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Atomic

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Finland
  • Cars
    Datsun B310 Turbo Coupe 1978 & Datsun B310 Coupe 1978
  • Interests
    Music, photography and DIY
  • Occupation
    Mechanical Designer

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  1. I actually pulled off the spark plugs, cleaned them and then ran the engine. Looks like cylinder 1 and 3 are not getting enough fuel. So fuel problem, need new injectors.
  2. No knock at least on higher RPM, but seems like one of my cylinders is not performing as well as the others, fuel pop around 33 seconds. I'll take the sparkplugs off tomorrow and see which cylinder might be the cause. I'm suspecting the bootleg injectors playing tricks on me. So will be probably buying a new flow matched set Edit: sounds like the compressor bypass valve is working as intended based on the air wooshing sounds
  3. Here is an idle video, was topping the coolant off so some excess is dripping still from the cap, so don't mind that. Engine temperature hovers around 87-95 degrees. Oil pressure at 850 RPM with hot oil seems to drop around 7-11 psi. It quickly increases with the rule of thumb of at least 10 psi per 1000 RPM. I'm a little bit concerned if something is still off. Everything was measured and brand spanking new. I wonder if it might be bad oil filter, some oil relief valve stuck open or something else going on with the pump? The pump I'm currently running is brand new from ebay, hmm... I will try with the modified pump tomorrow if I can get readings with that one. In person I can basically hear just the injectors ticking and some noise from the gearbox, but the engine seems to be smooth, thoughts?
  4. Thinking about machining something like this: Pulley from 7075 aluminum and the triggerwheel from AISI 1018 or similar. Weight is going to be aprox. same as it is now with standard pulley and triggerwheel ~ 930 grams
  5. Tears (almost) and sweat! I had an emotional rollercoaster with the car. Tried to start the engine, cranks once... Retry, cranks once... Testing with battery voltage, cranking once, voltage drops to 3V... Going to a store early in the morning, waiting 1 hour for it to open. Bought 70Ah/700A battery. Back to home. New battery to its place, eyes on oil pressure gauge. Cranking.... Cranking.... Gauge reads 0... Injector rail fails, fuel all over... Took the modified pump and replaced it with new original pump, fixed the rail... No oil pressure, cranking still without plugs or injectors on... Took the pump off, primed again... Cranking... Cranking... Oil pressure to 4 bar! Injectors hooked, laptop hooked, cranking... Engine runs up and down, dialing some cold start values... Engine coming up to temperature, oil pressure dropping below 1 bar... Changed oils as the first one was just to prime stuff up. Oil pressure reads 3-4 bars cold. Engine warming, oil pressure settles to 1 bar with 750-850 RPM idle, stock pump with T intersection to the turbo, no oil cooler hooked up yet. My crankshaft pulley seems to be fucked up tho, its all messed up and twisting and turning, I probably have to design one of my own. But for now, here is some music:
  6. Had to extend the alternator bracket, the VR sensor was getting too close: Machined the block-off plate for the old distributor hole: Installed the tomei intake/exhaust gasket: Superb thing with this is that it has separated exhaust ports, the stock gasket has a large hole that combines cylinders 2-3: Turbo + injectors + EGT sensors + plenum + intake manifold + intake pluming all done: Installed the gear to the oil-pump too: Not a lot to do for "first" start... Need to make couple more cables for the Hall sensor + fans, buy a new oil filter, make oil tubings for the oil cooler and finish machining the valve cover top cap and put the radiator back in its place. And last but not least, put some oil and water in 😛 non mixed please
  7. Bought some O-ring cord and o-rings for the plenum/intake manifold: Also painted the aluminum parts:
  8. Finally an update again! Got the 3D printed intake manifold from the 3D Formtech: Made custom hex M6 screws: Still need to think of a logo on the top black cover of the intake manifold. Will probably SLA print it and attach it later there.
  9. I think I don't have a choke heater even on the wiring harness on that one so I should be fine then.
  10. Ach. I hope I haven't damaged anything too much. I was running an alternator like the diagram above and I might have damaged the alternator, oopsie.. I need to do the wiring adjustment per wiki site suggests. I still had the external regulator place plug in the wiring harness for the coupe.
  11. I'm a bit confused, is this wiring setup with external regulator? Could someone chime in and help
  12. The oil plate split adapter that I have has thermo-switch yes. So once a temperature is reached, the oil starts to circulate through the cooler.
  13. Oil pump spacer done: It even spins! Turned out alright in my opinion. I have ordered longer dowel pins so I can match the whole stack together when assembling.
  14. Sent out an inquiry for the pricing of the intake manifold. More argon gas should arrive by Wednesday. I could assemble the exhaust manifold meanwhile and make the oil pump spacer ready so I can make the tubings ready for the oil cooler and back to the turbo and the oilpan.
  15. Did a 3D printout from the ''old'' ''new'' manifold design to just see how it fits over the valve cover etc. It measures 5 mm lower than the old one so I should be fine with the hood clearance plus able to get the valve cap open, huzzah! And then I'm just doodling the new intake manifold in CAD, o-ring sealings on mating surfaces: And thread M6 inserts implemented for the pockets:
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