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TENDRIL's 67' pantydropping, black cherry pearl popping 520 now with Turbo DOHC, body drop, and 4-link with bags or coilovers not sure, maybe both


TENDRIL

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It's hard to get the back down, I have not figured out what I am going to do yet myself, I have 4 inch drop blocks in the rear, and I am still almost 4 inches to high, I can drop it another inch with 4X4 leafs, but other than that, I am not sure if there is another way without getting custom leafs made that have no arch at all, but first I will have to notch the rear frame, as I have less than 2 inches clearance back there right now.

At least you are working on yours, mostly I think about working on mine.  :lol:

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  • 1 month later...

not really, ive been focused on the goon getting everything ready for canby, funds have kind of put this on hold all  it needs is to be painted, and i havnt had the monies to get it down to james' aka the510keeper 

 

other than that evreything is ready to be put together :)

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not really, ive been focused on the goon getting everything ready for canby, funds have kind of put this on hold all  it needs is to be painted, and i havnt had the monies to get it down to james' aka the510keeper 

 

other than that evreything is ready to be put together :)

 

You coming to James' place Thursday night?

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  • 8 months later...

Mitsubishi powerrrrr.

 

Nice work, just read through your whole thread.  The engine you have is an early g54b, dished pistons, and non-hemi head, 8:1 or 8.5:1 ratio... I forgot.  2.6L BTW.  I have built more of these engines than I can remember, if you need any info feel free to ask me.  I also have a slightly newer truck with the frame you're using lol.  Near stock it doesn't need an oil cooler, but if you really wanted one a Starion uses a factory sandwich plate setup that will bolt right on... you'll also get a turbo feed line port and another oil pressure sender port.  I'd go to electric fans and ditch the stock clutch fan setup.  The water pump bearings will like this, you can use bolts to hold the pulley on without the fan, or use washers/studs.

 

If the engine is still out and it has some miles on it (+100k), I'd do a balance shaft elimination and replace the guides and tensioner, at a minimum.

 

-Robert

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Mitsubishi powerrrrr.

 

Nice work, just read through your whole thread.  The engine you have is an early g54b, dished pistons, and non-hemi head, 8:1 or 8.5:1 ratio... I forgot.  2.6L BTW.  I have built more of these engines than I can remember, if you need any info feel free to ask me.  I also have a slightly newer truck with the frame you're using lol.  Near stock it doesn't need an oil cooler, but if you really wanted one a Starion uses a factory sandwich plate setup that will bolt right on... you'll also get a turbo feed line port and another oil pressure sender port.  I'd go to electric fans and ditch the stock clutch fan setup.  The water pump bearings will like this, you can use bolts to hold the pulley on without the fan, or use washers/studs.

 

If the engine is still out and it has some miles on it (+100k), I'd do a balance shaft elimination and replace the guides and tensioner, at a minimum.

 

-Robert

 

 

nice well i was actually looking into doing the 4g63t swap since it looks fairly easy im not entirely sure if it will work in my engine bay since i was told in the MM trucks people have to modify their firewall about 2-4 in. to make up for the thermostat housing and cam sensor  but i have already modified my fire wall for the g54 with an extra 2 in than original modification of the fire wall so it might work  , i have the 5spd km132 that i picked up brand new in the plastic out of a shipping crate from a forklift supplier.

 

i think it is a bolt on to the 4g63t out of a 91 eclipse  

 

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Timing setup is extremely easy, and cheap on these engines.  G54b's don't have any more cooling issues than another engine with a clogged radiator and a dumbass owner LOL.  Do you have dished pistons or flat top??

 

A front coolant outlet conversion will give you more space, the CAS doesn't stick out as far as that, but it sounds like you have plenty of room now.  4g63 are narrowblock, you have a wideblock trans so it won't bolt up without modifcations/adapter plate.  4spd trans should be narrowblock, but are weaker than 5spds which aren't that strong anyway.  Or you can look for a g63b(early 4g63) wideblock in a d50, but those are usually very hard to find.

 

Yep, projectzerog is a good resource, you can do the rx7 trans route if you're fond of sourcing parts lol.

 

-Robert

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To bad you don't live closer, I have what you need in front of my house right now, and it's not a rusted out piece of crap either.

DSCN2031.JPG

You could cut off the front 4 inches of this box, and paste it on the front of your box, then you would have a longbed(longer bed :lol:).

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