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Rear Coilover Options


sssr20det510

What ones do you like  

24 members have voted

  1. 1. What ones do you like

    • T3
      9
    • Topmotoring
      14
    • Troy Ermish
      14
    • GC
      7


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  • 8 months later...

Dave Patten just sent over this on the BBlist !! Thanks Dave

 

DR7855P $140.00 each

 

(Shock P/N, "P" is for poly bushings not rod ends, shocks are 12 way adjustable w/compression and rebound in one knob so both adjust together, coil over spring mounts are included in the cost)

 

 

 

SS110SDM $25.00 each

 

(This is the conversion kit to change from eye to stud at top.)

 

 

 

14CS200 $45.00

 

(QA1 coil over springs, 14" free height, 200# rate, 2.5" ID)

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

Dave Patten just sent over this on the BBlist !! Thanks Dave

 

DR7855P $140.00 each

 

(Shock P/N, "P" is for poly bushings not rod ends, shocks are 12 way adjustable w/compression and rebound in one knob so both adjust together, coil over spring mounts are included in the cost)

 

 

 

SS110SDM $25.00 each

 

(This is the conversion kit to change from eye to stud at top.)

 

 

 

14CS200 $45.00

 

(QA1 coil over springs, 14" free height, 200# rate, 2.5" ID)

 

 

 

 

Mega Bump!

I have QA1's in the rear of my 510 that need replacing.

How current are these options above?

I want stiff or my tires will rub in the rear. I want adjustable 2 way colis.

Most of these do not look like 2 way height/preload adjustable.

Also, has the quality of these setup been tested since last post?

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Why do you need to replace them?

 

If they are damaged then yes, but QA1 shocks can be rebuilt if they are just worn out.

 

The DR7855P shock I specified has a 7" travel with a 12.5" compressed length. The Monroe shock spec for a stock Datsun 510 is 13.4" compressed length. If the QA1 being used was a 9" travel shock (DR9855P) it has a compressed length of 15" which could have bottomed damaging the internal shock valving.

 

Ideally you would want as much travel as possible, but compressed shock lengths should be considered first. Using shocks with longer than stock compressed lengths could bottom the shock damaging it. This is why I choose the short length DR7855P shock, even though it has a shorter overall travel distance.

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Why do you need to replace them?

 

If they are damaged then yes, but QA1 shocks can be rebuilt if they are just worn out.

 

The DR7855P shock I specified has a 7" travel with a 12.5" compressed length. The Monroe shock spec for a stock Datsun 510 is 13.4" compressed length. If the QA1 being used was a 9" travel shock (DR9855P) it has a compressed length of 15" which could have bottomed damaging the internal shock valving.

 

Ideally you would want as much travel as possible, but compressed shock lengths should be considered first. Using shocks with longer than stock compressed lengths could bottom the shock damaging it. This is why I choose the short length DR7855P shock, even though it has a shorter overall travel distance.

 

The housings are damaged. The spring, over time, has rubbed through the housing to the threads where you unscrew the shock to rebuild it.

So I don't need a whole lot of travel. (No tire rubbing) What length would you suggest then? Should I get under the car when the coil is compressed and measure it to get a close idea of what shock length I need?

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  • 1 year later...

you cant buy rears for less than $200.

you cant even buy proper build materials for that much.

 

I tried to make cheaper sets because the cheapest stuff was was T3 at $650

Made em cheaper but there still $400 with the cheapest options.

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  • 7 years later...

Since 2010 I've had a 710 and one of the first things I did was lower it. I'm not spending $500 for coilovers, mainly because no one needs to adjust the ride height once you get it where you like it. That's a lot of money getting rusty while driving around doing nothing.  I lowered mine 2-3 inches, they are adjustable though maybe not as easily, but again you aren't adjusting them again once set, they have a 50% stiffer spring rate by careful trimming the stock front coil spring, and because I still had the original oil bath dampers (shocks) inside, I replaced the oil with higher viscosity motorcycle fork oil to firm them up. Everything came to less than $50 and a mornings work. Course it doesn't look like I spent $500, in fact it doesn't look like I did anything.

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I'd like to add for autoxing T3 rear coilovers suck.  To much rebound even on the lowest setting.  I changed to different dampers using the T3 parts to make them coilovers.  First dry day I got the fastest lap at the autox.  So if it's just a driver they are fine.  Racing not so much.   I haven't tried the others.  I want to get some custom valved 2 way adjustable Fortune Auto coilovers eventually.  

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Everyone is different in what they think suits them. Comfort vs. performance is one of them. I think 200 lb/in is about in the middle of the range. There's no other way to find what you want than by trying something. No one can advise you on what you will like.

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 The 710 has leaf springs just use lowering blocks and add a leaf to stiffen this is what I did on the rear of my 710.

 

If you mean for a 610 then you have the choice of replacing the rear coil. The Dodge Ram 50 front coils give a 150 lb/in rate and can be trimmed. If lowering, the rear wheels will camber and toe in. The usual cure is to slot the cross member of the rear IRS to 'raise' the rear control arms.   

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/25/2020 at 7:46 AM, datzenmike said:

 The 710 has leaf springs just use lowering blocks and add a leaf to stiffen this is what I did on the rear of my 710.

 

If you mean for a 610 then you have the choice of replacing the rear coil. The Dodge Ram 50 front coils give a 150 lb/in rate and can be trimmed. If lowering, the rear wheels will camber and toe in. The usual cure is to slot the cross member of the rear IRS to 'raise' the rear control arms.   

My 710 is IRS . the 200lbs coils are firm but nice . fitment of the spring was close to the shock tower .I may have to bend the lip a bit will keep an eye on it .

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  • 4 weeks later...

Like the T3 stuff.  Gabriel always treats you right (Which is hard to find in business' these days).  Quality parts.  Troy is expensive, ground control has not been good from people I talked to and I don't know the other company.  insert 2 pennies here!

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