Jump to content

carterb

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    4,550
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by carterb

  1. At this point I'm thinking left front damage aside - it appears to be a pretty solid car - VERY important when considering a car from Japan - and original paint as best I can tell. So I ask Maiko, now with Davey Japan, to discuss with the lot owner both the price and the ability for us to come view and drive the car. Davey sent out Patrick to view the car. I believe he is from Australia (so he speaks English) which was great because he was able to call me on the phone while looking at the car so he could answer any specific questions I had. He was not really familiar with Bluebirds but was able to confirm to the best of his judgement that the car was original as presented. The car was running but not drive-able due to a clutch issue. I suspected it was just frozen to the flywheel but I couldn't convince him or the lot owner to try to break it free. He also sent some additional photos. Note L14 engine size - not L15 as advertised. Nissan tool kit! Crash damage appears to be limited to area around headlight - no further into the chassis. Crash victims Nice interior! Funky clearcoat (?) What rust though? Must have been just a glancing blow... Spare parts to be included with the car more spares Well.... Nothing left to do now but make up my mind! Is this the one?
  2. carterb

    Seat Belts

    I use the "euro" seatbelt from retrobelt https://www.retrobelt.com/collections/shoulder-belts/products/european-style-shoulder-belt-with-hardware-included The inside receiver is mounted on a stiff cable extension that puts it right where you would expect it to be. I mount the retractor real and the other anchor on the same bolt (stock location) on the inside of the rocker/sill.
  3. carterb

    Seat Belts

    Here is the anchor on my coupe - about 2" back from the B pillar. You can feel it with your finger under the headliner. And here is the 4dr location - about 3 1/2" back from the B pillar. Notice how much wider the B-pillar is in the 4dr!
  4. And the photos from the ad. At our prompting - they added a large number of them to the listing. This was definitely enough to continue my interest in the car.
  5. Here are some copies of the actual ad (this one was listed by a dealer - not an auction) in both japanese and english. Not much info about the car itself - other than identifying it as a 1500DX (which doesn't exist)
  6. Then, at the end of October 2019, this one showed up again, but with more pictures this time and a significantly lower list price - 1,200,000 Yen. So I started work with my importer to see if I could get more information and details on post purchase expenses to see if it would fit my budget. Obviously there was some front end damage but it looked minimal in these tiny pics so worth exploring...
  7. You guys remember Granny, my 1972 1400DX that was totaled back in the end of 2017... Well, although I did/do have plans to rebuild - I know it is not going to happen any time soon so every since that time - I had been looking for another Bluebird to bring over to play with and drive in the interim. Unfortunately, the prices have kept rising in Japan - possibly faster than here. Decent cars are price between 2,000,000 - 3,000,000 Yen (~$20-30K) and many of those are "restored" so who knows what is under the fresh paint. Not to mention that $20-30K is just to buy the car - you still have to get it here. On the other end of the spectrum are cars like this: Which would still cost nearly $10,000 just to put in my driveway by the time you buy the car, pay the agent commission, ship it, pay customs and all other fees, taxes, etc.. I did find a few to inquire about like this one with an opening bid of 1,470,000 Yen. Basically a carbon copy of Granny but with a price 2x what I paid. This '69 was close with a starting bid of 1,000,000 Yen (I don't remember what it was bid to) This '71 was in similar condition to Granny but listing for 2,500,000 Yen!!! I actually bid on this one but lost out to someone taking the BIN price of 750,000 Yen. It would have been a project - the interior was pretty roached - but at the time I figured I'd just swap over all of grannies goodies. Then I tried to buy this one at the dealer auction but it was pulled before the auction ended (apparently common in Japan?) This one looked good but there was only one picture - and still, listed for 1,800,000 Yen. Whitebird even came up for sale on BAT during this time which was awfully tempting. I figured it would be a stretch but had many of the mods I'd be planning and it was already in the US. It was bid to $20K and didn't sell though. I assume a post auction offer led to a new home. I don't know why I can't find it now but there was another one that I was 2nd in line on but the first one on site took it. : ( I was losing hope...
  8. Finally, the radiator arrived! Complete with giant puncture hole in the box - inches from the "FRAGILE" sticker. Thanks. No - really! : ( I got the radiator from Rock Auto. I assumed I'd be getting a Champion aluminum radiator or something like that bout was surprised to find there isn't an offering for the 620 (that is bolt in) so I ended up with one of the plastic tank - aluminum core - aftermarket radiators. I was worried at first but that is now all the new OEM radiators are built so... Fortunately, the box damage did not extend to the radiator itself: So I drained the old radiator and got ready for the swap. Out with the old In with the new Would you believe it is 100% bolt in?! The only thing that did not match the factory fitment was a missing hoop to catch the radiator overflow line on the side of the radiator. It even has the little bracket to mount the electrical box near the distributor. I was both amazed and impressed. Here you can see the damage to the stock radiator. I would like to have repaired it or replaced it with another stock radiator but now that this aftermarket one is in... I'm glad I switched. I can't believe how much cooler the truck runs now. I don't have a gauge with numbers but in terms of sweep on the gauge, it runs at least ten degrees (geometry) cooler. Very happy with that. Still need to due some work on the SU tuning and possibly timing, and the engine makes quite a racket at idle. Timing chain rattle? It didn't do it before the head swap, but now does it constantly. I'll try to share a video next time I think of it.
  9. I ordered a new radiator and the leak turned out to be so minimal - we were able to still drive the truck a few days while waiting for it to arrive. To say thank you for its dependable service - I rubbed down the whole truck with TR3. Never has it looked so good! And now all the panels look really nice together. Some of them looked like a slightly different color to their neighbor due to different levels of oxidation.
  10. Now the next bit of excitement - A couple weeks ago, Corey and I were idling in the parking lot at work making our way to the exit so we could get on the road to head home and all the sudden *BANG! WHIRR WHIRR WHIRR WHIRR* Oh crap! What is it now?! I backed into a nearby parking spot, turned off the truck and got out to look what happened. I started looking under the truck at the rear when Corey yells "found it!". He was up front and noticed the engine fan was sticking out from below the core support - nearly touching the ground. What the?! I popped the hood and confirmed that the fan had left it's moorings and tried run for freedom out the bottom of the truck. With the fan now in - hand - and finding the mounting ring fully in tact and the fan only slightly damaged by some rubbing of the spinning water pump, I disconnected the upper radiator hose and removed the fan shroud. I was surprised at this point to find the fan mounting screws still fully installed in the fan clutch. I was not surprised at this point to find that the dislodged fan had stricken the radiator and caused a leak. : ( I reinstalled the fan, topped off the radiator, and got ready to head home - figuring I'd have to pay close attention to the temp gauge. We made it home no problem and hardly lost a drop of additional coolant. Even under pressure, the hole isn't enough to create a stream, just a drip. Still - the radiator would need replacing and I'm embarrassed to fully realize what happened at this point. There are 12 holes in the mounting ring on the fan. Four are intended for mounting and are just larger than the bolt diameter. The other 8 are for??? and - as I just discovered - are big enough to slip over a bolt head. Despite my efforts to get it right, with the fan shroud disconnected but in place around the fan (I thought it had to be?), barely enough space for my man hands between the fan and the radiator, and no visual of the actual screw holes in the fan and clutch, I must have installed the bolts in the wrong fan holes so for the last 3 months, it was either not bolted down at all, or just barely under the corners of the bolt heads. *sigh*
  11. Allot has happened since the end of April and Bruiser has gotten quite a bit of use. You may have noticed in the "Swamp Thing" thread that the truck started running VERY POORLY on our trip to Shelton at the end of June. I found that one of the SU floats had sunk but was able to make trackside repairs to get back home to Lynnwood. I figured since one was down - the other was not likely far behind so I ordered a pair of new floats from Z Therapy upon my return. They arrived later that week. Here is a new composite float vs an old brass one: In the process of swapping them out I found a few very interesting things: 1) After a week of driving, some of the sealant I had used to back up my float repair had unsurprisingly failed and was found floating around in the fuel bowl. 2) The fuel was actually getting in the float via a crack, not a failed seam as I had originally thought. (who knows, maybe both?) 3) BOTH floats had taken on fuel - not just the one I repaired. The 2nd one didn't have much but you could still hear it rattle inside the float. 4) When I repaired the float in Shelton, when I scraped off the solder covering the factory hole in the top of the float, the fuel inside came squirting out like a punctured can of pop! It was actually pressurized!!! How in the heck can fuel get in there against the internal pressure? After the repair, I knew the chances were pretty good that I hadn't seen the last of this issue. I pulled out all the old sealant I could see from the float bowl but come on... With my luck? On the 2nd drive with the repaired truck - on the way home from the grocery store with my wife, the truck suddenly lost power and forced me to stumble into the nearest parking lot I could find. I removed the fuel line from the float bowl to the carb and it was clear. Then I removed the nozzle from the bottom of the SU carb and found this jammed in there: Reassembled everything and was back on the road with full power: Hopefully that will be the end of it!
  12. That session was followed by some internet purchases - new front brake pads and a center rear brake light. I got the same Power Stop pads we bought last time - plus a racier set - to see if they hold up to the heat a little better - Jeff was complaining about brake fade toward the end of his stint. What good is a brake light if it doesn't have "Excellent brightness"?! Also, I traded a local 510 guy a nice set of bumper over-riders for a RWD SR20DE distributor assy Oh - forgot these in the last post: Swamp Thing ready for the next step. Looking at our fueling situation - we have concluded that the fill spout is holding us back. The fill tube is vented - but the vent is just this little hole - plus, our fueling jugs fit in the housing just right and even block that off!!! We are going remove the inner tube and bore out the cut and door at the base of the filler neck. That way, we'll just be dumping fuel into the giant hose - with plenty of room for air to escape. We might also have more of a warning when we are approaching full.
  13. With our next race not scheduled 'till the end of September - and since we finished Shelton with a running car, things have slowed down a little with the Swamp Thing. We did get together a couple weeks ago to look over the car and revise our to do list. but before we got started - I wanted to get some pictures of my 510 whale tail on the race car in order to help make some "for sale" ads for it. The lighting was not kind but here are some pics anyway... Well this turned out to be a real mistake because Jeff and Sam think it is "Radical" and "Awesome" and "Excellent" and all the other good 80's T-shirt expressions and now want to run it on our car at the next race! Sam's not even worried that he might not be able to see over it. Speaking of, he took on the unenviable task of replacing the starter (the old one worked but sounded like a tin can full of rocks) while Jeff removed the driver's seat (calm down ladies)
  14. Same as above in B&W I really like these. If it weren't for the modern cars in the background - you'd think they were vintage shots.
  15. some pics of Jeff's Chocolate Covered Circus Peanut - 1970 SR20DE standard Coupe from back in February 44
  16. carterb

    Seat Belts

    I'm sure you have the mounting point. Just attop the b-pillar on a 2dr/coupe, a little farther back on a 4dr/wagon (actually - likely the same spot relative to the roof - the b-piller is just farther forward) Happy to take some measurements for you if you need. As for kits - look at https://www.retrobelt.com/ https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/ etc...
  17. 1972 Datsun 510 2dr $8,999 to open https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Datsun-Other/264813069149?hash=item3da816c35d:g:MA8AAOSwbVJfIf1u Up for sale is a Datsun 510 that I have owned on and off over the years. Got this car in 2005 from an older man that had not driven the car since the late 80's. Car was originally painted a green color from the factory but was painted white at some point. Cleaned out gas tank and put new rubber fuel hoses and fuel filler neck hose on. Rebuilt brake and clutch master cylinder, clutch slave and replaced rear drum wheel cylinders and got brakes working. Car has Weber 2 barrel downdraft carburetor L16 motor, manual transmission and aluminum wheels. Front driver floor pan has a "For Sale" sign installed by previous owner covering hole. Passenger floor pan has some rust holes and will need to be replaced as well as the drivers if it is to look original. Rear seat floor pans are in good shape, a little rust around the body plugs. Spare tire well was rusted out and has had a patch welded in by previous owner, see pic. Left and right rear quarters have some damage, see pics. Hood had rust around the latch and had hood pins put in. Frame of car is in great shape. Rear seat cover separating at the seams. Got everything working on the car and was daily driven occasionally over a couple of years. Tried to keep car as original as possible and use factory parts. I Sold the car in 2008 and bought it back in 2011 from different person. Car was still running but rear differential had a cracked spider gear and will need fixing before driving. I put the car into storage and have not had time to work on the car since then.
  18. 1971 Datsun 510 4dr $10,000 to open https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-sedan/224101306414?hash=item342d7a902e:g:zAwAAOSwBJpfJIHt Since I've owned the car (May 2012), this is what I've done to it: 1) Rebuilt front end (ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, idler arm, all but the center link, but I have that part to include) 2) Rebuilt front calipers, new pads, rotors did not need turning, still nice and thick. Replaced bearings and seals. Also, rebuilt rear drum brake calipers and shoes, springs. New master brake cylinder installed. 3) Rebuilt front suspension with new stock type McPherson front struts and Nismo springs (Nissan performance division). Rear suspension rebuilt with inflatable shocks and D50 springs. 4) New stock fuel pump, new dual fuel lines and linkages leading to dual SU carbs. Fabricated air cleaner made by Mr Marshall (local 510 guru). All works very well. Periodically add Marvel Mystery Oil into top of the SUs. 5) Installed 5-speed tranny from 1981 Nissan pick-up, rebuilt by Marshall. Shortened drive shaft, new U-joints and rear tranny seal. New clutch on that 5-speed while I had it out. 6) New exhaust system by Nathan Marshall. Special extended 2 into 1 hand-made header, new resonator and muffler. 7) New Futofab anti-sway bar in front and rear. 😎 New Kumho tires on 70s era turbine mags, originally for 240Z cars (I'm told...from Marshall's parts pile). Stock wheels, hubcaps and new Kumho tires come with the car in case you want to go stock (see picture). Tires have been stored in the dark, filled with nitrogen, good as new. 9) Interior essentially unchanged post restoration. Going to 5-speed, the shifter moved rear about 3-4" and I had to cut the carpet. Typical cracks in the dashboard. 10) Trunk in good shape. Lid has a crack in the paint (see picture). Looks like body putty may have been used here at some point? 11) Body has some "cancer" (rust bubbles) here and there which I've tried to photograph. The underside is still in excellent shape. Overall, the body and paint have held up well. 12) New chrome rear bumper from Futofab, look like stock only better (thicker and no center seam, which always rusts). 13) New front and rear OEM window gaskets installed. Front has a chrome insert that I could not get in, but obviously it comes with it…maybe buyer can? Obviously, odometer is what it is...who knows? Included is a fresh L16 rebuilt engine. The present engine is strong and doesn't use oil. I just had an extra sitting in my crawlspace and thought I'd throw it into the deal to help sell the car. It's an excellent rebuild job. Also included, you can see the rear panel has cracking. I'm including a Futofab rear panel in case the buyer wants to replace this panel sooner or later. This has been an excellent car. Everywhere you go in this car, people will wave at you, smile at you, want to talk to you, tell you about the Datsun they had or their mother had. I'm getting over the hill to continue crawling around under it. Thanks for your interest.
  19. Code: 146840675110996708 Thank You for Being a RockAuto Customer for over 14 Years! Using your discount code is easy! Enter your discount code in the 'How Did You Hear About Us?' box without any other numbers or characters for an additional 5% savings. Discounts cannot be applied once an order is marked as shipped. Your code expires on September 27, 2020, 12:00 Midnight CT, so do not wait! SHOP NOW at https://www.rockauto.com Share Your Code! There is no limit on order size or number of orders - use your code on your next order, and share it with your friends and family! RockAuto uses Customer Lobby to measure our performance. Please take a moment to complete a short survey. https://www.customerlobby.com/reviews/5604/rockautocom/write
  20. It is not difficult at all, but the small screws holding the wiper pivots down are often rusted in place and so need to be drilled out and replaced. There is a clip that holds the motor arm to the wiper assembly under the cowl. Remove the clip (and don't lose it) and the rest is self explanatory. --carter
  21. Candy Apple Red 1970(ish) Datsun 510 wagon for sale in Japan 2,300,000 Yen https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v735178326 [Representation of a friend's vehicle] 510 Bluebird Wagon Reverse car left H Solex 2000cc lowdown vehicle inspection delivery consultation required Land transportation delivery consultation required comment Thank you very much for seeing it. If there is even one bid, it will be sold out. This vehicle is a friend's personal vehicle, but I will be responsible for handling it until the end, instead of a friend without an account. We will answer your questions after asking a friend, so please be patient. We do not think that we can respond to technical details too much. Thank you. Since it is important, I will list the details of the transaction first, so although it is a long sentence, I am waiting for a bid after understanding the content. [About bidding] *Thank you for bidding for those who can trade at 3N. *We will judge that the bid without confirming the current car is a bid after you are satisfied with the image, description, question etc. *We do not accept cancellation after bidding. *Please stop annoying mischievous bidding, such as a child bidding or making a mistake. [About bidding qualifications] *We will only accept those who have a total rating of 5 or more and a rating of 95% or more. *Please note that even if you make a bid, it will be deleted (blacklisted) by the end of the auction. *If you are close to a new bid and wish to bid, please write your name and phone number in the question column (we will respond privately) [Promise after successful bid] *Please promise "contact within 24 hours" and "pay within 72 hours" after a successful bid. In the unlikely event that you do not receive the above contact or payment, we will process "Cancel due to the highest bidder convenience". *For one-sided cancellation, you will be charged 20,000 yen including the listing fee, nuisance fee, and relisting labor fee . ・After you make a successful bid, if you can confirm the payment, you will be ready to hand over the vehicle (vehicle inspection, land transportation setup, etc.). In any case, please understand that we will not deliver the car until you can confirm the deposit. [About delivery] * Please apply for the garage certificate before the vehicle (in case of temporary deletion, this is not the case) *The successful bidder will pick up the item directly from the loaded vehicle or make an arrangement with the land transportation company. * Unless the prefecture is too far away, the Bluebird owner will transport it by loading vehicle. (We will quote if you inform the prefecture from the question column ) [Regarding name change] ・Please change the name by yourself. ・A deposit of 30,000 yen will be required as a deposit until the name change is completed. ・In principle, the name change date will be within 2 weeks after delivery of the vehicle, and we will refund as soon as we can confirm the vehicle verification after the name change. 【Description of item】 The left handle of the rare 510 Bluebird Wagon. *Vehicle verification statement is "L16" engine, and currently "L18" is installed. Currently, we have not been certified. If you are interested, please consult a shop that is likely to get official engine replacement after a successful bid (I heard that it is relatively easy to authorize the same model of engine) The engine is 2000cc based on L18 that Kameari assembled, so it seems to run well (the specification details when assembled are not left, but it seems that the crank, piston, head, cam etc. are all touched) We have changed the engine, so the mileage is unknown. It has been running for about 3000km since the OH tuning engine was put on two years ago. Those who need it will sell the L16 engine and L13 engine separately. (Please consult about the amount and shipping etc.) I think that the exterior paint is glossy and is at a level that can be said to be beautiful for the age model, but there is one floating rust on the roof rail, and a paint crack near the roof of the A pillar (the sticker can be peeled off). There are some cracks in the stainless steel molding, cracks in the front turn signal lens, etc. The rear hatch is smoothed and fitted with FRP bumpers. I think the interior is suitable for the year. (Some of the ceiling seats are torn, some of the rear seats are torn, and some of the rear hatch ceiling inner covers are out of stock.) Additional meters (octopus, water temperature), CD deck (USB plug in) in the console, seat replacement, etc. are not original. Although the owner is a non-smoker, it is an old car, so please think that it has a unique smell. There are lower, engine room, rust and scratches and dents suitable for the year. The model year is unknown, but it seems that it will be the final model year (medium grill) We hope that you will continue to enjoy the finishing touches of the winning bidders. Since it is a vehicle about 50 years ago, I think it is not suitable for nervous people who want perfection and those who think of modern cars. Since it is an old vehicle, the history of restoration is unknown. It seems that the mileage display is replaced by a Km display meter. There are no removed normal parts. The vehicle inspection has expired in R2.7/3, and the number is currently attached. You can also hand over after receiving a 2 year vehicle inspection for 150,000 yen separately. ( Please separate the automobile tax monthly installment ) Although it is by land transport, the owner can also carry it by car to the house, so if you are interested please contact us in the question column (I'm sorry, I will refuse if it is too far) I think that you may receive it.) *a nice place Equipped with an L18 base 2000cc engine assembled by Kameari (It seems that the owner was an unused Eg after OH storage, about 800,000 yen including parts charges) Lowback 5th speed (owner's stock item and exchanged together when Eg is installed) Solex 40π (setting at an old car specialty store aiming for comfortable riding in the city. Of course, you can run without stress if you step on it) A one-off stainless muffler from the back of the exhaust manifold. Volume is high (If you are interested, please adjust with a baffle etc.) The driver seat and passenger seat are Recaro seats LS that look good on old cars? LX? Exchanged for. Three-layer radiator (replaced with hose) Front lowdown harmonic drive disc brake (maker, spring rate unknown) Rear lowdown (1 leaf inversion + 3 inch block) Added race tachometer. Addition of water temperature gauge. Encaishing aluminum wheel 14 inches The overall appearance is glossy and looks beautiful (the engine room is unpainted) Front and rear FRP bumpers. Unusually noticeable. Luggage can be loaded easily. * Bad places There are scratches due to lowdown on the lower side. The engine room is unpainted (there is rust stain) There is a hole in the ceiling sheet. There is a partial tear on the rear seat. The cover inside the rear hatch is missing (the part that covers the hinge part near the ceiling) There is one floating rust. There is one paint crack. In addition, please think that there are rust, exfoliation, dents, scratches, etc. that are overlooked. The automobile tax will be increased. I think the fuel economy is around 10km/L with high-octane running normally (I don't think it's bad because my bull is like that, though.) The information in the vehicle information is subjectivity of myself and the owner, so it cannot be guaranteed. It's an old car that's been around for 50 years, so suddenly tomorrow, it's possible that something will go wrong. * To the highest bidder who wishes to pass the vehicle inspection ・It does not mean heavy maintenance. You can only do the minimum things by taking a car inspection. ・The number of days it takes to embark on after the name change will involve the Bon Festival, so I would like you to make a plan with a margin around the end of August (even if you hurry, it is impossible) ・Please submit an application for garage certification during the vehicle inspection. [Payment total amount] I can't find a recycling ticket, so I don't get a recycling fee (just because it doesn't mean that there is no problem with registration). In case of vehicle inspection delivery + land transportation The highest bid + monthly tax ¥26,300 (since September) + vehicle inspection fee ¥150,000 + land transportation fee (varies by region) Car inspection delivery + successful bidder land transportation arrangement The highest bid + monthly tax ¥26300 (since September) + vehicle inspection fee ¥150,000 In case of temporary cancellation and land transportation The highest bid + land transportation fee (varies by region) Temporary cancellation + successful bidder land transportation arrangement Only the highest bid I hope that you have a good relationship.
  22. Safari Gold 1970 Standard Bluebird Coupe 3,800,000 Yen https://www.goo-net.com/usedcar/spread/goo/15/700020788530200724001.html Nissan bluebird coupe Coupe/original color safari brown 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.