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About docbainey

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    75 610, RIP 68 510 4dr, 73 610 Hdtp, 71 510 goon, 72 510 4 dr

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  1. Your like eight hours from England! There are a plethora of racing equipment shops at your disposal. Find a low pressure Facet pump. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/knowledge_base_articles/view/facet-fuel-pumps-for-vehicles-running-carburettors-282 https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/ https://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-category/fuel-system/fuel-pumps-carburettor.html
  2. if the motor runs get it hot then drain the oil and change the filter. Get a can or two of stp, dump it in with kerosene, run it for a while, don't let it idle and don't blast it, drain and replace filter, then change filter after a few hundred miles. Neighbor did this to some American iron when I was growing up. Did this to my audi coupe to try and eliminate the all to common lifter tick. Didn't work, but the sht that drained out was like tar. Gotta have the engine hot.
  3. Get a gallon of kerosene and a container big enough to put the head in and scrub scrub scrub. Parts cleaner brush works well or old tooth brushes to get rid of grunge. Scrape the gasket surfaces with a razor blade. I've used those cheap storage bins before. Kero don't seem to melt them. In your case turn the cam to get to different areas. Don't poor all the kero in at once. You gotta save some for the final rinse. That's as cheap as it gets.
  4. I thought the 620 came with a F4W63?
  5. The 4sp countershaft bearings are needle bearings. I believe the earlier years used caged needles, then a change was made to loose needles. Loose needles will carry more load Vs caged needles of the same dia. (more needles in contact with the rotating parts) I don't know if you can use loose needles in a case that was using caged needles though?
  6. Part of what you said Mike comes to mind. I never let anybody drive my cars unless they owned a foreign car. For some reason if they haven't owned a foreign, car they have visions of shifting a 396 Chevelle with a Muncie rock crusher transmission. That just doesn't work in a Datsun.
  7. If you have the larger counter shaft bearing then you have a 'C' transmission. Your damage is between 3rd & 4th. To trash 2 transmissions something else has to be going on?
  8. That has the indication that the main shaft and input shaft where to close together. That could happen if the main shaft nut comes loose or a miss placed thrust washer. Yours being an 85 I would think it should already have the left hand nut fix.
  9. Welcome to the train wreck called the SCCA All in the name of trying to reduce cost I would suppose.
  10. atomic, for o ringing the block, use a fly cutter ground a hair thicker then safety wire. Cut grooves in the block where 1 n 2 and 3 n 4 intersect like 8s. Then its a mater of forming the wire to fit the figure 8 groove. when you put the wire in the groove its about .005" or so cant remember above the deck height and just use a stock head gasket. did this on our u20 after everything else failed including yamabond. that sht is hell to remove. I have a l20 block that we did that to but its late in the day to get a pic. Ill post pic when I can. cheers
  11. Maybe use something like these for your piston oilers? https://zzperformance.com/products/piston-oil-squirters-gen-2
  12. After looking at your roadster thread and realizing your never going to cut the windshield off to make a proper race car, I take it you're not going track racing but going to run those rich people things on public roads , the Mille things? Last run in 1957? In Italy? Wayne Carini comes to mind. Nothing wrong with that. Heat shielding under the carbs and maybe header wrap, get rid of the rubber fuel lines unless you want to see your car burn to the ground, better yet relocate the fuel lines to the back of the engine compartment not routed on the engine, there's probably a fuel return line that's been butchered out of site unless your car is pre smog, put in an electric rad fan, get your radiator boiled out and bypass your heater core, you're in California after all, what do you need a heater for? just one less thing to fail. Make sur the coolant overflow system is up to snuff. The hood does have a functional scoop, but the limited airflow goes to the top of the rad. Get a custom cross flow rad and then you can take advantage of the hood. But if you don't deal with the oiling issues and the other engine 'opportunities', it will all be for not, but California road crap, its probably all good. Doubt you'll be turning over 6K. U20s eat rod bearings with out proper mods when revd, and the over square short rod U20 with big valves begs to be revd. One good thing, doubt you'll ever break the crank! Don't louvre the hood. You already fd it up drilling holes in it. Just my 2cents.
  13. Campaigned a DP 2000 in the late 70s early 80s. Never had that problem. Maybe if your sitting in traffic, but then you aren't racing. Like Mike said, need a really good heat shield between the carbs & exhaust, bond some insulation to it, bring it over to the inner fender panel. Re-route your gas lines, right now you have them sitting over the header. Find away to bring fresh air in. If your insistence on fkng the hood up, just put the louvers over the carbs facing forward. At that point who cares about aesthetics. You'd probably be better off putting in a naca duct. Depending on what vintage racing association you plan on competing in, louvers could be a no no, not period correct after all.
  14. docbainey

    Hot LZ23

    Research piston guided rods. Low cost solution to your dilemma. Durability? Well they last for at least 500 miles in CRASHCAR!
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