datzenmike Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hot yes. This is where the engine runs the most. The cold adjustment assumes everything warms and expands to the correct lash. Cold is more for when putting the valve train together. Better to check when warm. It's easy enough on a hot engine set to TDC do.... both Int. Ext. #1, Int. #2, Ext. #3 Turn ONE turn back up to TDC and adjust Ext.#2, Int. #3 and both Int. and Ex. #4 This allows all valves to be adjusted withonly one turn of the engine and without constant bumping of the starter, and gets the job done before the engine cools. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 The Z24 exhaust manifold is prone to cracking. I have had to replace 3 of them on different trucks. I have been buying replacements from Rock Auto. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Thanks Mike, I'll see if a valve adjustment helps with any of the noise, I'm sure it will run better if anything! I haven't noticed any cracks Charlie, but I also haven't inspected it for any. I ran a small amount of sea foam through it mainly to check for exhaust leaks and noticed a small leak from the gasket by cylinder #4. Good to know they have them in stock on rockauto. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Well I got the valves adjusted and its a little less noisy but still making a rattle somewhere. The timing chain feels really tight and has pretty much no play in it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Well I got the valves adjusted and its a little less noisy but still making a rattle somewhere. The timing chain feels really tight and has pretty much no play in it. Again.. welcome to my world. I've got the same problem. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Yeah what a pain in the ass. I'll see if I can get a decent sound quality video of the noise as soon as I can. It still seems loudest in the middle of the head on the driver's side. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Well I got the valves adjusted and its a little less noisy but still making a rattle somewhere. The timing chain feels really tight and has pretty much no play in it. It will seem snug because there is a chain tensioner. Rattle could be the plastic covered guides are worn. Next time in wrecking yard find a mid '90s Hardbody with KA engine. Get the oil pump and swap that in. It's high volume and gives greater idle oil pressure. 2 Quote Link to comment
DATSAN Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Replace the carpet with in-and-out carpet from a big box store for $40 a yard, and make sure you get dirt-colored carpet, and then you can forget about vacuuming (until it starts to wear through.) Nice seat! I got rid of bench years ago, it was made out of some cheap vinyl stuff and was ripped up quite a bit. I put some cloth bucket seats in from a 1980's-something Nissan Sentra, and they bolted right in! ---- lol - sorry - I'm def a newbie on this here forum stuff - I thought your comment about the carpet was just yesterday. Well, anyway... here is a pic of my seats - old and new; 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Got a video of it and it actually captured the noise pretty well 1 Quote Link to comment
DATSAN Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Definitely a metal to metal sound. Ah! I've got it - it's under the valve cover. :D But, then again, it kinda sounds like an exhaust leak. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Exhaust leak will be louder under load. You could loosen off all the belts and try it. This eliminates alternator, water pump, clutch fan bearing, fan rubbing something and the power steering pump (if one) plus all the belts and the belt tensioner. 3 Quote Link to comment
DATSAN Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 True, the exhaust would be louder under a load, but you wouldn't hear the difference inside the cab. This video only shows it running, not revving. Does it get more intense / louder, if you step on the accelerator? Otherwise, I did have the fan bearing go out once in my 720 z24, and it sounded similar. The sound was bouncing all over the place, driving me nuts for weeks. Good call, Mike. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Without reading any responses, my first thought was exhaust. Mike and Datsan have valid points. Sounds can be bounced around by the fan spinning. Take the belt/belts off and do it again. Give us a couple small throttle chops too please. BTW, sorry I missed you today while I was at Al's. I was really hoping the 3 of us could have a "safety meeting". :rofl: 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Without reading any responses, my first thought was exhaust. Mike and Datsan have valid points. Sounds can be bounced around by the fan spinning. Take the belt/belts off and do it again. Give us a couple small throttle chops too please. BTW, sorry I missed you today while I was at Al's. I was really hoping the 3 of us could have a "safety meeting". :rofl: Al needs to stop partaking in those meetings. Per Dr's orders. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Ya, he told me that too. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 I will take another video with the belts off when I get home from work today. One other thing that made the think it was the timing chain is when I cold start it there's a different noise that lasts about 3-5 seconds that sounds like metal rubbing. When it goes away it fades really fast then it's just the normal clacking heard in the video. I figured it was the timing chain being louder because it wasn't fully lubricated the first couple seconds of running. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 There is a heavier draw on the alternator just after start up. A loose belt will often squeal from this at this time. 1 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Well I just picked up another 720, most of the parts will be used towards the 521, but I'm considering putting my black 720 on the 4x4 chassis since the 521 will be lowered. Are the 2wd and 4wd frames different or could I swap front end parts and lift the rear? I have a z22 in the truck I just got so I'm assuming it's a different oil pan for the 4x4, will that swap onto a z24? Any other input on what else needs to be done is appreciated. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 The whole front suspension section of a 4wd is different, lots of welded on bits that would be difficult to replicate on a 2wd. You would be better off body swapping the 720 to the 4x4 frame and just using the 521 body on the 2wd frame. http://nissannut.com/projects/720_2wd_to_4wd_conversion/ That link covers the whole 4wd body swap as done by a guy who calls himself Nissan nut. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 I figured it would be easier to swap the body on. I may even do a prerunner style lifted 2wd because there's no front diff in that truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Nice. If you do, just keep the outer cv stub so you can bolt the hubs together. You could remove the rest of the cv completely. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 The whole front suspension section of a 4wd is different, lots of welded on bits that would be difficult to replicate on a 2wd. You would be better off body swapping the 720 to the 4x4 frame and just using the 521 body on the 2wd frame. http://nissannut.com/projects/720_2wd_to_4wd_conversion/ That link covers the whole 4wd body swap as done by a guy who calls himself Nissan nut. Nissan Nut also did a Z24I (TBI) swap write up. http://nissannut.com/projects/z24i_fuel_injection/ Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 So, you definetly picked that up from Al? Looks like he kept that bitch'n canopy. I WANT IT!!! I started to pull the front right axle. Actually, I all but pulled it. We couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing out without tearing more shit apart. It was starting to rain and I just said fuck it, lets have a meeting. I'm not rolling around under there in the soon to be mud for and axle. 2 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 So, you definetly picked that up from Al? Looks like he kept that bitch'n canopy. I WANT IT!!! I started to pull the front right axle. Actually, I all but pulled it. We couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing out without tearing more shit apart. It was starting to rain and I just said fuck it, lets have a meeting. I'm not rolling around under there in the soon to be mud for and axle. Yeah he had us move the canopy haha, that thing is nice! Well since you did most of the work getting it out you're still welcome to come get it. I plan on running it 2wd for a bit until I decided to go find all the pieces I need anyway. We should take them out once we both have running rigs! 1 Quote Link to comment
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