0R4NGE

[shlammed]

 

Keeping things simple, it was decided to stay L series... here are some photos for basic things I've got/done recently...

 

L20b engine with accessories removed.

Carb manifolds were rough cast, I had to surface the manifolds and drill the mounting holes.  Just rough surfaced for now, will weld the injector bungs and intake manifold plenum and surface for real and make the shared bolt with the exhaust the proper depth.

 

 

Decided in making my plenum that I will remove the carb flange.  Used a boring head on my sloppy mill/drill to set a 50mm ID at the plenum side.  Will port the intake manifold once I get the head flange set to the proper diameter to get a solid taper.

Going to use a 1/2" thick flange with 50mm ID hole and step the flange at the lip to gently press fit onto the carb runners before welding.  Will use a large radius wood working bit to get a good plenum bottom and hope that it makes it through doing this job lol.

 

 

Will draw up my plenum base drawn and cut once I get the other side prepped like this

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I know it's early on, but I would definitely use studs to hold the manifolds on. The threaded holes in the cylinder head are notorious for stripping out. Studs help distribute that load.

[shlammed]

Thanks!

 

have you seen upgraded size fasteners as well?

mostly thinking about that for the shared fasteners between intake/exhaust flanges. 
 

I’m not sure there is enough meat left in the head to do it but it could be a good idea for the vibration and weight of the turbo system. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Good double ended studs (not fully threaded studs) are strong enough to handle that weight.

[Crashtd420]

3 hours ago, shlammed said:

Thanks!

 

have you seen upgraded size fasteners as well?

mostly thinking about that for the shared fasteners between intake/exhaust flanges. 
 

I’m not sure there is enough meat left in the head to do it but it could be a good idea for the vibration and weight of the turbo system. 

The shared fasteners have a special washer ... they have a dish shape to them...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314144526511?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=NmhgoufsRU-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=2B08jY5FRkS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[shlammed]

The dome washer is for misalignment?

[Crashtd420]

12 hours ago, shlammed said:

The dome washer is for misalignment?

Yes, for clamping uneven surfaces...

Plus the bottom is concave and they are pretty thick.....

 

 

Edited May 17, 2023 by Crashtd420

[shlammed]

On 5/16/2023 at 11:01 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I know it's early on, but I would definitely use studs to hold the manifolds on. The threaded holes in the cylinder head are notorious for stripping out. Studs help distribute that load.

Any suggestions that arent $200?

ARP 400-8033 ARP Stainless Steel Accessory Studs | Summit Racing

 

Still considering upgrading the common fasteners to M10 and drilling the yoke washer...

 

I have the W58 exhaust flange dwg ready for laser for my turbo manifold... going to make that fairly thick to prevent warping and I will mill out the common fastener spot to match the intake manifold once both manifolds are built and are surfaced.

 

I also have my IGN1a coil bracket cad drawing done, along with my plenum base, fuel pump block off, distributor block off and trigger wheel (to be scaled once I throw the pulley in the lathe to set rough dimensions)...  Just debating how many different materials and thicknesses I want...

 

Turbo manifold flange -1/2" 304 SS

Plenum base - 1/2" 6061 aluminum

Fuel pump and distributor blockoff and coil bracket - 1/4" 6061 aluminum

36-1 crank pulley trigger wheel- 1/8" mild steel

 

Anything else I should have cut?  LOL

 

Edited May 17, 2023 by shlammed

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You don't need stainless. As a matter of fact, I use stainless only for decorative purposes. Stainless is not that strong, it's brittle and it galls threads easily.

 

Use some plain old Dorman studs - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/studs/brand/dorman/base-thread-size/m8-x-1-25?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=studs&kr=studs#

 

10mm is overkill and completely unnecessary.

[iceman510]

Agreed.  Stainless is not the answer for fasteners everyone always thinks it is.

 

8mm should be fine as mentioned.  I upgraded to 10mm studs on the end mounts for my Mitsu 4G63 Turbo car because  the heat of the turbo at 15+ lbs. boost would get the manifold so hot it glowed and would expand and pull the end studs.  That won't happen on your Datsun.

[shlammed]

Thanks for the feedback on the fasteners.   I will probably get something direct from nissan... corrosion resistance is usually quite good from OEM's.

 

 

Big long weekend here!

 

Managed to get the L20 pretty clean, get the intakes roughly fitted at the plenum side to accept a baseplate.  Once the baseplate is on and welded and injectors in place I will port match and taper the runners.  My dad is pretty well equipped for woodwork so I had him make a 30 degree drilling jig that I can bolt my intakes to for injector placement.  Im going to place the injectors pretty far upstream of the head to do as much cooling as possible of the charge temps because its not a crossflow engine at the cost of idle inefficiency. 

 

 

Went to the cottage and had some time to prep the car for things to come.   

-Manual pedal set painted and installed.  I do need to find the bolt still for the clutch pedal. 

-Pulled the engine bay wiring to clean up for things I wont need and to integrate into the EFI harness.

-Started to drop the rear subframe to clean it all up and upsize the opening for a turbo sized exhaust.

-Removed all of the automatic trans linkages and bits

-took out the dummy light panel and installed a 90mm tach (to be reinstalled in car once I figure out wiring)

-total machine polish to get it looking respectable in its current state.   I forgot my key at home so the whole front end still needs to be reinstalled.

 

 

Pics...

 

A friend helping with some of the dash stuff...

 

 

 

I was reading online that this is a brake failure sensor of some sort?  Is this also a proportioning valve?

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It is a proportioning valve. The safety aspect of the valve is a floating pin that blocks off one side if there is a total pressure loss on that side of the valve.

 

I usually ditch them in favor of a Wilwood adjustable prop valve. Note that the valve pictured below has two thread options. 1/8 NPT or 10x1.0 bubble flare. I hate both NPT and bubble flare, but I do use the metric one with bubble flares. No issues, I just hate bubble flares in brake lines.

 

[shlammed]

Do you normally remove the stock proportioning valve and sensor entirely, rerun the line from the T to the master and then put that brake proportioning valve along just the rear line?

 

 

Just got back from my vacation in Spokane/Seattle.  Had a chance in my last moments to rush around and get a few parts for the build while i was out there.  I now have an older version JBC crossmember and a front sump pan.    Im going to see if I can toss the subframe in with the stock steering for now while i source all the parts needed for that rack conversion since I have so much on the go with the engine...but Im glad to have the subframe since they are now NLA.

[thisismatt]

It's not a proportioning valve on the 510...

[shlammed]

either way, i will be using drums on the back and s13 stuff up front... i presume I will need a proportioning valve... i will try it as is i suppose and see how it goes...

 

the front might still lock up before the rear anyways and not need it LOL

[Icehouse]

On 5/8/2023 at 7:53 AM, shlammed said:

 

Determined my best route for cam and crank...

 

 

 

Try and join some z facebook groups and see if anyone has a dizzy form a 280zx T then swap in the crank trigger from a 90 eclipse.  The turbo z uses an optical sensor.   gotta be the same size all Nissan always uses?  maybe some has done it.  

[datzenmike]

I agree it's not a proportioning valve on the 510. The front rear bias is designed in by selecting the proper rear wheel cylinders size.

 

It's a brake pressure warning switch. As long as both circuits have near equal pressure the switch stays neutral. If there is a leak on one and pressure low or lost the switch activates.

 

 

 I don't see a need for a proportioning valve unless maybe if the master is changed. But if you do, plumb it in, in the engine compartment where you can't get at it while driving or you'll be fiddling with it all the time like a remote control mirror. Set it and forget it.

 

My 620 had about 16" of lift and the weight transfer forward when braking was incredible. The rear brakes would lock up from loss of weight and traction. When the rears lock the truck tries to 'come around' on you, scary on straight ahead stops but severe over steer if on a curve. The Willwood was adjusted to reduce the rears by 60% and then you could pile on the binders with confidence. I kept adjusting till fronts and rears would lock up at the same time when emergency stopping.

[shlammed]

Mike are there options for rear drum brake type wheel cylinder sizes on a 510?

 

I would like to get an easy disc setup some day once I need it but until then drums should be fine. I may do some lapping days and auto x but it’s mostly a street car. 

[shlammed]

Front sump L20b...

What to do about a dipstick?

[datzenmike]

I would run what ever the 510 cylinder size was. If you go larger the rear wheels may lock before the fronts, which must be avoided.

 

All if not most car L20Bs are front sump. The dipstick location still reaches down into the deepest part of the pan.

[shlammed]

27 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I would run what ever the 510 cylinder size was. If you go larger the rear wheels may lock before the fronts, which must be avoided.

 

All if not most car L20Bs are front sump. The dipstick location still reaches down into the deepest part of the pan.

 

the l20 I have came out of a truck but the pan is *heavily modified* from a car. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 6/6/2023 at 11:33 AM, thisismatt said:

It's not a proportioning valve on the 510...

Oh, just a safety valve then. My bad.

[shlammed]

Not a whole lot of updates but some...

 

Fitted the injector bungs and then welded them in.   They are ICT billet injector fittings welded into the carb manifolds.

 

My dad is the woodworker in the family.... I asked him to make a hardwood angle jig for me to do the metal working bits.  Made a 45 degree angle jig to bolt into my drill/mill.

 

I used a 13/16 annular cutter to set the holes and the fittings had a very nice slip fit.  Annular worked well over plunge milling because Im not well tooled for my mill (no DRO or CNC) and the annular cutter has a floating center finder to align with manual layout.

 

 

Also was able to get an L series transmission to use for a hybrid my S13KA 5 speed upgrade.  thanks @Noll

Best way to clean up the bellhousing for a coat of engine paint?  Wire wheeling takes a long time.... some kind of acid wash?  Muriatic acid?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

EZ-OFF oven cleaner will take all that grime off. I've heard about that trick forever, and finally tried it last summer. It worked well, but left the aluminum dark grey, which pissed me off because I don't like painting cast aluminum. But if you're painting it, who cares?

 

You should have seen the EZ-OFF do its work. The grease and junk literally slid off the t-case I was cleaning. It's a caustic nightmare, so be sure to use a pan to catch it all so you can throw it in the can.

 

I also use Purple Power and brass brushes to get those cases clean. It takes some elbow grease, but if you don't overdo it with the brushes, they come out looking like new castings.

 

One other method I have adpoted (can't believe I never did this before) is to soak everything in gasoline. Get a wash tub or bus tub or similar and just pour the gasoline over the parts. Walk away and come back an hour later. All the grime is either removed or very loose and will pressure wash off. Not the safest method of cleaning parts, but it gets the job done. Do it outdoors if you like health.

[datzenmike]

Eazy-Off and aluminum produces hydrogen gas. So...