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Is there any reason I can't road trip 1000+ miles?


greengoon

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Anybody who knows me knows that I'm more into suspension and body than anything. I can keep an engine running and can figure most things out eventually but engines are not my strong point.

 

I'm just wondering if there is anything I should know, any signs I should watch for before undertaking a road trip with my goon? She runs good so I figure why the hell not? I will bring tools. Here's what I have:

 

I've had the wagon for 10 years now. Stock L16. I have put about 6,500 miles on it. The previous owner had put on a new carb and electric choke. The car is garaged and starts right up in the winter, even after sitting for 2 weeks or more. I drive it on sub 30 degree days and it does just fine. It prefers 60 degree weather but does fine in all temps. Over the years I have replaced the alternator, plugs and the ignition components with the same stock stuff (not electronic).

 

When I got it someone had put one of those spark plug spacers (fowling issue?) on one of the cylinders but I have since removed it. Haven't looked at my plugs lately but the last time I did they looked normal. I have not done a compression test but it seems to have the proper (ie: slow :D ) power for an L16. It barely leaks or burns any oil. The tail pipe is a little black so it could be a tad rich but it doesn't smell that way.

 

I can't remember it ever leaving me stranded. I've taken it on around town 30ish mile trips. I took it down to Moab years ago (500 mile round trip) and I drove it down from Seattle when I bought it (850 miles). Other than that its been reliable around town transportation.I have a dogleg 5 speed that I'm planning on putting in to replace the stock 4 speed so that should make it more livable at freeway speeds.

 

Maybe I'm just cautious but it is a Datsun. If I maintain it properly will it just keep going? Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!

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i don't know much about datsuns, but i'm no stranger to old cars. if you take it on a road trip and you're on a hurry it'll leave you stranded.

 

if you're planning to get there when you get there, you'll get there early.

 

check all the fluids, change as necessary. check plugs, bring a set of points/condenser. air up the tires properly, and go. maybe sign up for AAA premium with the 200 mile tow before you go

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in all my experience l motors are the most resilent motors.. but then again my only other four cylinder is a mazda's b2200 ford motor... im on my fourth one of those...and am about to say fuck it and put a l 20/ka in it...as far as l16s i have taken a few oout of the junkyard and sitting for years and they have served me well. all i do is change oil and make sure t don't leak out cause they dont burn oil or leak...

 

but wow u drove a 4 sp back from Seattle....i would have bought the cheapest 20's just to get the rpm's down...to drive that far... but obviously sell them immediately after long trip...

 

by the way i love your goon and its has been one of my favs and if it were mine i would buck it everywhere...i hope my goon turns out half as nice...

 

love the yota too my friend has one and i had never seen another one till i seen yours ... love the 92's and stance...

 

but one thing i would do is go match box... before anything else.. i couldn't believe how much smoother and nicer running it was after i put one on my l 16 521.... it ran like it was injected...

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check everything over carefully before you go, if there are any decent shops or dealerships offering a full inspection with an oil change for cheap, might not be a bad idea. Most shops will try and sell work, so a decent shop will look for anything wrong relatively carefully. If everything looks good, and no major concerns are found, triple A or a towing plan of some kind is good, and know what shops you would take it to at 200 mile or so intervals along your journey(if you don't have the time or money to get AAA, you can see if a friend who does will ride along with you, the premium plans will provide roadside assistance for anyone with the policy, even if they are in a friends car).

 

Check the car over carefully, if it is good, service it, drive it a couple days and watch it closely before the trip. When you drive it, leave PLENTY of time, do not push the car hard to get it to your destination, keep RPMs low, and check all the fluids when you stop to get gas. Some spare parts might not hurt to bring, especially if they are things that the average auto parts store doesn't have(for example, if I take my wagon anywhere, you can bet I am bringing a spare distributor ignition module). A basic tool box and leaving plenty of time for delays is a must when taking any project car on a long trip...I learned that from my own experiences and from reading project car mags when I was 16...it still seems to hold true with my datsun no matter how many new parts I hang from it.

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I finished the 5th cross country tip on my L28 in my 280zx. Funny thing is the first time I had a was this last trip and it was because one of my wheel bearings decided to seize. Luckily it was at the last 100 miles. I would just be wary of old rubber tubes cracking from the constant heat. Change those out.

 

If your L motor can drive 30 min at freeway speeds, it will take you cross country.

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When you put the 5speed in,, the freeway driving difference is night and day..I have a stock 4speed and we installed a dogleg 5 into my brothers last summer and since we trade back and forth when we`re cruzing around, his car on the freeway is so much easier on the driver.....Both cars are L16s

 

BUT...having typed all that i personally hate the dogleg ,,hate the weird pattern,

..I like running the 4speed the only thing I don`t like is being able to open glove box while shifting into 3rd,, on the second or third try at finding it..biggrin.gif

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When you put the 5speed in,, the freeway driving difference is night and day..I have a stock 4speed and we installed a dogleg 5 into my brothers last summer and since we trade back and forth when we`re cruzing around, his car on the freeway is so much easier on the driver.....Both cars are L16s

 

BUT...having typed all that i personally hate the dogleg ,,hate the weird pattern,

..I like running the 4speed the only thing I don`t like is being able to open glove box while shifting into 3rd,, on the second or third try at finding it..biggrin.gif

 

I have a newer 4 speed in my wagon right now from a 1980 510...it is fine even with the low gears in my wagon as long as I don't plan on going over 65mph. At 65mph+ the rpms are over 2300, and the whole car becomes very noisy. I would not want to drive that far at more than 2200rpm.

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I have a newer 4 speed in my wagon right now from a 1980 510...it is fine even with the low gears in my wagon as long as I don't plan on going over 65mph. At 65mph+ the rpms are over 2300, and the whole car becomes very noisy. I would not want to drive that far at more than 2200rpm.

 

Try 700 miles at 3500RPM in a 4-speed truck. Or 4000RPM... there were stretches I was drafting Semis at 80.

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The L-16 engine is not really happy at 2200 RPM. It is an OHC small four cylinder, not a domestic V8. The torque peak on a stock L-16 is around 3600 RPM, max horsepower is almost 6000 RPM.

 

I used to tow a two horse trailer in the Pacific Northwest, with a 521, L-16 engine, and later an L-18 engine. Towing a heavy load like that, you must keep the RPM between 3K, and 5K, cruising. When accelerating, I needed between 4k, and 6K.

One time I was towing a trailer down the Columbia gorge, and had to run in second gear, (four speed) at over 5000 RPM, about 35 miles per hour, close to wide open. I got around 11 miles to a gallon, going against the wind.

 

The point is, the L-16 likes to rev. Let it.

 

I agree after about 30 miles on the road, there is really not much difference between 30 miles, 300 miles or 3000 miles. Do all the normal preventative maintenance before you leave for the trip. Make note of any fluid losses, and take care of them. Check the oil level in the transmission, and rear end, and obviously the engine. Do a tune up. Replace the spark plugs. Replace the cap and rotor, and wires if they are old. Put in a new air filter. Check the water level in the battery.

 

Check the oil level every time you get gas. Check the coolant level in the radiator, when the system is not hot. you can squeeze the upper radiator hose, to see it is has pressure, before removing the radiator cap.

 

Compared to a modern car, you have to do a lot of preventative maintenance on an old Datsun. but if you do, it should be fine.

 

But carry tools. In my experience, carrying tools make it unnecessary to have them. Leave them at home, and you will need them.

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In the late 70's me & my buddys drove my 68 4door to Florida for spring break. I had every tool in the trunk to rebuild the car on the highway. Every gas stop, checked the oil and coolant, no big deal. cruised at 70mph all day long, around 3.5K rpm or so, just make sure you got good hoses, rad & heater core and all the little bullshit parts that can leave you stranded. If the motors going to blow up, it was wasted to begin with.

 

This car went to fla, watkins glen - twice, mosport park, tennessee & a bevy of times to mid ohio/columbus.

 

The only thing that dicked me, was (still able to fix it with the crap I hauled around) I had an aftermarket oil guage that had a plastic hose off the engine that failed. After that, I learned my lesson and replaced the hose with aeroquip.

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I have driven my stock L16 tired motor from sacramento calif to canby oregon 900 plus miles lost rear brake cylenders on the way home but was able to fill master and continue home drove on a 300 mile fun run before fixing wheel cylinders

then we drove 900 plus mile trip to Las Vegas for a car show both trips with a 4 speed consistent drive at 70 MPH 4000 RPM and about 24 MPG if you drive it daily it should make the trip fine just check all fluids at all fuel stops

keep an eye on temp aluminum heads dont like HEAT

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Wow! This is awesome info guys. Thanks! Very confidence boosting. I'm gonna drive the crap out of it now. Looks like I will be researching more on electronic ignition. I had Pertronix on an old Volkswagen Notchback a long time ago and loved it. When the points went out in the Datsun, I just picked up some Napa parts cause I didn't want to wait for parts in the mail.

 

I towed the wagon to SoCal for JCCS in '10. Looks like it will make it under its own power this year. :D Maybe even down to the BRE open house in Vegas on April 7th too.

 

And I totally identify with the "insurance policy" of bringing tools and parts with you on a trip. It almost guarantees you won't need them.

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Wow! This is awesome info guys. Thanks! Very confidence boosting. I'm gonna drive the crap out of it now. Looks like I will be researching more on electronic ignition. I had Pertronix on an old Volkswagen Notchback a long time ago and loved it. When the points went out in the Datsun, I just picked up some Napa parts cause I didn't want to wait for parts in the mail.

 

I towed the wagon to SoCal for JCCS in '10. Looks like it will make it under its own power this year. :D Maybe even down to the BRE open house in Vegas on April 7th too.

 

And I totally identify with the "insurance policy" of bringing tools and parts with you on a trip. It almost guarantees you won't need them.

 

 

My post wasn't meant to encourage you to use aftermarket ignition, simply to make sure you have back up parts for anything hard to source. surprisingly enough, I have found lots of parts are still available for the L series, and not nearly as many for the naps Z24, at least that parts places carry on their shelves or even one day away (in California, ect.). That was why I commented on the ignition module, they don't have them readily available for the 8 plug Z24 distributor, and the ones that are around are usually back east and cost a fortune. I would trust a Nissan part any day over most aftermarket ignition products. That being said, if you have spares of anything, toss them in a box next to a small toolbox before you head over.

 

I know these cars tend to be pretty reliable, but caution never hurts when you are dealing with a 40 year old car. A cell phone and toolbox are a must, and things like a JB Weld Stick, duct tape, Permatex Right Stuff, wire, and a few assorted metric bolts are a good addition to the toolbox. Worst case scenario you were over prepared and your car makes the 1k mile trip with no problems :)

 

NOTE: My comment about keeping RPM's low...sure L series like to scream, but I haven't seen anything from Nissan saying to run them at 3.5k-4k RPM all day long. Maybe they would be fine, I am limited on my Nissan experience, but most engines target RPM range for cruising is lower than that...I am sure that is where their powerband is, but he was asking how to make sure his car lasts a 1k mile trip, not how to get the most power when towing a trailer. My statement about RPM's was to the people gagging at the thought of a long trip without a 5 speed, and that with my 4 speed I can keep the RPM's low even when cruising @ 65mph.

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every three weeks I do a 1000mile trip in my Hardbody with L18 motor. It's usually loaded with 1000lbs, plus a trailer about 400lbs. I take water, oil, spare coil, condensors, fan belt, fuel filter and a full tool box. I cruise at around 60mph. No problems yet, but I watch the oil pressure, oil and water temp real careful. Before each trip I get under the truck, check everything, including wheel nuts, tyres, oil levels.

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I put 500K miles on 2 620's using 3 engines " in the day". My wife and I just drove a 75 620 from Las Vegas to Iowa a couple of years ago. Stock L18 with 120K on it. Just nicely broke in!!!. Only problem was points closing up because DPO had no lube on the points cam. Easily fixed. I did have a tool bag and enough experience with these to not be afraid of them. BTW cruiseing speed was about 70mph.

 

Kurt.

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Looks like it will make it under its own power this year. :D Maybe even down to the BRE open house in Vegas on April 7th too.

:thumbup:

 

all the above and take long breaks.

 

 

ive taken longer trips through mexico on the stock L16.

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If your car is reliable there is NO REASON you shouldn't be able to do a 1000 mile road trip in your 510. Just this last September I drove mine from St. Louis to California for the JCCS and got the farthest driven award. I drove it 2081 miles one way, just to get to the show and my car is an AUTOMATIC and I STILL RUN POINTS!!!

 

Make sure your car is in good order, take some extra oil with you and some basic spare parts just in case of an emergency, (alternator, voltage regulator,starter, cap, rotor, spark plugs, belt, hoses, brake fluid, spare tire) and a set of tools. That way, if the worst happens, your prepared. Parts a cheap for these cars, but are usually a couple days wait at the parts store, so I always take spares with me on the road. I have a plastic tote bin that I put in the trunk that is loaded up with the above parts, so it's ready to go. :P

 

The one piece of advice I can give you if you take the trip is to take your time. Keep your speed down and make your engine happy. I drove all the way to California doing about 60-65mph and got 26 miles to the gallon all the way there and back. :D :D :D

 

Enjoy :D

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for all the advice everyone! I put the dogleg 5 speed in, changed out a rear wheel cylinder, changed the oil, checked everything and did an 850+ mile round trip to Vegas and back this last weekend for the BRE Open House. Car ran great, stayed cool and we were doing 70-75 the whole way. I appreciate all of the advice but the best advice of all was to not be in a hurry and be prepared.

 

The only issue the car had was this: about a mile away from a planned food stop in St. George (about 4 hours from home) my temperature started to sky rocket. Got off the exit, checked everything out and found that my heater hose had relaxed enough to sag and come in contact with my exhaust manifold and spring a leak. We taped it up with metal tape, put some coolant in and limped it to Auto Zone for a splice. I was fortunate it happened in town and not crossing the desolate part of Arizona.

 

The previous owner had looped the heater hose up above the valve cover and put one of those flush ports in. I just never did anything with it but now I'm going to remove it and route the hoses to their proper location. I learned a lot this trip and will not hesitate to do it again.

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Unlike people, engines never get tired. They do not need a rest after climbing a hill. Once the motor is warmed up wear and tear is minimal. Driving 1,000 miles puts less wear on it than 200 cold starts and running 5 miles to work with the choke on. Engines could run for ever non stop as long as they have gas oil and water in them.

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Granted my car wasnt "tired", but driving a total of 1800 miles Placerville CA-->Canby-->Grants pass--> disk around southern oregon-->back to placerville

 

I chucked a wheel bearing (which were ORIGINAL to the 280ZX struts i installed) and lost a fan clutch from an el cheapo reman water pump.

 

I call that a victory.

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I have bought quite a few cars a long ways from home and I've never had a problem driving them home. I drove a 150k mile Mk II Supra 2500 miles home from San Diego, a '76 280Z 750 miles home from Atlanta, a 150k mile '81 BMW 320is home from Atlanta, and a horrid '75 280Z 200 miles home. That one was the worst. The car was a rotten $500 parts car, but it made it home.

 

I figure if you can drive it for 30 minutes straight without breaking down, it will go across the country.

 

I did break down once on a cross country road trip in an old Toyota 4x4, but that was because the highway was flooded and I shorted the alternator. I replaced it in a parking lot and finished my trip.

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