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Distributor rotors


Datsundude123

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OK people. this coil in post #305 right above will work.. Its a Accell super stock which is 1.5 i think and thats a ballast Im hoping stock also.

 

Datsundude if thats the setup you have right there in above photo it should work. only thing is ck that the white wire with the blk stripe is + coil.

 

where the 2 wires meet at the ballast 1 is the hot STARTwire(Blu with blk stripe) then it feeds to the + side coil.

the otherside is the wht/blk wire is the ignition key ON wire. when motor is ruunning the 12volts goes thru the ballast then to the + side coil.

 

the blue wire from - side coil goes to the points(distributor).when points close the coil charges up. Points Open the coil discharges to the correct plug wire to fire the cylinder

 

OK now Im kinda pisst here. You said you got spark awhile ago. So to me its working. I said to check from the center coil wire(unplug form the distributor cap) and place near chassis and hit Key to START. Now if you get good snapping spark then your ignition and coil is fine.  If not then you have a issue. If sparks OK then you move to the next step of of fire order on your distributor, spark plugs, plugwires in right spot. bad plugs. bad valve lash , no gas ect.....

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OK people. this coil in post #305 right above will work.. Its a Accell super stock which is 1.5 i think and thats a ballast Im hoping stock also.

 

Datsundude if thats the setup you have right there in above photo it should work. only thing is ck that the white wire with the blk stripe is + coil.

 

where the 2 wires meet at the ballast 1 is the hot STARTwire(Blu with blk stripe) then it feeds to the + side coil.

the otherside is the wht/blk wire is the ignition key ON wire. when motor is ruunning the 12volts goes thru the ballast then to the + side coil.

 

the blue wire from - side coil goes to the points(distributor).when points close the coil charges up. Points Open the coil discharges to the correct plug wire to fire the cylinder

 

OK now Im kinda pisst here. You said you got spark awhile ago. So to me its working. I said to check from the center coil wire(unplug form the distributor cap) and place near chassis and hit Key to START. Now if you get good snapping spark then your ignition and coil is fine. If not then you have a issue. If sparks OK then you move to the next step of of fire order on your distributor, spark plugs, plugwires in right spot. bad plugs. bad valve lash , no gas ect.....

I am getting spark but it's pretty weak! I just wanted to make sure.

 

Thanks

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OK people. this coil in post #305 right above will work.. Its a Accell super stock which is 1.5 i think and thats a ballast Im hoping stock also.

 

 

 

Actually the Accell yellow coil is 3 Ohms (every one I have ever seen and I do this for a living), which is why I said you have to bypass the resistor, about 300 posts ago.  But go ahead and run it with the ballast.  It might still start.  But why am I even typing anything at all?  You're going to lose interest and stop reading half way through anyway, then do whatever you want.  If you would have followed my timing info a while back it would already be running.  Proof again that you don't read posts or follow through with any of the info you asked for.  

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Actually the Accell yellow coil is 3 Ohms (every one I have ever seen and I do this for a living), which is why I said you have to bypass the resistor, about 300 posts ago. But go ahead and run it with the ballast. It might still start. But why am I even typing anything at all? You're going to lose interest and stop reading half way through anyway, then do whatever you want. If you would have followed my timing info a while back it would already be running. Proof again that you don't read posts or follow through with any of the info you asked for.

 

I'm not going to run it with the resistor!!! That's why I asked how to bypass it.

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You can never have both sides of the coil hooked to the same terminal anywhere, ever.

And its a 3 Ohm coil. It needs no additional resistor. We went over this explicitly about 15 pages ago.

You're wrong! I posted a picture of my coil and resistor and no one replied to it cause they were to busy helping other people in my thread lol

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Accell super stock 8140 coil = 1.4 ohms.  Per Summit specs listed

 

 

I used to run one.

 

 

what you have is CORRECT

 

 

If you want to BYPASS the resistor. all you do is unscrew the blk / white wire and screw it to the top of the ballast resisitor where the 2 other wires are at. so all 3 wires are together.

 

Then youll get BIG spark for about 8 mins till the points ARCH out and FRY your points and saturate the condensor. 

 

 

re read my last big post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Accell super stock 8140 coil = 1.4 ohms. Per Summit specs listed

 

 

I used to run one.

 

 

what you have is CORRECT

 

 

If you want to BYPASS the resistor. all you do is unscrew the blk / white wire and screw it to the top of the ballast resisitor where the 2 other wires are at. so all 3 wires are together.

 

Then youll get BIG spark for about 8 mins till the points ARCH out and FRY your points and saturate the condensor.

 

 

re read my last big post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok and when I was running this set up I was turning the truck over for a few seconds and the coil got super hot

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Alright so I was messing around with my coil and trying a few other universal coils that were in a couple other cars and I figured out my coil is A1!

 

I was then replacing the points in my distributor and I realized that the lobes are worn down a shit ton and the only reason the points were opening before I took them out is because they were set in the distributor all wierd.

 

I'm just going to buy a new OEM 77 620 distributor

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Datsundude, I rebuild 1500+ distributors a year, all hardcore custom stuff.  Never and I mean NEVER have I seen a point cam worn out.  They are induction hardened and simply DO NOT wear out.  How is a piece of plastic rubbing on hardened steel going to wear out the steel?  Its not.  

 

I was wrong - the yellow coils are 1.4 Ohms, or .7 Ohms depending on the model number.  There used to be a 3 Ohm version.  In fact, it was the only one I could get locally and I installed many.  It appears now that Accel is owned by Holley, things are changing.  Again.  After being owned by MSD, prior to being owned by a few different small conglomerates.  

So in short, wire it per original with the ballast resistor in place.  Or learn to use an Ohm meter and how to read a wiring diagram.  Or bypass the resistor and install the matchbox distributor.  It won't matter anyway - this isn't your problem.  Your timing is set wrong.  

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DatsuNissan Love must have meant Coil. Cause a Distributor from aToyota isnt going to work and a 73-75 is a point system so the Coils most likely the same

 

 

I agree with distributorguy.

Anyways when you put the Key in Start your bypassing the resisitor anyways. so you should get twice the Spark as the resistor is bypassed. So stop thinkign of that!!!!!!!!!

 

Now Accel coils the superstock ones are now made in China. But really they are pretty simple systems and cant see them go bad.

How ever if the points are closed and you have the key ON for a long time I guess the coil can get hot. But Im guessing on this.

IS THIS A STOCK BALLAST RESISTOR???????

 

I never seen the point lobes wear down. Maybe on the fonelic block on the points and this can be adjusted to get the points to open the correct amount. say .020.

 

 

you better take more photos. And take good one of the actual part you working on, Not my car dont run and you show a motor in pieces with the head off.

 

 

Comes down to it you wanted a distributor in the first place as the beginning of this thread.

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