Jump to content

Atomic

Senior Member
  • Content count

    581
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

194 Excellent

About Atomic

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Finland
  • Cars
    2x Datsun B310 Coupe 1978
  • Interests
    Music, photography and DIY
  1. Had some time to test out aluminium welding, used 120Hz and 65% Balance with 65Amps Welded with filler wire, wall thickness 2mm. Welded without filler metal, 1.5mm thick Another go with 1.5mm without filler metal. Could see some impurities raising to the top of the weld. Gave it another pass, got some impurities away Welded another go on top of the old bead just to see how it behaves Welded with filler metal on top of the old seam without fillerwire Did some crisscross on top of the weld bead, may seem drossy but all the material was quite well at the surface, no drops. Ordered a new gas bottle also. But with these test I'm more confident to weld the intake manifold myself, seems to be much much easier than with MIG
  2. AC/DC Tig tested today, seems to be pretty solid for its price: It came with 0.5kg with each filler wire of: Al Si, Al Mg, Stainless steel, and for mild steel applications. Also with multiple cup sizes and holders and tungstens with gold and red plating for AC and DCEP usage with ranging thicknesses of 1.6-2.0-2.4 mm of each. Kit included a welding mask with all the adjustability you could imagine: And works really great for its price! No more burning my eyes, the ones sold in finnish stores were crap, couldn't even adjust the brightness or the reaction time at all. And this has multiple bands for top of your head and the tightening mechanism is really good and feels comfortable on your head. I put everything in a small trolley so I can move them around. The package included a gas adjuster also. Bottle I had with me from previous things. The Tig itself is a sherman 200A AC/DC Tig, seems to have your basic layout of 'bootleg' Tig welders. It came with torch that you can adjust the current from the handle, feels great on your hands and the length spans to 7.5m, so no need to move the main unit around much. , My first welding of 3mm thick mild steel was pretty good I would say, good penetration with around 70Amps. Nothing bad to say about the Tig so far, it has HF start and 2T/4T functionabilities which work both great. I'm going to test aluminium with AC probably this weekend, I have other stuff that I need to do also. All this with good packaging cost around 740 euros (Inc. VAT 24%) with home delivery from Poland, seemed pretty reasonable for me, thinking about what all came with the package.
  3. I was trying to crank the engine today, but still no oil pressure. I took the oil pump assembly off from the engine only to notice that I have forgotten to put the oil pressure release valve on its place, Do'h! I don't even know where it might be anymore. So I'm planning to either buy a new one or go to the other salvaged A15 motor and yank it out of there. Found couple of oil assemblies pretty cheap on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/IT-057-140-New-Engine-Oil-Pump-/332613395213?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0 Also found a new radiator and brake booster for really good price, so I'm asking about their shipping to Finland. The AC/DC Tig should arrive tomorrow and I have all the new parts for remaking the intake manifold system, hurray! Planning to buy a lot more parts also in near future, I want to get the engine running by the end of this year.
  4. Oh wow it has been a long time, glad to see that the forum got upgraded! Anyways, I was at the local car meeting and I was able to buy a D-badge for the front grillie! It only costed 1 euro, but needs some refurbishing. But I'm glad that I have a emblem now. I'm also thinking about putting GT-R badges to the car.. hmmm
  5. Bought some parts, silicone hoses for intercooler and turbo, some weldable injector pockets, and this MAC3 boost solenoid:
  6. Found this old key tag and decided to use it with the project car keys: Also got one of my cars sold, so I get some money to buy the AC DC TIG and full 2.5'' stainless steel exhaust system for B310 B)
  7. The new conrods arrived, they look neat! I also added more fiber glass body filler to the door panel and continued sanding it down, sometimes it feels like I'm doing too fine details and the sanding and body filling takes many hours.
  8. Got a summer job as a mechanical engineer treinee, hurray :thumbup: And also took the fender off so I can modify it a bit more. I'm also planning to do some bodywork on it and to the driver side door:
  9. All the conrods for A15 motors are on sale on ebay, bought a set of forged H-beam 4340 connecting rods with ARP 2000 bolts for 200 euros:
  10. Welded the panels together and grinded the welds down and applied some body filler, i think they came out really nice: Flushed the back panels just for the sake of it, had it done at the other side, so kinda had to do it also on the passenger side: And was finally able to fix the rusty window, came out great!
  11. Painted the trunk area with some primer, noticed more low spots etc, so I still need to get back and do some final finishing on spesific areas, but it's taking a good direction atleast Also I'm not sure what to do with spot weld panels, I kinda want to weld them shut and bondo over the seams, will see what i come up with: Passenger side is looking pretty neat imo Also started to sand down the old paint around the trunk. I wonder if there is a filler primer that can be left into place with long interval between main coat and the primer applied. Will sand down everything before deciding the final color ofc
  12. I had a simulation course in school using GT-Power, i made some dyno runs with simulated A15 engine with different intake runner lengths: I had the compressor running at 1 Bar of boost Process map: I didn't find the turbine map so I had to simulate the compressor speed map as seen from the photo above. It was nice to see how all things play out just by changing the intake runner length. Can't wait for real life dyno sessions B) I had a fixed ignition time and small AFR table done to the simulation, I wish i had more time to play with the specifications to have an optimized values for maximum torque and hp through RPM range
  13. Did some more bodywork: Used grinding wheel to make the weld spots lower, this section was really hard due to the shape of the whole thing, had to use really small grinding wheel and some other methods to get the high spots down: It still needs a lot of work but it's looking like something. Found nasty surprise from the passenger side tho, i cut more material off from the two overlapping sheets to reveal more rust, yuk: I'm probably going to remove all the rust from it and then create a layer of bondo to make it flush as I did with the otherside, so that there is no lapping seen: Some spots still require more welding so I didn't want to bondo over them, better make it now reasonably good so that I don't have to come back in the future to it again.
  14. Painted the rocker panels with rust preventing primer: Didn't get more pictures after painting this section too because I only had 2% battery left. And when waiting for the paint to dry, I wired the oil pressure sensor and fired all the gauges on: Still need to change the colors to amber, but the gauge selection is looking quite good. I still would like to have battery voltage indicator and I need to find good looking fuel gauge, didn't find one that would go with the same autogauge setup yet.
  15. I went and sprayed some rust primer to the window holes: wasn't able to do it for the last panel from the passenger side due to major rust, the frame needs bit cutting and welding: Also cleaned the last bits of rust that were still visible inside of the cabin near the roof: Probably going to spray the whole backside with same 2K gray paint that I had used for the floor thus far. Then i started finally to clean up the old welds from the panels so that I could get the doors to their final place. I'm going to finish up the bodywork and paint the door passage ways with the same 2K gray so that I have a solid paint and that dark gray will pretty much go with anything else. Meaning if I don't bother to paint them in the future with the same color as the outer shell, it's probably going to look okay.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.