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Revival of the Chickenhawk...


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And in other (unsurprising if one knows me) news, I hate the new layout taking up 1/3 of the screen.

Edited by dimlight65
Removing rant about how programmers are... No, not again.
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I have been "agonizing" over the park/headlight switch situation for some time and had an epiphany the other day.  See, the way I originally designed the system, the park lights and low beams were on an SPDT (single pole/dual throw) switch with up being park lights on, middle being off, and down being low beams.  I also had an SPDT (with one side momentary) for the high beams using the momentary side as a flash to pass.  The problem was, we didn't like having those two switches "off" in the center position when all the rest of the switches were SPST (single pole/single throw) with "off" in the down position.  I was convinced to lose the two SPDT switches in favor of two SPSTs.  Now, to paraphrase Pee Wee Herman, "Everyone has a 'Big But' Simone..." here's my "Big But." I wanted to be able to turn on the park lights without the ignition switch being on but wanted the low beams on the ignition circuit.  Here's the epiphany: DPST!  I bought a DPST (dual pole/single throw) switch that matches the rest and will wire the park light feed "constant hot" on one side and the low beams "ignition hot" on the other.  I know, all you "Electron Wranglers" out there are saying, "Well, duh.  Why didn't you do that from the start?" and the answer is, "SHUT THE HELL UP!"

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With the snowstorm shutting down the whole town (I was without power from Monday at 8:00 am to Tuesday at 10:00 pm [which doesn't sound like as long as it felt]), I had plenty of time offline to play with the wiring diagram for this project.  I believe I have it all worked out in my head, on paper, and in a google docs file... unfortunately, it looks like it will be another week before we go back to the shop to begin implementation.    

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2 hours ago, dimlight65 said:

With the snowstorm shutting down the whole town (I was without power from Monday at 8:00 am to Tuesday at 10:00 pm [which doesn't sound like as long as it felt]), I had plenty of time offline to play with the wiring diagram for this project.  I believe I have it all worked out in my head, on paper, and in a google docs file... unfortunately, it looks like it will be another week before we go back to the shop to begin implementation.    

About 4 months ago 1/2 of our block was without power for about the same amount of time because a transformer went out. I just love Xcel Energy! 🙄

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8 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

Glad to hear it just sucked, as opposed to being dangerous for you.  Way to be miserable and productive at the same time.

The house got down to 39 degrees inside, so I was a bit worried about my 91yo mother.  But my sister took her in and now she (mom) is grumpy at being away from her home, but she's warm.  I'm going to get her in the morning.

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All exterior and dash lights should be capable of being on without the ignition. Why would you have it any other way???

 

Dash, side marker, front and rear running lights and the license plate lights are all on the same circuit. These can be on without the headlights but they should always be on any time the headlights are on.  How can you drive with headlights on and no marker lights, again why would you have it any other way?

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17 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

All exterior and dash lights should be capable of being on without the ignition. Why would you have it any other way???

 

Dash, side marker, front and rear running lights and the license plate lights are all on the same circuit. These can be on without the headlights but they should always be on any time the headlights are on.  How can you drive with headlights on and no marker lights, again why would you have it any other way?

Doesn't everyone have a taillight kill switch? you know, for those "situations" 😏

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17 hours ago, datzenmike said:

All exterior and dash lights should be capable of being on without the ignition. Why would you have it any other way???

 

If the low beam headlamps are on the ignition switch instead, they act as daytime running lights, which is Tim's preferred method. 

17 hours ago, datzenmike said:

These can be on without the headlights but they should always be on any time the headlights are on.  How can you drive with headlights on and no marker lights, again why would you have it any other way?

 

No one said they'd drive it that way. It's mostly for stuff like this...   😁

 

1971_datsun_510_by_datsunfreak_d1hc5gr-f

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I have relays for my headlights. I would like to have the stock on/off switch but some way of using a signal from the ignition to switch them on. I ALWAYS run headlights in the daytime. Usually remember to turn them off. I think you would need a small diode so it doesn't back feed the headlight switch and turn the parking dash side markers etc.

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So we got some work done today... of course I don't know how to post pictures so you'll have to wait for John to do it or go to my instant grams here, here, and/or here.

 

What we accomplished was making the header* fit a little better.  We shortened the primaries and the slip-fit four-to-two collectors about 1.5" each (thus taking out about 1.5" due to overlap).  This moved the 4-to-2 bits up out of the floor.  We then zooked in some secondary pipes (which I totally forgot to measure) to get the final two-to-one collector to pass under the transmission cross member.  We think the overall length is similar to the original design, but the primaries are a bit shorter and the secondaries a bit longer.  Not sure what that's going to do to torque and/or horsepower, but we'll see.

 

*This is the header I built for the car about twenty years ago.

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Got some work done today, but it was exhausting...

 

groucho.jpg

 

 

We dug out my spare Z22 engine to use for mocking up purposes, then bolted the header to it. Since the header was hitting the floor at the merge, we needed to move the merge upstream a bit. So we cut back the primaries, and the pipes that slid over them, then reassembled...

 

20210227_101931.jpg.8a0c7a675a18e5850b5351fa5d868482.jpg

 

 

Then tacked those into place. and cut them flush to each other...

 

20210227_110633.jpg.ec260cd273910a86adcc1dad850df6c4.jpg

 

 

Then we started on making the secondary pipes and tacked those into place...

 

20210227_115201.jpg.bef3d95c2b650b7e7d5352dbb8287f5a.jpg

 

 

We put that into the car and made sure everything cleared, then marked the secondaries for where they needed to be cut, then cut them off flush to each other at the correct angle...

 

20210227_122839.jpg.fff794c05f0d9e044d276ada10b0ff0a.jpg

 

 

Then back to the welding table to tack on the last collector...

 

20210227_123708.jpg.3ab322cc137ac9dc519310367fd9d64d.jpg

 

 

Then once more to the car to verify clearances, and back to the welding table again to finish all the welds...

 

20210227_125857.jpg.10cdead3b8a0a80d9d59e85bf4fd16a9.jpg

 

 

We probably took the header in and out of the car a dozen times, but it was worth it because it fits and is fairly easy to install/remove now. 

 

We may tweak it a bit since it is very close to the frame rail (and there are other options we may try to fix this), but otherwise it's done. We will be welding on a V-band collector to the end of it before we refinish it in a super secret way we are keeping to ourselves for now... 😁

Edited by datsunfreak
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6 minutes ago, dimlight65 said:

So we got some work done today... of course I don't know how to post pictures so you'll have to wait for John to do it

 

I love it when we both post at the same time...  

 

7 minutes ago, dimlight65 said:

This is the header I built for the car about twenty years ago.

 

Coming up on 22, I think...

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Tim made this thick daddy spacer to go between the block and driver's side motor mount to shift the engine over about 1/4" to the passenger side...

 

20210306_101231.jpg.309de1da0bd832bd189afae41d413f2f.jpg

 

 

Then Tim added a V-band collector to the end of the header...

 

20210306_112439.jpg.71811a64cbb0982e60d6cf812a7bea73.jpg

 

 

Then Tim bought the world's longest glass pack muffler, which we added a V-band collect to, and a flex pipe in the middle for good measure...

 

20210306_123714.jpg.b52d99251b950dc8ba938d8c7c08e88d.jpg

 

 

And to make better clearance, we tweaked the steering shaft a bit to make it thinner through the middle (where it was hitting the header). Thought it deserved a lick of paint while it was out...

 

20210306_120425.jpg.b80d487799d42637e3fefc36e373420d.jpg

 

 

Header to steering shaft clearance is better than it was before. We now have about 3/8" gap between the shaft and header, whereas before the gap was zero.  😄

Edited by datsunfreak
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4 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

I also made a shift knob for the car. Don't know if Tim likes it or not yet...

 

20210306_100205.jpg.9bb725c2c55de0220ebe0bd3f35ce6dc.jpg

 

What the...?  Oh man, that is friggin' AWESOME!  I thought you were making that for the Galaxie!  

 

Freakin' dusty old laptop.  I'm not crying, you're crying.

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  • 2 weeks later...

In this car's previous life, it was quite loud inside.  Yes, we have ditched the solid motor mounts, and the zorst will no longer be in contact with my right heel at all times, but I still feel like it is going to be a bit on the noisy side in the cockpit.  With that in mind, I have been mulling over the installation of an intercom system.  Well, the third stimulation check has cleared into my account so... guess what!

 

I'm thinking of these headsets, and this "make-the-headsets-work-together" thingy.  Of course, I see that the "MTHWT" part isn't available on the 'Zon right now, so I guess I'm going shopping for it elsewhere.

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