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Revival of the Chickenhawk...


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Got lots more wires added to the dash today, and the fuse box wiring is just about done. I think the gauges are up next...

 

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Also, Tim and I had been discussing brake upgrades for the car. In that vein, I picked up some aluminum 4 piston Brembos for it...

 

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And yes, we will rub off that Chevy logo...   😁

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Got more wiring done today, but we decided to pause momentarily because Tim wanted some fresh paint on the dash frame. POR-15 was deemed the most durable option, so...

 

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This is supposed to be satin black, so here's hoping it's not this glossy when it dries...   😁

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I have to stop and thank John again for all the work he does on my projects.  Thank you sir!

 

And now, wiring report.  I realized the wires I designated to go from the fuse box to the switch panel were WAY too long.  This was going to make other circuits using those same color/gauge combos impossible.  I wound up swapping out a few long wires for shorter versions.  Now the only run I'm concerned about is the "turn signal/brake light switch to right rear brake light" wire.  I think it will be long enough, but I'm just not 100% sure.  I don't want to add a splice in the middle, but will if I have to.

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20 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

This is supposed to be satin black, so here's hoping it's not this glossy when it dries...   😁

 

It does flash off to a nice satin. But...

 

Apparently POR-15 does not love UV, so I did some digging on that front. It needs some sort of topcoat for UV blockage (which they will be glad to sell you for $$$$), but several have reported excellent results from another technique. Put on a coat of POR-15, wait 30-45 minutes for it to get really tacky, then go over it with a coat (or two) of enamel. The enamel will burn into the POR-15 so that once it fully cures you get a very durable finish that is UV resistant.

 

So I did just that, one more coat of POR-15, wait 45 minutes, then 2 coats of satin black enamel...

 

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Lately we have felt like we were doing too many things out of order, so we finally sat down and made a list of what needs doing so we can do it in a more sensible order. We started with a list of everything we need to do inside the car. We first looked at everything that needs doing before it can be painted inside, and started checking things off that list.

 

First on that list was to commit to whether we wanted a hydraulic e-brake, or a factory style e-brake. 

 

After much head scratching, we settled on stock and got to work getting a little crafty. Step #1, take a torch to it...  😄

 

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Step #2, bend the left side tab down straight...

 

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Why you ask? So we can mount it here...  😁

 

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With it bolted down to the floor and the rocker, we gave it a test run...

 

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Works a treat in this spot and frees up some much needed space on the tunnel for the switch box, which is up next...   👍

 

Edited by datsunfreak
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That looks familiar.......

 

I can't remember how the 1200 is, but on my 510 wagon, mounting in the drivers side was a straight shot back and eliminated all the pulleys.  Got rid of that huge handbrake assembly as well..

 

Well done.

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9 hours ago, Duncan said:

That looks familiar.......

 

I can't remember how the 1200 is, but on my 510 wagon, mounting in the drivers side was a straight shot back and eliminated all the pulleys.  Got rid of that huge handbrake assembly as well..

 

Well done.

 

 

The 510 wagon setup is a bit different from the 1200.

 

Although, I really wish I had thought of this a couple months ago when I was trying to work out how to hook up the e-brake on my 1200 with 510 wagon diff. This would have made things much easier than what I ended up doing.

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We got the face of the dash attached "for the last time" tonight.  I used some double-sticky foam tape stuff around the edges and down the two crossbeams (which are askew on the treadle).  Hopefully that will make up for the flollopiness of the plastic.  We'll see. 

 

 

 

 

What we won't see, because nobody ever expects it, is the Spanish Inquisition!

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We had been thinking on seats, and how the ones were had were a bit too wide for what Tim wanted. As it happens, I had a pair of 1st-gen Miata seats in storage...

 

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Those fit MUCH better...

 

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And leave more room for e-brake to go here...

 

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After sussing out how to build the mounts for them, I got busy with a paint brush and some POR-15...

 

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We painted the roof and pillars, but stopped about 6" past the window line, because later the bottom half will all be covered in rhino-liner...

 

While I worked on that, Tim did some more wiring. He finished all the wires that go to the floor-mounted switch box...

 

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And the wires to this plug will be the engine bay harness eventually...

 

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It's filling up a bit in here now...   😁

 

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Lastly, Tim mounted the sender for the GPS speedo to the top center and ran the cord for it...

 

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Up next is to install the gauges and wire them...  👍

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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

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I feel the urge to Man-splain some things.  The bundle on the far left of the picture (13 wires) will run down the firewall to the floor-mounted switch box.  The bundle going over the left side of the top (10 wires) go to those two plugs to pass through the firewall for hot fusebox power, various lighting, the rad fan, and horm.  The bundle (3 wires right now) going over the right side of the top will pass through a different firewall hole and have coil/distributor hot, starter switch signal, and the wire from the alternator to the master kill (the 2ga main "Big-Assed" power lead from the master kill to the starter, and gauge signal wires will be added soon).  The bundle in the center (white and purple right now) will run down the firewall, next to the switch box loom, to the rear of the car for the fuel pump relay signal, fuel level signal, park lights, left brake/turn signal, right brake/turn signal, and the 2ga main "Big-Assed" power lead from battery to the master kill.  And finally, the bundle way over to the right (green, yellow, and pink right now) will go to the brake light switch, turn signal flasher, turn signal switch, and back out with left and right turn signal and brake light wires.  Easy peasy.

Edited by dimlight65
Put in a space.
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Saturday, rather than work on this project, we went and had another zorst installed on the Dajiban... which I'm already thinking about cutting off and replacing. 

 

Also, I just re-read all 30 pages of this thread.  It was... depressing to see how long this project is taking.  Sorry folks.

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I ran the wire from the oil pressure gauge into the bundle going to the engine bay.  I started to run the wire for the tach, but John gave me another assignment.  We'll have more info on that later... and in a different thread.  Sorry.

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On 5/31/2021 at 7:50 PM, dimlight65 said:

 

Also, I just re-read all 30 pages of this thread.  It was... depressing to see how long this project is taking.  Sorry folks.


The seven year itch.

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