datsunaholic Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Well, no wonder that won't run. The EGR and PCV vacuum ports are wide open. That's NOT how you do an emissions delete. Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Well, no wonder that won't run. The EGR and PCV vacuum ports are wide open. That's NOT how you do an emissions delete. The pcv was blocked but show me where the egr port is wide open! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 The EGR isn't even there!!! Choke and idle cut need to be wired also. Did the same friend say to do this that said to take the block vent off?? and put the spindle in?? He's an idiot. Stop having him over. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the bolts are busted in it also. Who is your mechanic friend???????? plug that up and will fire right up Your distributor is fine 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 I think I'm the closest ratsun guy to mt vernon when I'm not at work but this is beyond me I think. One picture has 2 vacuum hoses need plugged and another has a third. Whole thing looks wet, why is everything wet? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 One is vacuum advance the other EGR... it will run without them but the advance should be connected later. Won't idle without the idle cut solenoid wire connected to a 12 volt source. Choke won't come off unless the same. This is like a detective story. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Bet he pored gas in the carb and it came right out. You think he might notice this and think DUH!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 I took the EGR manifold off an intake and both ports were plugged with carbon.... Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Detective story? You're being nice!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: Given the run of events here, I'd say its time to enlist a pro, or you'll always have several things wrong that you can't identify, and you'll drive it with "acceptable" problems until those problems cause permanent damage. Pay someone to tackle it for a couple hours and get you running. From there you can maintain it. I have a "friend" that I blame stuff on too. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
DatsuNissanLove Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Told you not to trust friends with ur shit... i have a buddy that wenever i or another one of our buddies is working on a car he wants to tear the fuckin whole thing apart cuz supposedly he knows how to do it... he left one of my friends with his car apart half way through the job lol..i had to finish it cuz the poor guy was clueless.. ill slap da shit out of ur friend and stick a carrot up his ass..lol.. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 dry it out then get some speed tape and tape it up and see if it wants to start better. then youll know your dist and everything else is fine 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 The pcv was blocked but show me where the egr port is wide open! No, you plugged the PCV's crankcase outlet. That won't have any effect other than making oil blow out the valve cover air INLET. What's open is the ports on the intake manifold because someone took off the EGR extension (breaking the bolts as mentioned by Hainz) and didn't plug the holes. So now your intake manifold is wide open to the air. Because the EGR extension was also the PCV port, you have no where to run it. What I had was a flat plate that bolted over where the EGR manifold went, with a 90 degree fitting which the PCV is attached to and so while the EGR is deleted the PCV still works. But someone is going to have to EZout the broken studs so you could do that. Or, you can go the shadetree route and fill the ports with JBweld. You'd never have a PCV again, so once the engine develops blowby (if it already hasn't) you'd have a nice oil mess coming out the valve cover. And you'll have to change the oil more often without the PCV as it will become acidic far faster. Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the bolts are busted in it also. Who is your mechanic friend???????? plug that up and will fire right up Your distributor is fine Are you saying to block the pcv because I'm getting a new one today Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 No but seriously my friend told me that the pcv was just egr and I didn't need it Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 I think I'm the closest ratsun guy to mt vernon when I'm not at work but this is beyond me I think. One picture has 2 vacuum hoses need plugged and another has a third. Whole thing looks wet, why is everything wet? I was cleaning! It's de greaser. Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 I think I'm the closest ratsun guy to mt vernon when I'm not at work but this is beyond me I think. One picture has 2 vacuum hoses need plugged and another has a third. Whole thing looks wet, why is everything wet? Show me where you are saying there are vacuum hoses that need to be plugged! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Nothing needs plugging. The carb fitting to the front with the Black plug over the end is for the EGR (which you don't have) so leave it. The fitting to the rear with the Blue cover is the vacuum advance and should have a small hose connecting it to that little metal pipe closest to it. The other end of the metal pipe should go near the distributor. Here another small hose should connect it to the can on the side of the distributor. Any other openings on that line must be closed off. Now the vacuum advance signal from the port on the side of the carb can get to the distributor. Let me guess. Your 'friend' said you don't need it right? Well, give him a kick in the nuts for me. We got more done with these pictures than the last 10 pages, so post more of everything. Show the distributor and the metal lines near it. Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Nothing needs plugging. The carb fitting to the front with the Black plug over the end is for the EGR (which you don't have) so leave it. The fitting to the rear with the Blue cover is the vacuum advance and should have a small hose connecting it to that little metal pipe closest to it. The other end of the metal pipe should go near the distributor. Here another small hose should connect it to the can on the side of the distributor. Any other openings on that line must be closed off. Now the vacuum advance signal from the port on the side of the carb can get to the distributor. Let me guess. Your 'friend' said you don't need it right? Well, give him a kick in the nuts for me. We got more done with these pictures than the last 10 pages, so post more of everything. Show the distributor and the metal lines near it. Thanks man! I will take pictures of everything when I get to my shop and when I get the pcv hooked up it should run right? Quote Link to comment
Sastis Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Do what Mike said... Thanks man! I will take pictures of everything when I get to my shop and when I get the pcv hooked up it should run right? One is vacuum advance the other EGR... it will run without them but the advance should be connected later. Won't idle without the idle cut solenoid wire connected to a 12 volt source. Choke won't come off unless the same. This is like a detective story. Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Do what Mike said... I already said I would Quote Link to comment
Rick-rat Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 The pipe isn't there anymore it's just open! If this your motor, you need to find the pipe near the back of the block and put it back on, or go find one somewhere. From there you will run a hose to the intake manifold and put a PCV valve in the hose before the intake. That piece you took off the intake would be handy to hook this up Needs more RTV Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 If this your motor, you need to find the pipe near the back of the block and put it back on, or go find one somewhere. From there you will run a hose to the intake manifold and put a PCV valve in the hose before the intake. That piece you took off the intake would be handy to hook this up Needs more RTV Can I make my own pcv valve like this or do I need the OEM one? Quote Link to comment
Datsundude123 Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 And can someone show me a pic of their pcv on their motor please? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 This is from a '77 L20B with the co-joined manifolds. The threaded hole is for a vacuum fitting. PCV on right. EGR valve on extreme left just outside the picture. EGR manifold removed from intake. The two black holes distribute exhaust gasses to the two intake runners. The vacuum fitting and the PCV share the top hole into the intake. Both are under vacuum when the engine is running. EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) only happens above idle or the engine would stall. The EGR valve allows recirculation by way of a ported vacuum signal on the carb. The one with the Black cover in your picture mentioned earlier. Did you kick 'friend' in the nuts yet? Quote Link to comment
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