shlammed Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 Few things to report. BRZ trans fits super well. There will be no clearancing needed for the body of the transmission. Depending on final placement of the engine I may need to make some clearance for the clutch release arm. I didnt have the engine or JBC subframe with me to actually get the engine placed. Here it is jammed all the way back against the firewall, the engine would likely only barely clear the firewall here. The trans is the same height as the frame rails. I would need to make a doghouse for the clutch slave if Im able to place the engine this far back. Here it is where I expect a KA/sr swap would normally sit. Maybe a little bit of extra clearance required but maybe just a good whack with a hammer and it would work too. Finished up my tip-over jig and got it all bolted on. It worked. Next time I go up I hope to have some prep materials with me to start cleaning the bottom up. I think Im past the disassembly part now. Big feelings! 2 Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 (edited) I should have built one of those jigs to do the bottom of my car before I put the whole interior and glass back in. 😠 How are you planning to mount the starter? Looks like it originally went backward from the bell housing flange. Edited March 4 by iceman510 Quote Link to comment
shlammed Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 11 minutes ago, iceman510 said: I should have built one of those jigs to do the bottom of my car before I put the whole interior and glass back in. 😠 How are you planning to mount the starter? Looks like it originally went backward from the bell housing flange. The starter goes forward on the Honda engine. The Subaru trans starter hole gets blocked off 1 Quote Link to comment
iceman510 Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 11 minutes ago, shlammed said: The starter goes forward on the Honda engine. The Subaru trans starter hole gets blocked off Ah, I see it now. I didn't pay attention to the adapter fit to the block. Quote Link to comment
shlammed Posted March 5 Author Report Share Posted March 5 All good! This combo Im hoping should work pretty well. As an aside you mentioned before "before you put the glass and interior in" Mine has full interior and glass and I tipped it. 1 Quote Link to comment
shlammed Posted March 13 Author Report Share Posted March 13 Slow going with house renos starting up. 66mm skunk2 came in. I will be blocking off the emissions hose on top since thats for a relevant Honda and the B series MAP sensor. Cut it off, tap it for a small plug fitting. Debating if I will run coolant or not. I will probably taper from the throttle plate to 74mm to match the intake manifold. Drilled the intake manifold MAP sensor port to 12mm for a Bosch TMap sensor. Its a pressure/temp combo. Saves me from welding a separate fitting for air temp and this is 3bar if I ever need that extra 2bars of positive pressure. (plus I already had it) 3 Quote Link to comment
shlammed Posted April 19 Author Report Share Posted April 19 (edited) Not a lot to update; doing a hella renovation on the house and I get fully invested in my projects to get them all done. This one means I am down my ensuite bathroom at home so Im pushing for it. BUT. Thanks to the internet. On a semi-local car discussion board I inquired with a person who has a car that Im looking for a part for (brz clutch). This person has a forced induction FRS and have been through more than one egine. they did have an extra clutch and were able to get it out for me. Being that Im up to my ears in house stuff I threw it out there to see if anyone was making the trek from where they are to me about 2.5 hour drive away. Fortunate to say but now I have a new-to-me OEM clutch for my swap that will at least get me going if not more. Thanks to all who were involved. This is a budget build at the end of the day and things like this really keep me progressing. Edited April 19 by shlammed Quote Link to comment
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