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Everything posted by distributorguy

  1. Hey Turbosauce, "I don't think anyone commenting has an idea how to build a certified cage cause for one your main hoop must be one piece." Ummmm.... mine is certified for 200 mph+ at Bonneville... Must be junk because your guy didn't build it? They refuse NHRA and NASCAR cages because they aren't safe enough without modifications. Yours wouldn't pass either. There are different rules for different types of racing. Street is altogether different and doesn't need to meet any rule book, but does need to be made safely. To weld the top of the cage, drop it through holes in the floor, then lift it back up onto plate or boxes to fit the body. I still wouldn't fit a cage to a street truck, unless you're 5'2" tall or shorter, or you have an extended cab.
  2. You don't need new springs. The spring tabs are adjustable, and the originals will actually perform well if you clean up the weights and make sure there's no grease on them.
  3. The Jegs Ford Ranger cage is a good place to start, but will require 4x6 mounting plates to the cab floor/sills along with a lot of custom trimming, coping, etc... I tied mine into the frame directly, along with adding 2 rear points, helmet restraint, etc... For a street vehicle you'll find that an adequate cage not only takes up precious real estate, but if not done properly can cause more harm than good.
  4. $250 for a used core is very high. I used to buy them used for $30. But then again I charge $200 for rebuilds, and that's cheap compared to a few other REAL vendors who actually rebuild them, not just clean and reassemble - there's a huge difference in how well your truck will run and how long it lasts.
  5. Mike, you're one of those guys who just keeps spouting BS with which you have limited experience. Provide proof for what you're saying. Show me how a Pertronix can "shut off" outside signals in their circuitry - or any other brand. To say that no one uses points is idiotic. About 60% of classic cars still use points, and that number is growing as people learn and compare. No electronic ignition is "smart enough" to reject signals that appear correct. None of them. Dwell time is just the "dead time" when they would normally receive no signal. It doesn't mean they can't receive a signal. They can and they do. Especially Pertronix and Crane/FAST. They have virtually no shielding. They can be overridden by a stronger outside signal. The early version of the Matchbox is similar. The later version has the best shielding, but has a stack of its own problems negotiating low and high speed signals due to latency issues but makes a great daily driver setup. ALL electronics will underperform a set of properly adjusted points, so if you're looking for the best system that needs annual maintenance (not weekly or monthly but annual) points is it. A typical set of points lasts 30k miles with about 5-6 filing and adjustment sessions to keep it working at its best. Always set the gap to the high side of the adjustment range, let it wear to the low side of the adjustment range, and if you're smart you'll cheat each setting by 1 thou. That gets you into a 7k mile interval between services. All I've done for the last 14 years is this. Ignition systems. 40-70 hours a week every week. After about the first 10 times seeing this issue at the chassis dyno (the engine bay provides a Faraday cage that the engine dyno doesn't) you start to see a trend. Its consistent and irrefutable. Its easy to solve, and it happens consistently. After seeing it 50+ times, it becomes a standard tuning scenario. After 100+ times its old news and you start fixing it before the first pull. How many times have you been to the dyno Mike??? What do you use to diagnose misfires? Your ears? A test light?
  6. There is a constant low voltage signal pulsing on and off hundreds of times per second through the module and its wiring, and the retroactive pulse of high voltage power through the plug wires can send a false signal to the "inert???" module, similar enough to what it sees from flying magnets to cause it to fire again, between "planned" pulses. The magnetic field that builds inside the distributor builds up until the misfire occurs - maybe after every 100-200 cylinder fires. The coil can discharge when its not supposed to, resulting in a weak spark (undercharged coil) the next time its supposed to fire. Call it bullshit, but what happens on the chassis dyno is real. It results in an average of 7-10 hp loss on ANY 4 cylinder at ANY level of build. You can see the misfires in the air/fuel mixture. It goes away when you use points, which is why we deliberately chose to use points through 9600 rpm, successfully. I have thousands and thousands of happy customers who now understand why and how points are better than electronics inside a distributor. Move the electronics somewhere else, (crank fired ignition), and electronics become superior to points, in most cases but not all. I've spent thousands of my own hard earned $$$$s to learn how to avoid misfires, and pass on this information to those who are willing to listen. I'd make more money selling electronics, but they don't offer the best drivability, unless you're trying to use a clapped out pile of crap distributor. In that case you can mask some of the issues with the fixed dwell of electronics, at the expense of EMI/RFI induced misfires.
  7. And your electronic ignition.
  8. The only reason the "matchbox" distributor runs better than the points distributor is the advance curve it has. Its closer to ideal. When you put the Matchbox timing curve into an early points distributor, the points will outperform the electronics. Dyno proven, repeatedly. Getting the timing right is far more important than what trigger you use, then it comes down to reliability and consistency. Electronics next to spark plug wires inherently have misfire issues. Ask any electrical engineer - or any electrical hobbyist for that matter. Low voltage signals are always affected by adjacent high voltage wires, unless you can gain ample separation AND shielding. My happiest customers are the ones I talked out of electronics. Over fifteen thousand of them. No joke. The other few thousand can't or don't know how to adjust points.
  9. To answer the initial question, Mallory was bought out by MSD about 3 years ago. A year later MSD was acquired by Holley. At that point Holley retired the Mallory brand. Any parts you find now are either defective or Chinese knock-offs of the originals, not the same quality and they weren't known for great quality to start with. Mallory distributors were always designed to be race distributors - meaning they need to be rebuilt or at least recurved annually to continue to run well. The OEM Hitachi distributor was always a more robust unit, and can be made to outperform any aftermarket distributor AND last years and years without any more than an occasional points adjustment. The fact that we ran a single point OEM Hitachi distributor at the Bonneville salt flats turning nearly 10,000 rpm run after run for 3 years is testament to their durability.
  10. I ran into this at Bonneville: take apart the connector at the side of the distributor where the wires hook up. Throw away the corroded screw and nut after you go to the hardware store and buy brand new ones. If you get a flashing test light at the negative side of the coil while cranking, and the cap, rotor, and plug wires are all in their correct places, the only thing left is to check and or set the timing. Pull you r #1 spark plug and put it into its wire, then ground it to bare metal and turn the engine over. You should see a spark at the plug. If so follow the instructions below. If not, you still have a points issue. Scroll down to "setting timing in a disturbed engine" http://advanceddistributors.com/wordpress1/links/ There's a lot of advice on this page that's come from decades of research rather than decades of myths. With all this info, anyone should be able to get any engine running on points.
  11. I vote for dual 1 3/4" SUs - the British ones, or the Z Hitachis. You get better throttle response than any Webers made, and power is good through 6k. They're also very easy to set up and maintain with a far shorter learning curve than a dual DCOE setup.
  12. Pertronix has a growing reputation for diminishing quality (I'm trying to be nice about it.) Hotspark is a brand put on a very cheap Chinese EI, that I can purchase for just a few $s each - and the quality is marginal. If you insist on going electronic, get the Matchbox distributor, feed a 1.5 Ohm coil with full battery voltage, and gap your plugs at .040". It'll outlast any other option tenfold.
  13. I can say for sure that the early vents adding cooling in the winter and increased wind noise. They are very functional and still in place in the truck we race at Bonneville, per the rules plus they keep the cab cooler. You won't be able to add them as dummies, as they attach by inserting into a hole in the body and sit a bit recessed.
  14. The "risk of failure" as your instructions state, is no different with a single or dual master, but the risk of not having brakes after you develop a system leak is significantly higher. Master cylinder failure on a new unit can happen no matter what style of master. They're using semantics to make a false argument. They're saying the master isn't any more likely to have a seal fail because it only has one circuit, which is true, but it leaves the system compromised because one seal failure causes a complete braking system failure. In a dual system, 2 seals have to fail to compromise the whole system, and that's truly rare. Racing Bonneville, we have the option of running only front or rear brakes, mostly to reduce drag. If you wander through the pits, the most common master cylinder you'll see is a dual-circuit Wilwood, the one you can pick up for $200. Its what I installed in my truck, for the safety of the driver. A single master may be smaller and lighter, but it also has to provide ALL the fluid for your braking system through a single circuit. 2 circuits double the amount of fluid you can provide to the calipers by effectively pumping fluid through 2 separate ports/chambers/circuits. 2 circuits give you a functional "back-up system". 2 circuits allow you to run a lot more fluid and help prevent fluid boiling if you brake hard. Eliminating the booster in a boosted system results in a very hard pedal feel, ask me how I know. Most power brake systems have a 4:1 pedal ratio, while non-power systems are near 7:1, meaning the pedal itself amplifies the power you put into it. 100 lbs of pressure from your leg applies 700 lbs of pressure to the pushrod in the master. At the very least, you'll want to modify the master cylinder attachment point at the pedal to improve the pedal ratio to closer to 6:1 as a minimum. I've driven my truck with no booster and the stock pedal ratio. I feared for the lives of anyone near me. Completely unsafe, since it could never have stopped in the same distance as the soccer moms on the road ahead of me. I can't leg press 1200 lbs anymore, and the effective pedal pressure required to stop in a hurry at 4:1 is over 600 lbs, with a stock or larger sized master cylinder. The emergency brake isn't designed to stop the truck at speed. Its there to keep the truck from rolling when parked. It only provides 30-ish % of your braking, since there's no weight over those braking wheels. They'll just skid and slide, and once you lock them up, its time consuming to get them to release. Even our race truck with 54% rear weight bias stops like shit and skids when only using the rear brakes, despite switching to what's essentially a high-traction snow tire. I can also tell you that in many states (all the ones with inspections), it is illegal to downgrade to a single master cylinder. They were outlawed in production cars for a reason. A single leak anywhere results in no brakes. A leak in one line of a dual-system leaves you with half a system AND your emergency brake, so you can stop safely.
  15. Running too rich gives you a lopey idle that people can mistake for a bigger cam. Removing the MAF should make the engine go rich, as a safety measure, so having the engine run leaner when you remove it tells me either its calibrated wrong or wired wrong. Or your ignition isn't up to par, causing your rich mixture? High resistance plug wires? What do they Ohm at? Cheap replacement coil packs? You probably know this but if not, the shielding wires need to only be grounded on one end, and need to stay very clear of other wiring connections. Bare wires in the ignition can be causing your whole problem. Looking at your MAF connector tells me you need to completely rewire this thing to get it to run properly. Sorry but that harness is a mess, and the wiring is likely the cause of your issues. Its these hidden problems that give false signals. Visually inspect and "wiggle test" each wire. Or build a Microsquirt system with a new harness and switch to a generic MAP sensor. Maybe $450 and you'll be up and running?
  16. Sick build!!! 👌 Pierce Manifolds in CA is a Weber specialist, but they may have your jets.
  17. A vacuum leak allows air in to replace what should be your fuel mixture, so the engine goes lean. Then it diesels and stalls. Fix ALL the vacuum leaks before starting the engine again, or you WILL be pulling the head soon. A loose rocker is what you were supposed to be looking for when you pulled the valve cover. Get a manual and read it until you understand what to look for. If you're looking at parts that you can't identify and don't know why they are there, what are you expecting to find? Start by figuring out "valve lash" and what lash pads are.
  18. Its possible that your new MAF pinout is different from the old one? Eliminating it shouldn't result in better running unless either its bad, or wired wrong.
  19. Maybe remove the spark plugs to see if one or more are fouled? Start with the easy stuff first and assume total chaos last? Maybe your first step should be to buy a shop manual. The diagnostic sections are very helpful and its a good investment for some day when you WILL need to remove the head.
  20. And the same for the plug wires. Measure end to end. If the meter is set too low, it'll read as an open circuit.
  21. I'm using a mix of whatever was left over from the 6 or 8 sets I've purchased in the last 3 years, plus a Nismo head gasket. I just glue them up good. The old Blue rear main seal is the best fitting one - the orange ones are a loose fit in comparison, but they work. I think what I have laying around now is ITM, Mahle, 1 set with an eagle on the package not made in USA, and a long missing brand I can't recall. I just buy whatever RockAuto has, hopefully with the square port exhaust gaskets. They're getting more difficult to find.
  22. I have an HKS set here. They're ok. I won't call it a sub-par set but its definitely not a premium set. It'll keep the oil in, most of it anyway. Duax, I talked to one of the the Cometic guys at PRI last Winter who said he'd make sure that if I sent in a gasket, they could modify their 6 cylinder platform and make it work for the L20b. New production technology, so its worth a shot. They definitely want to expand their product line!
  23. Take out those resistor plugs. The R means there's a 5000 Ohm resistor in each plug. You do NOT want that. I'd speculate your plug wires have another 7000 Ohms each or more. You want a total of 2000 Ohm or less between the plugs and wires, per cylinder.
  24. The heater hose outlet on the back of the head, opposite side works perfectly for this. Enough coolant flows through that hose to push coolant through the back of the head, tested and proven at Bonneville. Don't heat the intake. That's a fine band-aid for stock smog engine, but there are so many better ways to deal with carburetion. DO NOT overtighten fittings on the T-stat housing or it WILL crack, especially when you start making the holes bigger. If it needs repair, get it welded and start over. $30 project. Glad to see you finally came to your senses about the coolant sensor. If you want detailed photos of what we're doing with the race motor for cooling/plumbing/efi/etc... its all street-worthy and I'd be happy to text or email you details. 612-804-5543
  25. Cometic will make head gaskets if you send them a sample to work with. With boost, this is possible but as has already been said, it won't hold up long. I can attest the oil pump drive gear won't last long, so plan on dry sump. The cam towers , well, you're going to want a few spares. Ceramic coat everything internal to prevent meltdown. Buy better rods than Pauter, or get them resized before install. Don't stick with stock rod journals if you;re ordering everything else custom. Pick a common journal size that allows you to get 2 or 3 sizes of quality race bearings - like ACL in a +1, +10, +20 or you'll need a new crank on each rebuild because cheap rod bearings will last minutes not days. 180-200 hp NA is "easy" and can be built to be streetable, then add 40 lbs of boost... This could be a really fun, drivable street engine. Mike should drive my race truck so he can see how streetable it could be. The only thing temperamental about the whole truck is the driver with the limited visibility from the race seat and cage.
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