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About jeffball610

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/27/1977

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Sin City
  • Cars
    1972 510, 2006 GMC 1500
  • Interests
  • Occupation
    Teaching and things

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  1. So a thing happened a couple of weeks ago. Of course, it was 6 days before a road course event and during Thanksgiving week. I changed my oil, and this is what I find. Ignore the squiggly things. That's just RTV or something. The small flakes aren't that big of a concern, but I did find a couple of larger ones. So of course, I pull the motor and order bearings knowing they won't arrive in time. But to my surprise, STM Tuning got them to me in record time and I had a chance. This is what I found on the main bearings. Almost nothing. Typical wear from dry starts. There is one small piece out of the #1 main bearing, but still not that concerning. The initial thought was "crankwalk", but the thrust bearing looked fine. The crank had typical wear. There were a couple of rough spots I could feel with a fingernail, so I gave it a DIY polish. The rod bearings looked about the same. Nothing too unusual. So I tossed it all back together. If I pulled an all nighter, I could have made the road course event, but I chose to take my time. Sadly, I still don't know if it all worked. My wideband O2 sensor readings are all over the place, so I don't have much run time on the motor with the new bearings. I'd like to get a good heat cycle and some miles on it before I change the oil. Things are just fighting me right now. Thankfully winter break is coming up and I'll have some time to really dig in, but I'd like to get this thing back on the road (and the track) so I can really enjoy it. This is what a good O2 sensor signal should look like. This is what it looks like now. It only reads full rich and full lean. Mostly full lean, not matter how much fuel I add. I did jostle the wires a bit and remount the ECU when I pulled the motor. I'm not getting any error codes from the Innovate LC2 unit, so I'm at a loss.
  2. I rewired my entire car this summer. Deutsch connectors for the entire chassis to replace all of the stock connectors (minus the ignition) and new connectors for the BMW headlights. I used Tefzel wires for the chassis and Mil-spec for the engine harness. I used all new Mitsubishi engine harness connectors as well. It was a big job. There's no denying that. I think it was well worth it for the peace of mind and the knowledge I gained. I accidentally swapped two wires in the rear tail light on install that I was able to quickly and easily swap on a quick fuel stop. I also learned how resistant the stock harness has become. My horn was going off immediately when I finished the rewire. The new wires were so conductive that the horn button was now flowing current through the sheathing. A small issue hidden by the old wires. I have Bussman fuse/relay panels from Waytek and micro fuses and relays to populate it. Do it for piece of mind if your harness has ever been spliced. You can also save about 5ft of wire by rerouting the rear harness to only follow the driver's side instead of crossing over at the backseat.
  3. Here's a quick video of the wheel spin I discovered in 3rd gear 😜 Wheel Spin :-)
  4. So #4G63510 made its first dyno session over a month later than expected and its first ever. Right out of the gate on the street tune at 10psi it made 285whp. We were trying to get the stock boost solenoid controller to make some extra boost, but it appears my Synapse waste gate is not set up for tuning like that. I have a Tial unit on the way, but we increased boost using the port combinations Synapse has. At 14psi it made 345whp. The dyno wasn't able to load the turbo correctly in my opinion and we were fighting phantom knock, but it still worked out. Ignore the torque readings, as there was intermittent RPM signal loss to the dyno and it wasn't reading correctly either. Proof that the dyno was not working right for me (he has several cars making 800+whp) I accidentally made 17psi on the way home and almost wet myself when the tires spun in 3rd gear. That should equal around 400+whp and I let off around 5500rpm before I ended both mine and the car's lives. I'll have some videos up eventually 🙂
  5. ...performance upgrades. It started with cleaning up the lower coolant routing that always leaked and was simply not up to the task of what I've been asking it to do. Here is a poor picture of the old set up. The grey tube comes out of the water pump makes a 180 degree turn to the lower radiator outlet. It also contains the coolant return for the turbo. It was replaced with a new water pump with more direct fitting tubing. I'm not an aluminum welder, so my friend Trevor of Trevtec welded up the new outlet and coolant return fittings. Once again, "while I was in there", I replaced the stock oil pressure diverter in the head with a unit from Kiggly. The 4G63 has a "dummy" valve in the head that doesn't regulate oil pressure in the head very well. In heavy race conditions, oil can build up in the head and starve the oil pick up. It can also cause the hydraulic lifters to tick. This unit regulates this pressure to keep that from happening instead of simply bleeding off the oil. Ignore the braided line there. This was so I could remote mount the oil pressure sensor. I've heard that mounting it to the engine can cause erratic readings and it should be "shock mounted". There's a few other dress pieces there from STM Tuned in there too. Next on the upgrade path were some better tires. The 320 tread wear Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s did well enough, but my plans to make more power and turn harder necessitated an update to the contact patch. So I went to Gummy Grip, a local performance shop that sponsors our local SCCA autocross region, and got some Bridgestone Potenza RE-71Rs installed. These are 205/45/16s. I didn't notice too much difference on my first autocross in over 5 months, but the course was rough and I was told these needed a heat cycle to break in. I'll get another shot to test them out on November 30th at an open track day hosted by the local SCCA. And yes, that is a dyno you see...
  6. It's been a while since I updated anything. Lots to report, and I'll update it in several sections. First is just a recap. I took the long drive to the "Canby Make Up" event at Powerland near Portland, OR. The round trip drive was about 3,400 miles. I didn't take too many pics. I was busy enjoying the drive, but here's one at the column in Astoria, OR. After returning from the trip, the car had a rough idle and turned out to be a bad valve. So a head refresh was in order. I decided to do a full rebuild on a spare head using quality parts from BC Racing. "While I was in there", I decided to finally redo the wiring harness. The previous one worked fine, but used connectors and wires that were 30 years old and had been hacked and spliced to work. I used all new wires from Mil-spec and new connectors from Sheridan Engineering. The harness (here shown on the old head) was "tucked" and hidden to keep things clean and neat. After getting things back together, I managed to make it to the Route 66 JDM Classic and Nissfest in SoCal. Neither event was really my style, but it was nice to meet some people who appreciate the tin cans and recognize the work I've put in to make this my own car. So, after nearly 1000 miles of proving the parts work, it was time to do more...
  7. I'm finally getting around to posting an update on my leaking head. It's not a major issue. It seems it's only one valve on cylinder #4. I presume this happened due to a bad valve guide. I bought the head with a bent valve and, if memory serves me, it was this exact valve. Looking at things, I think I could simply re lap this seat and valve and get it up and running, but I assume the issue would return so I bought a used head to rebuild. You can't see much in the pictures because there isn't much to see. The most evident thing is just the lack of heat presence on the bad valve due to hot compression gasses not being present. The valve seat and face don't even look like they're bad until you really get in there. In any case, I have plans to rebuild a different head and do some upgrades and "while I'm in there" mods. Cylinder #4 Cylinder #3 Valve seat Valve face
  8. After the Powerland show, I decided I should probably put together a list of the current parts. There were lots of discussions about how many cars parts my build is made up of. Not including the body, I think I'm up to about 28 different car models. Here's the list as it stands. I'll update this on occasion to make it current and accurate.
  9. It's been a while since I've updated this. I've been fighting some issues. I've got the whole chassis rewired with Deutsch connectors. Swapped in a 7/8" MC with the booster, and then without the booster. I'm still fighting braking issues. None of that stops me from taking the car out to autocross and have fun. Here is a run from the May 19th session. https://youtu.be/N8vES_FLiSE I ran a 48.873 this run with a cone. I ran a 48.501 earlier in the day without video. My co driver ran a best of 45.483 and the top driver in an Alfa 4c had a 41.4 second run. I'll be posting various "help" threads for specific issues I'm having. I've been posting inside of other's threads and I feel like I'm hijacking what the original topic is. If there is an issue with my multiple posts, please let me know.
  10. I'm sorry, I didn't see this. My recipe is posted throughout this build. The basic breakdown: Stock 510 trailing arms with the hubs cut out Weld in Z31 hubs with brake bracket (mine are 87+ units) While you're at it, might as well use the same brakes that came from that Z31 Z31 R200 (I swapped in a Tomei CLSD) Rear axles are Z31 CV joints on both ends with WD21 Pathfinder front axle shafts (1986-1995 Pathfinder 4WD) My best advice is to make sure you weld the hubs in either straight or with whatever toe and camber changes you might want. I would not put the brake bracket at 12 'o clock like I did. Depending on how your hubs get situated, you may need to clearance the control arm a bit. Mine was very minor. Lastly, unless you REALLY want 5-lug hubs, stick with 4-lug. You can still get Z31 4-lug hubs and matching CV axles. I thought 5-lug would offer me more wheel options, but most of the "classic" style wheels are only 4-lug. I hope that helps.
  11. 2 months later, and it's still not any better. My current explanation of the brake feel is "it slows the car, but it doesn't stop". I can feel the brakes engage at a decent spot in the pedal, but there is no more engagement with additional travel. At the bottom of the travel, the pedal stiffens up, but pushing harder doesn't do anything more. I'm out of ideas and I'm open to any and all suggestions. My current mood it to go back to manual brakes. I'm fine with that, but I was hoping the booster would add some needed brake pedal feel and modulation. What are others running for brake set ups? Is everyone just running 15/16" or 7/8" manual brakes? Why do I see so many cars with B210 boosters if it doesn't work? I assume my booster works and holds vacuum because pressing the pedal with the motor off goes from "boosted feel" to manual feel after a press or two. I don't think my brake caliper set up is so far off from what others are running that it would have this profound of an effect. I'm at a loss here.
  12. Here are 2 laps from that days sessions. I know I'm not fast, and I've got a LOT to learn, but it was a blast.
  13. So, #4G63510 made it to its first road course event. I was very worried about the brakes after my B210 booster install. They're still not great, but I felt safe enough to be on course. My Tomei R200 1.5 way LSD worked great. I could definitely feel that the car was putting power down to both rear tires. No drama or lag from spinning one tire. The car ran great and I was easily keeping up with Miatas in the turns and staying with higher horsepower cars on the straights. I have a lot to learn about driving, but the car did well. That is until the last session. I was not feeling the power that I had all day and took a peak at my boost gauge on the straight. I was only making 5psi at 5k RPM instead of 10+psi. After I pulled into the pit area I took a peak at all of my vacuum lines and such in case there was a leak, and then I noticed this: I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to do that. It's disappointing that a part that is considered high quality would do that. It also seems like an odd failure in general. Thankfully it was the last session, and I was able to drive home. Overall it was a success and I can't wait for the next event.
  14. Well, the #4G63510 made it to its first road course event. The LSD worked great. It is still clunky in low speed turns, but mostly it seems to be whether the diff is warmed up or not. I was definitely putting power down to both tires and I was able to modulate the power coming out of turns instead of the car just falling on its face wasting power on one tire. It does seem a bit noisy, but I'm not sure if it's just the nature of the clutch type unit, or if I need to adjust the gear engagement. I did nothing to set it up other than check the backlash. In any case, it seems to be working well. I'll look into the clunking and see if I need to reduce the initial torque more, or if it's just the nature of things.
  15. I tried everything I could, and it still wasn't working. I took the car to a friend with a shop and we started from square one. We plugged a few minor leaks including redoing my MC bleed screw block offs. The bled the system again. Still felt like crap. So, we took the pushrod out from the booster and extended it some. It seems that the 15/16 MC has a deeper hole than the 7/8 MC. We extended the rod about 1/4 inch and it improved considerably. I'm still not happy with the engagement of the pedal, but it was good enough to get me on track and not fear for my life. I'll keep adjusting, but I'm still open to suggestions.
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