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Everything posted by distributorguy

  1. Hey Turbosauce, "I don't think anyone commenting has an idea how to build a certified cage cause for one your main hoop must be one piece." Ummmm.... mine is certified for 200 mph+ at Bonneville... Must be junk because your guy didn't build it? They refuse NHRA and NASCAR cages because they aren't safe enough without modifications. Yours wouldn't pass either. There are different rules for different types of racing. Street is altogether different and doesn't need to meet any rule book, but does need to be made safely. To weld the top of the cage, drop it through h
  2. You don't need new springs. The spring tabs are adjustable, and the originals will actually perform well if you clean up the weights and make sure there's no grease on them.
  3. The Jegs Ford Ranger cage is a good place to start, but will require 4x6 mounting plates to the cab floor/sills along with a lot of custom trimming, coping, etc... I tied mine into the frame directly, along with adding 2 rear points, helmet restraint, etc... For a street vehicle you'll find that an adequate cage not only takes up precious real estate, but if not done properly can cause more harm than good.
  4. $250 for a used core is very high. I used to buy them used for $30. But then again I charge $200 for rebuilds, and that's cheap compared to a few other REAL vendors who actually rebuild them, not just clean and reassemble - there's a huge difference in how well your truck will run and how long it lasts.
  5. Mike, you're one of those guys who just keeps spouting BS with which you have limited experience. Provide proof for what you're saying. Show me how a Pertronix can "shut off" outside signals in their circuitry - or any other brand. To say that no one uses points is idiotic. About 60% of classic cars still use points, and that number is growing as people learn and compare. No electronic ignition is "smart enough" to reject signals that appear correct. None of them. Dwell time is just the "dead time" when they would normally receive no signal. It doesn't mean they can't rece
  6. There is a constant low voltage signal pulsing on and off hundreds of times per second through the module and its wiring, and the retroactive pulse of high voltage power through the plug wires can send a false signal to the "inert???" module, similar enough to what it sees from flying magnets to cause it to fire again, between "planned" pulses. The magnetic field that builds inside the distributor builds up until the misfire occurs - maybe after every 100-200 cylinder fires. The coil can discharge when its not supposed to, resulting in a weak spark (undercharged coil) the next time its supp
  7. And your electronic ignition.
  8. The only reason the "matchbox" distributor runs better than the points distributor is the advance curve it has. Its closer to ideal. When you put the Matchbox timing curve into an early points distributor, the points will outperform the electronics. Dyno proven, repeatedly. Getting the timing right is far more important than what trigger you use, then it comes down to reliability and consistency. Electronics next to spark plug wires inherently have misfire issues. Ask any electrical engineer - or any electrical hobbyist for that matter. Low voltage signals are always affected by adjacen
  9. To answer the initial question, Mallory was bought out by MSD about 3 years ago. A year later MSD was acquired by Holley. At that point Holley retired the Mallory brand. Any parts you find now are either defective or Chinese knock-offs of the originals, not the same quality and they weren't known for great quality to start with. Mallory distributors were always designed to be race distributors - meaning they need to be rebuilt or at least recurved annually to continue to run well. The OEM Hitachi distributor was always a more robust unit, and can be made to outperform any aftermarket dis
  10. I ran into this at Bonneville: take apart the connector at the side of the distributor where the wires hook up. Throw away the corroded screw and nut after you go to the hardware store and buy brand new ones. If you get a flashing test light at the negative side of the coil while cranking, and the cap, rotor, and plug wires are all in their correct places, the only thing left is to check and or set the timing. Pull you r #1 spark plug and put it into its wire, then ground it to bare metal and turn the engine over. You should see a spark at the plug. If so follow the instruct
  11. I vote for dual 1 3/4" SUs - the British ones, or the Z Hitachis. You get better throttle response than any Webers made, and power is good through 6k. They're also very easy to set up and maintain with a far shorter learning curve than a dual DCOE setup.
  12. Pertronix has a growing reputation for diminishing quality (I'm trying to be nice about it.) Hotspark is a brand put on a very cheap Chinese EI, that I can purchase for just a few $s each - and the quality is marginal. If you insist on going electronic, get the Matchbox distributor, feed a 1.5 Ohm coil with full battery voltage, and gap your plugs at .040". It'll outlast any other option tenfold.
  13. I can say for sure that the early vents adding cooling in the winter and increased wind noise. They are very functional and still in place in the truck we race at Bonneville, per the rules plus they keep the cab cooler. You won't be able to add them as dummies, as they attach by inserting into a hole in the body and sit a bit recessed.
  14. The "risk of failure" as your instructions state, is no different with a single or dual master, but the risk of not having brakes after you develop a system leak is significantly higher. Master cylinder failure on a new unit can happen no matter what style of master. They're using semantics to make a false argument. They're saying the master isn't any more likely to have a seal fail because it only has one circuit, which is true, but it leaves the system compromised because one seal failure causes a complete braking system failure. In a dual system, 2 seals have to fail to compromise the
  15. Running too rich gives you a lopey idle that people can mistake for a bigger cam. Removing the MAF should make the engine go rich, as a safety measure, so having the engine run leaner when you remove it tells me either its calibrated wrong or wired wrong. Or your ignition isn't up to par, causing your rich mixture? High resistance plug wires? What do they Ohm at? Cheap replacement coil packs? You probably know this but if not, the shielding wires need to only be grounded on one end, and need to stay very clear of other wiring connections. Bare wires in the ignition can
  16. Sick build!!! 👌 Pierce Manifolds in CA is a Weber specialist, but they may have your jets.
  17. A vacuum leak allows air in to replace what should be your fuel mixture, so the engine goes lean. Then it diesels and stalls. Fix ALL the vacuum leaks before starting the engine again, or you WILL be pulling the head soon. A loose rocker is what you were supposed to be looking for when you pulled the valve cover. Get a manual and read it until you understand what to look for. If you're looking at parts that you can't identify and don't know why they are there, what are you expecting to find? Start by figuring out "valve lash" and what lash pads are.
  18. Its possible that your new MAF pinout is different from the old one? Eliminating it shouldn't result in better running unless either its bad, or wired wrong.
  19. Maybe remove the spark plugs to see if one or more are fouled? Start with the easy stuff first and assume total chaos last? Maybe your first step should be to buy a shop manual. The diagnostic sections are very helpful and its a good investment for some day when you WILL need to remove the head.
  20. And the same for the plug wires. Measure end to end. If the meter is set too low, it'll read as an open circuit.
  21. I'm using a mix of whatever was left over from the 6 or 8 sets I've purchased in the last 3 years, plus a Nismo head gasket. I just glue them up good. The old Blue rear main seal is the best fitting one - the orange ones are a loose fit in comparison, but they work. I think what I have laying around now is ITM, Mahle, 1 set with an eagle on the package not made in USA, and a long missing brand I can't recall. I just buy whatever RockAuto has, hopefully with the square port exhaust gaskets. They're getting more difficult to find.
  22. I have an HKS set here. They're ok. I won't call it a sub-par set but its definitely not a premium set. It'll keep the oil in, most of it anyway. Duax, I talked to one of the the Cometic guys at PRI last Winter who said he'd make sure that if I sent in a gasket, they could modify their 6 cylinder platform and make it work for the L20b. New production technology, so its worth a shot. They definitely want to expand their product line!
  23. Take out those resistor plugs. The R means there's a 5000 Ohm resistor in each plug. You do NOT want that. I'd speculate your plug wires have another 7000 Ohms each or more. You want a total of 2000 Ohm or less between the plugs and wires, per cylinder.
  24. The heater hose outlet on the back of the head, opposite side works perfectly for this. Enough coolant flows through that hose to push coolant through the back of the head, tested and proven at Bonneville. Don't heat the intake. That's a fine band-aid for stock smog engine, but there are so many better ways to deal with carburetion. DO NOT overtighten fittings on the T-stat housing or it WILL crack, especially when you start making the holes bigger. If it needs repair, get it welded and start over. $30 project. Glad to see you finally came to your senses abo
  25. Cometic will make head gaskets if you send them a sample to work with. With boost, this is possible but as has already been said, it won't hold up long. I can attest the oil pump drive gear won't last long, so plan on dry sump. The cam towers , well, you're going to want a few spares. Ceramic coat everything internal to prevent meltdown. Buy better rods than Pauter, or get them resized before install. Don't stick with stock rod journals if you;re ordering everything else custom. Pick a common journal size that allows you to get 2 or 3 sizes of quality race bearings - like ACL in a
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