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About docbainey

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    75 610, RIP 68 510 4dr, 73 610 Hdtp, 71 510 goon, 72 510 4 dr

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  1. If you got the cash these bits from Troy Ermish might just be the ticket. His latest offering comes with the companion flanges and diff stub axels to eliminate the adapters. https://www.ermish-racing.com/rear-suspension
  2. Noll, Your tenacity on this project is awesome! The 160 diff??? 510s tear those things up all the time. How long do think it will last before it becomes a steel blender?
  3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKr6Z5qk-uM
  4. It don't help. Had to go out into the garage to see what it should look like. You are missing a pretty good chunk! Lay the water pump gasket on there. Your throwing money at this thing. I'd try and find a good frnt cover. But it worked before sooo?
  5. Stof, that was for race motors? Should have been a little clearer. The big gig in the 70s was to cross drill. My only experience is with the U20 then. Talking with Tilton in the day that was the way to go and of course enlarging the oil feed. We even enlarged the main oil gallery among other things. That crank was hard sht, had to use cobalt drills. Could spin that bitch to 8500 consistently 9K if needed. Telltale tachs don't lie, especially when the driver cant get to the reset button!
  6. Did you still cross drill # 2 & 4 crank journals? Any experience with after market cranks like Moldex or Callies? Thnx Stof!
  7. shoot, I thought this was a race car topic
  8. don't now about the rest of the world, in the states that's a 73-74 rear bumper, same thing with the front fenders. depending on where the car is actually from it could be a 180B aka 610 in the usa. look for the model / vin # stamped into the cowl sheet metal to the right of the windshield wiper motor, 2dr hardtop body / trim parts are as rare as hens teeth. The door cards have been replaced. By the way. I party with serbs in the new era restaurant, family owned since the late 30s, house of paprikash. as they say there are serbians and those that wish they where Serbian. hot women, party anima
  9. Just by chance did you inspect the rubber donut that's in-between the steering shaft and the steering box for rot? There is a failsafe pin to keep the car steering in case of failure but you will have huge slop whether the steering wheel is straight or at full lock. If you maxed out the wear adjustment with the wheels straight, it should be pretty hard to turn to full lock. The wear is typically in the straight ahead area of the worm and sector.
  10. docbainey

    L20 swap for 510

    If you want a less expensive option than mikunis 46mm SUs will add to the spirited drive. Be prepared for machining, welding and fabricating though.
  11. Good luck finding a 610 or 710 box. Datzenmike probably has a couple 710 boxs squirrelled away 😂 try maybe car-part.com I think it is
  12. Looks like either of these places have the idler gear and the striking rod. Id start with jp-carparts. I believe you do an inquiry first, they make sure they have parts available then you pay. (I've never used jp) Amayama will say they have the parts, want money up front, then sometimes they cant get the parts and leave you with a credit. (personal experience) Shipping from Japan is not cheap, but hey brand new parts! The last place sells used parts and is in Oregon, never dealt with them. https://jp-carparts.com/ https://www.amayama.com/en http:
  13. JDH6, You should be able to use late 510 calipers. Its much beefier then the original 510 caliper. Did this to my 610 with 13" wheels. You will need the larger disk also. Scroll about 2/3rds down the first page, https://ratsun.net/topic/66155-olde-skool-610/
  14. If your looking at buying a fair amount of tuning parts for your Weber's, you might want to consider sourcing out of the UK. https://www.burtonpower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ram+pipes https://www.burtonpower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=weber+jets https://www.burtonpower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=weber+emulsion+tubes
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