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Topher's 72 SR 510


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SO i finally got her to a stage where i felt "comfortable" driving her the 45 minutes home from my dads shop. Let me tell you that was a hell of a ride. first off mid shift my flipping shifter came loose and fell out (sketchy!) the electric fan stooped working so i decided to simply run a wire from the battery to the fan and so now i need to see if a relay went out or something. The L20 got up in the 220's a few times when i was sitting a stop singes. Previous owner said the aluminum radiator that he bought for the car may be to big to cool the engine so im thinking of just putting a rabbit radiator in there and see if that fixes things. Even tho i was sweating my balls of and freaking out that something i forgot to tighten was going to fall off it was still one of the most memorable drives of my life (in a good way). got at least 5 thumb up's witch made me grin :-) man this thing is loud and the suspension is epic. I was driving he home today after picking up some craft beers from a friend and some lady in a white S class came within a foot of slamming into me. i had to go into the other lane just to miss her and luckily my suspension was up to the job. all i need now is some coil overs in the back. next on my to do list. Cant wait to sort out the fan problem and get this thing a little more road worthy. IMG_2692.jpg

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Awesome! and not so awesome. I feel the exact same way, and experienced the same sort of things you did. I've had my 510 for almost a month now, and still trying to get it "road worthy". I too was sweating my ass off making sure that I was in full control of the car. Where I'm at now is I have the carb rebuilt, but now have blue smoke coming out the exhaust. Also found out that my new oil filter didn't have any oil in it at all, bone dry.

 

I've gotten plenty of thumbs up though, and stares. It is an awesome feeling, but now planning out the SR swap now. The original plan was suspension/brakes much like your doing which is why I'm always checking your thread out.

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Haha thanks man. Well I just got the quote for a compleat rebuild on my L20 and the guy wants to charge ne 1400 for the re build. For that an a little more I could just to an SR swap... Idk time to re think my engine situation... Any suggestions? Lol

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Exactly....maybe not a little more. I did some calculations, and it'll add up fast. But it could be $1400 into an SR20 that was gonna go into the car anyways. It just happened sooner that I would've hoped. Like I said, I was looking to do suspension and brakes just like you and enjoy the L18 a little while longer.

 

I've already started the talks with getting the SR20, and picking brains with a few knowledgeable locals already. Hopefully should be starting in a few weeks.

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1400 for a L motor is most like the usual.

The big Radiator statment dont make sense. Its should cool it.

Try another thermostat. Is the hose collaspsing under load(when reved up)?

 

Hidden cost in a SR swap/

relays ,high pressure pumps, fuel returns ect drivleine shortning. new clutch maybe a bad ECU motor mounts.

ever buying 700$ MOTOR YOULL BE OVER 3K MIN INTO IT!!!!!!!and maybe still not done. and you have a back up plane in case its not done.

Chebito510 on here pulled his motor to do a SR now nobody is helping him. Fucked up the wiring!!!!!!!!installing a L motor would be 4 hour max and back on the road

 

L motors are EZ to be hard on the used market But ones and just drive the car.

Hate to see another on the side of the house. Its a cool car!!!!!!!!just drive it.

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1400 for a L motor is most like the usual.

The big Radiator statment dont make sense. Its should cool it.

Try another thermostat. Is the hose collaspsing under load(when reved up)?

 

Hidden cost in a SR swap/

relays ,high pressure pumps, fuel returns ect drivleine shortning. new clutch maybe a bad ECU motor mounts.

ever buying 700$ MOTOR YOULL BE OVER 3K MIN INTO IT!!!!!!!and maybe still not done. and you have a back up plane in case its not done.

Chebito510 on here pulled his motor to do a SR now nobody is helping him. Fucked up the wiring!!!!!!!!installing a L motor would be 4 hour max and back on the road

 

L motors are EZ to be hard on the used market But ones and just drive the car.

Hate to see another on the side of the house. Its a cool car!!!!!!!!just drive it.

 

Exactly hidden turbo engine swaps. Intercooler and radiator will be around a g alone. Lz22 is a good choice

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Im going to pass on the 240. I would love to do an SR but Idk about you but 2 grand will take me a some months to save up and I want to make a solid drive train like rear coil overs, subi LSD, rear disk brakes, axils and stuff like that before I put the power in. I'm fine putting around in an l20 for a year or so. It's peppy and a fun thing to drive. I may be slow but I'll be able to take turns like a mofo and by the time I save up the money for the SR I'll enjoy it that much more.

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I'm not to afraid of attempting an SR any more. Ever since i sold my old engine I relies now I should have kept the motor but oh well. I just don't want my car to be sitting for months while I save up for a motor. I did a compression test on the motor and it came up 145 135 149 150 so not bad for an old ass engine. I need to figure out why my engine is pumpping out oil.

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When I put my engine back in my car, I was building a EGR block off plate so I had my lower crank case breather just dangling in the engine bay. This would push oil out the valve cover breather. Once I got the lower hooked up the mess went away. If you have yours hooked up you may want to look at the PCV valve that should be hooked to your intake manifold. If it were stuck shut, that could be your problem.

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the dip stick was like 4 inches to short so i replaced it with an L20b dip stick. i filled up the engine with over 7Q just so that it read on the old dip stick so that explains why there was so much oil coming out. so did an oil chance and put 4q in and now shes running good oil wise but its still running around 200-210 so now i am going to install a new 180 thermostat today and see if that fixes it. if not ill start working down the list. radiator is aluminum and plenty big along with the nice 10" electric fan so im hoping the thermostat fixes the problem.

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Looks great.

 

Be prepared to spend a minimum 5k on your sr swap. I know iam in the hole for around 12k so far

 

haha yup thats why i want to do that last. first i want to make a bad ass track car that can handle like a beast then then make it perform like one

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I picked up my 280zx front strut and brakes at the Eagle Rock swap meet this weekend. Is it possible to share your setup list? (i.e. what inserts, top hats, camber kits, rotors, lines, where did you buy online)? Thanks for any info you can share.

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I picked up my 280zx front strut and brakes at the Eagle Rock swap meet this weekend. Is it possible to share your setup list? (i.e. what inserts, top hats, camber kits, rotors, lines, where did you buy online)? Thanks for any info you can share.

 

Only if the next time im in SD you let me drive your M3 :-)

Struts are cut to fit Tokico MR2 inserts ONLY! (i tried anther brand and the did not work) so just cuz they are rear MR2 shocks dosnt mean you can make them for one brand and they will work for others.TOKICO HZ3099 SHOCK: MR2 87-89 (REAR). I purchased my pads and calipers from Rock Auto. All the adjustable aluminum bits and coil over sleeves i purchased from a local guy in Moreno Valley and he is usually half of what others are charging and he makes a great product. if there is something you want a little tweaked or different he can accommodate you and is very knowledgeable so if you need his number just hit me up. Hubs and rotors i picked up from a guy i know. Camber plates and the swivel top hat i purchased from T3. and i think that covers pretty much everything. If there is anything else you need let me know.

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Yesterday i started to fix some little things. put a stiffer spring on the throttle, picked up a wink mirror so now i can actually see, cleaned up my engine bay a little since there is no longer oil gushing out of crank case, hooked up my PCV and Crank case since again there is no oil coming out of it, tightened my bushing down on my shifter so hopefully it stops popping out lol. I still need to run a switch or something to my electric fan and there are still those rust holes in a few of my floor pans that i would really like to get fixed but cant find anyone that is up to the job. Im gona go take some pics of her now i think.

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Only if the next time im in SD you let me drive your M3 :-)

Struts are cut to fit Tokico MR2 inserts ONLY! (i tried anther brand and the did not work) so just cuz they are rear MR2 shocks dosnt mean you can make them for one brand and they will work for others.TOKICO HZ3099 SHOCK: MR2 87-89 (REAR). I purchased my pads and calipers from Rock Auto. All the adjustable aluminum bits and coil over sleeves i purchased from a local guy in Moreno Valley and he is usually half of what others are charging and he makes a great product. if there is something you want a little tweaked or different he can accommodate you and is very knowledgeable so if you need his number just hit me up. Hubs and rotors i picked up from a guy i know. Camber plates and the swivel top hat i purchased from T3. and i think that covers pretty much everything. If there is anything else you need let me know.

 

 

Thanks for all the info. And I'd definitely like to get the info on the guy from Moreno Valley if he ships. That would be awesome! Anytime your in SD, swing by and you can drive my M3, but more importantly maybe a swapped 510 (if everything goes through) ? :)

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On a side note, for the life of me I can't get a solid answer on this: How short do you cut the strut tube? Do you cut it so that the insert fits in it exactly?

 

That is what the guy i purchased them from said. he said you cut it to fit snugly. i believe i read somewhere it said that you cut it 2 inches or something like that. His name is Juan and his number is (951)2149555. He will ship. Me and some friends want to come to SD to hit up the Breweries that we haven't been to yet Alpine is the main one. We will of corse go to Stone, Lost Abby, Ballast Point and Pizza Port cuz they have amazing beer.

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That is what the guy i purchased them from said. he said you cut it to fit snugly. i believe i read somewhere it said that you cut it 2 inches or something like that. His name is Juan and his number is (951)2149555. He will ship. Me and some friends want to come to SD to hit up the Breweries that we haven't been to yet Alpine is the main one. We will of corse go to Stone, Lost Abby, Ballast Point and Pizza Port cuz they have amazing beer.

 

 

And here I am, living in SD and don't know all that you know about breweries here. Thanks again for all the info (Breweries and Juan)!

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picked up a center link from Autozone now im trying to find a new idler arm and am having NO LUCK! once bad thing about having multiple vehicles is that its so flipping hard to figure out where to spend your money. all the good stuff cost lots of money but there are so many little things that need attention its hard to save up lol. my other money pit

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/29083-88-4runner-exo-cage-rock-crawler/page__p__432520__hl__4runner__fromsearch__1#entry432520

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