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My friend Tim's '77 hatchback


datsunfreak

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I don't want to take this off topic again, but are there complete pics of the seven some where? 

 

 

 Build pics, finished pics, more build pics, more finished pics, then more build pics, then more finished pics...   :rofl:

 

http://www.510garage.com/photos/thumbnails.php?album=122

 

It's been through a few different engine/intake/exhaust combos, a few different windshields, etc.

 

Like most Datsuns, It's a work in progress.   :thumbup:

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 Build pics, finished pics, more build pics, more finished pics, then more build pics, then more finished pics...   :rofl:

 

http://www.510garage.com/photos/thumbnails.php?album=122

 

It's been through a few different engine/intake/exhaust combos, a few different windshields, etc.

 

Like most Datsuns, It's a work in progress.   :thumbup:

Thanks! Now I'm in full want one mode again!

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Also, part of the initial reason for ditching the booster was to have more room for the dual sidedrafts we had on it before. In this iteration, it will also be beneficial in that it makes more room for the V8.   :thumbup:

 

yes, im wanting more room too, in case i ever decide to run su's

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since im changing to s110 rear brakes and 280zx fronts, i was thinking about getting rid of it and installing a larger master. 

 

 

280Z master is probably your best bet. The brake combo you mentioned is very common in the 510 world, and since a B210 is similar weight to a 510, I would bet their solution (280Z master) will work for you too. 

 

FYI, Tim's car actually had a 280Z master with 280ZX fronts and stock rears and the pedal was a tad firm. Swapping to the S110/S130 rears would have been just right methinks.  :thumbup:

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Got the front brake pads replaced, should get the rears in next week. 

 

Decided to make some brake line progress...

 

Tim picked up a hydraulic parking/cutting brake

crap_008~3.JPG

 

 

As you can see, Tim modified the bracket a bit to mount an adjustable proportioning valve on the side.Now you can dial in the rear bias on the fly.  :thumbup:

normal_crap_011~2.JPG

 

 

 

All bolted in and plumbed. Not the prettiest thing, but it works.   :thumbup:

crap_009~2.JPG

 

 

Hope to get the rear pads in and the brakes bled next week.  :thumbup:

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Did some clean up work, chased all the intake bolt holes with a tap to clean them out, and a few more small things...

 

Got the new valve covers on, and intake permanently installed...

 

crap_002~3.JPG

 

 

Got the carb and distributor installed...

 

normal_crap_003~3.JPG

 

 

 

 

Turns out the nice pretty chrome air cleaner that came with the kit doesn't clear the "HEI" distributor, so we'll need to pick up a smaller one for next week.  :P

 

 

Don't forget, when it comes time to build the headers, those GT40P head spark plugs come out at a different angle---much straighter than the regular SBF's. The header pipe may have to come out further to clear the spark plug before you bend the pipe.  

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Don't forget, when it comes time to build the headers, those GT40P head spark plugs come out at a different angle---much straighter than the regular SBF's. The header pipe may have to come out further to clear the spark plug before you bend the pipe.  

 

Yarp, I've been cipherin' and figgerin' on that... don't have any idea what we're going to do, but I have been thinking about it.

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Don't forget, when it comes time to build the headers, those GT40P head spark plugs come out at a different angle---much straighter than the regular SBF's. The header pipe may have to come out further to clear the spark plug before you bend the pipe.  

 

I was thinking something in a "blog hugger" style might work?

 

c60c2d6a03b6d58ec680f9d374d4b65a.jpg

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I was thinking something in a "blog hugger" style might work?

 

c60c2d6a03b6d58ec680f9d374d4b65a.jpg

 

There are some shorty headers that the Mustang guys use that will clear when they swap to the Explorer/Mountaineer heads. Probably just easier to take a measurement from the face of the gasket surface on the head to the tip of the spark plug with the boot on, and compare to a measurement on the hugger header where it bends..  

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There are some shorty headers that the Mustang guys use that will clear when they swap to the Explorer/Mountaineer heads.

 

Pic?

 

Probably just easier to take a measurement from the face of the gasket surface on the head to the tip of the spark plug with the boot on, and compare to a measurement on the hugger header where it bends..  

 

Indeed.  :thumbup:

 

Just need to find a shop that stocks some different varieties of headers.  :blush:

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Pic?

 

 

Indeed.  :thumbup:

 

Just need to find a shop that stocks some different varieties of headers.  :blush:

 

No Pic, but here is a link. Ford makes them http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-9430-p50  There might be other brands, and you may be able to beat the price. These are stainless, could get pretty hot under the Datto's hood. Might want to try ceramic coated ones. Cast would be best, but the only ones available cast/tubing are the monstrosities that came on the SUV. :w00t: !!!

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No Pic, but here is a link. Ford makes them http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-9430-p50  There might be other brands, and you may be able to beat the price. These are stainless, could get pretty hot under the Datto's hood. Might want to try ceramic coated ones.

 

Price really isn't too bad for stainless...   :thumbup:

 

fms-m-9430-p50_w.jpg

 

Cast would be best, but the only ones available cast/tubing are the monstrosities that came on the SUV. :w00t: !!!

 

I want to say Tim saw some vintage cast manifolds that looked pretty good? 

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Price really isn't too bad for stainless...   :thumbup:

 

fms-m-9430-p50_w.jpg

 

 

I want to say Tim saw some vintage cast manifolds that looked pretty good? 

 

The Mustang Hypo 289 cast headers have OK flow, but would most likely hit the spark plugs. You could always find a set of used alloy heads, as they were made for the original design angled spark plug arrangement. I know that they are reproducing the Hypo manifolds in China? The earlier 351W had similiar castings to the Hypo version, and may be easier to obtain. The stock Lopo 289-302 manifolds would have the same problem (quite restrictive also). They are definitely light and compact though. 

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