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About Noll

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/22/1998

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Almonte, Ontario
  • Cars
    '74 260Z, '82 Lada Niva, 3x Subaru Justy, '00 Impreza OBS
  • Occupation

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  1. Cut out the inside section to weld in the seatbelt mount, then realized I should do the outside 1st to ensure I get it aligned properly. Got the outside on and tacked. Decided to do the cut/weld after where it steps down so that it will be hidden if I didn't ground it down perfectly. All welded up and sanded back. This is where I unfortunately ran out of shielding gas, and nowhere to get more with it being a holiday. Happily, the welding I did get done allowed me to do some measuring, cutting, and then mock up the rocker fitment on the car! I still need to take about 1/8" off the door pillar for it all to fit perfectly, then tack it (after doing the bracing finally), and mock up the door to see what adjustment is needed.
  2. Thanks! Not perfect, but nothing a skim coat of filler won't sort when its time for that. Yeah, I'm really liking this new welder. Figured that with how much time I want to spend on this car this summer, I don't want to be fighting my equipment, and I want to be 100% sure my weld penetration is good before welding the rockers on.
  3. Decided to bite the bullet and get a better welder, as even at max power I can barely get penetration with .030 wire, and nada with .024. This was an awesome purchase, I wish I'd done it earlier. Got this for 300$ off; it was far cheaper to get the combo kit than the standalone welder for some reason. .024 with the old welder VS the new lincoln: Started by filling the hole that was cut into the rocker for the intended drag car chassis mount. From this: To this: Next up, the outside. Started with this: Did some measuring and cutting, and had this. Fixed the cutout of the center brace too; not pretty as it is never seen. All welded up. Made a piece for the inside to bring it out to the length of the outside: And compared to the other side: Next up is to do the same process to the rear, then prep it all to be welded to the car.
  4. Did some repair work to the rear of the door opening so that I actually have somewhere to weld the new rocker to. Not perfect, but pretty happy with it. Started with this: Did this: And complete. I'll be dealing with the swaybar mount rust later, as I can't really jack the car up until it has structural rigidity again. Got the flange for the outer section of wheel arch in place, as it is sandwiched between the inner section and the rocker. Will be seam sealing/painting everything before it's hidden under the rocker.
  5. If I had the cash I'd totally do that, that sounds pretty awesome. International flights aren't cheap though lol. Yep, slowly plugging away, will get it done eventually 🙂 .
  6. Yeah, it was an amazing trip. 25000km, 25 countries, and ended up circumnavigating the world into the bargain (finish line was near Lake Baikal, and I took a train to Vladivostok from there then 3 flights to get back to canada).
  7. Thanks! Yeah, metalwork has been a learning experience for sure, the end result should be good though I hope! And yeah, while the metalwork required on it isn't TOO bad, all the little patches add up fast. It's especially a shame as the paint is perfect otherwise. That pic was at the Davarza Gas crater (link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darvaza_gas_crater) Soviet scientists accidentally created it while trying to burn off a pocket of gas in the 70's, and it's been burning ever since. Was one of the highlights of the trip (or just life in general), to get out there (8km from anything even remotely resembling a road), see it in person, and camp ~10ft from the edge. Car in the pic is our Opel Agila; it was pretty cramped with 4 6ft + guys in it and all our stuff, but we made it work. 1.2L, FWD, and it took the 25000km of terrible and non-existant roads like a champ. We put a massive dent in the gas tank, put a strut thru the hood (paid someone 50$ to weld it back up), and cracked the oil pan (found the only TIG welder in mongolia, and fixed it for 37 bucks), but otherwise no real damage. For the Niva, parts availability is actually pretty simple; as they're still making them new in Europe, stuff is dirt cheap to order from the Ukraine (new front OEM fenders are ~90 bucks, and rear quarters are about the same) - Just have to wait a few weeks for it to arrive.
  8. Been focused on my 260 for the past while, but with the nice weather I figured I'd make a little headway on this. Drum hardware back in place on the driver's side; I couldn't do the passenger side as I'm missing some hardware for mounting the wheel cylinder (will order shortly). Dug into the rear inner arch rust, and of course there is more than it initially looked like. This'll be a job for another day; will need to remove that outer reinforcement plate to fix it properly. Got the front bumper back on: And generally cleaned up/painted stuff: Got it running again too! Battery and priming the mechanical fuel pump was all it took.
  9. Removed the plates leftover from the tube-frame mounting jig: And cleaned up: As the seatbelt mounts were removed and replaced with future mounts for the chassis this body was going to be placed on, I'll be cutting that section out and replacing with the good bit from my inner rocker. Some fabrication will be required for the lower bit, but at least I have most of it: Removed the front mount pocket too. Should be pretty simple to bring back to stock. I'll be cutting off the rear of my replacement rockers to weld in here (unless anyone has some spare tabco sections, seems a shame to cut up my complete replacements for a few sections).
  10. I've been pondering how best to align the new rocker to ensure it's in exactly the same place; I'm thinking at the front I'll measure the other side for the distance from the front arch overlap to the bottom of the doorjamb panel. At the rear I'm going to spraypaint over where the inner rocker is spot-welded over the inner tie-in panel, so when I remove the inner rocker I'll have a cutoff line of paint to allow me to align the new inner it exactly as it was. Temporary sharpie mark where the paint line will end up being after panel removal:
  11. Got the rockers cut out of the shell. They will need a decent amount of prep work before they are ready to be fit to the car, mostly to remove the bracing mounts and other misc. Rear valence off too. It looks like the replacement valence was shortened for some reason (vs my cutoff from my replacement quarters). I suppose I could try to add a metal strip on the bottom to bring it back to spec, but I get the feeling that will warp like a mofo when welded. Might need to pick up a replacement lower valence when I get new floors. thoughts?
  12. Picked up and brought home the 280z shell. Now to get started dismantling it for the bits I need. And my haul from the meet. Lots of very useful stuff!
  13. Thanks! I still have a ways to go before I am perfectly happy with my metalworking skills, but getting there! Eventually I'd ideally like to be able to just grind stuff flush and have it be a completely seamless transition.
  14. I decided to delve into the first of the radiator support repairs today: This is what I was starting with: Removed the corner gusset: Cut out the bad, and re-made the rusted front flange: Made a new bit and mocked it all up: Welded in: And the corner bracket back in:
  15. I decided to delve into the first of the radiator support repairs today: This is what I was starting with: Removed the corner gusset: Cut out the bad, and re-made the rusted front flange: Made a new bit and mocked it all up: Welded in: And the corner bracket back in: Weather was great today, so made more progress. Started by stripping all the flaky paint and rust from the underside of the hood. There's a couple areas with pitting/minor rust, so I'm probably going to fix the worst of it, POR15 the whole thing, then topcoat it black. This is the worst part; happily this section on my spare bent hood is in good shape, so I'll weld in that section. Next, I removed the radiator and cleaned the crusty rust off the front rad support. Some of the rust areas: Looks like the car has been hit at some point, the flanges here are not attached to the other panel: More evidence of a past hit: I'm trying to decide if I want to fix the rust, or get someone to cut the front ~18" off a parts car for me to unpick the welds and weld in place of my rad support. Thoughts? With the radiator out, i was able to take a decent pic of the frame rail rust. The other side is basically the same. Should be a relatively easy fix as it's only the top/side, not the flange where it's spot welded. This is why I think the fuel tank and related stuff may have been replaced at some point: Tank is out now too! One bolt had to be cut, the other one undid nicely. Seems pretty solid underneath, happily. Got the bumper-mount off: Got pretty lucky with this bolt: Rear tow hooks removed too. Unfortunately 3/4 bolts snapped, but I'll deal with that at a future date: And removed the crappy patchwork on the rear floor: Is there any desire for the front bumper mounts (in good shape), or should I toss them? I'll be going to early 240z mounts. A pretty productive day all-in-all, I'd say.
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