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About jeffball610

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/27/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sin City
  • Cars
    1972 510, 2006 GMC 1500
  • Interests
  • Occupation
    Teaching and things

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  1. Here's some video of the car on the dyno from October. It made 285hp at 10psi and 345hp at 14psi on a Garrett hybrid GT3067R.
  2. I took the plunge in my search for cruise control. I just ordered an Audiovox CCS-100 from eBay (fingers crossed). It's a "sealed vintage unit" for $170 shipped. Better than the $230+ places are asking for new units or the Rostra units out there. I'm hoping it works on a turbo car. I'll get a chance to find out while the world is in quarantine and hopefully this summer on a drive to the NW at Powerland if it's still going on.
  3. Saturday I got the car dialed in on the new Silver Mine suspension and got an official weight for the car. Sadly, all that suspension tuning didn't turn into fast times at autocross on Sunday. I'm still figuring out how to drive and it's definitely tail happy at the limit. Turn in seemed better and the car set better on turn in, so something is working right. Now I just need to tune the nut behind the wheel. Rave reviews were given about the Futofab front control arms and the Byron's brackets out back. The tuner is familiar with the 510 and does set up work for major race teams and manufacturers, so I'd take his word on it. As far as the Silver Mine coilovers, they seem to work as intended. I think the front springs being 4k might be a bit soft, but the shock adjustment is in the middle, so I'm sure I can stiffen it up a bit. The rears are 5k and we raised the car about 1/2"+ from the Specialty Engineering springs I had previously. I'll keep driving it to provide more feedback. I might try to do the National Solo event in 3 weeks to get more seat time. Sadly I don't have any in car video from the event, as the video files seemed to have been corrupted or something.
  4. Here's a video that's way too long about my Silver Mine Motorsports coilover install. I'll update with another video in about 2 weeks with my feedback and impressions from the next autocross event on March 8th.
  5. Autocross February 9, 2020. The car still had understeer due to lack of front end suspension travel. I have changed suspension set ups to the Silver Mine Motorsports since this event. I'm getting an alignment this week and the next event is soon, so I'll get a chance to provide some feedback.
  6. Here's a short video of me on the highway coming home from autocross. I found myself without traction rolling into 3rd gear.
  7. After that last autocross, I started shopping for new suspension parts. I've discovered that my front end is running out of suspension travel and bottoming out giving me understeer with the grip level I'm currently experiencing. My current set up is full length S12 struts with stock 280Z KYB inserts and T3 coil overs up front. Out back is Specialty Engineering springs and KYB shocks (probably Camero units). I would love to run Troy Ermish's stuff, but I think my set up is quite different from what he deals with. He's a smart guy and I'm sure he can cook something up, but I've gone another route. For the price, I'm not sure I can do better. I just purchased a complete set of coilovers from Silver Mine Motorsports. The fronts are adjustable for height, spring preload, and dampening. The rears are just height and spring preload adjustable. My biggest selling point is the modularity of the units. Several other companies have similar styles of coilovers and I'm sure they all use the same threaded tubes making it easy to run someone else's stuff in the future if the need arises. But for $800 shipped for a set of 4, it's tough to argue against it. I haven't seen too many people running them, but a YouTuber I follow, CZero Media, runs them on his Z and likes them. My uses will be different than his, but there are several "sponsored racers" on the Silver Mine site, so they might work out okay. I'll update this thread when I put them together and give some initial feedback. The next autocross event is March 8th and I'll give them a full thrashing :-) I'll post a short video from last weekend's autocross soon. I only made 3 runs and left before the afternoon session due to weather. I finished mid pack and at least 3 seconds slower than I think I can run. Oh well.
  8. I didn't find anything I was liking, but I did find a cheap delrin "Rally Art" knob on Amazon. None of the inserts fit, so I made something work with a nylon bushing and a thread tap. I definitely want something more, but it does the job and looks better than the beat up original knob.
  9. Whoops. That was the link in YouTube to my mod list. It should work now.
  10. I'm still up and running. I haven't seen any issues recently and it seems to run fine. Here's a quick video of my best autocross time from last weekend.
  11. I just installed my new Cube R154 short throw shifter, and now it looks out of place. (not that the original shifter looked great) I'd really like to get a wood "Datsun" shift knob, but my shifter has a different thread pitch than standard Datsun/Nissan. Mine is 12mmx1.25, so I'm kind of looking at custom options or drilling out a standard knob. I like the wood style below, but I'd LOVE it if I could get it with the lower Datsun logo. I'm not looking to spend a ton of money, but I'd like a nice experience while driving. On a side note, if a wood knob is not allowed by racing sanctions, then I'll have to go with another material. I know wood steering wheels are not allowed, but I don't know the rule on knobs.
  12. I did a calibration for the third time. Apparently the third time is the charm. It's working correctly, but the tune is still off a bit. I just need to put some miles on it. Too bad I don't have a heater in the car so I can drive it when it's cold out.
  13. So a thing happened a couple of weeks ago. Of course, it was 6 days before a road course event and during Thanksgiving week. I changed my oil, and this is what I find. Ignore the squiggly things. That's just RTV or something. The small flakes aren't that big of a concern, but I did find a couple of larger ones. So of course, I pull the motor and order bearings knowing they won't arrive in time. But to my surprise, STM Tuning got them to me in record time and I had a chance. This is what I found on the main bearings. Almost nothing. Typical wear from dry starts. There is one small piece out of the #1 main bearing, but still not that concerning. The initial thought was "crankwalk", but the thrust bearing looked fine. The crank had typical wear. There were a couple of rough spots I could feel with a fingernail, so I gave it a DIY polish. The rod bearings looked about the same. Nothing too unusual. So I tossed it all back together. If I pulled an all nighter, I could have made the road course event, but I chose to take my time. Sadly, I still don't know if it all worked. My wideband O2 sensor readings are all over the place, so I don't have much run time on the motor with the new bearings. I'd like to get a good heat cycle and some miles on it before I change the oil. Things are just fighting me right now. Thankfully winter break is coming up and I'll have some time to really dig in, but I'd like to get this thing back on the road (and the track) so I can really enjoy it. This is what a good O2 sensor signal should look like. This is what it looks like now. It only reads full rich and full lean. Mostly full lean, not matter how much fuel I add. I did jostle the wires a bit and remount the ECU when I pulled the motor. I'm not getting any error codes from the Innovate LC2 unit, so I'm at a loss.
  14. I rewired my entire car this summer. Deutsch connectors for the entire chassis to replace all of the stock connectors (minus the ignition) and new connectors for the BMW headlights. I used Tefzel wires for the chassis and Mil-spec for the engine harness. I used all new Mitsubishi engine harness connectors as well. It was a big job. There's no denying that. I think it was well worth it for the peace of mind and the knowledge I gained. I accidentally swapped two wires in the rear tail light on install that I was able to quickly and easily swap on a quick fuel stop. I also learned how resistant the stock harness has become. My horn was going off immediately when I finished the rewire. The new wires were so conductive that the horn button was now flowing current through the sheathing. A small issue hidden by the old wires. I have Bussman fuse/relay panels from Waytek and micro fuses and relays to populate it. Do it for piece of mind if your harness has ever been spliced. You can also save about 5ft of wire by rerouting the rear harness to only follow the driver's side instead of crossing over at the backseat.
  15. Here's a quick video of the wheel spin I discovered in 3rd gear 😜 Wheel Spin :-)
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