup possibly?
  8. scooter

    U67 Cylinder Head Valves

    you are correct sir. i may have gone hog wild.. For the sake of the original poster, this has had the seats knocked out and replaced with ones for 45 and 36mm valves. because its such a cute little turbskie you dont need to go nuts.. but smoothing things out is a good idea and i agree with mike.
  9. scooter

    U67 Cylinder Head Valves

    get the 35mm valves, you may need to bore notch the block with the 38mm valves and you have to cut a bunch out of the side of the chamber to use them effectively. they are better for big bore builds with a 90mm gasket. unshroud the chambers to the head gasket the best you can, port work on the exhaust side will help too as they are pooey ports. as for intakes, 44 seems popular. you will encounter shrouding issues with the 46mm valve as well.
  10. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    your going to have to put the valves deeper into the head and blend out the chambers with p90 valves as they are shorter. you could use p90 seats as well. i think they are .100ish shorter overall and the tip is a little shorter as well. you need to get the stem height back up to the stock installed height or you will have all the problems. If your 45 cut doesnt hit the outside of the seat, then run it with the stock seats... well as long as it still doesnt have the brass intake seats.. get those out of there. l20b valves are 4.53 inches long and the p90 ones are 4.45 inches long. I used ferrea valves in mine which are the shorter ones. i had to put them deeper in the head and blend it out. It works good but if you havin't bought the valves yet your better off getting the pep stainless ones or the si ones as you can get the longer length ones. I didnt know of these till way after mine was in the car and running. 12:1 isnt going to be happy on pump gas, Ive tried. it will happily run on avgas though 🙂 I am refreshing my motor this year and i have opened up the chambers quite a bit, hopefully i can get down to 11:1 with the flat tops and get away with 94 and octane boost. If you go to a 90 mm bore you might as well go to 45mm intake and 38mm exhaust, new seats, cut the chamber out to the edge of the gasket, make it a stump puller.
  11. scooter

    Franken engine

    it would be a good hobby machinist project. I think the easiest way to make this work is to machine the crank snout down to KADE snout size, so you can run the correct crank gear. coolant holes and oil drains would be just welding up and dealing with accordingly along with some chain guide mods, looking at what the aussie guy did, it doesnt look impossible. also theres no point unless your boring it to at least 89mm the other benefit to this is an L block is alot lighter than a KA block, well at least a car block anyway. if you did it with an L18 (like the oz motor) you would be considerably lighter than a KA swap and still make more power than an L motor. lighter than an SR? probably not. but unless you do the VE swap which has its own issues, you get a cam on bucket motor without the stupid forked piece of shit garbage rocker arms.
  12. scooter

    One six industries

    this isnt a bad way to have a cam/crank sensor installed on an L series, its good because its a plug and play solution for someone who doesnt/cant run a crank trigger wheel on the front of their motor. as for efi and my own opinion, meh. id rather keep the carbs but this could be of good use for someone who wants to go coil on plug ignition. these motors could really benefit from some kind of computer controlled ignition, even while retaining sidedrafts or what have you.
  13. scooter

    Twin Weber 40 DCOE length

    i have seen these as well, they are in the shape of a big S and put the tops of the carbs the same height as the valve cover from what i remember. the pierce one is about an inch shorter and raises the carbs about an inch and a half compared to the cannon PN 3825 manifold.
  14. scooter

    product reviewz

    hey is there a good spot on here to stick product reviews? i have just bought a bunch of crap and i'll write a proper review if theres a good spot for it to hang out. this is for datsun parts of course not some random shit. mike?
  15. scooter

    Early Weber DCOE 40s

    try it. i dont have information on the float needle sizes all i know is if you make shitloads of power or turbo you need the larger ones. these carbs will most likely be fine for you, maybe a little on the lean side but may be okay if your at a higher altitude? once you get these on if it runs decent do a super long wide open highway pull (a minute+) and see if it starts crapping out. if it doesnt your needle valve size is probably ok. i dont even know what size mine have in them but im not having issues anyway.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.