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Distributor rotors


Datsundude123

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stop making a new thread moron that is now blocked.

 

You got the 11.28 correct. Great

 

Just move the dist  dial in the distributor till it starts. move it a few degs each time.  maybe even pull the 10mm bolt that hold it down till you get it started.

 

 

ONly other thing is the hot start wire isnt hooked up correctly.

Take soem photos of the ballast resisit and coil wireing together.

 

 

Put where you live and maybe some one close can do it for you

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stop making a new thread moron that is now blocked.

 

You got the 11.28 correct. Great

 

Just move the dist dial in the distributor till it starts. move it a few degs each time. maybe even pull the 10mm bolt that hold it down till you get it started.

 

 

ONly other thing is the hot start wire isnt hooked up correctly.

Take soem photos of the ballast resisit and coil wireing together.

 

 

Put where you live and maybe some one close can do it for you

no need to call him a moron.. hes just trying to get his truck running
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stop making a new thread moron that is now blocked.

 

You got the 11.28 correct. Great

 

Just move the dist dial in the distributor till it starts. move it a few degs each time. maybe even pull the 10mm bolt that hold it down till you get it started.

 

 

ONly other thing is the hot start wire isnt hooked up correctly.

Take soem photos of the ballast resisit and coil wireing together.

 

 

Put where you live and maybe some one close can do it for you

received_1078744582198664_zpszzknoi4u.jp

 

 

Here!

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Yes I looked and I couldn't find anything! I'll get some pictures posted when I get to my shop in a few minutes!

 

Well it's not very scientific but at TDC the first cam lobe should be at 2 o'clock the next one back at 10 o'clock as viewed from the front of the engine.

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when a L motor doesnt start this is what i do.

 

ck for spark

ck to see gas squirting in carb

adjust the valve lash/ck the spark plugs.

Of coarse this was on a already running motor so I will assume wiring is all correct already.

 

 

let I said turn the dist one way then the other.

If you have a vaccum leak if you pour enough gas it will still at least fire. then you know you got the timming right enough to start

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when a L motor doesnt start this is what i do.

 

ck for spark

ck to see gas squirting in carb

adjust the valve lash/ck the spark plugs.

Of coarse this was on a already running motor so I will assume wiring is all correct already.

 

 

let I said turn the dist one way then the other.

If you have a vaccum leak if you pour enough gas it will still at least fire. then you know you got the timming right enough to start

I'm pretty sure it's a vacuum leak then because when I pour gas in the carb it will sorts dtart.

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It has to be running to have a vacuum reading. The carb gasket might have a leak or bolts not tight. If this is a 32/36 weber it will have extra gaskets for the adapter. Sometimes the adapter can crack from over tightening it, other times the bolts come loose.

 

 

If it starts (sort of) by pouring gas in it, what happens if you look into the carb and work the throttle? Do you see a spray of gas?

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It has to be running to have a vacuum reading. The carb gasket might have a leak or bolts not tight. If this is a 32/36 weber it will have extra gaskets for the adapter. Sometimes the adapter can crack from over tightening it, other times the bolts come loose.

 

 

If it starts (sort of) by pouring gas in it, what happens if you look into the carb and work the throttle? Do you see a spray of gas?

It's the stock carb and yes it sprays gas if I work the throttle.

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