0R4NGE

[paradime]

Hard to get where you're going if you don't have a direction. Sounds solid, and I'm glad to hear you're back at it. 

[shlammed]

Ive always been at it.  Just spinning my wheels.

 

Cleaned out the fuel tank, got all the rust out from the inside.  Not sure what you guys are doing to treat and protect it.

Also is there a typical way of doing in-tank fuel system on these cars? That I would think is ideal vs inline pump.

[Crashtd420]

2 hours ago, shlammed said:

Ive always been at it.  Just spinning my wheels.

 

Cleaned out the fuel tank, got all the rust out from the inside.  Not sure what you guys are doing to treat and protect it.

Also is there a typical way of doing in-tank fuel system on these cars? That I would think is ideal vs inline pump.

I used a product called redkote seal it after modifying my filler neck...

I think it's the same stuff the radiator shop used when I had It cleaned out originally..... 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285136130522?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=upBrrpNsTu6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=2B08jY5FRkS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Edit: I was curious how clean the tank needs to be, so I gave a quick read to the description and it doesn't have to be perfect... have a read you'll see...

Edited February 10, 2023 by Crashtd420

[shlammed]

How much did you need to use?

 

it doesn’t say on the directions. 

[Crashtd420]

12 hours ago, shlammed said:

How much did you need to use?

 

it doesn’t say on the directions. 

It think I saw it somewhere... 1 quart for a 12 gallon tank... I'll look again...

[Crashtd420]

At the end it does say it...

[slowlearner]

Just had my tank repaired. Old mate repair guy tells me tank liners are a nightmare. Personally I've found them a mixed bag. 

[Crashtd420]

44 minutes ago, slowlearner said:

Just had my tank repaired. Old mate repair guy tells me tank liners are a nightmare. Personally I've found them a mixed bag. 

I would agree... 

I have seen and used some other products before and it separated from the tank... 

Prep is key and using a quality product... the redkote is a little pricey but I have had it in my tank for almost 7 years on the first coat and 2 years now after i did my tank modification with zero issues.. that's the only reason I feel confident

recommending the product....

[shlammed]

To be fair I don’t know that I NEED a liner.

a fair bit of rust chunk came out though. 
 

just use evaporust and call it a day?

[Crashtd420]

2 hours ago, shlammed said:

To be fair I don’t know that I NEED a liner.

a fair bit of rust chunk came out though. 
 

just use evaporust and call it a day?

 

That stuff looks good to remove all the rust and clean out the tank completely... 

 

i think the only benefit to using the liner is preventing the metal tank from possible rusting in the future... I'd say it's a 50/50 if you actually need it.... 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Check out how @five1oh cleaned his tank, Vinegar and baking soda (?). The results are impressive.

[shlammed]

I had the chance last night to go over my L16 cylinder head and disassemble it. All of the valves seemed to be stuck in the guide with almost like an adhesive.  I would blame the valve stem seal because it looked like black rubber on the stem of the valve once they were removed but it could be old coked up oil.  Either way, some carb cleaner on both the valve stem and the valve guide, remove the old stem seals and they all move as you would expect.  No bent valves either.  Two valves were VERY hard to get out... hammer handle wouldn't even knock it loose in the beginning.  Basically good thing I didnt hit it with the starter.

 

I also have a line on an L20b, a Z manual trans (for the bell to use with my S13 5 speed guts), manual pedal set...

 

 

I brought back some fabrication bits with me from my cottage this past weekend to get started on an intake manifold although I am more of a stainless welder...  I have some 1/8" wall 4" aluminum mandrel bent U shapes I will be using for the plenum, 1.5" schedule 40 pipe for the runners. 

 

I have scanned the 510 intake/exhaust flange gasket and need to digitize it for the intake manifold flange, I will scan the miata throttle body I have and get that digitized and i will try to picture how the system will go to make a plenum base digital and send that to laser cutting out of 1/2" aluminum plate.  The plenum base I will use a 1/2" roundover bit to make a nice transition to the runner from the flange and call it a day.  Not an ideal wedge shape runner, but it will work.

 

ECU should be here next week.  I will get to wiring that up a bit and try to detail some mystery sensors I have left over from old projects, random oil pressure and oil temp sensors that would be nice to have as inputs.

Edited February 14, 2023 by shlammed

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Keep in mind that the intake and exhaust flanges need to be the same thickness. 1/2" thick is awesome, but you'll also need 1/2" thick on the header flange too.

 

You could machine steps in the aluminum, or machine stepped washers to get around this issue.

[shlammed]

Yeah, not a problem.  I will have those made as well.

 

 

Is there any steel exhaust/intake flange gaskets or are they all the composite gasket?  Im thinking of building a turbo manifold for it now but also these types of gaskets rarely work reliably with turbo heat.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Remflex makes a gasket, but it's really thick, which I think would cause problems. All other performance gaskets are no longer being produced. Some guys cut up a 240z gasket for the pieces and scab them together to make an L4 gasket.

[datzenmike]

43 minutes ago, shlammed said:

Yeah, not a problem.  I will have those made as well.

 

 

Is there any steel exhaust/intake flange gaskets or are they all the composite gasket?  Im thinking of building a turbo manifold for it now but also these types of gaskets rarely work reliably with turbo heat.

 

 

Manifold gaskets almost never fail, however when a header is installed there is often a flange miss match see below....

 

 

45 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Keep in mind that the intake and exhaust flanges need to be the same thickness. 1/2" thick is awesome, but you'll also need 1/2" thick on the header flange too.

 

You could machine steps in the aluminum, or machine stepped washers to get around this issue.

 

This is because the bottom studs use a cone shaped washer that bridges across between intake and exhaust flanges. Header flanges are never the same 1/2" thickness as the intake and clamping is reduced. Cut your flange out of 1/2" and you're good.

 

Also get a stock gasket and mount on the head and scribe the ports in the soft aluminum. Then Dremel out to match. Do the manifolds as well to 'port match' them. The gasket holes are always larger than the cast openings.

[Crashtd420]

54 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Remflex makes a gasket, but it's really thick, which I think would cause problems. All other performance gaskets are no longer being produced. Some guys cut up a 240z gasket for the pieces and scab them together to make an L4 gasket.

I have the remflex gasket on my L16, Its actually the second one I have used since i had to take the exhaust off.. found out they are not at all reusable....

Out of the box they appear thick but once tightened the squish pretty good... plus they seal any imperfections better...

Couple years now, no issues..

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The squishing is what worries me. If too much torque is applied, it could bend or break an intake manifold, and also the weak ears of a header will bend.

[shlammed]

yeah a MLS gasket would be ideal.  Would having one made of copper be worthwhile or would it just leak... not something i have ever considered.

[paradime]

1 hour ago, shlammed said:

  I have some 1/8" wall 4" aluminum mandrel bent U shapes I will be using for the plenum, 1.5" schedule 40 pipe for the runners. 

 

I have scanned the 510 intake/exhaust flange gasket and need to digitize it for the intake manifold flange, I will scan the miata throttle body I have and get that digitized and i will try to picture how the system will go to make a plenum base digital and send that to laser cutting out of 1/2" aluminum plate.  The plenum base I will use a 1/2" roundover bit to make a nice transition to the runner from the flange and call it a day.  Not an ideal wedge shape runner, but it will work.

 

With a turbo, heat is always an issue, and I don't think a stock gasket would hold up. You could get some industrial high temperature gasket material and make your own. 

 

As I'm sure you know, with the L's in and out manis on the same side, heat transfer is also a major problem. It wouldn't solve everything, but I've used ceramic coating on my SR exhaust mani and turbo housing and helped.
 

[shlammed]

Yeah, I was wondering about that and possibly a coating that goes inside the exhaust ports.

 

I have a half roll of some of the oldschool header wrap in my buckets of things I never used if I didnt throw it out...  Other alternatives are some pressed heatsheild for between the turbo manifold and the intake.

 

This is a manifold I had built for a Miata that I would replicate in the L specific geometry to keep runner length down and because you cant really get fancy with the intake in the way.

 

Edited February 14, 2023 by shlammed

[paradime]

12 minutes ago, shlammed said:

yeah a MLS gasket would be ideal.  Would having one made of copper be worthwhile or would it just leak... not something i have ever considered.

 

Support the manifolds with a buttress off the block, silicon cold air intake, and a stainless flex connector on the down pipe  

[shlammed]

 

[shlammed]

1 minute ago, paradime said:

 

Support the manifolds with a buttress off the block, silicon cold air intake, and a stainless flex connector on the down pipe  

Yeah, I have all of that now to build into it with the manifold style as above.