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My friend Tim's '77 hatchback


datsunfreak

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Speaking of bolts, We were short the bolts to attach the bellhousing to both the engine AND transmission today... but we DID get the hydraulic throwout bearing shimmed and "installed."  Datsunfreak otter be posting some oics soon.

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Datsunfreak otter be posting some oics soon.

 

 

Mocking up the clutch to take some measurements...

 

normal_photo1~0.JPG

 

 

Measurements done, so flywheel and clutch go on the engine...

 

normal_photo2~0.JPG

 

 

Hoses mocked up and the hose routing mapped out...

 

normal_photo3~0.JPG

 

 

 

Holes drilled through bellhousing to let the hoses out (chose to drill them right next to the strengthening ribs so as not to weaken it too much)...

 

normal_photo4.JPG

 

 

Engine just about ready to go in for the last time...

 

normal_photo5.JPG

 

 

 

You know what I hate about classic American cars versus classic Japanese cars? I can walk into any FLAPS and buy brand new motor mounts for a '66 Mustang, but try doing that for a 1200/510/620... 

 

normal_photo6.JPG

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Woo to the power of Hoo!  Lil' Wiggly has a 302 V8 in it now!  Before you ask, no it doesn't run yet, but it IS in the car.  Datsunfreak will probably post the pictures soon.  No rush buddy, just, y'know, I won't be able to sleep until they are up... sort of thing.

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Datsunfreak will probably post the pictures soon.



T-5 trans assembled and attached to the engine...

normal_crap_001~0.jpg



Final test fit of the complete assembly to see how much modification to the trans tunnel will be needed to fit the T-5...

normal_crap_003~0.jpg



Surprisingly, the T-5 shifter is only about 2" further back than the stock shifter...

normal_crap_002~0.jpg



Radiator test fit...

normal_crap_007.jpg



Lower hose looks pretty easy, just need a 70 degree elbow hose...

normal_crap_008.jpg



Other side, not so much. :crying:

Top hose sort of points right at the alternator. Either need to move the alt, modify the upper radiator outlet, or just give up and buy another radiator...

normal_crap_009.jpg



At this point we took it all back out, installed the new motor mounts, modified the tunnel slightly for clearance on the T-5, then bolted it all back in. :thumbup:

Still need to make a trans mount, but for the most part, it's in there for good. :wub:

normal_crap_010.jpg



Right side header clearance looks tight but doable. Left side header clearance (around the steering gearbox) is going to be difficult at best. :blush:

But we shall sort it out I have no doubt. :thumbup:

So, in short, the trans fit in the tunnel way easier than I expected (only had to trim some metal off the stock trans mount "humps" and cut the shifter hole back), and the engine fits in the car way better than I thought it would. Other than driver's side header clearance, there's room for everything we need to make it run.

We did find out the hard way that the Summit air filter we had purchased for it does not clear the hood. We'll either need a shorter filter element (and that's wishful thinking), or some sort of snorkel to relocate the filter over to the side.

We'll either use something like this (cheap option):

000799545bd72cb6e344e5af74ee4263.jpg



Or something like this (better option):

air-intake-with-white-filter.jpg



We'll see which one Tim chooses in our next installment... B)
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T-5 trans assembled and attached to the engine...

 

normal_crap_001~0.jpg

 

 

 

Final test fit of the complete assembly to see how much modification to the trans tunnel will be needed to fit the T-5...

 

normal_crap_003~0.jpg

 

 

 

Surprisingly, the T-5 shifter is only about 2" further back than the stock shifter...

 

normal_crap_002~0.jpg

 

 

 

Radiator test fit...

 

normal_crap_007.jpg

 

 

 

Lower hose looks pretty easy, just need a 70 degree elbow hose...

 

normal_crap_008.jpg

 

 

 

Other side, not so much. :crying:

 

Top hose sort of points right at the alternator. Either need to move the alt, modify the upper radiator outlet, or just give up and buy another radiator...

 

normal_crap_009.jpg

 

 

 

At this point we took it all back out, installed the new motor mounts, modified the tunnel slightly for clearance on the T-5, then bolted it all back in. :thumbup:

 

Still need to make a trans mount, but for the most part, it's in there for good. :wub:

 

normal_crap_010.jpg

 

 

 

Right side header clearance looks tight but doable. Left side header clearance (around the steering gearbox) is going to be difficult at best. :blush:

 

But we shall sort it out I have no doubt. :thumbup:

 

So, in short, the trans fit in the tunnel way easier than I expected (only had to trim some metal off the stock trans mount "humps" and cut the shifter hole back), and the engine fits in the car way better than I thought it would. Other than driver's side header clearance, there's room for everything we need to make it run.

 

We did find out the hard way that the Summit air filter we had purchased for it does not clear the hood. We'll either need a shorter filter element (and that's wishful thinking), or some sort of snorkel to relocate the filter over to the side.

 

We'll either use something like this (cheap option):

 

000799545bd72cb6e344e5af74ee4263.jpg

 

 

 

Or something like this (better option):

 

air-intake-with-white-filter.jpg

 

 

 

We'll see which one Tim chooses in our next installment... B)

 

 

The second one (better option) would be my pick, as it would help get some cooler air into the carb and still provide added hood clearance. A few louvers in the hood might help as well. I have seen a few of those cheaper Edelbrock made in China triangular air cleaners catch fire over the years.

:rofl:

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New Volkswagen VR6 radiator and Spectre low profile carb top hat thingy are en route as we... speak?  I'm sure I'll be making a bunch of racecar noises in the thing this Saturday... since I won't be at JCCS like someone I know.

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Bought a pair of Explorer/Mountaineer zorst maniflods on the way home from work today.  I can't remember (and am far too lazy to go back and look) if we told y'all that we are planning to use those units backwards for clearance reasons.  Datsunfreak wanted the tubular steel guys so we could re-clock outlet of the driver's side but after looking at my options online, I couldn't get past just how UGLY they were.  The cast units are much prettier so I went with them.  Yes, Dimlight65 chose form over function this one time.  Get over it!

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Bought a pair of Explorer/Mountaineer zorst maniflods on the way home from work today.  I can't remember (and am far too lazy to go back and look) if we told y'all that we are planning to use those units backwards for clearance reasons.  Datsunfreak wanted the tubular steel guys so we could re-clock outlet of the driver's side but after looking at my options online, I couldn't get past just how UGLY they were.  The cast units are much prettier so I went with them.  Yes, Dimlight65 chose form over function this one time.  Get over it!

Block huger headers will not work?

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Bought a pair of Explorer/Mountaineer zorst maniflods on the way home from work today.  I can't remember (and am far too lazy to go back and look) if we told y'all that we are planning to use those units backwards for clearance reasons.  Datsunfreak wanted the tubular steel guys so we could re-clock outlet of the driver's side but after looking at my options online, I couldn't get past just how UGLY they were.  The cast units are much prettier so I went with them.  Yes, Dimlight65 chose form over function this one time.  Get over it!

 

 

Heads up on the cast version. The cast iron manifold will have a tighter, leak free fit, as well as keep the engine compartment cooler. I've seen the cast iron 5.0 version of the Exploder/Mountaineer, and some think it's weird looking, but I could have used a piece like that back in the day to solve many a swap clearance problem.  B)

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No, if you scroll up and look at the pictures "Final test fit of the complete assembly..." and "Radiator test fit" you can just almost, but not quite, make out that the starter (which isn't in the picture by the way) and steering box prevent anything with a rear exit from fitting.  We need the rear two cylinders to go up and forward... which the Exploder maniflods will do if installed backwards.  

 

Oops, in editing this, I screwed up the "quote" portion of the program somehow.  My reply is to the following: "Block huger headers will not work?"

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Heads up on the cast version. The cast iron manifold will have a tighter, leak free fit, as well as keep the engine compartment cooler. I've seen the cast iron 5.0 version of the Exploder/Mountaineer, and some think it's weird looking, but I could have used a piece like that back in the day to solve many a swap clearance problem.  B)

Good to know my purely aesthetic decision has some merit!  

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Well, it turns out the gubbins we made to go between the Ford motor mounts and the Datsun frame weren't quite as strong as they should have been.  When I got to the shop to play with the zorst maniflods I discovered the engine had sunk down and the front pulley was resting on the crossmember.  Not to worry though, I think I have a solution.  Unfortunately it means the engine might have to come out again.  The manifolds look like they are going to work though... except that the outlet of the driver's side points straight at the oil pressure sender.  I've cut down the extension piece to fix that problem but have to wait until we have 220v in the new shop so I can hook up the welder and zook it back together.  The VW VR6 radiator might work but I'm going to hold off until Datsunfreak has a chance to grok it.  Finally, for this post at least, the Spectre carburetor top hat thingy is really cool... but I think the K&N one I have will flow more air. I will also wait for D-freak's opinion before making a final decision there.

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