0R4NGE

[paradime]

DAMN that manifold is pretty! You know what you're doing, I'll stand back and watch. 

[datzenmike]

 

 

What heat? it's (the gasket) bolted to a huge water cooled heat sink. Only the thin walled pipes get that hot.

[paradime]

16 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

What heat? it's (the gasket) bolted to a huge water cooled heat sink. Only the thin walled pipes get that hot.

Exhaust temps are much higher off a forced induction engine. Heat transfer causes the air to expand giving less oxygen in the air fuel mixture. Controling heat is imperative to making HP, and uncontrolled it can ramp up and cause heat sink. With an aluminum intake mani that becomes more of an issue.

[datzenmike]

I was thinking of the gasket. Sure turbos produce more heat and it's an assumption that the block and the flange are also that much hotter. 70% of internal combustion heat goes out the exhaust. The gasket is thermally grounded to the block and the cooling system. The pipe may glow but the flange doesn't.

[shlammed]

Not only the heat but now your holding pressure that you normally dont have in a non-turbo engine.

 

In other instances I have used the composite exhaust gaskets but they tend to blow out from heat and pressure.

It will be fine.  I will make it work.  Just seeing what people out there have done so I dont go down the path of trying to do things without a need.

 

If anything there may be value in some extra fasteners for the exhaust like the FIA heads appear to have had...

[paradime]

L16 8:1 compression has an EGT of 1200-1250 degrees. With an EGT of 300-400 degrees hotter flowing through the head I would imagine the gasket surface also gets much hotter.

[datzenmike]

Yeah you would think so but the gasket is not exposed directly to the heat but convection heat. It's sandwiched in solid metal and that is water cooled. Sure the block might get a little hotter as the heat travels through to the water jacket.

[shlammed]

We will see. Good quality hardware is important. 
otherwise it relaxes and even a little causes enough failure to kill the whole thing. 

[paradime]

Word, too much at stake, and the L16's head isn't designed for forced induction, or the weight of a turbo. Spending resources on the best quality gasket is a wise investment.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I was going to say 1300 or close to 1400 degrees.

 

Maybe a copper gasket? That would cover all the bases.

 

Or no gasket. Just good machined surfaces. Orange high temp RTV on the exhaust and Threebond 1211  on the intake.

[datzenmike]

The 210 head has too small valves and ports. Throw a U67 head on for 1.65" intakes and 1.35" exhaust valves with 7.72 compression.

[shlammed]

Ya. Sourcing L20. 
 

has w58 I’m told

[datzenmike]

W58 was used in the '78-'80 L20Bs. Has round exhaust ports but also steel liners in them. Not the best for a turbo application. They are removable with the valve out. I've done this with a hammer and chisel.

 

 

The metal liner is held away from the port by small raised bumps so the glow red hot and ignite any unburned fuel.

[shlammed]

Yep. Will be ordering a gasket set shortly and o be able to pull the head when I get it. 

[Icehouse]

14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

W58 was used in the '78-'80 L20Bs. Has round exhaust ports but also steel liners in them. Not the best for a turbo application. They are removable with the valve out. I've done this with a hammer and chisel.

 

 

The metal liner is held away from the port by small raised bumps so the glow red hot and ignite any unburned fuel.

 

 

The L20 in my blue 68 had that head.  At 6psi it was faster then a dual cam KA by a bit.  Funny how a little boost can make an engine so much better! 

[datzenmike]

The L head had very good breathing. The intake port is high with a steep angle to the valve seat with barely a bend. Intake air is only 14.7 at sea level so any obstruction is bad for breathing. Looking into my R-1 carbs I can see all the way to the intake valve seat. The exhaust port is a lot lower with a sharper bend but it's under high exhaust pressure so it's going out of there no matter what.

[shlammed]

Ratsun... looking to try and find a fuel pressure regulator that would be commonly available in a junkyard and threaded (like to the end of the fuel rail) or inexpensive to buy as a part...

 

I've found that some old Toyotas would have had a thread-in style FPR that is vacuum referenced but having some other options is good because not a lot of yards have old old cars anymore.  The new replacement for these is around the price of an aeromotive part though...

 

Im going to say I dont need adjustable base pressure but having manifold pressure reference is going to be relevant with turbo.

[datzenmike]

Junk yard FPR are all for EFI engines. A boost reference FPR for a carburetor you would have to buy.

 

Some Ford 2.3 turbo engines were carburetor but limited to 6? PSI. I had one and the carburetor was literally covered in vacuum hoses. I don't know how the fuel pressure was set or even if it was regulated. First off you would need an electric fuel pump capable of base pressure 3-4 PSI plus what ever boost you plan added.    

[shlammed]

4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Junk yard FPR are all for EFI engines. A boost reference FPR for a carburetor you would have to buy.

 

Some Ford 2.3 turbo engines were carburetor but limited to 6? PSI. I had one and the carburetor was literally covered in vacuum hoses. I don't know how the fuel pressure was set or even if it was regulated. First off you would need an electric fuel pump capable of base pressure 3-4 PSI plus what ever boost you plan added.    

There will be fuel injection on this car.  My AEM Infinity is being delivered today.

 

This would be the ideal FPR if i can find an 83-87 4 runner....

Standard Motor Products PR41 Standard Motor Fuel Pressure Regulators | Summit Racing

Edited February 16, 2023 by shlammed

[datzenmike]

Oh well, yes, yards are full of EFI engines. Electric pumps are about 40+ PSI and regulated down to around 35 ish. You will need a fuel return line.

[paradime]

1989-1998 Nissan 240SX Fuel Pressure Regulator 24471SS for twin cam ka24de. Machine to opening on the rail to match mail end.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295091154296?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1MCSMbAOFSD-GYPUN-yiV2g94&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=295091154296&targetid=1644837436203&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9032039&poi=&campaignid=16743749222&mkgroupid=138744546207&rlsatarget=pla-1644837436203&abcId=9300842&merchantid=133916913&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxbefBhDfARIsAL4XLRoslgZE53idXZV70fQYD5cHMAo1aOIlhDiEhTaUiMuhuvukOnb3fFMaAloaEALw_wcB

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 18, 2023 by paradime

[Icehouse]

What about a chevy filter with build in regulator?  Some guys dig those.  I've used the VG30 regulators and blocked off the extra port with a rivet from work.  Worked perfect on my turbo L motor.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

1 hour ago, Icehouse said:

What about a chevy filter with build in regulator?  Some guys dig those.  I've used the VG30 regulators and blocked off the extra port with a rivet from work.  Worked perfect on my turbo L motor.  

You mean the three way filter? I have had them leak at the push in fitting side. I've since deleted them from my swaps. Can't have one catch fire. It's bad business to kill your customers.

[shlammed]

 

Yeah I would prefer to have the FPR at the rail.  Only because its vac referenced and I believe there can be less pressure fluctuations.

 

I have a length of Ross Machine -6an fuel rail extrusion I will be using.  Making an SR type 2 bolt FPR would be probably the most difficult way of doing it.  Have to either make a fitting for off the end to two bolt flange or drill/tap the bottom side of the extrusion for the FPR and cap the end (with a fuel pulse dampener or something)

 

 

In other news some boujee parts came in this week.  Only other fancy things I expect for this build would be coilovers and then when I get the car sitting where it should be I can measure for wheels/tires.  Really hoping to get some substantial tire on the car without flares or major fender work (225 or maybe 245's).  Its my intent to harvest parts, sensors, etc to keep budget down, to have fun scouring for parts, etc.  Im not in a huge rush to drive this although it would be fun to get to that sooner than later.

 

 

 

 

[paradime]

Please no flare. 245s won't happen without serious hacking. I have a 2 dr that I rolled the fender seams and bowed them out another 1.25". Without flares the biggest tire I can get under the rear is 215s, and 190s in front. Rear inward the trailing arm gets in the way, and front inward it's the strut.so you're limited by the fender. That said, I'm making 378 whp, and with Michelin Cup 2s it's got ridiculous grip accelerating and cornering. On an autocross course it's been faster than AWD hot hatches because they're more than 1,000 lb heavier. There's also reciprocity failure on grip from larger street (non slick) tires. With a light 2,100 lb car there isn't enough down force to get a linear return on grip. At some point it's just useless drag on hp.