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About docbainey

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    75 610, RIP 68 510 4dr, 73 610 Hdtp, 71 510 goon, 72 510 4 dr

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  1. Maybe use something like these for your piston oilers? https://zzperformance.com/products/piston-oil-squirters-gen-2
  2. After looking at your roadster thread and realizing your never going to cut the windshield off to make a proper race car, I take it you're not going track racing but going to run those rich people things on public roads , the Mille things? Last run in 1957? In Italy? Wayne Carini comes to mind. Nothing wrong with that. Heat shielding under the carbs and maybe header wrap, get rid of the rubber fuel lines unless you want to see your car burn to the ground, better yet relocate the fuel lines to the back of the engine compartment not routed on the engine, there's probably a fuel return line that's been butchered out of site unless your car is pre smog, put in an electric rad fan, get your radiator boiled out and bypass your heater core, you're in California after all, what do you need a heater for? just one less thing to fail. Make sur the coolant overflow system is up to snuff. The hood does have a functional scoop, but the limited airflow goes to the top of the rad. Get a custom cross flow rad and then you can take advantage of the hood. But if you don't deal with the oiling issues and the other engine 'opportunities', it will all be for not, but California road crap, its probably all good. Doubt you'll be turning over 6K. U20s eat rod bearings with out proper mods when revd, and the over square short rod U20 with big valves begs to be revd. One good thing, doubt you'll ever break the crank! Don't louvre the hood. You already fd it up drilling holes in it. Just my 2cents.
  3. Campaigned a DP 2000 in the late 70s early 80s. Never had that problem. Maybe if your sitting in traffic, but then you aren't racing. Like Mike said, need a really good heat shield between the carbs & exhaust, bond some insulation to it, bring it over to the inner fender panel. Re-route your gas lines, right now you have them sitting over the header. Find away to bring fresh air in. If your insistence on fkng the hood up, just put the louvers over the carbs facing forward. At that point who cares about aesthetics. You'd probably be better off putting in a naca duct. Depending on what vintage racing association you plan on competing in, louvers could be a no no, not period correct after all.
  4. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Research piston guided rods. Low cost solution to your dilemma. Durability? Well they last for at least 500 miles in CRASHCAR!
  5. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Should probably clarify that the frictional losses are on side clearance, not the pin bearing surfaces.
  6. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Those rods are for either a RB30 - 6.0010" long with a big end width of 0.8580" or a VG30 - 6.0630" long with BE width of 0.8170". Both have the same big end dia as L series, VG does have a 22mm pin though Vs 21.02mm for the RB which is the same as L series. http://pauter.com/parts/rods/infiniti-nissan/
  7. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    We used to spin a lot of bearings with stock rods, they didn't have a small enough dia on the big end, even though they where at factory dimensions. Had our Carrillo rods made a touch small on the big end, then blued the bearings to look for to much crush. Adjusted accordingly, also don't overlook side clearance to your crank. Can always take material off, its a bitch to try and put it back! The piston guided rod thing is used in all CRASHCAR motors & I believe Mercedes road cars. Severely cuts down on frictional loses. Instead of having 360deg frictional losses on the crank pin, you only have minor angular losses on the piston pin dia.
  8. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Carrillo made our U-20 rods back in the late 70s. Sent them a rod and basic dwg to show what dimensions we wanted. If I remember, about $150 a pop back then. Bitches would hold to together @ 9K +, over a 100gms lighter then stock. I'd still look at the piston guided rod option if you can find bearings. Just need a good Bridgeport & lathe and somebody who knows what they're doing. A place in Georgia, I believe, can do it for you. Sht Wiseco should be able to do the machine work on the pistons. Just a matter of making precision pin spacers. I don't think you use spirolox to hold the pin in but use Teflon bushings.
  9. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    What about the con rod journals?
  10. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Is KA crank pin dia the as same L? If so, options are to weld crank pin journal sides to decrease side clearance then regrind crank again or machine your pistons and add spacers/bushings whatever you want to call them to use piston guided rods.
  11. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Those are L series bearings. Mine have the same tang all the way out to the side, 3 different manufactures, Perfect Circle, Vandervell & Clevite. I'd measure the big end thickness to see if that is the same width as the crank pin. Just looking at the bearing to big end thickness I would say the rod is to narrow to be a Z20 rod, maybe KA? Thought it kinda weird that you could find aftermarket Z-20 rods.
  12. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Bastard, shame on you for not knowing your crank was bent to begin with. You should have basic EQ at your disposal to figure that out before sending it out for rework. You're putting trust in somebody to follow verbal instructions? The very least, the job should have some basic engineering drawings to eliminate tolerance stacking and such and in you case, thrust bearing clearance. In your instance, the drawing would have shown the nominal dimension with tolerance and some perpendicularity sht for the thrust flat relative to the journal. If it's bent, your connecting rod side clearance is jacked also, since they couldn't figure out the thrust bearing dimension, and, nothing good typically happens when increasing rod side clearance on Datsun motors. Stoff could probably add to that.
  13. Try Fair Auto & Truck parts in Englewood http://www.fairautoparts.com/ They show 3, $25ea
  14. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Stoff, you've been so polite. I cant help it. Bastard, so what racing series class' are you going to build racing L motors for? Or are you just doing machine work that customers ask for? The pictures of the engine geometry stuff that you showed is in spiral bound media? Basic kinematics, nothing ground changing there. And I get your automotive machinist age thing, and its not just automotive machining either. Try and find somebody who can set up and run a horizontal boring mill for a one off part. Oh, and the 50 hp increase for milling a trough in the Honda pistons? I'm sure you meant 5 hp. Most Honda engines are 2.0 L
  15. SANYCO? Maybe Sumitomo? Sparco is an Italian company started in the late 70s that basically produces safety EQ, not brake systems'. If, big if, if they did produce these, Japanese car instead of Italian? I'm sure they have burned any trace. Jezuz, was that thing rolling around in mud with no wheels?!?!!
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