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1971 521


jon521

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it should be here before saturday is what it says....at least i have the week off from work so i dont need to drive really. i know it was just flickering at idle, but still worries the hell out of me so im gonna try not to drive until i get it fixed

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Mine takes like 5 seconds til the light goes out on a cold start.

  my 521 is the same ... if it takes longer i know its low on oil..... hans had a oil pressure gauge in his truck and to be honest it was hard to watch at idle.....and at start up it would sit there and finally only come up a little,  yet while it was being driven at speed it was always in a safe range .... ....the guage is out of the truck now .... the oil pump in my 521 is leaking ...might be time to follow suit

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oil pump just got here, about to go put it in.

 

Found this vid on oil pressure and thought it might answer some questions.



I definitely learned something from it.

 thanks for the video, most of that i felt like i knew, but its always good to review

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this is the old pump, but you meant line it up with this notch correct? 

IMG_20121228_171915.jpg

 

something didnt go back together right because it runs like shit now, wont keep an idle and feels like its misfiring, i had adjust the timing at the dizzy just to get it to start, but it runs, and ive got to go to work in the morning and i dont feel like pulling my pump back off in the dark. maybe i can get it into the shop at work tomorrow if were slow. i had the this siimilar problem when i did my head swap awhile back, i just dropped the oil pump and put it back in at 11:25 postion instead of going by the marks and it fired right up. idk, maybe i will go pull it back out again tonight....

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alright well after talking to jake and skib a bit, i pulled it back out and realigned the shaft to the 11:25 position, not going by the marks really at all, and it fired right up just like before, and my oil light shuts off faster now :)

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remember! the dot on the pump lines up with the notch on the shaft and it goes in at the correct clocking

(assuming it doesnt move putting it in)

 

I have never had luck with that. Every time I have attempted that I am usually 2 teeth off.

 

 

Any oil lights? Have you tested it yet?

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I have never had luck with that. Every time I have attempted that I am usually 2 teeth off.

 

 

Any oil lights? Have you tested it yet?

 

 

should always be double checked up top obviously but they generally lines it right up.

sometimes it moves when your running it up threw the cover tho.

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Jake i had to do exactly what you said, i had to drop the oil pump about 3 or 4 times before i got it in correctly. i DID not go by the marks at all, i aligned the dizzy side with the bolt holes. ive been driving it for about a week without any problems. 

 

so id like to bring up another issue im having. the warmer my truck gets, the stickier my clutch gets. when its cold, it has no problem at all. but by the time its warmed up, its sticky. when i say sticky, i mean that i start to release the clutch evenly, but then its like it sticks on something, and i have to release more pressure and the truck bucks as if i was still learning stick. my foot never comes off the pedal, i just have to release more pressure than i need to and "unsticks" and then the truck jerks. i dont know, its not a huge deal, but its kinda fuckin annoying. i thought it might be the slave because mine is NASTY, but then i realized it does it when it warms up so i figured it was something interal. i have a new slave to put on, but i havent put it on yet, the fuckers that owned this truck before rounded some much shit. the nut on the rubber line going to the slave is slightly rounded, im not even sure if i can use a line wrench on it. and i dont know where to find a new rubber line, unless they are the same as the brake rubber lines? 

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and i dont know where to find a new rubber line????

rockauto.com

 

 

yes lining up the oilpump may take a few times. Just make sure TDC and your rorot should be pretty much right on the #1 plug wire and you should be very close to the middle of the timming plate adjustment(this also can be adjusted under the dist is a 8mm bolt that can recenter the timming plate more adv or retard

 

 

In winter maybe go down in oil viscosity.

 

PS anynother thing can happen if the Matchbox and the pedastal dont match as there were 2 types(offset tang) and this was set off a tooth to get running right and you set it per the manual of the 11/28 position and now it could be mechanicsally off a tooth on the timming.

Key is look at the rorot position at EXACT TDC and see where the rotor points.

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so oil light came back on today. FUCK, WHAT A BITCH YOU ARE. i tried to put a oil gauge on it, didnt have the right fittings. i replaced the switch about two years ago but ive got another on its way, should be here tomorrow. hoping so bad its just the fuckin switch.

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