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Everything posted by paradime

  1. Old Yeller SR 510 all tidied up
  2. When a ding in the rear fender lip forced the matter, we took the opportunity to take care of some unfinished business. We're doing the headliner in black & yellow houndstooth, blacking out the inner fender around the headlight bezels, fixed a bunch of little ware issues, and had the whole car resprayed with the same 2 part epoxy paint. Mixed it thinner this time so it laid on like glass. Now it's got that sexy rich color dipped look, the damn thing's gun'a be too finished and shiny to drive it like we stole it. Well I guess we fucked that one up a tree. Maybe it's time to start a rockabilly beater 521.
  3. Sorry cobra269, that wasn't directed at you, I thought the Amazon ad used those words. Buy a 620
  4. Unfortunately, not all standard headlight wiring systems are wired the same, so "plug and play" is false advertising. I can sympathize for what its like working with wiring, it's not my forte either. With a little patience, a 12v bulb tester ($6 at any auto parts store) some black and red 12-14 gage wire, and some crimp connecters, you can figure this out and make it work. 1st step is to confirm the LED lights work and what prongs make them work. If there isn't a diagram that shows it, you'll need to test and write down witch are the ground and positive terminals on the back of the light. If lights are both high and low beam, figure out witch prong is witch and write it down. Use a piece of black wire, strip the ends and connect one side to any bare bolt to ground on the chassis, fender, or radiator mount. strip and connect one end of the red wire to the red positive battery terminal. Don't forget this is a direct connection to the battery. For safety, only strip a small bit of the positive test wire to expose just the ends of the wire and cover it with an un-crimped connecter when not using it. Only touching one prong on the back of the LED light with the red wire, then brush the black wire to all the other terminals to see if the light comes on. if not, take note of it and switch the red wire to another prong and do the same thing. Once the light comes on, see if its the high or low beam, and write down the polarity + or - of the prongs that made it work. If none of them work, check your ground wire. Chances are there will only be one ground prong and the others are High or Low positive. Second step is to modify the 510s plug wiring to match the LED headlights. 510 headlights use Switched-Ground Wiring rather than switch positive like most other cars. That means the headlights are not permanently grounded as in newer cars. 510's headlights are permanently connected to HOT positive from the Fuse Box and the Relay switches ground on and off for High beams (all 4 lights) Low beams (2 outer lights). The relay does not switch the 12V positive either. Again it switches the GROUND wires. The relay coil is powered by the GL wire from Light Switch and switched by the BR wire. On the 510 only the outside lights are both high and low beam so the plug has three prongs while the inside lights are only high beam with two prong plugs. If your LEDS are both high and low, I would put a three prong plug on both giving you four low beam lights. Two pointing forward and 2 pointing outward for greater coverage. In Cali you don't have any safety inspection so no sweat. On the plugs the Red and White wire is the constant positive on all the lights and the solid Red wire is switched ground for the high beam. On the 2 outside lights the Red Black wire is switch ground for low beam. Once you have the correct + - polarity and high low position of the LED lights you can modify the stock plug wiring to make the LEDs work. Best of luck man.
  5. Yeah it's not super obvious but there are small differences in length and shape of the curve. You'll see bits of color on the ends of the bow. It's easy to miss if you weren't looking for it. Not having the order isn't a huge deal, just a PITA to figure out.
  6. Time Left: 2 days and 5 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a set of Headliners Bows for a PL510 2 door with the color order intact. If you got a set, I'm your PayPal. Thanks, paradime


    - US

  7. There are bits of colored paint on the bows to distinguish the order they go in. Sometimes it get's rubbed off or the right order is lost.
  8. Thanks CRASH, I got the classified to work, so please disregard.
  9. This weekend I was in SD for a military funeral out on Point Loma to remember the life of an old friend, and iconic artist, and a life long mentor of mine. A buddy and I were eating breakfast in Ocean Beach before the service and saw this 620 pull up. As always, Datsun put the moment into proper historical context. The man who passed away drove an orange 620 when I was a kid.
  10. Not saying you aren't a bunch of tough guys just having a laugh, but nobody answered the question. What's pleasurable about it? Seriously
  11. Start by doing some research so you're better prepared to have a constructive conversation. We have no idea what your skills are, what your budget is, what "sideways" means in terms of performance. The only information you've given is somewhere between an A, an LS, and trying to avoid FWD. Coolest thing I've ever seen in a 210 is a Hayabusa. 1300cc 200hp loads of potential, under 200lbs with tranny.
  12. Stupid move, but taking pleasure in seeing them get beat with a pipe,,,, what's that about?
  13. On "what did you do to your dime today" you mentioned you were experiencing a lack of brake power. Did you bleed your brakes yet to see it that fixed it? I can't imagine if they're working right that you'd need or even want a booster. I have a big brake kit on my SR 510 and have never been left wanting more. I wouldn't describe the feel as twitchy, but you need to be ginger on the peddle or they'll lock up without much effort. By a "big m/c" is it a single cylinder or duel? If you're dead set on power assist brakes, Smart Booster and Datsport put the booster on the other side of the firewall.
  14. LOL, Trying to get a piggyback boost controller to play nice with a stock ECU is a bit like playing Clue. It was Mr. Timing in the ignition with a wastegate spring. Glad you got your SR to finally wake up though. A little boost goes a long way. Do you have an O2 sensor with gauge in the car?
  15. paradime


    This^ Speculation will only drive you nuts. Eliminate one thing at a time until it works again.
  16. paradime


    Hot top/cold bottom, sounds like its the thermostat to me. While there, try flushing the entire system to eliminate any question of clogging.
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