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Snake pit - rhino built


Rhino13

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I may take you up on that. I know one of the boots is ripped, but, I just need to get an axle in there so I can put it back together and drive it home. Not sure how long the IFS will stay. I have wheeled one of these before. My best friends dad had one. And I have wheeled a LOT of Jeeps. I want a solid axle.

The idea is to get mine to a daily driver status so I can tear my 620 apart! 

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Well I got the motor pulled out of the newer (to me) 720, just need to pull the cab and bed off and then it'll be stored all taken apart until I get the 521 running. I want to have something running when my nice 720 goes under the knife, that way I can take my time and coat the frame and undercarriage and finally go through the motor a bit to fix that rattle.

IMG_20160210_152616535_zpspmc6yisr.jpg

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What are you doing with the engine?

Putting together an lz22 for the 521! Once that's running and driving I'm going to do the body swap to put my black truck on the 4x4 frame. If I'm going to have 3 trucks, at least one of them has to run haha

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Well the truck has been doing great lately, but today I was beating on it a little and the clutch started slipping really bad. I really don't have the time to do it right now, but luckily the mechanic right across from my work owes my boss some work (different guy from the machinist that owes my boss work) and can do my clutch for me. The one that was on the z22 from that newer to me 720 is in good shape so I'll be throwing that in there for now.

 

I plan on turning my attention more towards this once the 521 is up and running. I want to pull the motor and freshen it up, get a new clutch, replace all fuel and brake lines, do the brakes, and remove all the unnecessary parts. Once all of that is done it should be reliable enough to take anywhere. It's hard to trust on long distances knowing a lot of the parts are still stock.

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The truck is getting a clutch kit done either Saturday or Sunday! Now the truck is getting harder to start and running like crap until it's warm though, so I really need to figure that out. Could the clutch going out have put stress on something and caused an issue? It takes a few tries to start, before it'd start on the first turn every time. It idles really rough until it's warm and acts like it's going to die if I give it too much gas, before it was very responsive to the gas pedal at any point of running. I checked for vacuum leaks, checked the adjustments on the carb, unplugged the choke to see if that helped and nothing seems to change it.

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Driving into work it felt like whenever the secondaries opened, it would fall on its face. What would cause that? If I speed up nice and slow and don't put my foot into it the clutch almost seems fine, but if I get on it, it falls on its face and feels like it's slipping like crazy.

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Well I got the motor pulled out of the newer (to me) 720, just need to pull the cab and bed off and then it'll be stored all taken apart until I get the 521 running. I want to have something running when my nice 720 goes under the knife, that way I can take my time and coat the frame and undercarriage and finally go through the motor a bit to fix that rattle.

IMG_20160210_152616535_zpspmc6yisr.jpg

 

Engine mount on upside down.....

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Engine mount on upside down.....

It only had one bolt so it flipped over once it was off the frame.

 

 

I have a short day tomorrow so I'm going to try to take the carb apart before the meet and dinner with everyone coming to town. I really hope it's just a clogged jet!

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Could also be one of the filters you have ...OR .... you crappy luck with fuel pumps continues !

I'm going to do some assessment after work today. The fuel pump sounds like it's pumping fine, but who knows. It really does seem carb related because it eventually does idle fine and drives pretty well until the secondary opens, then game over.

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Well I looked into the Weber a bit, the little diaphragm with the spring on the rod was holding almost no vacuum so I replaced that with a new one I had. the choke arm has loosened itself to the point of almost falling off, so tightened that up and actually wired in the choke. When I wired in the choke I just put it through the old 6 prong plug that used to go to the stock carb. I have my fuel pump running through that from a previous owner because of relay issues. When I plugged the choke into it the fuel pump stopped working and now neither will the choke. The float was also way off so I adjusted that and replaced the needle. Any ideas on how to get power back to that 6 prong plug for the stock carb? All fuses are good, I cleaned them and put them back in to be sure.

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Well I got it running again, but I just hard wired the fuel pump to a switch with a fuse for now so I can at least drive it. I'm getting the new clutch on Saturday and I may just ask the guy doing the job to look it over and see if he can figure it out.

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Well the clutch is being done today, when I dropped the truck off I mentioned to my mechanic that it had been losing power almost like the secondary isn't opening even though I can watch it open under the hood. He listened to it and obviously noticed the timing chain sound and said there's some kind of valve noise coming from the exhaust side above cylinder 2 or 3, like I thought I had been hearing. He said it's possible that the chain is so loose at this point it's causing the timing to jump and not able to be consistent. He's going to throw a light on it and look into the valve noise in the head. He said he'll keep doing work for the price of parts, so I'll maybe see about them just doing the timing set for me and letting me come help out.

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Alright well the clutch was done and it drives a lot smoother, the shaking in 3rd I thought was from the driveshaft is gone. The pilot bearing had just under an 1/8 inch of play, it was crazy they got it out it was so thin. The fins on the pressure plate were pushed out a bit somehow and making the throwout bearing never fully disengage.

 

Although it drives much smoother, it's still running pretty bad and not getting nearly the power it had. I can rev it by hand and watch the secondaries open, so I know that's not it. I'm thinking it might be my timing chain causing the timing to be inconsistent that's causing it to get worse, it's been losing power over the past few months and the rattling is much louder than it was when I got it.

 

I'm debating whether I should put the lz22 I'm building in this and take my time with the 521. Then I don't have to take it apart as a running truck to make it safer down the road later on. I talked to the guy that did my clutch about helping me build my lz but only working on it with me so I know the motor. He is mainly a Toyota guy, but he's rebuilt a few vg's and currently has a ka24e in his shop. He said to bring it over whenever and we'll get the parts ordered wholesale from his distributor in Japan. So I can potentially have this thing going in a month if I work on it during my weekends.

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It says it used the same with the l20b but that would mean it would sit at the same angle as the z motor, which should make clearance hard for the intake and exhaust against the master cylinder and possibly steering column.

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The 1980 5speed tranny should be the same one as 78-79 620

   The 1981 and up "longtail" 5speed trannys are the same as 78-80 but with a bellhousing that fits a NapZ engine.. 

 

Only talking about outside dimensions not inside gearing as i know shit about that,, but those should be close enough for rock n roll.

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That's what I thought. So to set the lz in its proper position I'd need the get one with an L series bell housing. I'm getting the one off the Canby truck from jrock, speaking of that I need to go put cash in my bank to send him so Kevin can pick it up for me.

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