yenpit Posted March 9, 2023 Report Share Posted March 9, 2023 On 3/4/2023 at 3:16 PM, Satisaii said: No title in California may be tricky. You might look into a service for that. I bought mine from Arizona without a title, got it titled in Utah (where no shits are given), and then brought it into California. But then I have family in Utah. I had to have the local Utah PD do a VIN verification for theft and then a trip to the local DMV for the paperwork. I had a new title in the mail a couple of weeks later. This was easier than trying to get a new title issued in CA (from what I remember.) Our title service here in Denver had "the family" of the deceased apply for a copy for a 240Z with DMV & then they simply signed his name. Technically HE needed to sign it, but if the family was willing & nobody contested it, it's kinda like me signing a company check when my boss is not here..........HE does not care, so it is "legal". Such a cool project & good luck!! 😎 Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2023 So I took my "maiden voyage" the other day and as with most Datsun adventures, I got a good walk out of it LOL. The truck was running amazing, but when I got about 1.5 miles away from home it suddenly stalled. After messing with it for a few minutes I could tell it wasn't going to re-start, so I walked home and got my truck and trailer. When I purchased the truck, the seller told me that he had a guy "do some work" on the truck, but he was unclear exactly what had been done. When I initially drained the fuel tank the gas was very dark (as old gas usually is) but it left no residue in the filter on my funnel. I replaced it with new fuel and before re-hooking up the fuel lines to the freshly cleaned carbs I had clear gas coming out the lines when cranking the engine. This made me wrongly assume that the gas tank had been cleaned out at some point. During my short test drive the sloshing in the tank turned the gas to soup and plugged up everything. I also missed the fact that there was no fuel filter before the fuel pump. Duh.... The tank has now been boiled out, lines blown out, filter added and carbs cleaned once again. Will repeat the test drive if/when it ever quits raining here in "sunny San Diego" I had a 240Z fuel sending unit in stock, so I bent the rod to match the 620 configuration. Should work fine. 2 Quote Link to comment
Ooph! Posted March 15, 2023 Report Share Posted March 15, 2023 That's looking pretty crusty have you looked inside the tank to see if its the same? You might consider dropping and cleaning it. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 15, 2023 Report Share Posted March 15, 2023 Yuck! Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 15, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2023 Yes, I had the tank chemically treated and boiled out. Good for another 50-years! 1 Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 I have been putting off getting this truck registered, having no paperwork and fearing the worst. Now that it's drivable it was time however. I trailered it to AAA today. Super nice lady helped me (although she made me unload it because she "is not allowed to climb on trailers to look a vin plates"). As predicted above, I did have to then take it and get it weighed. It was a bit scary squeezing in between all of the big moving trucks! But 2.5 hrs later and I HAVE PLATES! The AAA lady even looked for a plate with the numbers 620 in it for me, but no luck LOL Pinstriping touch-up and a new bed cover and she will be ready for the Solvang show next month. 6 Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 Glad to hear you got it registered. If you have not been to Solvang, you will enjoy it. I made it last year but won't be able to this year. Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 (edited) I have been to Solvang 3-4 times, but I like to show up with something new each time! My wife will be driving up our LS swapped 240Z Edited March 24, 2023 by craZee grammer 5 Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted March 26, 2023 Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 On 3/24/2023 at 1:24 PM, craZee said: I have been putting off getting this truck registered, having no paperwork and fearing the worst. Now that it's drivable it was time however. I trailered it to AAA today. Super nice lady helped me (although she made me unload it because she "is not allowed to climb on trailers to look a vin plates"). As predicted above, I did have to then take it and get it weighed. It was a bit scary squeezing in between all of the big moving trucks! But 2.5 hrs later and I HAVE PLATES! The AAA lady even looked for a plate with the numbers 620 in it for me, but no luck LOL Pinstriping touch-up and a new bed cover and she will be ready for the Solvang show next month. Wow success on the plates & WOW that 620 looks great!! 😎 1 Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 One step forward and two steps back LOL There is an annoying exhaust leak on the header so I removed my carburetors for the third (or maybe fourth) time to get at the exhaust gasket. The area of the leak is obvious. The header is sadly all welded in place, so it's difficult to get a straight edge across the flange of it or the head for that matter. I am hoping a new gasket and some super high temp silicone will seal it up. While I had the carbs off, I noticed that the motor mounts appear to be original as well. Might as well replace those while I have better access. This thing is turning into a money pit. Wow, what a surprise! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 The 4 bottom studs use a cone shaped washer to bridge across and hold both the intake and the exhaust manifold, which is fine because the flanges are the same thickness. The flange on the header is likely not 1/2" thick! So the washer has trouble clamping the thinner flange. You could notch the intake bolt holes and thin them down to match. Or weld spacers on the header flange. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 (edited) the Felpro as the one you bought and the other one do blow out the bottom over time if the bolts get loose. The Nissan SSS one is the best if you can find then as they metal on both sides. Somebody on here got more stout ones but long as it tight youll be fine for a while. Headers the flange points might not be perfect . But mine has gone out 2 times in 20yrs as I have sidedrafts. and swapped the intake so many times form stock to sidedrafts I assume the threads are maybe getting loose then the bolt works it way out. Edited March 28, 2023 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 There is the brand remflex.... It's designed for headers to help seal better... I have used 2 so far without any issue.. they definitely dont like to be reused so keep that in mind.... Fyi some dont like the thickness or how it compresses but again I am using it without any issue... https://www.ebay.com/itm/304600111857?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0ExN2wehR32&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=2B08jY5FRkS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY 1 Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 5 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: There is the brand remflex.... It's designed for headers to help seal better... I have used 2 so far without any issue.. they definitely dont like to be reused so keep that in mind.... Fyi some dont like the thickness or how it compresses but again I am using it without any issue... https://www.ebay.com/itm/304600111857?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0ExN2wehR32&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=2B08jY5FRkS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY We use Remflex on all of our race 240Z's, never have issues! What I learned years ago, was if the flange surface to head surface is FLAT/SMOOTH, you can use a standard gasket. If the flange to head surface has a weld ridge around each port, you need to use a softer thicker "header gasket", made from a softer header gasket material, so that ridge presses in to the softer thicker material & seals. The Remflex is a soft thick gasket material & the best I have ever seen/used! Not cheap, but you shouldn't have any issues. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2023 Thanks for all the advice! Datzenmike was spot on with the problem being the thickness of the header flange compared to the intake manifold flange thickness. No way could much pressure have been on the header flange. First picture shows the header flange thickness with calipers. Both are pretty equal now, so I anticipate good results! 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 29, 2023 Report Share Posted March 29, 2023 soem headers came with special washers for the lower bolts when supplied with the headers. Means you go cheap headers Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 I wish I would have gotten to you before you ground the manifold. Grinding that area weakens the manifold. Step washers were common as was strips of steel welded to the header flange (where the washers would hit). You can make your own step washers by hole sawing a chunk of steel, then stepping the chunk in a mill (or with a grinder). 1 Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I wish I would have gotten to you before you ground the manifold. Grinding that area weakens the manifold. Step washers were common as was strips of steel welded to the header flange (where the washers would hit). You can make your own step washers by hole sawing a chunk of steel, then stepping the chunk in a mill (or with a grinder). Agree! You can easily make a stepped washer to compensate for the thinner exhaust manifold/header flange OR Troy Ermish sells some. Even if you buy something from Troy, you would still likely need to "adjust" the actual thickness to match whatever exhaust manifold/header you have. CraZee if you want to go back, there should be a casting # on the top of the rear intake runner ie W58 if it is a late L20B. The L16 L18 manifold is different. 1 Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 (edited) So I'm trying to be proactive and replace the motor mounts BEFORE they break but it is proving not to be easy! The first picture is what just came off of the truck. The second picture is what Rock Auto shipped me and what others are showing as the right part as well. What am I missing here? There are no studs on the back of the existing one nor any side flanges on the new one. Edited March 30, 2023 by craZee more info 1 Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 5 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I wish I would have gotten to you before you ground the manifold. Grinding that area weakens the manifold. Step washers were common as was strips of steel welded to the header flange (where the washers would hit). You can make your own step washers by hole sawing a chunk of steel, then stepping the chunk in a mill (or with a grinder). Thanks for the concern. I'm pretty sure it will not be an issue. The bolts at the top carry the minimal weight that exists, so the bottom flange really just seals it. Step washers would indeed be the preferred method. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 45 minutes ago, craZee said: So I'm trying to be proactive and replace the motor mounts BEFORE they break but it is proving not to be easy! The first picture is what just came off of the truck. The second picture is what Rock Auto shipped me and what others are showing as the right part as well. What am I missing here? There are no studs on the back of the existing one nor any side flanges on the new one. I just ordered a set of motor mounts for a 73 from rock auto. Got exactly what I was supposed to. I would suggest contacting customer service and making sure you ordered the right thing. Should only be the one stud poking through on either side 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 I'm pointing at the drivers side one here 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 1 hour ago, craZee said: So I'm trying to be proactive and replace the motor mounts BEFORE they break but it is proving not to be easy! The first picture is what just came off of the truck. The second picture is what Rock Auto shipped me and what others are showing as the right part as well. What am I missing here? There are no studs on the back of the existing one nor any side flanges on the new one. The top picture is for the L motor the bottom is probably for the J series motor.... Rockauto likes to group the 520/521 and the 620 parts together.... Sorry to say but you really need to check dimensions and the pictures... Sometimes it's hard to do if you have to remove something to see it... Quote Link to comment
craZee Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 One of the questions on the return the part questionnaire is " Did you order this part for a 1973 Datsun 620 pick-up"? Not sure where the breakdown is here..... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 6 minutes ago, craZee said: One of the questions on the return the part questionnaire is " Did you order this part for a 1973 Datsun 620 pick-up"? Not sure where the breakdown is here..... I was just thinking I believe the 620 had the j15 in other countries so that kind of makes sense why its listed for the 620 also.... Just say it's for the wrong motor.... 1 Quote Link to comment
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