TENDRIL's 67' pantydropping, black cherry pearl popping 520 now with Turbo DOHC, body drop, and 4-link with bags or coilovers not sure, maybe both

[TENDRIL]

well to seal the bare metal wont primer do that?

 

 

so i guess i should ask shoul i take every thing down to bare metal?  my thought were if you get every thing smooth with 200grit  it should be fine to lay primer right

 

and than i thought higher grit comes after you prime such as wet sand and above 200? i am no painter but this is what i thought.. 

[TENDRIL]

btw hopefully all the paint will be done at datsunville, as i have no heated space to lay paint im doing what i can with space heaters and shop lights for the bondo... in 32 degrees or below ....sigh...

[jrock4224]

Most high build primers/ sanding primers don't have etching characteristics.... Some new high build primers advertise straight to bare metal but I still believe in my tried and true method..... U can do filler work over epoxy but I'm old school and put my fillers directly to bare metal....then seal in a epoxy and most epoxys have a 24 to 72 hour recoat window where u wouldn't have to sand, or as i would and just scuff it.... Epoxys sands like sanding a eraser, I don't reccomend it...the all in one sanding primers do have a etch to them but its my personal opinion that ..... Sanding primers are not reccomend to be used when car is in use ..... A there not uv stable and b, due to there inherant nature absorb moisture like a filler or bondo would and to me that primer beig direct to bare metal is a gateway to your metal with no barrier in between..... It's actually a play on words.... Direct to metal high build or 2k primer was designed in a bare metal application where u are doing filler work and once your filler work is done u usually have bare metal surrounding the repair or filler..... This direct to metal primer will work in this fashion well to eliminate a step of sealing the work then going to your 2k primer but it has wildly been blown out of proportion as a product u could strip your car and eliminate the step of using a epoxy or wash primer, which is not a sanding primer , as a base before your 2k or sanding primer.... Which in that instance would lead to premature failure..... And prolly a corrosion issue.....as for the sandin u done, looks fine I would personally strip it bare after all that and start from the ground with bare metal but if not I would definitely use some form of a sealer primer...... They sell some 1k sealers in a acrylic form but again ..... I like to start with a solid base and would reccomend a epoxy sealer in any instance....after all all e coated parts for the factory or usually epoxy based ..... It's a very stable product and shoots a lot like a base coat although I like to reduce my epoxy down so it lays smooth..... Especially the new lead free epoxys .....they are kinda lumpy and reducing it lays it down smoother ..... But watch out the use of a reducer will aid in runs ..... I imagine this is overkill for u and I prolly confused the fuck out of u..... So oics of the sunbathing or face public stoning

[jrock4224]

I see the cans on James shells he uses product that is top shelf ....and his paint work shows of his desire to up out quality work

[Phixius]

Haha... couldn't find the radio flyer, huh?

[TENDRIL]

Haha... couldn't find the radio flyer, huh?

 

it would have been more useful than that thing lol

[TENDRIL]

and jrock  im pretty sure i get 90% of what you said, through reading, but like most people , i need hands on,

[jrock4224]

like when are we gonna get our(ratsun)hands on these sunbathing in the snow pics.........lol....90% huh...cool more than most get from my posts

[TENDRIL]

I'm sorry to inform you that I did not snap any as I was busy with my truck.....I know fail

[the510keeper]

Oh god that's just foul true! But very very wrong ... hey james ts OK to leave some paint like I did right? So that's at 80 grit than I'm going to 100 and than 120 and than 200 should that be good? For primer?

Yes you can leave paint, but this will cause different depths of mil thickness. This will take away from the panel being flat when you primer it and the primer will have to fill in the differences in thickness of the paint you leave.

All this mean is you will have a shit ton of primer on your truck

 

So if you take it down to bare metal use Metal Loc DTM (direct to metal) primer. Metal loc works great.

 

You only have to sand to bare metal with 80 and the primer will fill in the 80 grit scratches. Scratches are only a problem when A. bigger then 80grit and B. are in paint, not metal. 

 

So if you spend more time with 80 you will spend less time all together.

 

hope this helps

 

How about pics of you women suntanning :)

[jrock4224]

Yeah if some sells u 36 grit to sand anything rub it on there face and say my car says no thank u lol....honestly all the filler and primers sand so nice there's no needs for anything corser..... Keep wha see your using to sand with flat on the panel at all times and use a long board when I block out my our truck.... Have some one show u how to use it correctly....90 percent of people doing work for the first time use a long board wrong

[TENDRIL]

So with the dtm metal loc I won't need the epoxy sealer rock is talking about or is it a good idea to still use both..?

[jrock4224]

Another version, although I only knew DuPont to sell metal loc self etch primer and it was very expensive..aftermarket rip off terminally and use it to market similar products....I think transtar is the worst for rippig off terminology to sell product.i use transtar epoxy a lot cause its like ppgs old dp epoxy primer.. Much nicer than there lead free line of do epoxys the ppg now sells

[jrock4224]

Mind u also everyone has different procedures they like....I always stayed away from etch primers I have had and seen a lot of bad things happen so I stuck with what I always had work best..... I wi tell I if your gonna use a etching primer your best to strip of all paint.. They won't react well going over old enamel or lacquers or anything for that's matter

[TENDRIL]

Thanks buddy I'm going to be doing some more research ....and if I'm lucky I may be able to dig up another sun bathing oic ;)

[TENDRIL]

just ordered 4" blocks to drop this things rear end... front all i can find are 2.5 drop springs , but that should be fine that would even everything out since there was about 2+ in of rake originally 

 

you guys think 4s are to big? you can see the gap in page 3

 

[wayno]

This is just my opinion, but I would say you need to get the body about 6 inches lower on the frame, is this possible?

I was able to get my 520 fairly low on my 86 720 frame, you do not want to be able to see the frame rails from the side, or at least not much of them, my rockers cover almost half of the frame rail sides, and when you are close, you cannot see any of the frame unless you bend over to look.

I have went to the extreme to get my truck low without bagging it, and still have a suspension, the front is great, but I will have to notch the rear frame, as I only have a couple inches left and the back is still way to high and it already has 4 inch lowering blocks in it.

 

I would also suggest that to fix your gap issue with you cab/box, that you find another 520/521 box, center your front wheels in the front wheel well, center your back wells in the rear wheel well, then measure how much you need to extend the box forward, then carefully cut that much off the spare box front, and tack it onto the front of your box, or cut a couple inches off the front of your box, then add what you need from the donor box to have it look proper which is harder, but will look proper without a tonneau cover.

[TENDRIL]

well my wheel tire set up wont tuck in to the wheel wells, they will poke a bit, lol it did not cross my mind to try to figure a way to lower the body on the , if i remember tho the bed mounts are just a little bit higher if not flush with the arch in the frame for the rear wheels 

 

now im not sure what is done to the bed as there are some 1/8 or 1/4 in. pieces of L shaped steel welded on where the old datsun one cut out.  i will get a better idea this weekend as its my days off ill tack pics and try to get some ideas rolling

[wayno]

In the photo above in your reply your cab is very high off of the frame rails, my rear cab floor is less than an inch off of the frame rails.

This is the best photo I can get right now.

You need to get the cab as low as you can on the frame, and then lower the box till it is resting on the arches, then cut the box mounts down to the height you need.

Right now my 520 is not level on the frame, the cab is almost touching the frame where your feet are, and it raises slightly as it goes back, I just put the box and cab on as low as I could(box resting on the arches), then aligned the body lines so it was straight from front to back, and that's how it was mounted, then I had to fit the fuel tank after it was all welded together.

If I raised the front a couple inches, it would likely be about level, but then it would not be as low, defeating my goal, so it will stay this way, fact is my cab is resting on the tank right now, making all sorts of noise(rattles/vibration), but i will likely lower the tank before raising the cab.

[TENDRIL]

there are two 2x4s under the cab, im going to try and find a oic of it be fore i un bolted every thing ...

 

 

first page in this pic you can see everything before i un bolted and to me it looks like i may be able to drop the bed about 2 in. to get the lines straight 

[wayno]

I went to the first page and took a look around, the frame seems to be slightly to long.

One option is to buy lowering blocks that allow you to move the rear axle forward as well as lowering it, you will only be able to get a few inches, and you will likely need the driveline modified, and possibly the e-brake system will need some work.

As I said before, you can center your wheels in the wheel wells, then measure how much you need to add to the box to make it look correct, then add a piece of another box on the front of your box, this is the option that is the easiest for me unless the axle can be moved.

You can shorten the frame also.

You can try to combine a few things to get a satisfactory result, move the axle forward a bit, move the cab back a little bit, and move the box forward a little bit, and live with a little bigger gap between the cab and box than normal.

I guess it all comes down to what one is willing to live with, the beauty of my kingcabs is I make/build them to fit the frame.

[TENDRIL]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

work was cut short due to the lady... will update some more later

[the510keeper]

Dude is this the truck you bought in Rough and Ready or the one u have always had

[TENDRIL]

the one ive always had the truck that got me into dattos!!!! 

 

rough annd ready was parts truck although it was in great shape  as far as body wise chassis was fucked and  i got quite a few goodies off of it tho and than i gave it to a  buddy for 20 bucks i think he scrapped tho :(

[TENDRIL]

also got some 4" blocks today and state tax return that paid for the 4" in blcks pretty much ....lol