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'73 1200 Coupe Project, aka Timmy


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So, been ruminating on what could we do to not mount the clutch master cylinder inside the car...

 

You see, since the RHD pedal cluster is made for a cable and not hydraulics, the whole assembly is a little narrower than the LHD version. So you can't fit both a brake master pushrod and a clutch master pushrod through the middle of it. So I thought, how could we mount the master cylinder so the pushrod comes through just beside the cluster, and then, how could we make the pedal operate it? 

 

So I started drilling holes...   :rofl:

 

Got the clutch master mounted up just a bit further to the center of the car than it "should" be. Then got to looking at how to make the pedal push on the pushrod now that it's just outside the cluster. As it turns out, the pedal goes straight up towards the new pushrod location, but then takes a sharp S turn to the right just before it goes into the cluster. So I took a flat bar of steel the same thickness as the pedal, cut it to about 5" long, and drilled a hole in it to attach to the pushrod. Took the pedal out, welded the flat bar to it, put it back in, and hooked up the flat bar to the pushrod. 

 

Now mind you, it looks kinda ghetto. Hence no photos. Don't want any incriminating evidence.    B)

 

But it works GREAT.  :thumbup:

 

Hopefully once the dash is in the car it won't be super visible that the pedal has been modified. Thankfully, out in the engine bay it isn't really even noticeable that the master is slightly too far over. Need to pick up a new 12" hardline to go from it down to the clutch master and then we can at least shift gears.  :thumbup:

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Okay, took some pics anyway...     :rofl:

 

For some reason in this pic it looks like they are pointing different directions, but they are not...

 

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My wacky pedal mod...

 

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May need to brace the master, but it doesn't see nearly as much force as the brake master cylinder, so...

 

So who's going to tell me how dumb this is?  :rofl:

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nice fix for the clutch. I will be doing something very similar so I can run a booster. not much room for anything on mine being body dropped and bagged on 19s

How do you body drop unibody car? I thought it was channeling the body down over the frame, how do you do this with no frame?

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How do you body drop unibody car? I thought it was channeling the body down over the frame, how do you do this with no frame?

I have a 520 van not a 1200, but the clutch mod will work as i have to move everything over

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nice fix for the clutch. I will be doing something very similar so I can run a booster. not much room for anything on mine being body dropped and bagged on 19s

 

The thing we came up with after we did this, which might interest you, is...

 

If you took the long bolt that goes through the pedal pivots, and made it longer, you could add an extra pivot to the outside of the cluster that would "brace" it even more. 

 

I found a brake pedal with the same size pivot that is perfectly straight that I could use for this purpose, but assuming the current setup works as is, there's no real reason for me to do it, other than vanity.   B)

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The thing we came up with after we did this, which might interest you, is...

 

If you took the long bolt that goes through the pedal pivots, and made it longer, you could add an extra pivot to the outside of the cluster that would "brace" it even more. 

 

I found a brake pedal with the same size pivot that is perfectly straight that I could use for this purpose, but assuming the current setup works as is, there's no real reason for me to do it, other than vanity.   B)

Agree, need to stabilise or add strength to anything… triangulate it. 

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New clutch hard line installed...

 

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Did the old gravity bleed and it worked like a charm.   :thumbup:

 

 

Except my super crafty clutch mod is failing me. First the firewall was flexing because of the pressure being exerted to make the clutch work. Made a brace to stop the flex, so now the arm I installed is bending under the strain...    <_<

 

Gotta pull the pedal back out again, and make something new that's braced on the top and bottom, not just the bottom. Stay tuned...   :blush:  :blush:

 

 

 

 

 

Got so pissed at that I had to go do something else before it got hit with a hammer. So, not having a hood prop stay for the last 8 years bugs me every week, but it finally bugged me enough to actually do something about it.  :rofl:

 

Only OEM-style stays I could find online are in China (none local), so I went rooting. Found this one on a 2010 Nissan Rogue. It's made of nylon, so I took it to the grinder and trimmed it down a bit to make it fit better and be a little prettier. Then drilled two holes in it, found some fancy gold cad bolts, and here we are...

 

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Will be nice to not have that rod falling down every time I graze it now...   :thumbup:

 

 

 

Of course that just makes me want to pull the prop rod off and paint it now...    :rofl:

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do you think the same flares you have are really not a good fit for a b210 2dr sedan?

 

I do not. I tried them on my friend Tim's B210 coupe and my B210 sedan. No dice.

 

Problem is that they are too short front to back. The 1200 has very short in length wheel openings, especially in the front. The flares wouldn't reach all the way across the opening on a B210.    :crying:

 

240ZG flares are the only ones I've found that are a decent fit. 

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Been looking for my electric fan for weeks with no luck. Finally gave up and bought a new one. That will ensure that I find it tomorrow...   :rofl:

 

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Fan mounted. Had to go 10" since no one had an 11" (biggest that fits), but the upside is that the clearance is really good...

 

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We removed the big bolt that holds the pedals up and welded another bolt to it facing the other way...

 

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Took a spare clutch pedal that was straight and cut off the bottom half, fitted it up to the new bolt we added, and made a brace to keep it centered while reinforcing the firewall a bit...

 

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Had to drill two holes in the stock pedal and the new pedal, then bolt them together, to make it rock solid. Gave it a few pumps and it not only works awesome, it has ZERO flex on it, and none at the firewall.   :thumbup:

 

Next on the agenda is to mount up the gas pedal and make it work. Hopefully that goes smoother...   :rofl:

 

 

Then we just need to hook up the rear brakes, install the fuel cell, bolt in the dash, and we are on the road!!!   :wub:

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What radiator are you using? :)

 

79-83 210 radiator, but a B210 works well also. As I recall the B210 radiator is the same height as a 1200 radiator, but about 5" wider. The 210 is about 7" wider. And I've seen several B210s that have 210 radiators in them (which is where I got this one).

 

Thankfully here in the states you can still get the 210 radiators new. 

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Well, it seems the rear suspension sort of fell out...   :rofl:

 

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Had to take all that out to get the crossmember out for a few minor mods...

 

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Wanted to fix an alignment issue we've had since the install, and go ahead and slot the mounting ears to get a little more fine adjustment to the camber/toe. Should have the mods done and have it back in by next week...    :thumbup:

 

 

And in the never ending saga of "what am I ever going to do with this panel", I got a kooky idea...    :rofl:

 

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I think I could cut it down and do something like this?

 

toyota-carina-ta63-gt-tr-garage-goods-pi

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