74 620 V8 AutoX

[JNHEscher]

Classic Tube for stainless line and Vibrant Performance for nifty clamps and such.

[Cpl620]

thank for the lines! and i checked vibrant a while back.


something along the lines of this but a bit better quality and something that is counter sunk so one side bolts to the frame while the other bolts into the stationary side. these things can get expensive from my findings so i figured it would be cheaper to grab some Alu slabs, cut to size, drill to size, and then sand and polish to shape.

[Cpl620]

Metal warehouse is closed till monday, I decided to just add in another X brace instead of boxing around the transmission. so i just gutted the cab and the engine bay since i have nothing else to do today. does anyone need some 620 stuff? i dont think ill be reusing the stock dash or anything in the cab really. my interior is in pretty rough shape, but i may have something you're looking for. relays, fuses, connectors. im redoing ALL of the wiring as well so hit me up.

also,

 

despite having a 1 3/4 tube in part with the 1 1/4 im using for the front towers, i still have a fair amount of flex. since the front only has one vertex that i can really weld to (as opposed to the back where the frame is offset) im trying to find dimensions that will stiffen it up. The suspension i have is stiff as all hell and should not even really be called suspension as i probably have about an inch and a half of travel under load, so i want to keep these flex points down as much as possible since it will be transferred to the frame. ill be doing a tower bar to connect the two behind the engine, but i dont want to put all my eggs in that basket. thoughts, concerns? let me know if you think it will be good.

 

[Cpl620]

one last time.... sorry for all this filler crap post, but im going to pick one of these up this weekend, i got a smokin deal on these +some tires. anyways, 1 or 2

[finney]

I hope you body drop this. Be so badass

['70dime]

2

[Cpl620]

finney, I really dont think ill need one. I made the towers a bit taller than the stock chassis that the suspension came from, so im pretty close to laying frame as it is. I may just notch the body a bit to hide the frame from the side view.

[Cpl620]

Ok, ok. so i cut out the old bracing and decided to make it a bit shorter and a stronger X with less cuts. This also puts the cross section behind the stock transmission mount. ill make mounting point off of the cross brace and strengthen it where i see fit. busy this weekend so no work until Monday. Ill have wheels and tires on the front however! :thumbup: :frantics: :thumbup:

[5t341tH]

awesome stuff. cant wait to see it all finished

[Cpl620]

thanks man, its going tobe a long project as im running out of cash. i have enough to get it driving though. just no body or interior work...

[Cpl620]

I am in need of help, like seriously. ive come to a point in the build where i feel like a kid sticking a knife in a socket...
BRAKE LINES! DUN DUN dun........~!

so i have some lines for my calipers. they are a female fitting that are meant to fit a 10x1.0 fitting attached to a 3/8 line. however im going to run a 1/4 hard line instead. I was looking for the supplies on summit and am running circles in my head. (it may be the beer) but i have no clue on what to do......then i need them to fit the master cylinders i buy? wtf.....

onwards to lazy progress, stopped because im putting the final list of parts (or trying to) on order to get this thing started up.

['70dime]

I'm sorta confused, you need 10mm female to 1/4" line? do you have pictures? 

[Cpl620]

The comnection at the calipers is a 10mm x 1.0 female fitting. I need to connect to that off of a 1/4 line, but these fitting sizes are confuting the hell out of me with the multiple sizes and connections they have in the search criteria. It also looks like you cant put a male fitting on a piece of hard line, so are all male fittings just adapters? Shits confusing me how it works.

[]2eDeYe]

The male fittings just sleeve over the hardline. It is easy enough to have metric on one side of the hardline and sae on the other. Get yourself a good double fare brake line tool, orger the fittings you need and the hardline that fits both 

[Cpl620]

The end is in sight. I think the weight distribution turned out well too. The front is light as hell. I can lift it with a hand. And the back takes a good 2 hands with a dead lift. It should even out with the engine and everything mounted. just flipping it over to get the bottom welds and clean up all the cut old brackets. about a 2lb spool of welding left and were good.

Painting will start monday or tuesday. Then assembly starting next weekend.

[Cpl620]

got some more parts in...




as well, i boxed up the rear suspension mounts. i still have to go through and re-do some of the welds. Through this project ive learned that a good welder is worth its weight in gold. this welder is good, when it works. but the wire feed gets jammed super easy unless your line is straight as shit. its causing so many headaches, so that will be upgraded for the next project....aw well a as a plasma cutter....and a nice press.....maybe if i sell this project ill have enough to buy those all.....?

 

anyways...






dont worry, they will get smoothed out, i just left excess material on the cuts.

so this is how im going to connect to the strut towers from the roll-cage. half cut the dom, and insert a 1"1/2 solid round. grind it down flush (ill need some extra flapper disk...) and then do the reverse for the dom coming from the cage. two bolts to keep them connected, and were good.




things left to do. gusset a few mount points, as well as the front camber plate mounts to the towers. make brackets for the fuel tank and fuel pump, and sand blast the rest of the frame. a bit behind schedule, but its getting there. 

[heretic]

this is going to be a BEAST

[Jester]

One thing that will help the wire to feed better is to blow out your liner with compressed air. Next time it bird nests on you, take the whip out, pull the tip and blow air through it. Welding suppliers have a wire wiper that will keep the grit from transferring down the liner. They also make a lube to apply to the wiper to keep it going smoothly. Worth the money!

[Cpl620]

good to know, it's pissed me off more than once. im no pro welder, but i hate the areas that look like blobs of metal because the wire was moving like a sewing machine. ill pick some up when i go to get more gas.

[raggmann]

Have a good look at your liner in general. Could be it needs replacing, they DO wear out.

[Cpl620]

Its been doing it since day one. I have maybe 12lbs through the machine. Unless they go bad that fast?

[raggmann]

No, not usually that fast.

[Rhapakatui]

I've never really messed with the little personal machines much, but check your rollers.  They may not be tight enough to keep the wire from slipping.  It's a bit of a tuning game, too tight and the wire will wad up in the machine, too lose and it'll slip and burn back to the tip.

[Cpl620]

so this is the final part before paint...should I gusset them? just the two tubes coming towards the inside. looking at the load direction they should feel more of a load pushing inward rather than up. the outer tube will take the upward force from the suspension and direct it in with the angle in which its mounted. I feel like i should, just in case, but i feel that it would be over hill. what do you guys think? overkill already? or "stop being lazy, its better to get rid of all the "What If's"."

[Josh K.]

I think it would be overkill. I think the load is going to want to twist the frame rails in a worst case scenario. If anything I would replace the round tube between frame rails with a rectangular or square tube.

 

After seeing the weak ass shit people get away with and the car is still fine I would say you'll be fine either way ;)

 

Josh-