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jeffball610

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About jeffball610

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/27/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sin City
  • Cars
    2003 350Z, 1972 510
  • Interests
    Stuff
  • Occupation
    Teaching and stuff

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  1. jeffball610

    4G63 510

    Thanks for the thought. Fram is pretty standard on 4G63 cars. I change the oil often enough that anything more expensive or "better" isn't all that necessary. That being said, I'll look into other options.
  2. jeffball610

    4G63 510

    A short dash cam video from today. Getting loose in 2nd gear and never going faster than 45mph. Squirmy Video Fixed link
  3. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    I found this video by KAAZ that seems identical to the clutch type LSD that Tomei makes. They show how to adjust the lockup from 100% to 80% or 65%. https://youtu.be/dYG3G7fQdi8
  4. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    I'm basing my data off of other 510s and their similarity in weight, size, and wheelbase to a Miata. I'm then comparing it to what Tomei offers and guessing as to what I should be going for. I have zero experience with this, so it's all guesswork on my end.
  5. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    Small update. I spoke with Tomei USA and they said there might be a way. They are contacting Tomei Japan to confirm. My thought was to reduce the contact between inner and out clutches. Currently there are 4 inner and 4 outer clutches on each side. That gives me 7 points of contact on each side. If I swap around the clutches to have 2 of each touching (2 inner and then 2 outer etc) I can reduce the contact down to 3 points. If my math is right, that should be a 62% reduction in surface area and effectively giving me 9.57kg/m or about 69ft/lbs which is what everyone seems to be telling me to shoot for. I seriously have no idea if this will work, as I have zero experience with diffs or anything of this nature. If anyone has any good ideas, let me know.
  6. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    I got my Tomei unit today. Seems like a solid unit. The direction booklet that comes with it doesn't have any info that I don't already have. I'm still unsure of how to reduce the initial torque, because no one likes to answer phones or return calls. I don't see any info on the internet either and I've yet to see anyone install a Tomei LSD that does more than drop it in. I hate being the one to break new ground, but a man has to do what he's got to do.
  7. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    I did have to cut an area out for the mounting studs. There is a "support" that runs in that area. I only cut what was necessary, and it doesn't seem to affect anything. The biggest issue is that you can't just drop the diff out. You have to either let the crossmember sag, or remove the whole rear suspension. I'm thinking I might make a mustache bar that un-bolts from the mounts to make it a drop out unit eventually.
  8. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    The R200 is not a thing with Miata guys as far as I understand. This is just a comparison between LSD options that Tomei has. The hub welding idea is not mine. There were a few guys that did it a number of years ago. I just followed them as best I could. This just seemed like an easier and cheaper option than custom CV axles and sourcing R180 LSDs (or so I thought).
  9. jeffball610

    B210 Booster Install Issues

    I’m currently running Z31 front and rear calipers and rotors with a 15/16” MC. Although this is adequate for street driving, the pedal is stiff and does not allow much modulation. This will make racing the car much more difficult. Recently I picked up a B210 brake booster, and although it physically fits in the car, the master cylinder bleeder screws touch my intake manifold. In fact, the casting of the MC touches the manifold. However, the booster should allow for more modulation of the pedal and make it safer to drive at a high level.So here’s my plan. It seems that I only need 8mm of bleeder screw engagement to seal the hole.The holes are approximately 12mm deep.I can “mill” off 4mm of the casting for clearance and still have a sealed MC. That being said, the bleeder screws are much longer than that. Since their only purpose is to bench bleed the MC, I can do that with full screws, and replace them with cut and welded screws.When welding the screw closed, I will need to make provisions for something to torque the screw into the hole. This should be simple enough by making a slit for a flathead screwdriver.I didn't take a picture of this. I was too busy getting things working right.Right now, I seem to have clearance and the MC seems to hold fluid. I haven't pressurized it yet to see if the bleeder screws will leak.What’s wrong with my plan? My other option is to use a ⅞” MC with the bleed screws on the other side. I will still have some clearance issues on that side, but not nearly as much. The downside is the reduced braking force from the smaller MC.
  10. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    My swap consists of using Z31 5-lug hubs and bearing housings that are welded in the stock 510 location. This allows me to swap in Z31 CV joints and use a Pathfinder axle shaft with no other modifications other than the mustache bar. Looking at what Tomei lists, I'm thinking the breakaway torque is about double what others say I should have. They list 16.5-18.5 kg/m for the R200 while smaller and lighter cars like the Miata are around 6-8 kg/m. The test shown cannot be performed like that on my car since there is no center nut to torque on. I'll see what I can do to test it, but I think I need to talk to Tomei or a shop first to see if I can lower the breakaway torque significantly. They do have a procedure for increasing torque by about 10% by using two 0.1mm thicker clutches. I might be able to simply remove a clutch or two and still have something that works properly.
  11. jeffball610

    4G63 510

    I made a little video of the install of my T3 coilovers and camber plates. I have an issue preventing me from running the camber plates that hopefully T3 can help me resolve.
  12. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    So I broke down and bought a Tomei 1.5 way. However, their doesn't seem to be any good info on setting up an LSD. I have the specs for the Tomei's initial toque and there's even a drawing of the clutch plate set up, but they only have directions on how to increase initial torque, not reduce it. That being said, I'm not sure what torque figure I should be going for. The 510 is a pretty light chassis, and it's not like I'll be making 1000hp on big sticky tires, so I'm assuming a lower initial torque set up than "stock" is what I should be going for. I'm trying to compare numbers between the R200 and smaller cars like the Miata to see if it makes sense. However, I don't know if the Miata numbers are for stock N/A setups, or something more. Does engine power mean anything in an LSD? Is it all friction from tires and rolling mass? Does anyone have a solid number to build from? How do I measure initial torque on a bench?
  13. jeffball610

    R200 LSD options/setup

    So I've come to the conclusion that I will never find a stock longnose R200 LSD for a reasonable price, and I'm shopping for aftermarket solutions for my 4G63 powered Datsun 510. I've basically landed on the Tomei 2 way clutch unit, but I'd like to get others opinions on the topic. I mostly street drive my car, but I do autocross events and I'm hoping to make my first road course event in January. Is a 2 way the right choice, or should I look at 1.5 or even 1 way LSD options? This is going in a light weight chassis (lighter than any vehicle that came stock with an R200), so should I be concerned with the engagement setup? With a clutch type, you can swap out the stacks to get a particular engagement and slip. Would anyone recommend doing this over the "stock" setup? I have a feeling that the standard "out of the box" setup might be too harsh. I plan to do the install myself, so I'd like to have as much info as I can before proceeding. Also, since this is a longnose unit and the aftermarket options are for the shortnose units, who still makes the bolt sleeves to make this work? I think Z1 used to sell them, but I haven't seen anything lately. I'm open to advice and options. I'd rather not get an OBX unit, but if a mechanical LSD is the best choice, I might take a chance. Are there any other concerns I should be aware of before taking the plunge?
  14. jeffball610

    4G63 510

    Small update, but big accomplishment (for me at least)
  15. jeffball610

    4G63 510

    CZeroMedia did a quick video about my car during Mitsubishi Owner's Day a few weeks ago and just posted the video. https://youtu.be/Iq2nINNJIQ8
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