dukerollo

To close the loop on this; the above works with the bigger rotor bolt pattern of the 4x4 trucks. On a 2wd truck, the biggest combo I could find without custom work was calipers and rotors off of a 1990 D21 V6. I ran the same setup on my Hardbody and am now using one on my 85 720. It is a nice improvement.

Doing this right now with 2002 Xtrerra rotor and calipers. The calipers line up, but the mounting bolts are larger and necessitate drilling the spindle holes larger. The bad news is that the rotor bolt pattern on the 02 is larger. I’m working though that puzzle right now, but it is not looking like they will work out.

I have picked up a side latch tailgate for my 720. The box is set up for a conventional center latch. The latches are easy to come by but I will likely need to fabricate the “striker” on the truck side. The reason this is posted in the 620 section is what I am after should be similar on these trucks. Could someone take some pictures of the truck side of their tailgate latches with a ruler next to them for reference. Pictures of that part are hard to find. Any help is appreciated.

I had the same problem. The thermostat was stuck open. They are cheap, give it a shot before digging deeper. My radiator cap was also bad and never venting. Also worth changing out for what they cost.

Please do keep us posted. Once I get my 720 to decent, it is getting the Sniper EFI that is on the shelf and a turbo. Interested to see how make out with it.

Glad to hear it. I vote (if it is a vote... lol) for an ld20t or a td27t. Good luck finding one though…

Still in Arkansas. I thought that I was moving and sold it. He hit a speed bump and took out the oil pan. Last I heard he is rebuilding a KA for it.

Long time no update....... The old L20b was worn when I put it in, now it is worn out. The bores are all slopped out and would need machine work to be right. It sounds funny on 3 cylinders... After I get a couple of things in order, there is a V shaped solution sitting on the engine stand in the garage. I’ll update when it gets interesting.

Here is the current setup. The air intake is temporary, and all of the fuel injection wiring is still in place, just bundled out of the way. It is a 79 L20b with a 280zx flywheel and clutch bolted to the KA24e transmission. I’m running a bypass fuel pressure regular for the Weber 38/38. I had to make a custom rear sump pan and carb spacer thing. The engine mounts needed tweaking, and I did up a distributor pedestal to use the stock 96 hardbody ignition. For being such a kluge, it works surprisingly well.

@iceman510 Do it! Get her back on the road. @]2eDeYe, the guides were still mint this time, I can’t explain what happened other than the Cloyes timing chain being junk. You can’t keep the audience in suspense about your solution....I think I have one too, but it’s pretty radical. I’ve been driving it for a couple of weeks now in this form. I’ll get some “completed” pics up soonish.

It’s a semi temporary solution. I got sick of breaking/failing timing chains. I couldn’t seem to get good aftermarket parts. OBD2 and carburetors is the new hotness. This timing set had about 1000 miles in it.

This doesn’t belong there.....

I’d say they are around 20% larger. The rotor diameter increase is not huge, but you can see by the above picture that the v6 rotors are much more massive and will be able to take more heat.

@Valvebounce1996 stock 4cyl hubs, 1990 2wd V6 rotors, pathfinder calipers. Bolts up fine. The braking plate needs to be trimmed a bit and the hoses are different, but the stock ones work.

I’ll let you know how it bolts up. But I have v6 rotors and pathfinder calipers that will be going on my ka24e truck shortly.