0R4NGE

[shlammed]

Although I need to check the fitment (obviously) the strut should give a lot of clearance with the s13 bits and the spindles from jbc. 
 

rear yeah I don’t really know yet. 
 

I will not be flaring the car. Mini tubs maybe if needed inner fender work but not flare. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Inner tub mods are limited by the suspension.

[paradime]

My 510 is lowered, and I have T3 ZX strut coil overs on my 510. I even ground a 1/4" off the upper spring perch. I might be able to get a larger tire on the 15X7s but there's no understeer and rear only breaks loose corner under too much throttle. Otherwise, it's very well balanced. 

[shlammed]

Am I reading the internet correctly that KA24 flywheels will fit 6 bolt L series cranks and work with the starter no issue?  Im fairly certain I will still have one in my shed...

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yes, if I recall, they do bolt on. The issue is the clutch diameter, which I believe is 240mm(?)

 

I'd rather have a small clutch with less rotating mass. A "roadster" clutch is 200mm and has tons of clamping force. It was the go-to clutch for hotrodders for decades.

[shlammed]

Finding an economical light weight flywheel basically. 
my shed part I will be able to confirm it fits before I worry about a light part. I have always enjoyed lightweight flywheel on my other cars. 
 

I do have a 5.5 quartermaster twin and an unknown 7.25 twin but that’s a bit too much for this car. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yeah, I ran a dual disc Tilton clutch on a steel flywheel in a street 510 for about a week. It was super touchy and so light that starting from a stop was a pain.

 

So you need some mass, but too much isn't great. With too much, you actually start breaking shit.

[shlammed]

yeah, the lightweight L flywheels are ~$400 and the KA flywheel is $150 (11lbs chromoly).  The pressure plate and the disc would be a hair heavier but I wouldn't expect it to be much.  Then there is more clutch options too and I expect it will work well with my S13 trans (with L series bellhousing)

[datzenmike]

Truck KA flywheels are 240mm car (S13/14) are 225mm. The D21 Hardbody flywheel will take a 280zx turbo or 300zx NA/turbo 240mm clutch and pressure plate and is at the heart of the White Bunny upgrade for the S13/14. The 240mm pressure plate seems thinner than the 225mm ones. Have to weigh both some day. 

[shlammed]

sweet thanks.

 

Im not really worried about the stock weights.  The engine I have waiting has a flywheel and it will work... the S13/s14 type would be a lightened flywheel.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I would not use the 240mm clutch flywheel if you plan on revving a lot. I've seen L cranks break at the rear main bearing.

[shlammed]

Im debating building one of those wood tip-over jigs like rotisserie to clean the bottom of the car up and prevent it from rusting...


Cleaning up the bottom of the car sounds like a shitty task.... what have the rest of you used to prep for undercoating? Im looking at the 3m roloc bristle disc but not sure how durable they are and wire wheel sounds pretty aggressive. I dont need to take it down to bare metal, just knock off the loose stuff and recoat it.

A good portion of the undercoating will lift off by hand right now, exposing some factory primer.

What are you all using for recoating afterwards? Its not a race car so a gravel guard of sorts would be great and the added weight doesnt really matter...

Its something I can do with the car thats mostly labour and not a lot of $ input but I also feel like needs to be done while I mingle with engine stuff ($$)

[KELMO]

On my grey 1200 I used a wire wheel to remove whatever it was that was underneath. And yes, it totally sucked balls as I was on a creeper under the car. I did use undercoating but could not tell you what brand. It was a very long time ago.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I use a needle scaler to get the majority of the undercoating off, then followed by a large wire wheel (smaller in the corners), then scoth-brite or a 3" DA sander. The undercoating is usually tar based and will contaminate paint, so you may have to use some lacquer thinner or acetone to get it ready for paint.

 

You can buy cheap needle scalers on Amazon for like $40.

[shlammed]

Im not certain a scaler would be needed for this and how it is today.  needle scaler would be pretty heavy duty for sheet metal, no?

 

The undercoating for the majority of the car i can just wipe with my hand and it will fall off.

 

I found a 3m based undercoating that would work well, its not terribly expensive but its more than the general "rubberized" stuff you can get at standard department/hardware stores.  Its rated to go over bare, primed and painted metal so that should speed up the prep time.  Knock off the loose stuff and recoat.  its also paintable and can be used for rocker guard.

 

 

 

Is it realistic to build something like this for a 510 and have it actually work with a full interior in it?  just going to pull steering/diff/subframes from where it is today and tip it over to do the bottom.

Edited March 8, 2023 by shlammed

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Like I said, I use the needle scaler on underbody coating. If you're too aggressive, it may punch through or leave marks, but with use, the tips of the pins wear into a rounded shape and are much less likely to cause problems.

 

The undercoating I like is from SEM. I forget the name of the product, because they have three that are nearly identical, but it says "tar based" on the can. It looks and feels like original, but isn't as thick. Takes forever to dry though, so if you're putting it on in winter, let it dry overnight with heat lamps.

 

EDIT  - I just googled SEM undercoating and the "rubberized" can doesn't look right. I'll check what I have in the shop and get back to you.

Edited March 10, 2023 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[shlammed]

Has anyone tried doing some pistons from a Honda in an L4 engine?

 

It may be you need a custom rod though. 
 

acura rsx pistons are fairly inexpensive have large valve reliefs and would leave lots of meat to form to a chamber or mill flat. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I have not. But, custom pistons are cheaper than custom rods. And 99% of L motors do not need valve reliefs. Depending on the cylinder head volume, you can get 10:1 with flat top or even dished pistons. And still have plenty of P to V clearance.

[shlammed]

If I’m going with external coils and timing set is there any value in having the oil pump shaft tick?

 

im debating cutting it flat and tapping the distributor side for a bolt to hold a single tooth trigger sync wheel.

 

I see lots of references to having that at a certain position but I think it’s mainly for the distributor timing and I won’t have distributor. 

[shlammed]

To circle back the “tick” is the flat distributor drive on the oil pump shaft. 
 

The oil pump drive in this area is 1/2” and I can run an aluminum wheel up to around 1-3/8” inside the opening with a magnet bonded in.  The aem infinity seems to need a cam sync for each of its trigger options.  This would save drilling the valve cover and trying to run it directly off the cam itself. 

 

 

 

Finally got some hubs for the JBC adapters.  Super well built adapters, excited to have them.  Tossed some old s13 brakes on it to see how they will work and thats definately the move.  Not doing Z32 because of wheel clearance issues common to those calipers and these cars are light enough and slow enough we dont need a lot of brakes. lol

Edited April 29, 2023 by shlammed

[iceman510]

What does the back side of that hub/bearing look like?  Those adapters were being discussed on another forum and there was questioning of how the bearing is retained without a drive axle through it.  Many of this design type need the clamping force of the axle to hold everything together.

[shlammed]

the hubs go straight through and there would be no retention from an axle in normal use.  it wouldnt preload the bearing, it would just get tight on the splined portion of the hub.  That said, in event of a catastrophic bearing failure a stock sentra would retain the hub in place with the axle

 

The rear bearings from the same car (2008 sentra) are the same deisng but without the splines and without any provision for torquing together.

 

Edited May 1, 2023 by shlammed

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

There is a company that makes a trigger that replaces the distributor. I forget where I found it, or what I searched for, but it wasn't hard to find.

[shlammed]

thanks yeah, Im more budget than that part lol.  its easy and works but its $400+

 

a 36-1 and a single tooth wheel I make plus two sensors will be less than $100.

 

Im just going to cut off the flat from the drive to the distributor, drill and tap that end and make a ~1" aluminum wheel with a single magnet in it.   Thats just the home reference and isnt a critical position.  The 36-1 Im going to mount in place of the air pump pulley on the crank with a little crank pulley rework to make a flat surface to mount and center it on.

[shlammed]

Have acquired L20b, some double carby lower intakes and manual pedals.

 

Will weld some injector bungs into the lower intakes and make a plenum, use a miata throttle body with built in idle valve.

 

 

Determined my best route for cam and crank...

Going to drill the valve cover on the front for a threaded cam sensor, will drill and set a magnet into the cam gear for pickup.  These sensors are a bit more $ and I was trying to avoid them but it really simplifies things and will provide a steady cam signal vs tapping the oil pump drive and making a wheel...

Stock crank pulley will get lightly touched up in a lathe to mount a 36-1 wheel with an OE crank sensor from an audi/vw 

 

I will make a basic bracket for "ign1a" coils and use some GM LS style plug wires and block off the distributor opening all together.

 

Nice to have some forward momentum...

 

 

Would ratsun recommend sending it with the new L20 in generally unknown running condition or pull the head now while its on my floor for a new gasket set and inspection?