datsunfreak Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 interesting this usa spec was exported to dubai At least 20+ of the Datsuns in my area have gone there in the last 3-4 years. Could just be a US car that was bought here recently and shipped over? Quote Link to comment
Burabuda Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 gouger alert Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 https://www.amazon.com/F1R-White-Offset-Partnumber-F05158W0/dp/B018PV4114/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1468304796&sr=8-38&keywords=4x4.5+rims will these fit on my 710? id rather ask then buy them and waste my time Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 They will stick out at least a couple inches past your fenders .... and the fronts might even need spacers, along with flared fenders and stretched tires ..... don't waste your time Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 https://www.amazon.com/F1R-White-Offset-Partnumber-F05158W0/dp/B018PV4114/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1468304796&sr=8-38&keywords=4x4.5+rims will these fit on my 710? id rather ask then buy them and waste my time 280ZX struts and camber plates in the front Rolled and pulled lips in the rear 185/55-15 tires They won't "fit" but at least the tread will be inside the fender, and it won't rub. Much. B) If this is your look, tya... Quote Link to comment
Kathos Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 280ZX struts and camber plates in the front Rolled and pulled lips in the rear 185/55-15 tires They won't "fit" but at least the tread will be inside the fender, and it won't rub. Much. B) If this is your look, tya... Does anyone make camber plates for 710 swapped 280zx struts? From my understanding, the 710 springs are too big for camber plates to have any benefit. Im looking at buying GC coilovers for my 280zx struts and t3 camber plates, but $500 later, please tell me if I can do it another way. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 any camber plate that fits a 510 will fit a 710 ..... but they need to fit on the front shocks you have (not all are the same size) Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 the 710 springs are too big for camber plates to have any benefit. Correct. Im looking at buying GC coilovers for my 280zx struts and t3 camber plates, but $500 later, please tell me if I can do it another way. You can shove a few bucks off that, but not a ton. Putting it together yourself with threaded collars and 2.5" springs could be done for $350ish. You could use 280Z springs (much smaller diameter) and bits to make the camber plates work (done that too). But there's something to be said for getting it all in one go, so... Or just don't go so aggro on the wheel fit... ^_^ Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 so four days after a rebuild the 710 spun a connecting rod bearing and wrecked everything, i guess it was my fault i didn't know that the sprocket on the oil pump driveshaft could move. however i was lucky enough to find a 620 as backup. i think ima put the 620 engine in the 710 thoughts? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 The oil pump spindle also turns the distributor so yes it moves and is directly driven by the crankshaft. If the sprocket was not turning the engine would not start and run. Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 no no no no no no you misunderstand the spindle moved downward on the shaft it still turned the distributor but failed to touch the oil pump. or did but not enough to move oil... it was just a fucked up situation Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 That seems pretty unlikely. The spindle is sandwiched between oil pump and distributor. The spindle can't move upward only downward. It can't turn one and not the other. Did you fill the oil pump with oil or grease before installing it? This would help prime the pump and draw oil up the pick up tube from the oil pan. Didn't you notice the lack of oil pressure??? Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 yes i did fill the oil pump with oil before installing it, and we did have oil pressure while we monitored it. we ran the car for about twenty minutes after the rebuild and everything sounded good, then we took a break from watching it and played around outside, after a bit we heard some clacking...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gYWqyIqdeg so i took everything apart again and didn't see anything so i put it back together and it did the same thing, took it apart again and let it sit for a few days then my brother got curious put the shaft in the pump and realized it didn't seat all the way in.. so we stuck it is a vise and smacked it with a hammer and it didnt move at all so we hit it with a deadblow hammer and moved it far enough to seat properly in the pump but it was too late. in hinds sight i probably should have just rebuilt it again right then and there. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 Yes, but as he said, if that thing moved down, it also stops spinning the distributor. You can not spin the distributor and simultaneously not spin the oil pump. Once that gear moves off it's intended spot, both stop spinning. The shaft itself stops spinning. There has to be a problem elsewhere... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 The spindle can't sit too far up inside for the oil pump to not engage it. There is just enough room between the installed distributor and oil pump for the drive spindle to fit between. That 'gear' is an interference fit to the spindle shaft. Only way to move it is to heat with a torch and press it off, I know, I did this once. Hammering the spindle into the oil pump is probably not a bright idea. If it didn't fit there was probably a good reason. Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 we didnt hammer it into the pump we hit the top of the bar to push the spindle up, i understand that its "not possible" but that is what happend after we moved the gear it worked fine, but the damage was done. now back to my original question. put the 620 engine in the car or try to fix the rusted frame? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 Seems like any easy question. Do you want to drive a truck or a car? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 If the spindle was hammered upward it would be even further from the oil pump. Hammering is no way to fix an engine. Yes, your statements make no sense at all. If the rod bearing spun it probably was not installed properly or not torqued. They don't spin without making one hell of a noise first. You would have heard it knocking. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 saw this pic on facebook .... drool: 8 Quote Link to comment
Sastis Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 photo and image hosting Quote Link to comment
710 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Hello fellow 710'ers. "710" here, a relic from the analog era (meaning I'm older than my 1974 710). Hence, my difficulties navigating the electronic world of Ratsun to find one little part you may have seen me murmur about over the lat 2 years as I have sought to post, and answer posts in the classified (and when that didn't work emailing members with "710" somewhere in their member ID) FOR ONE PIECE OF REAR WINDOW CORNER TRIM for my 1974 710 sedan SO I CAN GET ON WITH COMPLETING MY BODYWORK/PAINTING of the vehicle. Can I get some love here? Even if you don't have any leads on parts? And by the way, anybody replaced their original Hitachi carb with a Weber? I've heard that's a good thing to do on these leaky carbs, and I'm am little sick of only 18-20 mpg. Weber site lists 3 options- the $230, $290 and $300 kits. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 A good rebuild kit is about $30 and a new Weber about 10X that. The stock carb is the best over all for everything. My L20B 710 wagon gets 29.9 US on trips. Lots of things are corrrected by just adjustments. And don't discount a good tune up for better mileage. Quote Link to comment
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