Jump to content

TENDRIL's 67' pantydropping, black cherry pearl popping 520 now with Turbo DOHC, body drop, and 4-link with bags or coilovers not sure, maybe both

TENDRIL

By TENDRIL
in Project Datto

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 354
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

TENDRIL Newbie

TENDRIL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

replaced and relocated rear bed mounts today, since PO had a 2x6 under there, didn't get pics but it was done well, i just didn't want it and it kept me from lowering the bed on the frame

DSC_0763.jpg

 

DSC_0764.jpgDSC_0765.jpgDSC_0766.jpgDSC_0767.jpgDSC_0769.jpgDSC_0770.jpgDSC_0771.jpgDSC_0772.jpgDSC_0773.jpg

 

DSC_0774.jpg

 

i happy with where the bed sits now, i just have to allign it straight and mark and drill holes , for new mounts 

Link to comment
wayno Proficient

wayno

Posted
Posted

I had an issue that it looks like you might have, when I dropped my box down onto the 86 720 frame, my taillight buckets hit the frame ends if it wasn't aligned correct.

DSCN1014.JPG

 

DSCN1015.JPG

this is from the bottom pointing up, looks like I am going to have the shift the body again.

DSCN1016.JPG

It's looking good, leave a little room for a bit of rubber between the frame and box, otherwise it might vibrate like a drum while you drive down the road.  :)

Link to comment
wayno Proficient

wayno

Posted
Posted

I forgot I was going to mention that I also had fuel tank mount issues, I had to trim one of the ribs on the underside of the box, as it was hitting the rib, actually I still have tank issues, the cab is so low it is resting on the flat part of the front of the tank, transferring a lot of noise threw the cab, not sure if I am going to lower the tank, raise the cab, or pound that part of the floor up an inch or so.

Link to comment
TENDRIL Newbie

TENDRIL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

DSC_0694.jpg

and

DSC_0778.jpg

are in the same place   and you can see the cab mount in the bottom right under the corner of the cab, now the cab sould go back about 2-3 in. and the front wheels should be really close to center..now realistically i can move the the cab back as far as the cooling fan allows, unless i go with an electric fan.. which im unsure what happens when you take the fan off of a clutch type water pump, can i do this and go  electric fan? 

Link to comment
wayno Proficient

wayno

Posted
Posted

You are only going to be able to go back so far before the front wheel starts to look wrong/out of center in the front fender well, all you can do is slide it back till the front wheel looks centered, and see what the gap looks like, you can move the box and cab a little past center(closer to each other), but there is a point when it looks strange because the wheels are not centered.

As I mentioned before, you can move the rear axle forward a few inches with lowering blocks that are adjustable, but then the driveline and e-brake may need modified depending on the circumstances.

Keep upthe good work, your way more motivated than I am these days.

I hope the door is usable, it looked good on the truck in the wrecking yard.

Link to comment
wayno Proficient

wayno

Posted
Posted
well i would only go as far as it takes for the  the front wheels to look/be centered, the gap between the cab and box is not going to be big and im sure if its very bad ill do something about it. now which fan works better at cooling water pump fan or stock clutch fan?

 

I am not a good one to ask about fans, but here is my opinion.

I will do whatever it takes to use a stock fan, I will trim the blades, I will cut sheet metal to mount the radiator farther forward as long as it doesn't compromise anything, I will go to extremes to use the stock fan, I will lower or raise the radiator to center it on the fan, I have done all these things I have mentioned and more, as far as picking between a clutch fan verses non clutch fan, I have not noticed a difference, although it is said that the clutch fan is quieter.

My 47 chevy pickup has always ran hot since I put a rebuilt engine in it(350 V8), I use a stock metal fan on it, but I also put an electric fan on the front of the radiator, as even though I made the radiator 4 inches taller/bigger, it still will not keep that engine cool in city traffic, otherwise no matter what radiator I have used in my datsuns(J block 1300cc rad. cooling a SD25 diesel(2500cc) engine, it still has done the job, although I prefer to use the biggest radiator possible.

I do use good clean radiators though, I have a lot of money in the radiators in all of my rigs, as I usually take them in to a rad. shop if there is anything that may worry me.

Link to comment
wayno Proficient

wayno

Posted
Posted
so ive seen the champion 3 row rads on ebay are these any good? and i notice they have oil coolers build in now are those able to handle engine oil? if i get a oil filter relocation can i send it through those on the rad? 

 

That is actually a transmission cooler in the radiator for an automatic, there are not that many older vehicles with oil coolers, my diesel engines have an oil cooler built into the side of them, but that is the only one I have seen lately.

My mini has an oil cooler, but they are all aftermarket as far as I know.

Link to comment
wayno Proficient

wayno

Posted
Posted
so it would not be able to handle the thicker sludgy oil?

 

It's just a tube going threw the lower tank where the cooler water is, it's not a mini radiator, I have always wondered if it really cooled much of anything, but I suspect it is better than nothing for the transmission.

I have no idea how you would get the oil to a cooler unless you use a remote oil filter, and they are just another thing waiting to fail.

Link to comment
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.

  I accept