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About Noll

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/22/1998

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  • Location
    Almonte, Ontario
  • Cars
    '74 260Z, '82 Lada Niva, '04 WRX wagon
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  1. That's the plan! Still more work to do before both sides are done, but it'll all be getting properly waxed once that time comes. It was done at the dealer when new, and while there obviously was still rust, the old wax saved most of the inner rocker panels which makes my job easier. Also very true lol, my volvo 240 has the same. At 15 previous owners and no sign of an engine rebuild ever, it leaks out of a lot of places to say the least. Underside is pretty much rust free though 🙂 .
  2. Thanks! Shame most of the early pics are seemingly broken, but ah well. ----------------------------------------------------- Continuing on with the "boring but needs to happen" stuff. Welded up the spot-weld holes in the battery tray, and drilled some holes for bolting it in instead. Will need to do the same on the car side, as well as some captive nuts. Then spent a couple hours vibrating my hands apart using an oscillating tool to remove the remnants of undercoating from this side: and everything on the passenger side too. This sucked, but needed to happen so I can weld on this side of the engine bay without the welds being contaminated. Still a bunch of ugly welds etc to clean up as well here.
  3. Oh sweet, that'd be some super useful info. Happen to have a link to the specific thread?
  4. Lots of small stuff that needed doing in the engine-bay area today. Removed the wiper linkage at long last, ground off a bunch of captive nuts with snapped-off-bolts in them from the fenders and welded in new ones (no pics, because that's boring), and then addressed the rust around the hood latch mount: too pitted for my liking, so time for new metal. And back on, using the spot welds as a reference point. Finally got around to fixing that hole in the strut tower: This part of the windshield frame was always slightly off, and I didn't want to have to build up masses of filler to make the seal fit properly when the time comes for reassembly. And so, much shopping and welding later, we have this. Still imperfect, but a whole lot closer to how it should be. May do another round of tweaking, or might just call it good and either lead it or use some filler to finish (I have no experience in lead filler but I'm sure I can figure it out). Compared to the other side:
  5. I really should work on this car more than once every 6 months, jeez. Wasn't feeling datsun work yesterday, so pulled the Niva out of the weeds and did some stuff to it. When I left off last I had the rocker all cut out to replace, but hadn't done the final fitment or any welding yet. What is encouraging is that the car has been out in the elements with only the zinc primer to protect it, and there is zero rusting having formed through the paint (one tiny spot where I missed spraying a bit). This bodes well for it actually doing its job of protecting cavities etc that I can't get at later. Did some more cutting and welded the rocker on. It needed some slight persuasion at the back for all the body lines to match, but nothing major. Looking whole again! I still need to cut out the rear arch to fix rust between the layers, so no point fixing that gap in the arch just yet. Inner arch fixed too. Ugly welds, because that spot is a bear to get into, but it does the job and will be seam-sealed etc. I really should work on this thing more often.
  6. Realized that before I go any further with finishing adding structure to the front end, I should fit the fenders and hood to make sure everything lines up. Small amounnt of tweaking was required, but it all sits nicely now. Figured while I was at it I might as well throw the rest of the front end together. Now that I've adjusted stuff a bit the rad support sits even better which is nice. The ae86 inserts also just arrived, and the fit perfectly which is awesome. I'll need a ~2mm spacer at the bottom of the strut tube so I can properly snug up the gland nuts and then the front will be complete.
  7. Indeed, and they got back to me pretty much immediately which was great. I have a set of the AE86 inserts on the way now, hopefully to arrive within a few days. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Haven't posted much progress for the last little bit; not because I've not being doing anything but rather that it's not been anything particularly interesting. Finished taking apart the rear CVs, removing rear springs, cleaning up the bushing seats on the rear LCAs, and going general cleanup. Back to more welding now though! Made some front bumper mount plates: Welded on, as well as the front upper frame horn section. Mostly cleaned up: Just a couple more small things to do and the driver's side of the engine bay will be all done.
  8. Ok, got a response from them; I'll stick it here in case it helps anyone else searching in the future - If anyone has a better place to put the info I'm all ears but I think most of the old strut dimension threads are now locked/stickied so I can't comment there. ----------------------- Based on the details you have provided, I would recommend taking a look at our 365041. Below are the requested specs: Part Number Extended Length Compressed Length Body Length Body Size (Outside) 363046 21.38" 14.61" 14.13" 38.1mm 364014 21.14" 14.41" 12.95" 42.7mm 365041 20.04" 13.62" 13.5" 42.7mm The 365041's are for the front of an AE86, definitely something I should have considered in my research before but good to know now regardless. The '85 MR2 rears (363046) will be a tad long (although might work if I shave the bottom "cup" down) but would be a solid option for someone who doesn't want to cut their housing as short as I did, and the 364014's (late 80's VW jetta) will work in my case with a spacer or for anyone who wants to cut even more out.
  9. Fair, and amazon is always a good bet. I've had good luck with Rockauto thus far too and they're also good with returns, so will come down to price. Sadly my local autoparts stores will probably need to order stuff in, and it'll likely get a little scratched once I test-fit so they probably wouldn't want to. Likewise about Koni - possibly eventually whenever whatever I go with wears out, but I can't justify the cost currently, as much as I may want to. I just sent KYB tech support an email to ask for more info about a couple options I think should work - namely the tube diameter and body length. With any luck I'll hear back and one or the other will work, or they'll have another recommendation that will. For reference, the options I've found so far are KYB 363046 and KYB 364014.
  10. Good to know, and those are both for housings that are shortened (hair over 13.5" inside tube length now vs the stock 15")? I don't mind cheap for now as long as performance isn't god-awful. I'll have a look through all the old 510/zx strut threads again too to see what other possibilities are there I may have glossed over the last time I looked into inserts in detail Someone elsewhere recommended these (also a tight fit but he verified he's used them in 240 casings before) and they seem great, but 320$ CAD per side is rather steep for my current budget. https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Products/Accessories/Race-Single/
  11. Does indeed seem to be the case. not the end of the world, but a hassle for sure. Just need to do a bunch of research and possibly some trial-and-error to find a pair that work and fit well, but the upside is that once I do find a good option it'll hopefully help any others in the future going the DIY route now the BZ3099's are long-since NLA.
  12. Many thanks, I'm glad others are enjoying it too. I've honestly considered that, but I already have a friend who has a vehicle they named "Patches" - an early Bronco that is similarly welded back together from many vehicles like my Z.Would feel wrong to use the same one even if wasn't an intentional copy. The latter, here's a pic. I forced it around in the bore a bit to get a better idea of how far it was going -just past the thinner-walled section where the threads are and no farther.
  13. Yep, I'm still at a bit of a loss as to how I got so lucky, but I sure won't complain! Grannyknot, package just arrived today, many thanks! Awesome to have non-rusty bits again without spending mega money on NOS stuff. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok, I have a bit of an issue and could use some pointers from anyone who has been here before in regards to suspension. I can't for the life of me get the KYB MR2 inserts to fit into my housings. A few old threads mention the MR2 inserts as being a "tight fit" but this is absurd. The 240z fronts I'll be using for the rear fit fine (other than obviously being too long now) - they measure ~42.8mm in diameter whereas the KYB MR2 inserts measure ~43.8mm dia. - even with the 240z inserts having a little bit of play there's not enough extra space for the extra 1mm. I've used a small engine cylinder hone tool to clean up the inside of the tubes just in case there was rust buildup causing issues, but to no avail. In theory I could keep going to remove the extra ~.3 or .4mm I need for the KYB MR2 fronts to fit, but that will take forever and removing material from strut housings doesn't scream "good idea" even if it's minor. I also removed the paint off one of the struts to test, but even with that there's still no way it'll fit. I initially went with the 87-89 KYB MR2 fronts because the Tokico BZ3099's the everyone seems to recommend in old forum threads are very much NLA, and as the KYBs are for the exact same car I figured they would work fine from a dimension standpoint. As you can see here though, the bottom few inches is the "correct" diameter before it steps up for some reason. The 3099's have no such feature. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502700&cc=1276792 At this point it seems like I have a few options. #1 - Monroe MR2 rear inserts https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=118935&cc=1276792 These don't seem to have the "step" that the KYBs have, although it's a crapshoot as to what the actual diameter is. The specs page also leads me to think the body length could be a tad long (even though they're for the same application as the KYBs?), and, I dunno, Munroe seems like super cheap daily-beater replacement stuff, not sure if they'll be up to snuff for the coilover setup? #2 - 85-86 KYB MR2 inserts https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502587&cc=1276769 These seem close in specs (a tad longer in stroke, not sure about body though), and a few old forum threads mention they're a bit narrower although not by how much. Visually they look more"right", and I can always shave down the bottom cone seat if they are a bit too long for my shortened housings. #3 - VW rabbit or 300zx etc shocks Alternatively, I could do some more searching through old forum threads and dig up some other options (and then compare specs to suit). Too short is fine as long as the stroke is long enough still, I can always make a spacer for the housing. Nobody seems to list diameters though, so still a bit of luck as to if they'll be a tad too large in that aspect still. As it stands currently, #2 seems like the best, as they seem the most likely to fit and if they're too tall I can always shave the bottom cones or just return them if the difference is too great. Any other options/thoughts? I guess I could also go for Konis etc, but that's $$$$ I can't really justify spending just yet
  14. Started taking apart the rear suspension today. Apparently I am the luckiest person alive because both pins came out in under 20 minutes total with just a hammer and punch. Heck, the one in the left is even reusable, which after shipping and import costs probably saves me 80-100$. Was NOT expecting it to be this easy given the horror stories I've heard about the pins and how rusty my car was (plus the fact that it sat outside for ~20 years before I got it). The one on the right had some corrosion and the threads were FUBAR, but after welding on a nut and using my impact to spin it in its bore for a minute to break it free it also tapped right out like nothing.
  15. Got everything as assembled as it can be until I get the inside of the strut tubes cleaned out, loctited the coilover sleeve clamp screws to make sure they don't work loose. On to more engine bay rust work next, and the rear struts at some point.
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