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About Atomic

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
  • Cars
    Datsun B310 Turbo Coupe 1978 & Datsun B310 Coupe 1978
  • Interests
    Music, photography and DIY
  • Occupation
    Mechanical Designer

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  1. Drove the turbo coupe first time outside, clutch is working superb! I'm still waiting for the rear muffler to arrive. Till then it's straight dump. The car was leaking something small to the ground when driving, but I wasn't able to conclude what it was even after checking under the car. Will investigate bit further to see what it is.
  2. Got the clutch master cylinder installed remotely. I'm still missing the adapter, hoping that it will arrive on Monday-Wednesday
  3. As a surprise to no-one, the new wilwood master cylinder didn't fit how I initially wanted it to fit. So installation required some fabrication. I'm now just missing one adapter: 1/8 npt to 3/16 brake line fitting. I'll see when I can get it posted to me. So maybe I can continue the progress next week and we'll have a working clutch. I'll upload some pictures when the image server is working better.
  4. Put the old empty argon bottles to sell and bought a new one. I still need to weld the new rear muffler when it comes in. Also hyped for tomorrow if the master clutch cylinder arrives! Lets see what tomorrow brings, might drive datsun out of the garage, or not 😏
  5. Yeah, I made sure it was fully synthetic, and was told that ester based oils are the thing I should be looking for, so that's what I bought. And yeah, if I get an oil cooler I should just make sure that the oil keeps constant temperature when running hot and avoid spikes.
  6. I have the thermostat opening at 82 C. I need to do some test driving to determine if I need an oil cooler or not. If I end up getting one, I will probably put a opening valve that is thermoreactive so when the oil temperature reaches over certain point, it circulates the oil through the cooler up front or something.
  7. The lifter noise went away when I changed the oil. I don't have oil cooler yet, have been thinking about it tho. We will see how well will the new engine oil last, it's supposed to have all them goodies and that's why it cost so much. The oil that I bought was advertised to have high heat resistance and suitable for track driving and for turbo charged applications too. Shouldn't I just be then worried about weather I can keep the water temperature at optimum level?
  8. Painted the front window frame with 2 component epoxy paint so I could install the windshield someday in near future:
  9. I wasn't sure what kind of exhaust tip I wanted to have, so I ended up going with the casual big one: 3'' stainless steel end muffler. I hope that I'll be able to make the exhaust note deep, but not droning. I should also order more argon for the TIG welder
  10. Also bought an adapter for radiator upper radiator hose so I can connect thermo fan switch to it later: Will be sourcing the thermo switch locally probably, opening at around 82 degrees, because my thermostat is set to that also. In the future a linearly ramping fan controller system would be preferable.
  11. Bought a wilwood master cylinder for the clutch: Should arrive in 2 weeks. I will tune the car when I get the clutch working, so I can drive it outside and test everything. I had a master cylinder that was 5/8 inch with 30 mm of travel, now bought a 1 inch with 28 mm of travel. It was quite a stab in the dark because I don't know what kind of pedal effort difference it is going to bring. I hope that with a clutch it ain't much of a difference since there is quite a leverage with the current pedal system. The original that I have now is super light compared to my turbo volvo atm, so heavy clutch shouldn't be a problem anyways. I just want to adjust the clutch so that I don't have to 'pre-pressurize'' the clutch pack with the throwbearing as I'm running short on pedal travel now and cannot get the clutch to actuate. I was thinking of buying a kit for a second set of brake calipers for the rear axle of the: With this setup I would be able to use locking hydraulic handbrake and save the hassle of making the cable link working from the cabin and stuff like that. Haven't had a hydraulic e-brake before, so it would be nice to try one.
  12. Was bleeding the brakes and clutch the rest of the evening, turned out I had a ton of air left in the system: Now the brake pedal is superb and feels really stiff with little pedal movement. The clutch is different story tho. I currently have slave cylinder with 7/8 inch bore, and master cylinder with 5/8 bore. Well great, the pedal effort is minimal, but I cannot actuate the clutch without riding the clutch bearing really tight against the pressure plate (pretensioned kind of). I would need larger master cylinder I would presume. But I'm not sure how close I should get the ratios, I'm afraid that I might get too stiff pedal if I choose something close to 1:1 ratio (slave cylinder vs master cylinder). Of course there is also the pedal ratio that should be taken into an account. Also there is another problem, the datsun flange is at 45 degree angle, so I would need to buy a remote unit with a reservoir mounted to the firewall. Any suggestions how close I should get the master vs slave bore ratio? I was thinking something really close to 1:1 so I could get more volume to move the clutch, even if it makes the clutch harder to press.
  13. It turned out that I only needed an oil change. The 10w30 / 5w30 I used for initial startup of the engine seemed to be pretty thinned out when I drained the oil out of the pan. I went for 10w60 diamond extreme that is fully synthetic and has ester based mixture. Oil pressure climbed to 3 bars at idle, instead of 1.5 bar. Here is a clip after the oil change: No metal shavings were found in the oil, which is good! I would like to get the datsun outside so I can tune the idle properly. I wouldn't want to have another close case of CO poisoning as I almost had with my old Volvo 740 when changing muffler in the garage during the winter Old oil got a bit contaminated, I would guess that's because of really rich fuel mixtures I have been having during the initial tuning and startups, also that would make sense for it to thin out.
  14. I haven't done the valve adjustment after hot engine run yet. And some say that If the valve cover is too tight, it might resonate the sound somehow? I also have the breather valve open into the atmosphere, so the valve train noise could be traveling from there also? Anyways, I should probably run the engine hot, change oil, check valve clearance and try again.
  15. Got the engine running with smooth idle. But there is 'knocking' sound coming from somewhere, not sure what might be causing it. Lambda reads 14.2, ignition advance is 8, also tried 10, no difference, rpm 750 ish. Oil pressure around 1.5 bar. Could it be my valvetrain? here is a video:
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