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K Appley

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About K Appley

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Dakota
  • Cars
    620 pickups A engines in brit cars
  • Interests
    Sports cars, antique guns, motorcycles
  1. Time Left: 18 days and 2 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a DCOE manifold for a oval port A series as well as a A 15 crankshaft.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    , Iowa

  2. You would, of course, require a outside pressure regulated fuel pressure regulator! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Metro-Turbo-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-ERA-MG-Malpassi/133193502068?hash=item1f02f38d74:g:oLgAAOSwe~NamC7R
  3. The amount of air moving through the venturi is what determines how much fuel is required so I would think that all you are doing is forcing more air through. I would think the mixture requirements and therefore the jetting would stay the same.
  4. Balance pressure for the float bowl is taken right at the inlet flange. I wouldn't think it would be difficult at all. If your float bowl is sealed and you can feed it the same pressure as whats in your manifold and you have infinetly adjustable jets wheres the problem? Kurt
  5. I have a AMR 500 that has been sitting around now for years. Intended to fit it to a A engine that I have swapped into a Sprite or Midget but just can't really find the room for it. I intended on fitting it to the alternator side of the engine and moving the alternator. That would allow a cross over inter cooler and give a blow through carb set up. I've heard that you don't want the carb too far from the engine for a number of reasons. Throttle lag and possible pooling of fuel in the system on cold days. I planned on using a blow through SU set up as the MG Turbo Metro used. Setting up a HIF 44 SU for blow through isn't difficult. When thinking of adding boost you need to think about how much your effective compression ratio will go up. There is info on that on several sites. Also remember that the faster you turn a small supercharger the more heat you add to the air. A low speed larger unit adds less so if you can use an inter cooler that would be best.
  6. I've got a AMR 500 that I've had for years. My intention was to fit it to one of my A swaps into a Mg Midget or AH Sprite. Not as much room as in the B210 or 210 so haven't got around to it. Have studied up a bit though. With that long suck through installation shown you will get more throttle lag than with a blow through arrangement. Also with a small supercharger much over geared you will get more heat than with a larger blower at a lower speed. If you design a blow through system you could fit the supercharger to the other side of the car. Say where the alternator is now and move that anywhere it will fit. With such a design fitting a big intercooler would be simple. A blow through SU setup was used on the MG turbo Metro and isn't hard to set up. That is what I had planned on using. Big boost works best on low compression engines. Quite a bit of info on the internet about supercharging and you will want to determine your effective compression with boost and what you will have to run for fuel.
  7. Grab it, strip the DCOE's off it and put it on flea bay!
  8. OH, OH, OH, I want to do a Hayabusa swap! How do I hook it up to a Datsun box???? Kurt
  9. Epoxy would be a good idea. I have Threebond. Was hopeing a former Datsun mechanic with personal experience would be able to give me the factory recommendation!😊 Kurt
  10. I have a factory rebuilt A 14 that I purchased on flea bay years ago and am finally going to use it. The question I have is how to fit the water intake pipe. The rebuild's came with the pipe removed. Is it just a interference fit or should it be fitted with some special sealer? I was thinking maybe some loc tite. Kurt
  11. That's good to know since the first A series I put together was a auto trans engine and I fitted a manual trans flywheel.
  12. Well, Mike I guess I misspoke. I know the flywheel and front pulley have balancing holes drilled in them and assumed they were externally balanced. Never less, balancing everything as a unit would be a good idea in my opinion.
  13. S M, the picture you show is the single pulley. I have cut down three now and they are cast and easy to cut and machine. Never fitted with a harmonic balancer and if balance is a concern the best way to address that is to have your entire rotating assembly balanced by your machine shop. Crank, front pulley, and flywheel plus clutch assembly. That is the way they were done at the factory. I don't believe the crank was separately balanced. The front pulley isn't a concern for balance IMO but the crank and flywheel are. The flywheel is particularly heavy and lightening it for better performance isn't a bad idea. Afterwords balancing the assembly would be a good idea.
  14. Well, everything at the rear of this 5 speed looks OK. It has been disassembled but not by me. I'll have to look it over carefully but I believe the layshaft and gears look pretty nasty. Kurt
  15. I'm wondering if the experts here can tell me if it's worth pursuing obtaining a 60 four speed transmission to swap in the fifth overdrive parts out of a junk five speed. Haven't really looked into it but just had a thought. Kurt
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