Distributor rotors

[Datsundude123]

 

 

This is the distributor I have for it right now.

[Datsundude123]

Can you give me a link to where I can find the right EI distributor and the coil to go with it??

 

Thanks.

[datzenmike]

 

Yay or nayyyy

 

I know absolutely nothing about distributors so I don't know what's good and what isn't

 

Try this and look for any '79 year.

[datzenmike]

22100-B8001 is '75 through '77 manual transmission non California.

[Datsundude123]

22100-B8001 is '75 through '77 manual transmission non California.

So that should work for my 77 l20b but for some reason I'm not getting spark at my spark plugs but I'm getting great spark from my coil and I have no idea why.

[flatcat19]

1979 Datsun Anything. L20B

 

Dist. Cap. Rotor. Coil. NGK Plugs. Wires.

Don't miss anything on the list.

 

 

Everything is from a 1979 w/L20b.

[Datsundude123]

1979 Datsun Anything. L20B

 

Dist. Cap. Rotor. Coil. NGK Plugs. Wires.

Don't miss anything on the list.

 

 

Everything is from a 1979 w/L20b.

 

So I should just get everything 1979?

 

Why?

 

Thanks.

[Datsundude123]

 

 

Right now I'm using this universal coil that came with the truck.

[flatcat19]

1979 is what the dizzy came in. Everything else fits that dizzy.

 

 

If you're trying to go the cheap route and just get your car on the road, stick with what you got coming.

[flatcat19]

Right now I'm using this universal coil that came with the truck.

Probably not the right coil to be using.

[Datsundude123]

I just don't know what to do right now because my spark plugs don't get spark but my coil has pretty good spark

 

I don't know if I need a new distributor or whatever.

[datzenmike]

If you have spark at the coil then the distributor is working.

 

The spark has to get from the coil to the plugs. To do this it travels down the coil wire to the distributor cap. From there down inside to the rotor which points it at the correct plug wire from underneath. The plug wire takes it to the plug.

 

The rotor may be pointing between plug wires. The button of connection between the coil wire and the rotor may be worn out. If you have a new distributor cap then maybe the rotor is pointing between wires.

 

 

 

NEED INFO

 

Did this just start to happen?

 

Have you had the engine apart? or rebuilt?

[Datsundude123]

Yes it just started happening and yes I've rebuilt the motor.

[Datsundude123]

Could it be my oil pump spindle/shaft because when I lined up the dots on it it was way off from the 11-28 position in that one picture.

[datzenmike]

OK if you had it apart and now you can't start it the spindle is likely in wrong and this would place the rotor in some unknown position.

 

 

 

Set your engine to TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder. If not sure take the valve cover off and look at the cam lobes on the front cylinder. The first lobe or bump should be at 2 o'clock and the next at 10 o'clock as seen from the front. Set the crank pulley notch at the 0 (zero) on the timing scale. 

 

Unbolt the distributor and lift out. The spindle should be in the 11:28 position. If not unbolt the oil pump and lower it, likely the spindle will fall out too. Re-position everything so that you have the required 11:28 

[Datsundude123]

OK if you had it apart and now you can't start it the spindle is likely in wrong and this would place the rotor in some unknown position.

 

 

 

Set your engine to TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder. If not sure take the valve cover off and look at the cam lobes on the front cylinder. The first lobe or bump should be at 2 o'clock and the next at 10 o'clock as seen from the front. Set the crank pulley notch at the 0 (zero) on the timing scale.

 

Unbolt the distributor and lift out. The spindle should be in the 11:28 position. If not unbolt the oil pump and lower it, likely the spindle will fall out too. Re-position everything so that you have the required 11:28

 

Can I just eye ball the 11:28 position? because when I line up the dots like hainz said in the video it's all outta wack! I will post some pictures when I get to my shop.

 

Thanks.

[DatsuNissanLove]

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u

372/loommarker/Mobile%20Uploads/received_1078744582198664_zpszzknoi4u.jpeg

 

 

Right now I'm using this universal coil that came with the truck.

do not use this coil.. i bet that is the problem your having with your plugs..i had bad experience with this coil only because the guys at oreilly dont know wut the hell they are talking about.(not all the guys)..my engine would start to sputter n sometimes would eventually turn off at stops.. assuming the spark plugs were getting nothing.. i think my distributor is off of a 73, 74 ,75 toyota pick up.. has been working fine..

[Datsundude123]

do not use this coil.. i bet that is the problem your having with your plugs..i had bad experience with this coil only because the guys at oreilly dont know wut the hell they are talking about.(not all the guys)..my engine would start to sputter n sometimes would eventually turn off at stops.. assuming the spark plugs were getting nothing.. i think my distributor is off of a 73, 74 ,75 toyota pick up.. has been working fine..

 

Eight! I'll pick one up.

 

Thanks.

[distributorguy]

The accell yellow coil is 3 ohms.  You need 1.5 with the electronic ignitions.  You can bypass that 1.7 Ohm ballast resistor and you're good to go.  NO one, and i mean NO ONE makes a decent set of plug wires for our trucks.  They're all VERY high resistance, which can cause drivability issues (delayed, weak spark to the plugs.)  If you felt comfortable making your own, you can buy a Taylor V8 plug wire set as almost all of them are 1/3 the resistance of the NGK, Napa, Standard Ignition, and other wire sets I have here that I refuse to put in my truck.  I know for a fact the Moroso Blue Max plug wires are good too.  

 

As far as Cardone rebuilds go, they suck.  They beat the crap out of the housings so you can't read the stampings any more, pack it full of grease and send you on your way.  Will it run?  Yep.  Will it run well?  Only if you get lucky.  Here they cost $164 by the time you pay for a core, plus cap and rotor and its not even rebuilt - just cleaned.  

[Draker]

The accell yellow coil is 3 ohms.  You need 1.5 with the electronic ignitions.  You can bypass that 1.7 Ohm ballast resistor and you're good to go.  NO one, and i mean NO ONE makes a decent set of plug wires for our trucks.  They're all VERY high resistance, which can cause drivability issues (delayed, weak spark to the plugs.)  If you felt comfortable making your own, you can buy a Taylor V8 plug wire set as almost all of them are 1/3 the resistance of the NGK, Napa, Standard Ignition, and other wire sets I have here that I refuse to put in my truck.  I know for a fact the Moroso Blue Max plug wires are good too.  

 

As far as Cardone rebuilds go, they suck.  They beat the crap out of the housings so you can't read the stampings any more, pack it full of grease and send you on your way.  Will it run?  Yep.  Will it run well?  Only if you get lucky.  Here they cost $164 by the time you pay for a core, plus cap and rotor and its not even rebuilt - just cleaned.  

 

What ohm wire should be ran with a factory electronic ignition dizzy? I bought the blue NGK, but I still get a little stumble and I have a feeling it's ignition related since I just swapped on fresh ztherapy carbs. I hooked up the scope and checked the waveforms. They all look good. I am going to swap out my plugs. They are low mileage but have been soaked in fuel and oil a few times.

[DatsuNissanLove]

The accell yellow coil is 3 ohms. You need 1.5 with the electronic ignitions. You can bypass that 1.7 Ohm ballast resistor and you're good to go. NO one, and i mean NO ONE makes a decent set of plug wires for our trucks. They're all VERY high resistance, which can cause drivability issues (delayed, weak spark to the plugs.) If you felt comfortable making your own, you can buy a Taylor V8 plug wire set as almost all of them are 1/3 the resistance of the NGK, Napa, Standard Ignition, and other wire sets I have here that I refuse to put in my truck. I know for a fact the Moroso Blue Max plug wires are good too.

 

As far as Cardone rebuilds go, they suck. They beat the crap out of the housings so you can't read the stampings any more, pack it full of grease and send you on your way. Will it run? Yep. Will it run well? Only if you get lucky. Here they cost $164 by the time you pay for a core, plus cap and rotor and its not even rebuilt - just cleaned.

since you know a lot about distributors..wen my bro had his 521 i always noticed that his engine always had a lil more power and better response then mine..(both are l16)..n one day i was changing out his distributor cap n rotor and noticed it had dual points.. is that the reason why it felt better then mine? The only other difference is he still had his hitachi carb.. but was beginning to give him problems.. wut do u think?

[datzenmike]

Set 11:28 by eye. There are only 20? teeth so 18 degrees apart so you can't mess this up.  

 

 

A 3 ohm coil is way too much resistance to be used with a ballast resistor. It will work but have a weaker spark than the stock coil. A points coil is about half that (1.5 ohms) when used with a i.5 ohm ballast. An EI coil is 0.8 to 1 ohm. You could run without the ballast or better yet get a stock points coil.

 

 

If you have spark at the coil but not at the plugs it's the distributor spindle positioned wrong.

[Datsundude123]

Set 11:28 by eye. There are only 20? teeth so 18 degrees apart so you can't mess this up.

 

 

A 3 ohm coil is way too much resistance to be used with a ballast resistor. It will work but have a weaker spark than the stock coil. A points coil is about half that (1.5 ohms) when used with a i.5 ohm ballast. An EI coil is 0.8 to 1 ohm. You could run without the ballast or better yet get a stock points coil.

 

 

If you have spark at the coil but not at the plugs it's the distributor spindle positioned wrong.

Alright thanks for the help! When I get to my shop I'll fix it.

[distributorguy]

Points generally need 3 Ohms, while electronics work great with 1.5 (factory Datsun coil.)  Some electronics will accept a lower Ohm coil, but some will fry in short order if you drop below the 1.5 ohms on a 4 cylinder.  For example, the same system is used on a 280Z, but since its a 6 cylinder you can run a .8 Ohm coil with no issues, as it has to fire 50% more often and you need more input voltage to pull that off without running out of dwell time (to put it in the simplest terms.)  

 

Plug wires work best in the 1k - 3k Ohm range.  NGKs are roughly 10k Ohms.  If you run points, you can use 0 Ohm copper core wires if you like, but the 1000 Ohms will actually force coil voltage up a bit, providing a hotter spark at the plug.  Also, stay away from precious metal plugs.  Basic copper plugs will run the best on a  carbureted car, and be less likely to foul if the choke isn't working perfectly or you pump the pedal one too many times when you start it.  

 

As for your brother's truck running better than yours, that has more to do with the timing curve than dual points.  It likely had more precise timing at all (each) rpm so it was in better tune throughout the rpm band.  This results in faster acceleration.  If your timing is 5-10 degree out of whack from 1000-2500 rpm, it'll result in poor acceleration off the line, but still feel good while cruising.  This is the standard "smog" formula for vehicles sold in the US from 1973-1980.  The 1980 electronic distributor had a little better advance curve (timing profile as drawn on a grid based by advance and rpm) which is why people think its better.  Put the same advance curve in a points distributor, and points will outperform electronics.  Better yet, modify a stock single point distributor to have optimal timing for your engine and you'll have some REAL throttle response!  That's what I get to do for a living!

[DatsuNissanLove]

Points generally need 3 Ohms, while electronics work great with 1.5 (factory Datsun coil.) Some electronics will accept a lower Ohm coil, but some will fry in short order if you drop below the 1.5 ohms on a 4 cylinder. For example, the same system is used on a 280Z, but since its a 6 cylinder you can run a .8 Ohm coil with no issues, as it has to fire 50% more often and you need more input voltage to pull that off without running out of dwell time (to put it in the simplest terms.)

 

Plug wires work best in the 1k - 3k Ohm range. NGKs are roughly 10k Ohms. If you run points, you can use 0 Ohm copper core wires if you like, but the 1000 Ohms will actually force coil voltage up a bit, providing a hotter spark at the plug. Also, stay away from precious metal plugs. Basic copper plugs will run the best on a carbureted car, and be less likely to foul if the choke isn't working perfectly or you pump the pedal one too many times when you start it.

 

As for your brother's truck running better than yours, that has more to do with the timing curve than dual points. It likely had more precise timing at all (each) rpm so it was in better tune throughout the rpm band. This results in faster acceleration. If your timing is 5-10 degree out of whack from 1000-2500 rpm, it'll result in poor acceleration off the line, but still feel good while cruising. This is the standard "smog" formula for vehicles sold in the US from 1973-1980. The 1980 electronic distributor had a little better advance curve (timing profile as drawn on a grid based by advance and rpm) which is why people think its better. Put the same advance curve in a points distributor, and points will outperform electronics. Better yet, modify a stock single point distributor to have optimal timing for your engine and you'll have some REAL throttle response! That's what I get to do for a living!

Wow ur sick!!!