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Revival of the Chickenhawk...

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19 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

I've never wired something from scratch.  Just modified stock harnesses for other uses.  Scratch wiring is hardcore.  But you two tend to be pretty hardcore.


I've done the modified stock harness and installed, for lack of a better word, "Painless Style" (prewired fusebox with labeled wires somewhat bundled where they need to go) harnesses.  The worrier in me hates doing the modified stock harness (I'm relieved John sold his 1200 before THAT wiring nightmare came back to bite me!).  The prewired fusebox style is my favorite but for some reason I didn't want to go that route on this project... aaaand I just remembered what that reason was, and need to have my ass kicked.  See, this car used to have an actual Painless Wiring switch box running a lot of the vital systems.  I was going to reuse that but... well, things slowly went awry without my noticing until, literally, just now.  Ok, so I'm not the brightest elevator in the load of bricks... or something like that.

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I rewired my entire car this summer. Deutsch connectors for the entire chassis to replace all of the stock connectors (minus the ignition) and new connectors for the BMW headlights. I used Tefzel wires for the chassis and Mil-spec for the engine harness. I used all new Mitsubishi engine harness connectors as well.


It was a big job. There's no denying that. I think it was well worth it for the peace of mind and the knowledge I gained. I accidentally swapped two wires in the rear tail light on install that I was able to quickly and easily swap on a quick fuel stop. I also learned how resistant the stock harness has become. My horn was going off immediately when I finished the rewire. The new wires were so conductive that the horn button was now flowing current through the sheathing. A small issue hidden by the old wires.


I have Bussman fuse/relay panels from Waytek and micro fuses and relays to populate it. Do it for piece of mind if your harness has ever been spliced. You can also save about 5ft of wire by rerouting the rear harness to only follow the driver's side instead of crossing over at the backseat.

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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

So many colors...





Yup.  That's 1100 feet of 12 gauge and (I believe) 100 feet of 10 gauge.  I've got pink, orange, grey, white, purple, brown, blue, yellow, red, and black in 12ga as well as red and black in 10ga.  I am looking forward to getting tucked into this wiring harness build.  Wait... is "looking forward to" what I meant to say?  No, "dreading it like the plague"!  THAT'S what I meant to say!

Edited by dimlight65
Changed an "and" to "as well as" for better grammatical feng shui
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  • 1 month later...

So we were looking for a place to mount an air filter out of the elements but as high up on the car as possible. We think this will be our solution...


Step one, gut the heater box and seal up the big holes where the core was with fiberglass...





Step two, find the biggest K&N filter that will (almost) fit inside the heater box...





Reassemble box with air filter trapped inside...





Fit metal pipe to filter...






The only hole in the box now is the one that goes to the cowl intake area, so it should be a true "cold air" intake since all air will come from the cowl vents. 


Saturday we should be able to bolt it in and hook up the hose from here to the bulkhead coupler we installed in the firewall way back when...

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On 1/23/2020 at 4:03 PM, datsunfreak said:

Should be invisible once the dash is installed...  


*sigh* I was not prepared to believe that until I dropped the dash in for a look see. 


Yeah, totes invis.

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  • 1 month later...

As mentioned in the Dajiban thread, we're not going to use the light bar I bought for this project.  We are, however, going to use three sets of 5" round lights on the roof.  What we're thinking is to put three across the front of the roof rack and three across the back.  The two in the middle (one pointing forward and the other back) are just spotlights... or floodlights, I don't remember exactly but it doesn't matter.  The other four are the opposite of whatever the middles are (spot vs flood) and have amber halo fog lights.  These halos will be wired into the turn signals!  The front spot/flood combos we'll wire together, possibly with the 7" and 9" pushbar lights, while the rear facing spot/flood combos will be wired to the reverse light switch.


Oh, and I also built a mount for the fuel cell yesterday.

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So, if this thing is ever used offroad (which is not terribly likely to be brutally honest), it could get stuck somewhere (which is actually quite likely, to be brutally honest).  This epiphany got me thinking about a wench.  She used to drive her car into all kinds of... oh, wait.  The voices in my head are telling me it's the other homonym of that word: winch.  Sorry.  So I'm thinking about putting light-ish duty receiver hitches front and rear for a receiver-mounted winch.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

The fuel cell I bought for this has a screw-on cap for the filler.  The threaded portion of it is something like 2.25" in diameter.  The filler neck thingy I installed in the C-pillar, and the U-bends I bought to connect said filler to said cell, are 2".  I was thinking I would force a 2" hose over the threads and mate the tank to the filler that way.  Well yesterday I noticed a 2" tank filler plate sitting on the shelf.  I also noticed that there's plenty of room on the top of the tank to install it opposite the screw-top filler.  I rotated the tank 180 degrees and had a look.  "Yep," I says to myself, "that ort to work."  Out came the tank and I proceeded to drill six mounting holes and a big-assed filler hole in a perfectly good fuel cell.  John walked in from messing with his Galaxie, took one look at what I was up to, shook his head, and turned to walk away.  After a bit of fettling, we (he did come back in to take the tools out of my hand once he was "done" with his project for the day) managed to get the thing mounted and bolted up.  A bead of black "Gorilla Snot" to seal the questionably drilled mounting holes, and it's done.  I dropped it back in the car, rearranged the feed, return, and vent fittings and I think I'm happy with the solution.  Of course, I just realized that if the fuel is full up into the filler neck, opening the screw-top filler on the other end of the tank is going to make a hell of a mess.  Well, we'll just have to refrain from doing that, I guess.

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  • 10 months later...
On 1/30/2021 at 8:32 PM, datsunfreak said:

In the end, it was decreed that all the relays would go out here by all the stuff, whilst the fuse panel would go inside next to all the control switches...


I have drawn and re-drawn the layout of all the electrical gubbins going into this car so many times, I can do it in my sleep.  As John said (but didn't actually say now that I re-read it), we decided against using all the super cool relay boxes with integral fuses that I purchased, in favor of this much simpler solution.  Today I wired in an eight circuit fuse box just below these relays to provide fused power to all of them... and give me two spare constant-hot fused circuits for later expansion.  (John took a picture and I posted one on the Instant Grams.)


We are also ditching the rooftop lights for simplicity's sa... ok, ok!  I'll admit it.  I'm super itching to get started on my Honda N600, but John won't let me until this car is "finished."  I'm simplifying to reduce my "Whelm" level and motivate me more towards that goal.

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On 11/14/2019 at 3:04 PM, dimlight65 said:

Eleven rolls, of different colors, will be arriving next week.  THAT means in a couple months, I may start actually wiring this thing!


A couple months?  A couple years?  Meh, who's counting?  At least I AM starting on it... finally.

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