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Noll

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About Noll

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/22/1998

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Almonte, Ontario
  • Cars
    '74 260Z, '72 240z, '82 Lada Niva, 3x Subaru Justy
  • Occupation
    Student

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  1. Noll

    Rock Auto Discount Codes go here

    9388652288951766 Expires Dec 16.
  2. Got most of the d/s floor rust cut out today. Still need to remove the fuel and brake lines to get the last of it by the rocker panel, and ran out of cutting discs when doing the front, so that'll be for another day. Frame rail is in pretty good shape, which is nice. Small hole by the subframe mounting bolt at the middle-right of the pic, should be a simple fix. The rear of the floor desn't have any holes, but the flange where it meets the back wall is pretty haggard. Not sure what I'll do about that yet, as the gas tank is right behind there so I don't want to cut/weld unless I have to. Might get some automotive body ashesive and coat the flange after removing all the rust? That would be more than strong enough. I'm thinking I might also invest in a cheap sandblasting setup to get all the rust out of the frame rail and other hard-to reach spots before paint and welding the floor back in over top.
  3. designed and 3d-printed a blanking plate for the hole in the dash: Then my new bluetooth to FM transmitter came in, and it turns out it's perfectly sized for that same spot: so I made a v2 of the blanking plate with a mount for the transmitter. Turned out to be a perfect press-fit first time, so that is nice. No in-car pics yet as I need to use the transmitter in my current daily till the justy is done, but you get the idea.
  4. With the newfound ability to properly weld acquired, I did some work on the d/s fender today. properly welded the bits that were previously tacked on: I did have a bit of a warpage issue when welding a piece on the front repair, but I hammered it out roughly into the correct shape, and should be able to finish it with a skim coat of body filler. Still have some more grinding of welds to do too, as can be seen.
  5. Well, I think I've finally sorted out my welding issues! Got some .030 wire as mentioned above, and was able to try it out just now. Max heat, min wire speed, and good penetration!
  6. No welding today, as I've decided to get some .030 wire to see if that helps my cold welds problem (I'm thinking that not powerful welder + changing from flux to gas which is less heat + smaller wire dia. is making it so I can't get enough heat for good penetration even on max welder settings). Was thanksgiving day here in Canada, so couldn't get the wire today. One of the tabs on the p/s turn signal snapped off when I removed it from a parts-car, so I 3d-printed and glued on a replacement one: Got it on, and mocked up the bumper and p/s fender: also 3d-printed up a spark plug wire clip for the larger dia wires these wires are: And swapped the gearknob for one with a working 4x4 button and wiring. This was a massive pain, as the knob is held in by a split pin. Getting it out of the spare shift lever was no biggie, but removing the one from the in-situ lever took about an hour and a lot of cursing, as much of the impact of the hammer-blows was absorbed by the shift linkages. Still, got it in the end. 4x4 works (relays click), but no light on the dash still, so I still need to investigate that.
  7. Did a lot of wiring today, not so much welding. Started by replacing this frayed headlight harness with one from a parts-car (1st pic is after I began): Then did some repairs to the 4wd vacuum solenoid area, as well as returning the wiring to stock. 4wd works now (can hear the solenoids activate), but the dash light doesn't some on. Will have a look at that at a later date, as I recall there are a couple cut wires under the dash still; might very well be related. Removed the valve cover to change the gasket. Dowsn't look too gunky all things considered. Not terrible at all. Back to wiring, I also fixed the distributor's connection to the wiring harness. There was a trailer wiring connector spliced in in place of a normal plug, and the whole thing was in a pretty sorry state. Decided to also get the wiring for the extra lights done. Halfway through: And working. Cleaned up all the wiring as well, and successfully ran wire to a switch on the dash (replaced the switch that was being used for 4wd, as that's back to stock): Next up is to make mounts for the lights on the bumper, and get back to welding.
  8. That is pretty funny, haha. Not a huge amount of actual progress today, but went and got a bottle of inert welding gas, 0.023 wire, and correct sized tips. After some trial and error, (and figuring out how to properly swap the bus bar to set my welder to gas-welding), everything is working, and very nicely. Plan for tomorrow is to weld up all the stuff I've previously tacked together, change the valve cover gasket, sort some engine-bay electrical stuff, and maybe start welding some new bits if time allows.
  9. That's pretty cool! I found a few old commercials about the justy on youtube, but hadn't seen that one. Thanks! Quite a lot of work still to go, but slowly getting there.
  10. Got the justy into the garage after doing some organizing. Should be much better for when I start doing gas-shielded MIG, and it's nicely out of the elements for other work too. (yeah, I need to gat back to work on the Lada Niva too, going to use the Justy to practice my welding before I resume that project). Dug this out of the engine bay; was being used as a ground lead. Replaced with an actual ground wire off a parts-car. I'm also going to need to deal with the fact that there's a trailer wiring harness spliced in by the distributor for some reason. Probably going to cut that bit of harness out of a parts-car and solder in like the radio. Also got some more goodies from Rockauto. Valve cover no longer dripping on hot exhaust will be nice. This is without a doubt the smallest oil filter I've ever seen, can't be much bigger than the one on our riding lawnmower.
  11. Today's progress. designed and 3d-printed some inserts for the rear hatch, and installed them. Now I can bolt on a license plate when that time comes. Didn't bother being very careful with the glue as it'll be hidden by the plate and I'll need to take it all apart next spring to do rust repair there as can be seen at the top left. Also swapped the mirrors for a set off a parts-car. They were both ziptied and taped together, with busted adjuster mechanisms. Much better.
  12. Well, this one is definitely living up to that namesake! I bet a turbo would be a blast, kinda pondering adding one myself at some point. For now just going to get the car on the road though haha.
  13. Also figured I should make a full to-do list: ENGINE BAY -clean up wiring, remove errant grounds etc -fix 4wd wiring -degrease -rad mount/swap -engine bay rust (battery area) -Valve cover gasket -change fluids -strut top mount INTERIOR -p/s floor minor rust repair -shifter area rust repair -driver's floor rust repair -spare tire well rust repair -paint -rear seatbelt mount area repair - find carpet, put different driver's seat in (possibly just swap seat rails for driver/pass) -power for fm transmitter, phone, dashcam, etc -cupholder -fix trim pieces -paint bottom of p/s door black -Swap shifter for working button one EXTERIOR -front inner arch rust repair -finish front fenders -rear arch rust repair -rear bumper area rust repair -swap rear bumper from another car -aluminum cover for fuel pump -new front wipers -front fog light mounts and wiring -under-door rust cleaning -rear brake rebuild + brake lines -parking brake cable install -check front brakes -swap tires -get alignment front/rear -front bumper turn signals -remount front bumper
  14. Thanks! Still a ways to go, but making progress! Still hoping to have this "done" (roadworthy) by end of Oct or thereabouts.
  15. High idle is sorted, purring nicely at 1000rpm now.
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