TENDRIL Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 oh and ups broke open the cans of por 15 i ordered so im waiting another week for them to replace it lol Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2013 GIFTS!! there will be about 4in. of gap between the cab and bed when set :hmm: but im alright with it for now Link to comment
highdesertdatsun Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 I can't wait to see it painted . Good work. Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 well this is where my wheels will sit in the wheel well... not as tucked as i would of hoped but its better than the steelies anddddd thats my rear window on the ground :crying: :poop: Link to comment
wayno Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 It's hard to get the back down, I have not figured out what I am going to do yet myself, I have 4 inch drop blocks in the rear, and I am still almost 4 inches to high, I can drop it another inch with 4X4 leafs, but other than that, I am not sure if there is another way without getting custom leafs made that have no arch at all, but first I will have to notch the rear frame, as I have less than 2 inches clearance back there right now. At least you are working on yours, mostly I think about working on mine. :lol: Link to comment
Spoona_Jay21 Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 any progress on this one?? Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted May 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 not really, ive been focused on the goon getting everything ready for canby, funds have kind of put this on hold all it needs is to be painted, and i havnt had the monies to get it down to james' aka the510keeper other than that evreything is ready to be put together :) Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted May 3, 2013 Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 not really, ive been focused on the goon getting everything ready for canby, funds have kind of put this on hold all it needs is to be painted, and i havnt had the monies to get it down to james' aka the510keeper other than that evreything is ready to be put together :) You coming to James' place Thursday night? Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted May 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 You coming to James' place Thursday night? ohhh yea, although if i can get there earlier i will 1 Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 small update , i have pulled everything off of the frame except brake lines and steering linkage, for some deep cleaning and hopefully a fresh paint job for the frame. its about 4 different colors right now moar pics later 2 Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Have you thought about stretching the front of the bed to close up the gap? Looking great Tendril. Link to comment
Komeuppance Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Mitsubishi powerrrrr. Nice work, just read through your whole thread. The engine you have is an early g54b, dished pistons, and non-hemi head, 8:1 or 8.5:1 ratio... I forgot. 2.6L BTW. I have built more of these engines than I can remember, if you need any info feel free to ask me. I also have a slightly newer truck with the frame you're using lol. Near stock it doesn't need an oil cooler, but if you really wanted one a Starion uses a factory sandwich plate setup that will bolt right on... you'll also get a turbo feed line port and another oil pressure sender port. I'd go to electric fans and ditch the stock clutch fan setup. The water pump bearings will like this, you can use bolts to hold the pulley on without the fan, or use washers/studs. If the engine is still out and it has some miles on it (+100k), I'd do a balance shaft elimination and replace the guides and tensioner, at a minimum. -Robert Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 i have but it would be a bit more time consuming than i can spare to get this done. so i am going to do something like this but the bars will drop down thru the gap, and follow the body curves some what, and attach to the frame Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Mitsubishi powerrrrr. Nice work, just read through your whole thread. The engine you have is an early g54b, dished pistons, and non-hemi head, 8:1 or 8.5:1 ratio... I forgot. 2.6L BTW. I have built more of these engines than I can remember, if you need any info feel free to ask me. I also have a slightly newer truck with the frame you're using lol. Near stock it doesn't need an oil cooler, but if you really wanted one a Starion uses a factory sandwich plate setup that will bolt right on... you'll also get a turbo feed line port and another oil pressure sender port. I'd go to electric fans and ditch the stock clutch fan setup. The water pump bearings will like this, you can use bolts to hold the pulley on without the fan, or use washers/studs. If the engine is still out and it has some miles on it (+100k), I'd do a balance shaft elimination and replace the guides and tensioner, at a minimum. -Robert nice well i was actually looking into doing the 4g63t swap since it looks fairly easy im not entirely sure if it will work in my engine bay since i was told in the MM trucks people have to modify their firewall about 2-4 in. to make up for the thermostat housing and cam sensor but i have already modified my fire wall for the g54 with an extra 2 in than original modification of the fire wall so it might work , i have the 5spd km132 that i picked up brand new in the plastic out of a shipping crate from a forklift supplier. i think it is a bolt on to the 4g63t out of a 91 eclipse Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 and the head is a hemi with the jet valves i replaced the head gasket on it because i heard these motors are prone to blowing them due to cooling issues Link to comment
Komeuppance Posted January 4, 2014 Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Timing setup is extremely easy, and cheap on these engines. G54b's don't have any more cooling issues than another engine with a clogged radiator and a dumbass owner LOL. Do you have dished pistons or flat top?? A front coolant outlet conversion will give you more space, the CAS doesn't stick out as far as that, but it sounds like you have plenty of room now. 4g63 are narrowblock, you have a wideblock trans so it won't bolt up without modifcations/adapter plate. 4spd trans should be narrowblock, but are weaker than 5spds which aren't that strong anyway. Or you can look for a g63b(early 4g63) wideblock in a d50, but those are usually very hard to find. Yep, projectzerog is a good resource, you can do the rx7 trans route if you're fond of sourcing parts lol. -Robert Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 front half almost done 1 Link to comment
wayno Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Did you fix your gap issue? Now would be a good time to address that issue if you have not. Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 this is what i was thinking .. since it would be the cheapest and fastest fix and it would serve a purpose something along the lines of a roll bar/ lumber rack i would attach it to the frame and bed and it would fill the gap i hope 1 Link to comment
wayno Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 To bad you don't live closer, I have what you need in front of my house right now, and it's not a rusted out piece of crap either. You could cut off the front 4 inches of this box, and paste it on the front of your box, then you would have a longbed(longer bed :lol:). 1 Link to comment
Komeuppance Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Now would be a good time to check out your steering gear lol. Lookin' good. -Robert Link to comment
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