A10's U-nite !!!!

[datsunaholic]

A spacer goes between the driveshaft flange and the diff flange, not in the middle of the driveshaft!  Pretty damn hard to break!  We use them in hydroplanes with 2000 HP engines when we have to remachine the prop-end taper on the propshaft (which makes the shaft shorter) and they hold up fine. 

[flatcat19]

Mhub...I have an auto drive line at home from a Z/A10.

I'll measure that when I get home.

[bananahamuck]

Doods really??

 

The long tail auto ( and 5speed)  is 5 3/16 inches longer than the square pan 4 speed. Soooooo without even plugging in my OTC computer code reader / analyzer or my $30,000. Sun diagnostic machine, ,,,,,,  i get ,, length of 4speed trans driveshaft.  minus 5 3/16",,,,  divide that by the goofy look on your face,,,,,, carry the 3,,,,,,

 

5 3/16 inches shorter.

[datzenmike]

 

F4W63 4 speed....... 26"

3N71B automatic..... 31.5"

 

I get 5 1/2" plus or minus 1/8" or so.

 

 

 

 

I know, that's why I need the measurements. The 71C 240sx 5 spd is a few inches longer than the 4spd that was originally in the 510. Therefore i'm wondering if the shorter auto A10 driveline would fit better than my modified one.

 

FS5W71C 5 speeds from the 240sx are way longer than the automatic. Somewhere around 34/35". (I haven't measured one properly and everyone I ask gives a different measurement.)

 

If you have the 240sx 5 speed measure it. Put a straight edge across the output where the driveshaft goes in. Measure from the bell back to a point about 9" out on the straight edge to avoid a longer slope distance.

 

If someone has a manual or auto d/s measure them between the U joint center lines for length.

[dukerollo]

Cant help with driveshaft length, but this is almost related....kinda.

 

Finally finished my raised tranny tunnel, it has either been a giant hole in the floor or half welded for the btter part of 6 months. I slapped some paint on there and once that dries I will seal the seams then insulate.

 

 

I sectioned and raised a section of the cross member underneath too. It's so nice not having the diff flange smaking the floor over every bump.

[Fat510]

Cant help with driveshaft length, but this is almost related....kinda.

 

Finally finished my raised tranny tunnel, it has either been a giant hole in the floor or half welded for the btter part of 6 months. I slapped some paint on there and once that dries I will seal the seams then insulate.

 

 

I sectioned and raised a section of the cross member underneath too. It's so nice not having the diff flange smaking the floor over every bump.

 

Is this for moar low?

[dukerollo]

Yup. But even with the 3" wedge blocks I have in the rear now, the nose of the diff would hit the tunnel under acceleration and under bump. I want another inch lower in the rear, I think I am going to rearange the spring packs.

[mhub91]

Uh oh! My driver's window wont roll up or down. Handle spins freely. Haven't pulled the door panel yet, but regardless it most likely needs a window regulator...

 

Fat510, or Hamuck.. Would you guys happen to have one?

 

Also, I'm running to the Tacoma PnP tomorrow. You guys need anything?

[dukerollo]

My window did that too. There are stupid little nuts that are embedded in the plastic in the bottom of the window glass. Mine come loose and the window fell off of the regulator.  I just sanwhiched the bracket with washers and a nut on the other side, it has been fine since. Hopefully that blather will make sense once you are looking at it.....

[datzenmike]

Yup. But even with the 3" wedge blocks I have in the rear now, the nose of the diff would hit the tunnel under acceleration and under bump. I want another inch lower in the rear, I think I am going to rearange the spring packs.

 

 

Make a pinion snub. Dodges back in the day had them. Does not affect normal suspension travel but under severe acceleration the pinion tilts upward from leaf spring wrap and can hit the tunnel. Yes you could stiffen the leaves but this may compromise the ride, or place a snub on the front of the diff or on the body where it hits. Re-enforce the contact area for sure. Some are a screw in rubber that is adjustable.

[mhub91]

My window did that too. There are stupid little nuts that are embedded in the plastic in the bottom of the window glass. Mine come loose and the window fell off of the regulator.  I just sanwhiched the bracket with washers and a nut on the other side, it has been fine since. Hopefully that blather will make sense once you are looking at it.....

No, that makes total sense. I'm the bitch-boy at work so i get all the remove + replace jobs. (I'm a toyota tech....) Infact, this is common to happen on the Toyota RAV4. The bolts come loose on the two plastic "clamps" on the bottom of the window that hold it to the regulator. This may be it... I 'll take it apart tomorrow and inspect it before I buy parts.

[mhub91]

FYI ...... I recommend properly breaking in a clutch before you beat on it.... New clutch... waited maybe 50-100 miles before really punching on it. (due to excitement, of course..) and now if I really pull on it through second gear i get a little slippage, haha oh well! got to pay to play! I'm thinking of getting a little higher performance clutch though, we'll  see! 

[bananahamuck]

My window did that too. There are stupid little nuts that are embedded in the plastic in the bottom of the window glass. Mine come loose and the window fell off of the regulator. I just sanwhiched the bracket with washers and a nut on the other side, it has been fine since. Hopefully that blather will make sense once you are looking at it.....

^^ that is probably the answer.

 

FAT-ster had the the weird inbedded nut problem also , fixed it just the same way except he drilled original nut(?) like thing  out and resused it instead of using washers..  His has came loose from the front plastic holder thing-a-ma-bob too ,,i think he used double sided tape or some kinda heavy doody glue i had laying around.

 

 

 

 

P.S. Fatboi don't sell shit.

[Fat510]

^^ that is probably the answer.

 

FAT-ster had the the weird inbedded nut problem also , fixed it just the same way except he drilled original nut(?) like thing out and resused it instead of using washers.. His has came loose from the front plastic holder thing-a-ma-bob too ,,i think he used double sided tape or some kinda heavy doody glue i had laying around.

 

 

 

 

P.S. Fatboi don't sell shit.

 

 

It still works but I can't go all the way down because it could derail from the tracks and the regulator is kinda rusty so it sucks at regulating

 

And I was going to double sided tape the plastic holder, but I didn't have any

[dukerollo]

 

Make a pinion snub. Dodges back in the day had them. Does not affect normal suspension travel but under severe acceleration the pinion tilts upward from leaf spring wrap and can hit the tunnel. Yes you could stiffen the leaves but this may compromise the ride, or place a snub on the front of the diff or on the body where it hits. Re-enforce the contact area for sure. Some are a screw in rubber that is adjustable.

The rear suspension and myself have been in an ongoing mental battle for a while now. I don't have room for a snuber under there even with the raised tunnel. The car has always had nasty spring wrap issues and the lowering blocks just gave the problem a longer lever. I (mostly) remedied this by clamping the front half of the springs ala o.g. mopar (i should get some pics). This fixed 80% of the problem and gave me a little more rate. It rides like absolute shit though. I am about done bandaiding the leaf springs and am going coils soon.

[Fat510]

You are probably pretty low I'm guessing. How much clearance do you got from ground to bottom of the car?

 

Also "going coils" like 4 link?

[dukerollo]

A few in progress pics that I just found.

 

 

and the beginnings of the cross member reinforcement

 

[dukerollo]

You are probably pretty low I'm guessing. How much clearance do you got from ground to bottom of the car?

 

Also "going coils" like 4 link?

I'd have to measure, but it is daily drivable, so not bad.

 

Like an offset 3 link, but it is still in the planning stages. I want it low, but I want it to handle and ride decently too, that's why it is taking so long.....or I just procrastinate a lot....

 

Edit: I removed the bump stop towers, that may give you a better idea of the height.

[Fat510]

I have an idea, I used to tuck 14x7 185/60s with 0 offset but raised it back up because it would eat tires

[mhub91]

Before I aimlessly browse over on OZDat for what I need, would anyone know how to improve braking and handling on the A10?

 

I've got the go-fast, but now I need the stop-fast!

 

First off, I think the number one thing to do would be to get myself some ZX struts. But the price of those are getting just down right ridiculous!

 

I've also had my eye on those nifty Techno Toy Tuning fully adjustable top hats for the ZX struts.

 

What about rear suspension? I believe I read you can use the rear springs from a S13 240sx rear strut in place of the A10 strut. What's an option for stiffer, better handling shocks for lowered A10?

[Raggleflaggle]

What are you getting for zx struts up there? In the south they part out z's like crazy. Always at least one on CL.

[flatcat19]

Shipping anything from AUS will net you a set of ZX struts. 

[bananahamuck]

In the last year we have spent on ZX struts

 

$150. for a known working set

$80. at a private crusher yard,, for a pretty good set but looks to have sat awhile

$130.-ish(?)  including tax for a set that backing plates were dented from dildos at Pick nPull dropping whole car on ground.

 

By no means spendy at all,,  considering the price of everything anymore.

 

 

 

\We would have probably picked up 2 more sets if this ding dong in Tacoma would quit calling dibs then not buying them. I won't mention any names.

[flatcat19]

if this ding dong in Tacoma would quit calling dibs...I won't mention any names.

 

 

Any one need a hood?

[robopineapple]

timing on everything looks proper on my wagon, its getting spark, getting fuel, but wont  start :( duh fuq. when i crank it, the starter sounds good but it dosnt sound like its firing at all. RAGE