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About Kathos

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    Advanced Member

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    710 Datsun
  • Interests
    Cars of all kinds. Classic/imports/muscle/rats/luxury/super etc

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  1. Kathos

    710's unite!!!!!!!!

    Keep an open mind Mike. Us 710 guys gotta stick together Unrelated, this was from a few years back at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. I found it recently and I figured I'd share https://www.conceptcarz.com/z26875/datsun-710.aspx
  2. Kathos

    710's unite!!!!!!!!

    My datsun has 15 x 8 +12 back 15x 7 + 0 Front.
  3. I tried starting the car with the two pump method and its started right away every time since. I'm not saying the issue is gone, but it's not a problem when the car starts up correctly. Even this morning when it was below freezing. If it starts giving me issues again, Ill keep a starter rebuild and a hot start relay in my back pocket. Thanks for the help fellas
  4. Crash, I think you are correct in that my terminology was wrong. And I am going to try the two pump method Mike explained to see if I am simply false starting it. Being that my starter solenoid voltage input is above 10v, I would think that's enough. I have researched the hotstart method and I'm planning on going that route if the input voltage becomes an issue. From what I read, starters have a mechanical safety mechanism that prevents them from staying engaged when the engine starts spinning the flywheel faster than the starter can. This is to protect the starter. https://www.howacarworks.com/basics/how-the-starting-system-works I'll report back after I give Mikes methods a shot
  5. Hi all, I'm a little confused what the problem might be so I'm hoping for some help. I finished my 5speed swap recently and put my automatic starter back on. I'm not going to claim this starter is perfect but I did bench test it and it seemed to operate strong (solenoid and motor). When I go to start the car, the solenoid engages, the motor spins the flywheel, the engine cranks 1 or 2 times, then the solenoid disengages but the starter motor spins until I turn release the key off crank. I read on a different forum that if the flywheel taps the back of the starter gear teeth, the bendix is designed to disengage. Does my starter think my engine is starting prior to actually starting? I do pump the gas pedal when cranking if that matters. I tested my battery while cranking it was around 11-11.5v. My starter solenoid read around 10.5v-10v
  6. Kathos

    710's unite!!!!!!!!

    Its been a long time since shes been on the road but what a beautiful time to finally get her out of the garage.
  7. I took it out for a ride yesterday. It feels great! I noticed a little bit of whining in 5th gear that may or may not be a good thing. Now that its on the ground I may double check the transmission fluid level. It pretty much ate all of the 2 quarts I threw at it when it was on stands so maybe its got a tad too much. (Ac-delco 10-4014) Overall it shifts awesome, both up and down. Clutch feels good. Now everything just needs fine tuning.
  8. So I hear the click you are talking about. In every gear except 5th and reverse. I hope that's okay
  9. Crap. Too late. Fingers crossed. What feeling am I looking for to tell yay or nay
  10. I just want to add for future researchers, since I am currently in the process, my front cover had 1 long bolt and 4 shorter. Were talking only 1/8" difference so its easy to miss if you aren't paying attention. The longer bolt goes in the top left cover hole if you refer to Shacks image. Stoffregen, can you test shifting prior to installing the transmission to tell if the rtv method worked? Can you tell if it isn't working by simply bench shifting the transmission?
  11. Thanks for the response Mike. So if I use the clutch assembly from the 280z, I am okay to use the release collar from the 280z? I guess I am interested in learning the logic when it is okay to use the release collar from the new transmission and when you should reuse your old one (like with the OP)
  12. Putting a 78 280z 5 speed into my 710 auto, is there any release collar that I can use from either of the transmissions or do I need to source a new one? From what I gathered, I should be able to use the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate from the 5 speed on my L20. Is that correct? Also, not sure if someone knows, being that the 710 auto is long, does the cross member still need to be modified? Thanks
  13. Easiest thing to do is just get down there with a flash light. If the driver side is damp, get a flashlight down there and see if you can see signs of where its coming from. Once you know that you can move onto the next step. On the 710, I couldnt see the valve from the driver side of the engine, it was against the firewall. I had to remove some of the ducting from the heater core, and a few bolts later I could rotate the heater core assembly and see the valve. Theres a diagram of the heatercore on the 510 somewhere around here but I can't find it.
  14. If anyone is looking for another option. I used "https://postimages.org/"It seems pretty straight forward. Can only upload one at a time but the upload speed is really quick.
  15. That's a good point Mike. It probably comes on before it gives the radiator a chance to do its job. From experience I can tell you that my fans don't come on while I'm actually cruising around. Usually the fans kick on a little under the 1/2 level on the temperature gauge. From the installation instructions: https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/der-16738_.pdf " For best results we recommend installing the probe as close as possible to the water inlet of the radiator." When you think about it, the radiator is getting airflow while cruising( fan on or not).. So the temperature of the radiator as a whole stays "cool". Because the probe isn't actually in the coolant, its contact is through the radiator fins, so I am sure that the heat of the radiator core also helps moderate when the fans switch on. If the thermostat doesn't fully open, it will take some time for the probe to read the increased temperature of the engine coolant. If the probe is all the way down towards the outlet of the radiator, your fans could be kicking on much later then when the engine actually reaches temperature. I tried wiring the fan so it would stay on after I shut the car off for simplicity but I found that my fan ran for much longer than just a minute. Probably because the radiator is so large and also possibly because the probe is so close to the inlet of the radiator. I started worrying about running the battery dead so I modified it to run only when the car was on. So far it hasn't posed a problem but I am sure it works either way.
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