Tristin Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Rasterizing converts a vector to a pixel based image. Youd want it the other way around... since vector graphics are math based images and not pixel based, they look exactly the same no matter what size they are. They dont get the same blowout effect that you do when you take a tiny pixel image and blow it up larger. This image is ok at the size it is now (personally I would fix the aliasing), but say you wanted it as a poster for your room or garage. Once you blow it up from the size it is now to poster size it will be horribly choppy. Just trying to look out for you... you say youre trying to "copywrite" your stuff so it makes me think you want to keep it looking nice and possibly use it for something in the future. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 update on the list: sooner than later: Round peep mirrors: http://www.ebay.com/...b07487&vxp=mtr\ Get a new battery Replace radius arm bushings Do a toe alignment Tribar head light covers: http://www.ebay.com/...6b663e7&vxp=mtr Redo/reroute exhaust: thinking about trying to squeeze it over my trans cross member, also considering having it dump out in front of my passenger front tire Make shock towers taller so i can put my shocks back in POR15 my cab floor Mount trumpet horns Upgrade alternator Rebuild weber DGV (get rid of DFV) carb kit should be here today or tomorrow Notch frame in the front- this is something i should probably ask jrock about. i was under my truck the other day looking at where my LCA hits my frame. it is not where the bump stops would be, its where the engine crossmember attaches to the frame, thinking of notching it out maybe 1/2in. probably more to come.... LATER Caster alignment See what some chevy rallys look like: definitely gonna keep my stock wheels and tires, just gonna see what they look like Get tires for rallys Roofing tar/sound deaden cab H4 headlight conversion POR15/some sort of rust protectant in the bed 720 4x4 springs Maybe s10 front lip MAYBE arch my frame in the rear or notch Maybe larger sway and rear swap bar Door switches and dome light more to come.... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 u should check ou mk1 rabiit lips .... there cheap on ebay at times... Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 ill check it out, thanks Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 someone on here has ne on there 521 and i know theres a thread from a dark green 4dr with them....name slips my mind..... notching out the crossmember for the lca to articulate is common and a easy mod.....mine will receive it when its bagged....i had to on my mazda too....some people in mazda's say to do the lca, i prefer to cut some from the frame.. frames are far sturdier then lca's.... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 page 14-16 show good pics of the lip... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26256-codys-green-69-510-4-door/page__st__260 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 I'm curios about this frame notching. Where exactly is it that you notch? Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 i assume he means her behind the snubber...this is a frame i have here at work thats getting bagged....this is the the stock side.... and this is the side my blind ass went after withthe plasma cutting all the snubbers and mounting out ....i have partial notched this side i plan on oncontinueing the radius frm the bottom to the top much smoother arc.....it will allow the control arm to articulate up farther allowing my suspension to travel far enough to reach frame on ground status.... And once its a smoother radius i will plate it in for strength...drill some speed holes and maybe spit on it....although on a static truck im not sure this notching would be needed for its takes a very low stance....on my mazda i had to cause the lower control arm is stamped and interferes all the way across.....so i notched the crossmember and plated it in and gained about two inches of articulation....i wasn't into taking pics of my work back in 99 when i did it but i will when i blow it apart to coat it ... the four link in that truck is warn the fuck out and gonna ruin a rearend if i don't fix it ... both my datsun and my mazda will recieve wish bone/three link set up....all bushing ends no more heims....heims were nice but year after year of dailying they progressively got noisier and noisier over the next ten years...now there annoying and causing unneccesary wear and tear....but when i three link that truck i am narrowin the rear end too or some wheels...18" infinitis Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 aha. interesting. I never knew about this. I'll probably never do that on my truck cause i DD it and i'm fine with static drop. although i would like to go 1 more inch down in the rear. Jon take pics when you do it. I may change my mind later. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 thats exactly what im talking about. allowing more control arm articulation. i will be making my shock towers taller, but i still will hit often so i was thinking it would be to hard to notch that part out. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 aha. interesting. I never knew about this. I'll probably never do that on my truck cause i DD it and i'm fine with static drop. although i would like to go 1 more inch down in the rear. Jon take pics when you do it. I may change my mind later. :thumbup: im all static too, just want a little more travel :) if i do do it, i will take pics Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 do do. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Rebuilt the dgv yesterday, rejetted to very close to what was recomended for an L20b. i dont remember what jets i used off hand, but i wrote them down and will post later what they are. the difference is like night and day! so much better! i dont know why i didnt do this earlier! no more dead spot, more torque/power, my electric choke actually works now, idles better, i got rid of my janky throttle linkage set up i had before and now im using the weber throttle cable holder, pulls much easier now. ahhhh SO much better.... jets are 142/155 mains, 140 air correct, 55/60 idle jets always is one thing after another. driving home tonight from a friends house and the brakes felt a like low. so i checked the master cylinder and fluid was low, but not below the low line. gonna add some more and see how fast it goes down, might be nothing, but thinking about replacing all wheel cylinders and rubber hoses. obviously i would look into the real cause, if it is serious, before is start throwing parts at it, but it wouldnt be bad to replace that stuff anyways. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Disc brake swap! When was the last time you adjusted your brakes? Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 i adjusted them a few weeks ago maybe? it was recently. i would love to go with the disc brake setup, but with Christmas coming i dont think i have the money for that. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 as far as the brake problem was, it never really occured again. i think i just need to adjust them, again haha. something else i noticed today that was kinda odd, my temp gauge was reading really low. im not sure if its just the gauge (i put in a sunpro awhile back) or if some reason its just running a lot cooler. it was reading about 120 when it normally runs about 160-170? could it run that cool if my thermostat is stuck open? i will see again tomorrow, hopefully drive it more/longer to make sure that it is warmed up all the way. i love this dgv so much its so much better! Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 It is entirely possible the thermostat is stuck open. Maybe obtain a heat probe gun, drive it for a little, and see what temperature the lower part if the thermostat housing is? A 521 tends to be under engined, and over radiatored. I used to tow a two horse trailer, and two horses, all over the Pacific Northwest with one. The cooling system can keep the truck from overheating in 95 degree weather, climbing Cabbage grade, east of Pendleton, Or. In the winter, when I was not towing a trailer, I would stick a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator, and block part of it off Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 but is it possible that a thermostat stuck open would cause it to run so much cooler? it also only about a year old Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Like I said, the radiator will keep the engine temp in check pulling a two horse trailer, with two horses, up a 6% grade, in the summer.. That is pretty much wide open, second gear, somewhere around 5 or 6 thousand rpm. Yes, a stuck open thermostat will over cool the engine. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 ok well ill try what you said with the laser thermometer, my brother has one. i hope its just the thermostat stuck open. cheaper than a new gauge. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 Just ordered new clutch slave, front wheel cylinders and hoses from rockauto. i can get carried away there....almost got new tie rods too... Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 So driving around today, my temp gauge didn't even come off the 100 base mark. I'm suspecting that its the gauge, but the wire wasn't kinked any where. So I'm about to put a 180 thermo stat right now, see if that changes anything... Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2012 I guess it's the gauge i bought only a few months ago. Still reading nothing. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted December 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 got my parts from rockauto late today so i only was able to get the wheel cylinders on before it got dark :/ who ever the hell bled these front brakes before i had the truck entirely fucked up the bleeder screw, so was to successfully bleed one side, the other side i kind of bled. i going to the junkyard next week, hope it comes quick, i still have air in the lines so it stops kinda shitty. but it does stop. sunday ill put the new slave on Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 15, 2012 Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 got my parts from rockauto late today so i only was able to get the wheel cylinders on before it got dark :/ who ever the hell bled these front brakes before i had the truck entirely fucked up the bleeder screw, so was to successfully bleed one side, the other side i kind of bled. i going to the junkyard next week, hope it comes quick, i still have air in the lines so it stops kinda shitty. but it does stop. sunday ill put the new slave on I beleave that the bolt that holds the bleeder/brake line connection assembly to the wheel cylinder can be loosened to bleed that side. There is also a 521 in the sherwood yard that likely has what you need to replace your damaged assembly. Quote Link to comment
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