r0p0doe Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 It finally works :) Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 1, 2014 Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 It finally works :) See ya in a few hours. 2 Link to comment
VFR800 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 You guys broke the fuckin link before I got to check it out, thanks a lot :sleep: I saved it all. Can always post in the POST TITS thread if Ratsun.net has good lawyers. 1 Link to comment
HRH Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Well I already looked at them, but I have this wheel porn to post! Spent a bit with acid and a scrubby pad, got the wheels looking pretty good. Still a few spots, but oh well. Mounted them up and balanced them, I think they look better than the 5 stars! Going to leave those on for winter wheels, especially since they have the peeling clearcoat. Of course, it matches the paint on the truck. Hopefully that will be fixed next year. Anyway, here you go! 1 Link to comment
JoeCool Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Those turbine wheels look almost as good as Kate Upton's tits in the above link! 1 Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Like the PCV valve and charcoal canister the coolant recovery is so simple in operation I don't know why it wasn't thought of sooner. Every summer the coolant not recovered has to be replaced (usually with water) and come winter, your anti freeze protection is lower and needs to be 'topped up'. The rad cap has the usual tight seal that is only releases when the cap is removed or the rad exceeds the 13 PSI spring to release pressure and coolant out the over-flow hose. In the center of the cap is another one way valve that only opens inward, also connected to the over-flow hose. Everything works the same when engine is hot and system pressurized. Any coolant expelled will cause a void under slight vacuum once the engine cools. The smaller one way valve is sucked open and the over-flow pipe becomes a drinking straw in the coolant recovery bottle. Coolant is sucked in to replace that which was expelled and the rad stays full. do you think the Stant safety release one that came with my truck will work? Ferking dealership wants $45 plus shipping and I find it online for $10 plus shipping. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Go to a wrecking yard and grab one. Has large rubber seal around the outside like the regular ones and a smaller round rubber one in the center. More or less like this... Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 went today, they all had aftermarket caps... or the rad was gone. I'll keep searching Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 See ya in a few hours. Most of them were dead by time I got to them but what I did get to see was cool, some of them I've never seen but who cares they were naked lol. Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 why don't I ever check Rock auto? Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 this page is no longer available due to a copyright claim. Maybe slower in Canada. This was up an hour ago. Yawn, someone explain what I didn't get. Looked like real amateur kid stuff. Now if this was Jessica Biel Or Kate Beckinsale I'm in. Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 went today, they all had aftermarket caps... or the rad was gone. I'll keep searching Just buy a cap. There are only 3 different sizes in that style. They're like $8. 1 Link to comment
HRH Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 I sell Sankei radiator caps through our altrom line at NAPA. Japanese radiator cap. Works just as well as a standard Stant radiator cap. There really isn't much to a radiator cap besides a seal and a spring. And yeah, a new one is a good idea. And it's cheap. 1 Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 So we pulled an engine Saturday night and we still can't get motor mounts on ,, oh wait ,, that wasn't me. never mind to soon? 2 Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Someone mention boobs , no? well here's some anyways. 1 Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 I have a brand new cap, I just want to make sure I have a cap that allows expansion tank siphoning. I am a moment away from starting the LZ for the first time, Just gotta fab a bracket so teh throttle cable pulls properly, figure out if I have an internal or external regulated alternator and prime the oil pump. Since I am using a head that came off of a previously/recently operating engine I don't need to worry aboot running it at 2000 rpm for 20 min at startup... right? I know aboot accelerating to third and varying the rpm range for 500 miles and then changing the oil. Gonna use Rotella for break in and Royal Purple for the first real oil change ( just cause I have a gallon and a half of the stuff) Link to comment
Laecaon Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 cam break in is only new cams. You are fine. Get in flog it, but keep it under 4-5k rpm. Engine braking is your friend. 2 Link to comment
maltese Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 That all sounds good, laotsu. Skip the Royal Purple though. No synthetic oil for a few thousand miles. 1 Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 oh yeah... gotta learn how to tune and sync Mikunis too but that's after startup, DIRECTLY after. Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 That all sounds good, laotsu. Skip the Royal Purple though. No synthetic oil for a few thousand miles. orlly? Good thing I bought the 2.5 gallon jug o' Rotella. Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 yep like they said ,, break in is mostly for the rings,,, mostly. it might go through oil for a bit even after the 500 oil change,, don't be too alarmed just keep an eye on it. Unless it's a huuuuge amount of course. Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 my greatest concern is A) I installed my rear main seal a little crooked B ) I drilled the dipstick hole after assemble and I'm sure there's some filings in there still C) Ima use an oil cooler that has the little ball/spring valve in the adapter so I tore the valve out of the block, which is fine but I havent setup the cooler yet so I am going to breakin without it or the adapter. Rear mainseal is my only true concern... besides having no experience doing any of this. Link to comment
laotsu Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Let's just say if this thing grenades some lucky Ratsunner (prolly skibby) is going to get a really nice truck with a bunch of nice shit on it for the price of a bus ticket to school. as you all may, or may not, I am attending college 300 miles from home and this will be my only vehicle... so if it dies I have to cut my losses. and since school starts in exactly three weeks I HAVE to finish this project I started two years ago and work out all the kinks so it can make the drive with all my shit in it. no pressure Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 What's with all the negative waves man,,,, always with the negative waves,,,,,,,,, Why don't you say something righteous and hopeful for a change?" 2 Link to comment
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