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About scooter

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/12/1988

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Penticton, B.C.
  • Cars
    77 200sx, moby dick the work van.
  • Interests
    Datsuns of course!
    And bikes
    And planes
    And boats
  • Occupation
    Jack of all, Master of None.

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  1. 2.25 -2.5 is good. The stock manifold is better than one of those shorty headers so stay away from those. the bigger the pipe the louder it will be as well no matter what muffler is on it.
  2. you could use an rb20/25 flywheel and clutch as well
  3. scooter


    Good idea on the hole punch, I used razor blades but this would make for neat rounded corners. i prefer beer boxes myself for material..
  4. VAG 1.9 tdi with the fuel pin ground within an inch of its life would be a good swap for an off road 620 as well
  5. scooter

    L18 vs (L)z20

    z20 ten times out of 10... "what stoff said"
  6. you can buy model d274 pads from g-loc, they will make them for you. you can still get rotors and calipers from rockauto. the 4 cyl calipers are ok.. they are within a couple mm of a 280zx brake specs so they work just as well... ive had beck arnley rotors on it this whole time (5 years ish) and theres been no warpage or anything.
  7. ka24 or if you want modern light flavor qr25
  8. I have been running these for the last 5 years, still nice and tight on the rod ends and the tc arm.. i DO need to take them back off and re-polish them as they are looking pretty weathered now. if your running these on the street you gotta have the rubber boots that go on the rod ends... it keeps them pristine.
  9. your clunk your strut top hat bearing is effed. your easiest and bolt on fix is to find a complete set of 280zx struts and brakes and put the whole assembly in it. you can use s13 stuff if you get the knuckle, brakes, strut, top hat basically the whole assembly. i think it will go on the stock ball joint (check it out). you may have to use an adjustable height outer tie rod end to get the bump steer back in check. you will also need new s13 front brake hoses, the stock ones aint gonna work. you may also need to upsize your master cylinder to get enough fluid flow with
  10. i had one of these too, had to belt sand the fuck out of it to get it flat. the port match is terrible. fix those two things and its half okay. I ran it for a couple years then got my hands on a nissan comp header. The car picked up a bunch of top end power. that green gasket material is the bomb though, if anyone knows where to get a big blank chunk of that stuff let me know.
  11. Youll be okay. Just leave the oil pan off the bottom half and valve cover before you go to bed so when you wake up in the middle of the night wide eyed cause you forgot to check something you can run into the garage in your underwear to re-assure yourself. Dont be afraid to go back and check to make sure the bottom end is torqued up properly. If your file fitting the rings if you go a little on the loose side it wont be a catastrophe, well within reason. Dont cut the oil ring down just make sure the oil ring rails dont butt together in the bore. Make sure you deburr the edge
  12. cool to see these pistons, i was contemplating these for the next engine i want to build, lz24
  13. weld the diff so you dont get stuck on a rock doing a 1 tire fire. make some strut hat spacers to give it a "lift kit" maybe put a snorkel on it for hitting big puddles... seal the dizzy up and the rest of the ignition.. epoxy filled coil instead of an oil filled one.... A series are tough little buggers. its probably worth it putting a skid plate on it... a winch that you can move from the front to the back probably isnt a bad idea... no one likes getting stuck. otherwise GIVER and have a GOOD TIME!!!!!!!!
  14. whoops! i was not sober when i got that part number. its supposed to be 2-3-13461X for fs5w71A,B,C or automatic.
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