VFR800 Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Dude.... That's not even.... Idk man.... Idk Link to comment
RatVonDude Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 I have spent two fucking days trying to get the motor on it's mounts... I doubt this helps, probably seen this anyway...................... https://www.google.com/url?q=http://community.ratsun.net/topic/51244-pl510-engine-mount-bracket-left-side/&sa=U&ei=8Lv-U6G4OsrIiwK6j4CgCA&ved=0CAYQFjAA&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNHm2LlHDPdm9mJiEJLmpJAjZA-R9w Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Bolt to engine first, then to crossmember. This may be obvious to you, but I fucked up the first time. Link to comment
laotsu Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 I was hoping I had teh mounts switched. Went and looked at the L16 in my other truck, I have the right. I have tried every damn thing and I can't get both mounts on at the same time. maybe I'll go down to Home Depot and hire a migrant to help me. Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Buy a bigger hammer while you're there. Link to comment
laotsu Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 I have a BFH nowhere to hit it htat would seem to help. tinking aboot pulling teh head with the manifolds attached and trying it with a lighter load... but what to bole the hoist to? Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Fuck bolts. Weld it in already Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Post picks, this should not be an issue. I kept tension on the hoist, and when I have new engine mounts, I've had to clamp the mounts and landing tabs together sideways to line up holes. As I tighten, the rubber flexes a bit to line up holes. Try a clamp Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 As you were told before , by someone else,, usually putting the passenger side ( i believe it's the hard one to reach bolts) mount on engine,, and driver side mount on crossmember really loose and lowering engine down between them,,, then screw bolts into engine lower all the way and tighten shit up... it will work,, L20b mounts and 1600 mounts aren't the same. they look the same but they are not. 1 Link to comment
laotsu Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 That's what I've been trying the most, the drivers side mount won line up, and I'm usin a load leveller. Yeah pics tomorrow. might have to admit defeat and sell it all to PnP for bus money to college. Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 yeah my 510 had a unbalanced tire and thought about doing just that myself. The Honda civic parked inside PnP for $1499 looked awfully enticing the other day 1 Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 When you sell your car for money... Well, that's for you to decide. If you are having this much trouble, you have the wrong mounts. I drop the block in, throw a screw driver in both mounts to the crossmember holes. Then tweak the screwdriver till one hole lines up and I can get a bolt in. Then the next one, etc. Don't buy a Civic, that's bad advise. Especially if you skate. No skater I've met respects a civic. (Old ass civic wagons excluded). Get it in. I've been this frustrated many times. It just means you get to drink more beer . Link to comment
laotsu Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 see it's a Z20s block going in a 521 with L16 mounts. I think I must need L20B mounts. there's a 1980 720 at PNP, will the mounts be the same? And where teh FUCK is D-mike in all of this? he has been conspicuously silent on my recent lamentations. Link to comment
VFR800 Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 And where teh FUCK is D-mike in all of this? he has been conspicuously silent on my recent lamentations. fucker 1 Link to comment
laotsu Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 on a side note USPS is chasing it's tail trying to deliver $397.43 in textbooks to me, tracking says they went to a small town 20 miles away and then to a distribution center 50 miles away... should be delivered Friday. I think I have an enemy at the postal service. Similar kind of shit happend getting my Mikunis from Wolf Creek Racing, damn things took a week long tour of VA before getting to CA, on priority shipping. 1 Link to comment
hobospyder Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Goddamn you have issues On an unrelated note I have a dime for the weekend Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Mike might be butt hurt from an Aussie. But Google has his back: For a Z20 swap you will need a 720 truck oil pan and pick up tube at least if this Z20 is from a car. The Z20 5 speed is likely longer than the 4 speed behind your 521 motor so the driveshaft will need shrtening and the tranny mount modified. Z20 carb is on the right side so a longer throttle cable is needed. Z20 exhaust pipe is different than your L16 so something will have to be made up in order to connect to your system. Z20 engine mounts. Dual coils. Looks like the Z20 mounts are needed. And this quote was for a Z20 into a 521. Ratsun Link to comment
laotsu Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 what topic is that in? I been searching and can't find any LZ into 521 stuffs Link to comment
tr8er Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/52546-z20-swap/ Link to comment
Laecaon Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Thats for a complete Z20, with the Z head and all.... yes use Z brackets. If this is a LZ, IE L head on Z block, use L brackets... They tilt opposite ways. There are 2 different mounting locations, at least on the drivers side, for the bracket to attach to the engine. You want the lower 2 holes, not upper 2 holes. Leave the passenger on the car, driver side remove 1 bolt to frame, loosen other bolt. Lower engine to passenger stud, put nut on loosely once stud is through mount. Now you can raise and lower without the motor coming off the mount. Driver side, lower/raise until you can swivel the mount to align with the backet, drop the motor once stud can go through bracket. Next, simply hammer the mount (aim for the frame side not the bracket side) to line up to get the previously removed bolt back in. Mounts are the chunk of rubber that isolates the vibrations of the engine. Brackets are the pieces of metal that bolt to the engine and mount. 2 Link to comment
laotsu Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 YES! That is teh spoon feeding I need! Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 .... my ass is sore.... 2 Link to comment
smoke Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Did you go to the DMV? 1 Link to comment
Recommended Posts