Distributor rotors

[DatsuNissanLove]

Sorry I did mean coil... all this distributor this distributor that got me going craaazzzyyyy!!!... I'm having nightmares of this shit lol..

[distributorguy]

Wiring on any of these is simple.  Power to the + terminal on the coil.  Negative coil terminal to points at the distributor.  If its electronic, positive and negative go to the distributor and if you hook it up backward, no spark (and no damage).  

 

As for ballast, the Low voltage side of the coil, referred to as Low Tension (LT) needs 3 Ohms resistance for most 4 cylinder applications.  That can be 1.5 from the coil + 1.5 from a ballast resistor, 3 Ohms from the coil, or any arrangement you can assemble.  Battery voltage into the system, no more than .5V lost from the battery to your power wire, prior to the resistors or you should start cleaning connections upstream.  

High output electronic ignitions like the Matchbox 1980 type system need a 1.5 Ohm coil, no ballast resistor to run well.  They won't burn out.  They actually run better with no ballast resistor and about .040" plug gap rather than the traditional .025" for points.  

 

On the High Tension (HT) side, aka plug wires, cap, and rotor, you can run anywhere from 0 Ohms resistance with points to 800-5000 Ohms resistance with electronics, per wire.  Get outside those parameters and it'll run, just not up to par and you'll experience loss of power or an overheating coil.    

[Datsundude123]

 

 

Here you go! I got a few pictures.

[Datsundude123]

[banzai510(hainz)]

just by looking at it it needs to be adjusted. The lobes are fine.

 

wheres the lock down screws?????  You see the 2 threaded holes???? maybe they fell inside the distributor. But since this might take another 17 pages on how to dissasemble that just find soem screws

 

the slotted screw head is the adjuster. turn this when the point lobe is at its high point with the rubbing bar. adjust to to .020. then youll lock down the points with the 2 missing screws and the washers that hold it

 

 

17pages later you got it.

[Datsundude123]

just by looking at it it needs to be adjusted. The lobes are fine.

 

wheres the lock down screws????? You see the 2 threaded holes???? maybe they fell inside the distributor. But since this might take another 17 pages on how to dissasemble that just find soem screws

 

the slotted screw head is the adjuster. turn this when the point lobe is at its high point with the rubbing bar. adjust to to .020. then youll lock down the points with the 2 missing screws and the washers that hold it

 

 

17pages later you got it.

 

Wow!! It a good thing I've got the screws sitting on my table.

[Datsundude123]

When I adjust them they don't open wide enough for .020

[datzenmike]

 

 

Turn the engine so that the black rubbing block on the points is riding on the highest part of one of the bumps or lobes on the spindle.Turn that screw in the slot. It's an eccentric and will move the points closer to the spindle with the 4 bumps on it.   Keep moving it to the right until the points open to 0.022" or so. If they won't open enough, get a new set of points.

 

 

 

Jesus fucking christ! One picture is worth a thousand fucking words or 330 posts!!!!!!!.

[Datsundude123]

 

 

Turn the engine so that the black rubbing block on the points is riding on the highest part of one of the bumps or lobes on the spindle.Turn that screw in the slot. It's an eccentric and will move the points closer to the spindle with the 4 bumps on it. Keep moving it to the right until the points open to 0.022" or so. If they won't open enough, get a new set of points.

 

 

 

Jesus fucking christ! One picture is worth a thousand fucking words or 330 posts!!!!!!!.

 

They are brand new

 

But it won't even open up to .018

[datzenmike]

Better post a picture of the maximum open setting. The last two pictures moved us forward more than all the talking.

[flatcat19]

Smh.

[Datsundude123]

Better post a picture of the maximum open setting. The last two pictures moved us forward more than all the talking.

 

Alright I will tomorrow

[banzai510(hainz)]

You might have to slot the adjustement hole more to get what you need or buy another brand of points if you say you cant get even .018

[distributorguy]

You don't have a clue do you?  Open a manual and read how to adjust points.  Seriously.  Put the screws back in, loosely.  Turn the slotted screw until the rubbing block touches the cam.  Then set it so that at maximum lift (when the points open the farthest) you have your .020".  Look at how far the open screw hole is from the end of its adjustment.  You have a  MILE of space to play with.  Read a book.  It won't hurt if you would even take a moment to look at the pictures.  

 

And start by removing the points and cleaning them.  How the hell did you get ANY spark???  You got spark because you screwed up the gap when you removed the screws.  It was adjusted until you did that.  

[Datsundude123]

You don't have a clue do you? Open a manual and read how to adjust points. Seriously. Put the screws back in, loosely. Turn the slotted screw until the rubbing block touches the cam. Then set it so that at maximum lift (when the points open the farthest) you have your .020". Look at how far the open screw hole is from the end of its adjustment. You have a MILE of space to play with. Read a book. It won't hurt if you would even take a moment to look at the pictures.

 

And start by removing the points and cleaning them. How the hell did you get ANY spark??? You got spark because you screwed up the gap when you removed the screws. It was adjusted until you did that.

Why would I clean the points?? They are already clean lmao

 

 

And I've already tried what you are telling me to do!

[distributorguy]

LMAO???   You're an idiot who can't take simple directions.  They are corroded.  I can see it in the photos.  If it gave you sparks before, they were gapped in the ballpark.  

 

See the distance between the screw hole and the inside of the "U" shaped groove in the points?  Its greater than the distance between the rubbing block on the points and the point cam.  That means you have WAY more than enough room to make your adjustment.  Been there, done that in excess of 100,000 times.  No joke.  Built 9 points distributors today, none as easy as yours.  

[Datsundude123]

LMAO??? You're an idiot who can't take simple directions. They are corroded. I can see it in the photos. If it gave you sparks before, they were gapped in the ballpark.

 

See the distance between the screw hole and the inside of the "U" shaped groove in the points? Its greater than the distance between the rubbing block on the points and the point cam. That means you have WAY more than enough room to make your adjustment. Been there, done that in excess of 100,000 times. No joke. Built 9 points distributors today, none as easy as yours.

 

The screw that adjusts the points stops before it gets to .018

[datzenmike]

w/e.... 0.018" would get the engine running.

[Datsundude123]

w/e.... 0.018" would get the engine running.

.016 hardly fits

[flatcat19]

That would still allow it to run. 

[datzenmike]

All they have to do is open to fire the coil. 0.022" is best but less will work.

[distributorguy]

I believe that's probably the case when you are not on the high area of the lobes - the low spot between.  Post a photo with the feeler gauge in place.  Typical Datsun points will open to .050"+  

Or just go buy a new set of points.  I don't have a single core here (out of a dozen spares) that won't open past .025" using their old worn points.  

[flatcat19]

How much shorter would this thread have been had OP just bought an EI dizzy?

[Datsundude123]

How much shorter would this thread have been had OP just bought an EI dizzy?

 

A lot fuckin shorter lolol that's what I want to do but I can't find the right one and everyone is telling me I don't need and I do need one

[Datsundude123]

 

 

That's as far as they open