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About Kathos

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    Advanced Member

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    710 Datsun
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    Cars of all kinds. Classic/imports/muscle/rats/luxury/super etc

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  1. Kathos

    L20b Starter disengaging

    I tried starting the car with the two pump method and its started right away every time since. I'm not saying the issue is gone, but it's not a problem when the car starts up correctly. Even this morning when it was below freezing. If it starts giving me issues again, Ill keep a starter rebuild and a hot start relay in my back pocket. Thanks for the help fellas
  2. Kathos

    L20b Starter disengaging

    Crash, I think you are correct in that my terminology was wrong. And I am going to try the two pump method Mike explained to see if I am simply false starting it. Being that my starter solenoid voltage input is above 10v, I would think that's enough. I have researched the hotstart method and I'm planning on going that route if the input voltage becomes an issue. From what I read, starters have a mechanical safety mechanism that prevents them from staying engaged when the engine starts spinning the flywheel faster than the starter can. This is to protect the starter. https://www.howacarworks.com/basics/how-the-starting-system-works I'll report back after I give Mikes methods a shot
  3. Kathos

    L20b Starter disengaging

    Hi all, I'm a little confused what the problem might be so I'm hoping for some help. I finished my 5speed swap recently and put my automatic starter back on. I'm not going to claim this starter is perfect but I did bench test it and it seemed to operate strong (solenoid and motor). When I go to start the car, the solenoid engages, the motor spins the flywheel, the engine cranks 1 or 2 times, then the solenoid disengages but the starter motor spins until I turn release the key off crank. I read on a different forum that if the flywheel taps the back of the starter gear teeth, the bendix is designed to disengage. Does my starter think my engine is starting prior to actually starting? I do pump the gas pedal when cranking if that matters. I tested my battery while cranking it was around 11-11.5v. My starter solenoid read around 10.5v-10v
  4. Kathos

    710's unite!!!!!!!!

    Its been a long time since shes been on the road but what a beautiful time to finally get her out of the garage.
  5. Kathos

    510 Dogleg 5 spd makes noise

    I took it out for a ride yesterday. It feels great! I noticed a little bit of whining in 5th gear that may or may not be a good thing. Now that its on the ground I may double check the transmission fluid level. It pretty much ate all of the 2 quarts I threw at it when it was on stands so maybe its got a tad too much. (Ac-delco 10-4014) Overall it shifts awesome, both up and down. Clutch feels good. Now everything just needs fine tuning.
  6. Kathos

    510 Dogleg 5 spd makes noise

    So I hear the click you are talking about. In every gear except 5th and reverse. I hope that's okay
  7. Kathos

    510 Dogleg 5 spd makes noise

    Crap. Too late. Fingers crossed. What feeling am I looking for to tell yay or nay
  8. Kathos

    510 Dogleg 5 spd makes noise

    I just want to add for future researchers, since I am currently in the process, my front cover had 1 long bolt and 4 shorter. Were talking only 1/8" difference so its easy to miss if you aren't paying attention. The longer bolt goes in the top left cover hole if you refer to Shacks image. Stoffregen, can you test shifting prior to installing the transmission to tell if the rtv method worked? Can you tell if it isn't working by simply bench shifting the transmission?
  9. Kathos

    710 transmission change

    Thanks for the response Mike. So if I use the clutch assembly from the 280z, I am okay to use the release collar from the 280z? I guess I am interested in learning the logic when it is okay to use the release collar from the new transmission and when you should reuse your old one (like with the OP)
  10. Kathos

    710 transmission change

    Putting a 78 280z 5 speed into my 710 auto, is there any release collar that I can use from either of the transmissions or do I need to source a new one? From what I gathered, I should be able to use the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate from the 5 speed on my L20. Is that correct? Also, not sure if someone knows, being that the 710 auto is long, does the cross member still need to be modified? Thanks
  11. Kathos

    Coolant leak

    Easiest thing to do is just get down there with a flash light. If the driver side is damp, get a flashlight down there and see if you can see signs of where its coming from. Once you know that you can move onto the next step. On the 710, I couldnt see the valve from the driver side of the engine, it was against the firewall. I had to remove some of the ducting from the heater core, and a few bolts later I could rotate the heater core assembly and see the valve. Theres a diagram of the heatercore on the 510 somewhere around here but I can't find it.
  12. Kathos

    My sr20det Datsun 510 build saga...

    If anyone is looking for another option. I used "https://postimages.org/"It seems pretty straight forward. Can only upload one at a time but the upload speed is really quick.
  13. Kathos

    How to Install ebay L20B Aluminum Radiator (710)

    That's a good point Mike. It probably comes on before it gives the radiator a chance to do its job. From experience I can tell you that my fans don't come on while I'm actually cruising around. Usually the fans kick on a little under the 1/2 level on the temperature gauge. From the installation instructions: https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/der-16738_.pdf " For best results we recommend installing the probe as close as possible to the water inlet of the radiator." When you think about it, the radiator is getting airflow while cruising( fan on or not).. So the temperature of the radiator as a whole stays "cool". Because the probe isn't actually in the coolant, its contact is through the radiator fins, so I am sure that the heat of the radiator core also helps moderate when the fans switch on. If the thermostat doesn't fully open, it will take some time for the probe to read the increased temperature of the engine coolant. If the probe is all the way down towards the outlet of the radiator, your fans could be kicking on much later then when the engine actually reaches temperature. I tried wiring the fan so it would stay on after I shut the car off for simplicity but I found that my fan ran for much longer than just a minute. Probably because the radiator is so large and also possibly because the probe is so close to the inlet of the radiator. I started worrying about running the battery dead so I modified it to run only when the car was on. So far it hasn't posed a problem but I am sure it works either way.
  14. So I wanted to post a How to / Information thread on installing one of those thick 3core ebay radiators that "fit" our Datsuns. I was suffering from overheating issues on my 710 from a clogged radiator so I was in the market for an "upgrade". I paid $180 for the radiator and a 16" electric fan kit. My hope was that it would fit the standard holes in the body and all I would need to do was hook up the radiator hoses and wire the fan but it turned out to be a much bigger project. In all I purchased L20B radiator (ebay) (16" fan didnt work for me) 12" Diameter High Performance fan (amazon) Small Automatic transmission cooler (ebay) Derale 16738 Single Stage Thermostat push-in probe (ebay) Some wiring and electrical tidbits Hardware for mounting the radiator After removing the stock radiator, this is what you are left with. To remove the radiator, take off the front grill and the nuts that hold the radiator in place are easily accessible. If you have an automatic, you need to pull the transmission cooler lines off from the bottom of the radiator. If you plan on wiring an electric fan (you need to for this radiator) the fan clutch shown has to be removed but it cannot be unbolted from the water pump. To do remove the fan clutch, you need to unbolt the water pump from the engine and cut the shaft right between the clutch and the belt pulley. I don't have pictures on this process but you will see what it looks like finished in later photos. With the fan clutch removed, the water pump can be reinstalled. Carefully sit the radiator in place. When I did it, it became clear that it wasn't a simple "bolt-on". The radiator did not have the proper width to match the bolt spacing. Also it was really thick so fitting it without damaging the fins was difficult. I also found it was really difficult to position it without hitting the alternator pulley. Due to the lower radiator outlet and the alternator pulley, you want the radiator sitting as far over to the passenger side as possible. On the passenger side, the radiator should practically be able to bolt up to the standard holes. I think I had to add a 5/16" hole to the upper aluminum bracket on the radiator to allow better fitment. On the drivers side, I made an adapter plate out of 1/8" aluminum that would allow me to bolt the radiator up to the body on the drivers side. The plate sandwiches the body of the radiator opening between the plate and the radiator bracket. Make sure that any place the radiator may rub the metal body of your car, you add some type of padding to prevent future problems. I used a piece of thick rubber vacuum line that i sliced into to fit around the body nice and snug. You can see it right behind the lower bolt head. At this point, the radiator should be mounted. You can see what the water pump pulley looks like all cleaned up with the clutch removed. Note the relay installed on the passenger side of the radiator and the thermostat probe directly under the upper radiator hose. You want the probe right under the upper radiator hose so you can have the quickest cooling response when your engine reaches temperature. The relay was mounted on one of the brackets provided with the radiator. With the fan clutch removed, I still didn't have enough much room for my electric fan. As I mentioned before, the lower radiator hose is dangerously close to the alternator pulley. I had to buy a fresh alternator belt that was unstretched so that I could take advantage of any adjustability left in the alternator bracket. To fit the electric fan, I had to install it in front of the radiator. The fan needs to have the capability to be wired as a pusher in this configuration. Using the 16" fan provided with the radiator, I was able to make it fit, but I was unhappy with how it sealed against the radiator. The 16" fan was just big enough that it could be persuaded to fit in the stock radiator opening but it caused the 3 and 9 oclock position of the fan to lift off of the radiator which made it inefficient. The other thing I noticed was that the blades had a good 1/2" clearance around the entire circumference of the fan shroud. Because the radiator is so thick, when I tested the fan, I could feel a lot of air being pushed through these openings and not actually making its way through the radiator. I ended up finding a 12" fan with large fins on amazon. Even though it was smaller, it was able to force much more air through the radiator because it sealed better. Here is the 12" fan. The black heat exchanger you see in the top right corner is my automatic transmission cooler. Wiring the fan is pretty straight forward. I bought a "Derale 16738 Single Stage Thermostat push-in probe" on ebay. As I mentioned before, the probe should be installed as close to the radiator inlet as possible. This will give it the quickest response based on your engines heat. Make sure where ever you put it, it does not push into the radiator fan or you'll have some trouble. I installed the relay on the radiator close to the battery to try to keep wiring clean and simple. In the photo below, wiring is as follows Black(on relay): ground Red: Straight to battery Yellow:Thermostat probe Green: On/Off Switch (if you want to be able to bypass the thermostat probe) or you can delete it. Orange through Inline fuse (provided with relay) to black wire on electric fan( because we are wiring it as a pusher) Blue/Red (power) on electric fan gets wired to ground Brown (what ever color you choose) will be your power signal to your thermostat probe. I spliced into the blue/red wire at the wiper motor.This allows the fan to run only when the car is on and the thermostat reads above its set temperature, but it will not run while you are trying to crank the engine over even if the radiator is hot. The other side of the brown wire goes to the thermostat probe. Here it is all back together. Everything fits as best as I could get it and it's looking nice and pretty. Usually when driving, the electric fan doesn't turn on. The temperature gauge in the car reads about 1/4-1/2 way mark. Its about 1/4" above the lower operating range tick. As it moves up to around 1/2 way mark, the fan kicks on. Mostly this only happens when the car is idling in traffic. Then it cools back down and the fan shuts off. I wired an on/off switch in the engine bay that bypasses the thermostat using the green wire. When I turn the switch on, even without the key in the ignition, the fan runs. I figured this would be good if I pull over to the side of the road for some reason and pop the hood and want to run the fan without wasting power on anything else. If I had to buy another radiator, I'd probably go another route because of the clearance issues between the alternator and the lower radiator hose. Im pretty sure all of the ones offered on ebay are the exact same dimensions. However, if you are looking for a larger radiator to keep your beast cool, this one definitely does the job. I would say go OEM but I am a sucker for aftermarket parts and OEM might not always be available. I hope I can help a fellow member with this write-up and I apologize for any errors I may have missed. Let me know what you think.
  15. Kathos

    710 Starter Problem

    I took the car to the Vintage Grand Prix this weekend. I had trouble leaving because when I turned the key, the starter made no noise. (A single faint click). I started playing with the small spade connector on the starter solenoid and it made no difference. I loosened the terminal nut on the battery side of the solenoid (did not disconnect) nothing happened. As a began to loosen the nut on the starter side of the solenoid, I heard something snap back(key was not in ignition). I dont fully understand the mechanics of the starter but I am guessing it was the bendix disengaging, or something in the solenoid. With this information, can you guess what happened? Wiring, solenoid, starter or all? I understand how the starter and solenoid function as a unit, but I don't know whats happening internally. Thanks Edit: After I heard the noise, I tightened everything back up and had no issues starting the car

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