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KA-Kait's 2dr. First Time Dime.


KA-Kait

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I say polish the the crap outa the Natzi wheels!

 

lol

 

I guess im just going ona polishing rampage with my 510 right now haha...

 

I was thinking.....what kinda diff are you running in your 2 door? Compared to the l20t that you guys drove? That might make a break a race between the KA wagon and the l20t haha, i would imagine that being a really interesting race hmmm lol

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I think in a straight line the l20bt would win, cars lighter, once the turbo spools its gone. On a real track though I think the ka's low tq availability would win because you could be flying out of the apexes.

 

Providing the difs, trans are stock and hp aprox.

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Diff is a stock R160. It comes with a replacement R160, too, included in the motorset. We'll be upgrading to R180 once it's driving.

 

As for the race, I agree. I think the L series would win. Providing the drivers are the same. However, me vs Kait? No questions asked, I'd pull out the win in any car I were driving!

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Diff is a stock R160. It comes with a replacement R160, too, included in the motorset. We'll be upgrading to R180 once it's driving.

 

As for the race, I agree. I think the L series would win. Providing the drivers are the same. However, me vs Kait? No questions asked, I'd pull out the win in any car I were driving!

 

I think there are too many variables to just jump to conclusions that any l20t would stomp a KA however...i mean the size of the turbo is still an unknown. Gearing on the diff also can play a large roll on either car as well...

 

IBitwillbeacloserace

 

Im curious to know how much boost you can run on a draw thru type setup like this before you have to run an intercooler though...I mean its cool right now, but i think ur gona wana invest in some kind of SMIC/FMIC or meth For when its starts warming up...

 

REGARDLESS Draw thru turbo L series is bad azz...lol, much kewl

 

Do you know what the CR is on the motor? (God, this is reminding me of my LZ23 lol)

Edited by XeroX
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Im curious to know how much boost you can run on a draw thru type setup like this before you have to run an intercooler though...I mean its cool right now, but i think ur gona wana invest in some kind of SMIC/FMIC or meth For when its starts warming up...

 

 

I would not ever run an intercooler on a draw through. The intercooler would be full of mixed fuel and air and under boost pressure. If the engine ever back fired it would blow the front end of the car off.

 

 

7 PSI is about 50% more air. If a stock L20B makes about 90 RWHP then in theory a 50% increase in power would net you 135 RWHP. About 157 HP at the crank.

Edited by datzenmike
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Hooray for grenades!

 

I think with the 7psi of boost, we shouldn't have an issue. We will be hooking up a boost gauge just to make sure there are no spikes. No idea on compression, though I'd assume it's stock internals. To our knowledge, only mod inside the motor is the cam, the rest is just a fresh rebuild. COULD BE MISTAKEN!!! No sense in fiddling with what we know is currently working, especially since we're just going to replace it with a KA-T when that time comes.

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What cam??? Turbo cams tend to be almost stock spec. You don't want to increase the overlap time where both the intake and exhaust valves are open. The pressurized intake will blow right through the intake valve and out the open exhaust. Not must to gain from this.... the exhaust manifold will get super heated from the waste fuel/air and so will the turbo, shortening it's life. Poorer gas mileage under any boost pressure.

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Keith Law ran a larger cam and has an exhaust temp gauge, an invaluable tool for analyzing what's going on inside turbo motor, and saw a huge temp increase and no difference in power that he expected. He switched back to the smaller cam. Admittedly he has a blow through set up so not a perfect example to use.

 

You want the exhaust closed and intake open close® to TDC so that the turbo can begin to cram the air in as much and fast as possible. As long as the exhaust valve is open, you have a huge pressure leak and the turbo works overtime getting no where.

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You want the exhaust closed and intake open close® to TDC so that the turbo can begin to cram the air in as much and fast as possible. As long as the exhaust valve is open, you have a huge pressure leak and the turbo works overtime getting no where.

 

Most turbo cams change the intake duration to cram more air in.

 

I agree about the egt, every turbo motor should have an egt and wide band.

Edited by 72240z
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so today was the day. Syclone916 gave me a ring-a-ling and let me know that the engine was ready for me to come pick up at my disposal. I loaded up the truck with my man muscle and hit the road. :D Thank heaven's for boyfriends and best friends.

 

the thing came out beautifully. couldn't have asked for anything better, truthfully.

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me standing on the tailgate looking mighty happy to see this thing in the bed of the truck.

 

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WagDatto and Syclone916

 

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The loot!

 

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and the muscle. Ricardo, WagDatto and Anthony (the BF)

 

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So we drove it home, backed her and got to work. not much else you COULD do, right?

 

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Here I am cutting off a metal hanger that was holding the old exhaust in place.poor thing. muahaha saw-zall's are fun though

 

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this is the only picture we managed to snag of it IN the car, it was cold, and rainy out and pizza was done and ready to eat so we ran inside after we very quickly picked up. Tomorrow I'll try to snap some more pictures of the thing inside and we're gonna MAYBE get some more work done, weather permitting. But it's in! once it's wired it's basically good to go!! Yikes, this feel like it came and went so quickly. I just want to sit in the drivers seat and BLAST down the road. :fu:

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Motor and transmission are both in. Motor mounts got bolted in. Transmission crossmember gets bolted in with the drive shaft tomorrow. Then the exhaust needs to be bolted/welded in, tranny gets filled with fluid, floorboard needs to be replaced and the wiring gets done this weekend!

 

Then, hopefully, it'll fire up and drive!

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Wow and I thought this a "just get it running build". What a nice surprise! Looking Great Kait. I guess it is all in how you choose your friends! Oh, and who you choose for friends! It is great to see such good friends helping each other! Keep it up it might help others get some needed help.

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For a "just get it running build," we strayed a little off the beaten path. Parts got painted and cleaned and rebuilt and replaced... Motor was looking quite sexy! Annnnnnd then we yanked it out, bought a different one, didn't clean A THING, and put it in instead, haha!

 

Her dad thought we were taking a step backwards, but the day after she yanked the motor, a new motorset was in. To my knowledge, tranny crossmember and drive shaft are going on today, and tranny will get filled with fluid... Down pipe is getting wrapped today, too, to keep some heat away from the master cylinders. We had some exhaust wrap left over after the old exhaust manifold, which is nice! I think about 2' will be more than enough, and it'll look good too!

 

The Saturn IR Alt will still be going on the new motor, so that will have to get bolted on, and then the radiator can get mounted, too.

 

The biggest hurdles to get the car driving are wiring, fuel line plumbing (for electric pump and return), re-weld the exhaust and hangers, replace driver's floor board.

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build a heat shield for the brake master STAY AWAY from header wrap its no good causes metal fatigue and makes it ultra brittle and I have seen the tubes actually collapse because of it and in a very short time...just my .02

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