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About jeffball610

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/27/1977

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Sin City
  • Cars
    1972 510, 2006 GMC 1500
  • Interests
  • Occupation
    Teaching and things

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  1. I'm finally getting around to posting an update on my leaking head. It's not a major issue. It seems it's only one valve on cylinder #4. I presume this happened due to a bad valve guide. I bought the head with a bent valve and, if memory serves me, it was this exact valve. Looking at things, I think I could simply re lap this seat and valve and get it up and running, but I assume the issue would return so I bought a used head to rebuild. You can't see much in the pictures because there isn't much to see. The most evident thing is just the lack of heat presence on the bad valve due to hot compression gasses not being present. The valve seat and face don't even look like they're bad until you really get in there. In any case, I have plans to rebuild a different head and do some upgrades and "while I'm in there" mods. Cylinder #4 Cylinder #3 Valve seat Valve face
  2. After the Powerland show, I decided I should probably put together a list of the current parts. There were lots of discussions about how many cars parts my build is made up of. Not including the body, I think I'm up to about 28 different car models. Here's the list as it stands. I'll update this on occasion to make it current and accurate.
  3. It's been a while since I've updated this. I've been fighting some issues. I've got the whole chassis rewired with Deutsch connectors. Swapped in a 7/8" MC with the booster, and then without the booster. I'm still fighting braking issues. None of that stops me from taking the car out to autocross and have fun. Here is a run from the May 19th session. https://youtu.be/N8vES_FLiSE I ran a 48.873 this run with a cone. I ran a 48.501 earlier in the day without video. My co driver ran a best of 45.483 and the top driver in an Alfa 4c had a 41.4 second run. I'll be posting various "help" threads for specific issues I'm having. I've been posting inside of other's threads and I feel like I'm hijacking what the original topic is. If there is an issue with my multiple posts, please let me know.
  4. I'm sorry, I didn't see this. My recipe is posted throughout this build. The basic breakdown: Stock 510 trailing arms with the hubs cut out Weld in Z31 hubs with brake bracket (mine are 87+ units) While you're at it, might as well use the same brakes that came from that Z31 Z31 R200 (I swapped in a Tomei CLSD) Rear axles are Z31 CV joints on both ends with WD21 Pathfinder front axle shafts (1986-1995 Pathfinder 4WD) My best advice is to make sure you weld the hubs in either straight or with whatever toe and camber changes you might want. I would not put the brake bracket at 12 'o clock like I did. Depending on how your hubs get situated, you may need to clearance the control arm a bit. Mine was very minor. Lastly, unless you REALLY want 5-lug hubs, stick with 4-lug. You can still get Z31 4-lug hubs and matching CV axles. I thought 5-lug would offer me more wheel options, but most of the "classic" style wheels are only 4-lug. I hope that helps.
  5. 2 months later, and it's still not any better. My current explanation of the brake feel is "it slows the car, but it doesn't stop". I can feel the brakes engage at a decent spot in the pedal, but there is no more engagement with additional travel. At the bottom of the travel, the pedal stiffens up, but pushing harder doesn't do anything more. I'm out of ideas and I'm open to any and all suggestions. My current mood it to go back to manual brakes. I'm fine with that, but I was hoping the booster would add some needed brake pedal feel and modulation. What are others running for brake set ups? Is everyone just running 15/16" or 7/8" manual brakes? Why do I see so many cars with B210 boosters if it doesn't work? I assume my booster works and holds vacuum because pressing the pedal with the motor off goes from "boosted feel" to manual feel after a press or two. I don't think my brake caliper set up is so far off from what others are running that it would have this profound of an effect. I'm at a loss here.
  6. Here are 2 laps from that days sessions. I know I'm not fast, and I've got a LOT to learn, but it was a blast.
  7. So, #4G63510 made it to its first road course event. I was very worried about the brakes after my B210 booster install. They're still not great, but I felt safe enough to be on course. My Tomei R200 1.5 way LSD worked great. I could definitely feel that the car was putting power down to both rear tires. No drama or lag from spinning one tire. The car ran great and I was easily keeping up with Miatas in the turns and staying with higher horsepower cars on the straights. I have a lot to learn about driving, but the car did well. That is until the last session. I was not feeling the power that I had all day and took a peak at my boost gauge on the straight. I was only making 5psi at 5k RPM instead of 10+psi. After I pulled into the pit area I took a peak at all of my vacuum lines and such in case there was a leak, and then I noticed this: I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to do that. It's disappointing that a part that is considered high quality would do that. It also seems like an odd failure in general. Thankfully it was the last session, and I was able to drive home. Overall it was a success and I can't wait for the next event.
  8. Well, the #4G63510 made it to its first road course event. The LSD worked great. It is still clunky in low speed turns, but mostly it seems to be whether the diff is warmed up or not. I was definitely putting power down to both tires and I was able to modulate the power coming out of turns instead of the car just falling on its face wasting power on one tire. It does seem a bit noisy, but I'm not sure if it's just the nature of the clutch type unit, or if I need to adjust the gear engagement. I did nothing to set it up other than check the backlash. In any case, it seems to be working well. I'll look into the clunking and see if I need to reduce the initial torque more, or if it's just the nature of things.
  9. I tried everything I could, and it still wasn't working. I took the car to a friend with a shop and we started from square one. We plugged a few minor leaks including redoing my MC bleed screw block offs. The bled the system again. Still felt like crap. So, we took the pushrod out from the booster and extended it some. It seems that the 15/16 MC has a deeper hole than the 7/8 MC. We extended the rod about 1/4 inch and it improved considerably. I'm still not happy with the engagement of the pedal, but it was good enough to get me on track and not fear for my life. I'll keep adjusting, but I'm still open to suggestions.
  10. I meant in the 4G63 community. I'll put something else on for my next oil change, but most filters are made by the same company in the same facility. Most alcohol is made the same way. Kirkland vodka is made in the same distillery as Grey Goose.
  11. I have full Z31 disks and calipers with a 280ZX 15/16" MC. A member on the Realm suggested a reverse bleed by pushing fluid from the caliper to the MC. I'll give that a shot.
  12. I have had everything installed for about a week now. The pedal is almost nonexistent until the last few inches, and then it still doesn't stop very well. I presume there is air in the lines despite a complete fluid flush and bleed. I even went as far as to bleed the system using a tube from the caliper to the MC. The rear had a lot of air in it, but the fronts had none. When I press the pedal, I can feel it "wanting" to brake, but there just isn't much resistance or stopping power. It's not very safe to drive on the road, but I'm still doing it hoping I can bleed out whatever is trapped in there. If anyone has a better method, please let me know. I have a road course event on Saturday that is already paid for and I'm super excited for. However, if the car can't haul me down from 100mph, then it won't be safe on the track. Any input is appreciated.
  13. It's installed and broken in. I haven't taken it out yet since I changed the fluid, but my initial impressions are it's noisy and clunky. I assume it just needs to break in more, but I'm sure I have some bushings that need some refreshing. I still don't have a proper torque reading. I followed the Factory Nissan manual for checking the torque at the wheel, but it just says if it's within spec or not. I got a reading of about 60ft/lbs before break in, and about 50ft/lbs after using a torque wrench with about a 16" handle.. According to the manual, that's within spec, but I have no idea what the actual reading is. I'm sure there is a math equation that I can calculate it, but I don't know it off hand. Anyone have input? Small update: I took it out for spin. The clunking only seems to be at low speeds. I guess I just need to drive more aggressively ?
  14. Thanks for the thought. Fram is pretty standard on 4G63 cars. I change the oil often enough that anything more expensive or "better" isn't all that necessary. That being said, I'll look into other options.
  15. A short dash cam video from today. Getting loose in 2nd gear and never going faster than 45mph. Squirmy Video Fixed link
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