]2eDeYe Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Not much rustier than the car :lol: 1 Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 subi motors are not so bad. the 1.8l (EA81) that came in the early 80's models are super simple. and the plugs are ALOT easier to get to lol. head gaskets on the other hand.... easier to pull the motor to repair it. You should just swap all the drive train then and have a 4x4 slammed 510 hhahaha Link to comment
INDY510 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 . the L16 fits,,,,, pushed back towards the firewall ~2.5" .... ... and raised ~1" ..... . . 1/4" hood clearance Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 how much ground clearance do you get from the pan? Link to comment
INDY510 Posted April 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 . The oil pan is on the ground,,,,, and the valve cover's hitting the hood: .... ... the T/C rod cups used to be on the ground Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 just get rid of the sump in the pan... then put a kick out on the oil pan to get your capacity back... that'd have to give ya like 3 inches to play with... :lol: Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Dry sump. DO IT. 1 Link to comment
Josh K. Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Find a Used 12A or 13B and done! Did you remove that poor tail light panel with a hatchet? :poke: Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 :( If I had this motor I'd be cleaning it up, rebuilding it and using it in my Race car. What can I say.... I love L16's By the way... Awesome progress and pics today :thumbup: :thumbup: Link to comment
carterb Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 You can dry sump if you want but you are forgetting about the flywheel and tranny. They are about the same depth (if not deeper) as the pan. If you are that serious about reducing the depth, you will have to use some custom small diameter flywheel with a torque tube going back to a rear transaxle. Link to comment
VintageRice Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa hayabusa 1 Link to comment
greengoon Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 This build is so awesome. It epitomizes Ratsun so well- the do it yourself mentality. Start cutting and then make it work. Learn as you go. Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 u should check compression on that motor maybe its a runner..,.. Link to comment
RedBanner Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Indy = bawse :cool: Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 First on page 38!! lol Here is a 1200 Hayabusa .... Pretty cool... http://youtu.be/6tU35bIuEVQ Link to comment
INDY510 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 . Well shure,,,, if I had to choose my dream motor,,,,, it'd be a toss up between the Hartley H1 or the Hartley H2 Hartley has custom CNC'd a new lower crankcase cutting out the bike transmission .. they make a 2.8L V8 siamese twin busa motor for $28k or what I want in a Datsun 1200... the 1.4L Hayabusa motor without a bike tranny ,,,, for $12k http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dLft3fLtKs Those ITB's would still be sticking through the hood .... . :confused: that's where a GSXR 1000 in the passenger seat makes more sense: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cV4HdsDZX6c Link to comment
Indey Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Car looks great, motor looks like zombie motor though :rofl: Link to comment
INDY510 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 You can dry sump if you want but you are forgetting about the flywheel and tranny. They are about the same depth (if not deeper) as the pan. If you are that serious about reducing the depth, you will have to use some custom small diameter flywheel with a torque tube going back to a rear transaxle. This.... is why I'm not even considering dry sump .... ... and Byron says it's WAY too much work / money u should check compression on that motor maybe its a runner..,.. It wasn't a runner 15 years ago when I pulled it out of my first 510 .... :lol: This build is so awesome. It epitomizes Ratsun so well- the do it yourself mentality. Start cutting and then make it work. Learn as you go. This project was already done, in my head, before I started,,,,, , but I don't think ANY of my ideas on paper actually worked there's something about just cutting into a project,,, with caution to the wind...... if it works: great,,,, if it doesn't,, keep cutting.. :lol: So now that the engine bay and motor are tangible canvases in front of me,,,, ,,, here's what I "want" to do: --- Raise the camber plates 3/4" higher than stock ..... any higher and the hood won't shut --- Raise the front crossmemeber 1.5" ..... . the control arms are already raised 1 inch --- Raise the steering box 1.5" ....... .. I already have race 510 dropped steering arms for the 1" raised LCA's --- Raise the motor 1.5" --- push the motor back into the firewall ...... 3" farther back than stock the steering and LCA's are going to be too close to the frame rails ,,,,, so raising new square tube front frame rails is an option The steering is hitting the oil pan,,,,,,,,nothing a sawzall can't fix ...... :lol: 3 Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 or maybe bring the frame rails narrower and make bigger wheel tubs? Massive steering lock, yo... This is really, really cool. I say supercharge or twincharge the L16!!!! Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 HOLY SHIT do you still need a rear floor LOL Link to comment
Godzilla Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) <p>dude!!!! mad skills ! i like what u doing keep it coming.id love to own a 510 that low. your car reminds me of my first car fully custom beetle .i couldent go to malls cause i couldent go over speedhimps.lol yes it was that low.but back then wen u young and dumb u dont care as long as its slamed ! lol but now im not young anymore hahahahhaha</p> Edited April 12, 2012 by Godzilla Link to comment
RedBanner Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Keeps me coming back every day at lunch, rockin it mang! You should totaly use that valve cover lol! Link to comment
INDY510 Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 HOLY SHIT do you still need a rear floor LOL Thanks,,,, but I'm going to use thicker than stock metal for the rear floor ........ B) ..... Datsun sheet metal is WAY too thin yeah ive been thinking air bags. solid rear end and a series tiny engine. As much as I hate bags, This would be awesome with some yeah this thing needs bags bad I also believe Indy will be going to bags whenever his body is structurally finished. Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 what kind of LCA travel you get with it in the stock mounting hole? you raised the crossmember so much you dont have to mount in the hole thats been raised... what kind of inserts are that short? Link to comment
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