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Noll

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About Noll

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/22/1998

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Almonte, Ontario
  • Cars
    '74 260Z, '82 Lada Niva, '04 WRX wagon
  • Occupation
    Student

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  1. Many thanks! Long road to get here and I've made some mistakes, but getting close. That is a good idea, something for me to consider for sure. I'm kind of leaning towards the wingless look now, so we'll have to see. ----------------------------------------- Nothing super groundbreaking today, cleaned up (mostly) the new d/s rail. It'll need some stuff cut out and other stuff welded on: And got the front suspension further ripped apart so I could test-fit the main crossmember. Happily, everything lines up perfectly. I'm thinking I'll cut the inner fender skin around 15mm above the frame rail and rebuild it from there. Should be less work overall vs trying to make a number of patches to the rusty metal that's there.
  2. Glad to hear that you're getting it dialed in! I was thinking while working on my car today that too much heat + too much wire speed could be part of the cause of your earlier issues, but you've beat me to it on a solution before I got to comment that haha. Good starting point for gap and angle, angle isn't TOO crucial, and you can play around with it to do different things which is nice. Push weld puddle across a large gap, direct more heat at the thicker of two panels to prevent blow-through, etc. Welds look good! What does the back side look like? For cutoff wheels I use 0.045" 4.5" cutoff wheels like these: https://www.amazon.ca/disques-ultra-Focus-metal-inoxydable/dp/B01N37VNIU/ I haven't tried that technique yet (the 45deg cut, right?), but they would work fine for it and in general they're nice for keeping cut widths narrow.
  3. Back out to finish the job today. I've spent 14 of the last ~30 hours welding on this thing at this point lol. Made the two templates from last time into metal, welded them on, and welded the outer rail back on top: Carefully-made template for this void, and made into metal: Still need to make/weld the brace on top of that layer of metal, and decide if I should leave the stitch-welds as-is or make one continuous bead. Thoughts? And, after measuring about 3 million times throughout the process, I welded the rail on. All is perfectly in place, although the front end of the rail is slightly corkscrewed. I'll reef on it a bit with some vice grips to straighten it up before I weld anything else to it. Also going to bolt up the front subframe crossmember to make sure all is well, although the measurements do all check out so I see no reason it wouldn't fit And cleaned up. Pretty happy with the way the day went all things considered. Next up will be to decide what to tackle first - the other rail, front lower crossmember, inner skin for this side, inner wheelarch brace, etc.
  4. made and welded on the missing front section of the frame rail: Turned out pretty well, in my opinion: Took it off, and cut out more metal to get at this: Cleaned up: Made some templates, mocked stuff up, and called it quits for the day because I'd been going for 7 hours at this point and was dead tired.
  5. Bit the bullet and cut out all the bad on the passenger side. [/url] Old and new: Whole lotta rust came out of the old one: I made a super simple template to use for marking the rails to cut - makes sure I get the cut angles the same on both. [/url] Had a more in-depth look at the TC mounts, and it would appear that one of the bushing mounts is trash, and the other 3 are missing . The actual main skin of the mounts is fine, seems like the outer sections became un-welded and cacme off when I removed the rest of the bushing stuff. I also need to fix this at some point, the TC mount structure is fine but the frame rail skin above no so much. Going to need to cut a lot out to get at it which sucks. Welded in a patch for the new rail: And made some SUPER beefy towhook mounts. More to do before they go on. Also trying to decide if I want to reinforce the swaybar mounts. These rails are from a 280 so there's way more internal bracing than a 240/60, so not sure if it's needed - most of the "frame rail ripping from upgraded swaybar" issues I've heard about were on 240s. Thoughts? Mocked up the new rail. I need to extend it by around 55mm as it was cut off a car too far back, you can see the (mocked up) tow hook mount as a reference:
  6. Ripped the old rad support off today. Started by cleaning up the old "patch" on the passenger side to reveal this lovely workmanship: Main stuff roughly cut off: The 260z bumper mounts that weld on top of the 240 sheetmetal weren't in the best shape so I decided to rip them off too, I'm going to proper 240z bumper mounts anyway. And all off: It looks rough, but all the annoying stuff to re-make is intact, should be easy patches. now the fun part, as I thought was the case, the p/s frame rails is bent. Driver's side: Vs the passenger side: Front and rear measurements: You can kinda see it here (don't mind my crooked braces). I measured the top frame horn, and that's all as it should be, although I'll be checking the FSM measurements to be sure before I finalize anything. "new" bits:
  7. Hmmm... I want to say ground related, it's a bit of an odd issue. a vid would be the easiest way to see, but that's obviously hard to do with welding. Do you mean you intentionally walked the wire to the edge of the weld, or that once the puddle pushed out to that point it blew through the top layer? If the panels are tight together I can't see any reason that would happen.
  8. As already mentioned, definitely looks like more heat is needed. Good first go though, far better than my first attempt lol. practicing on some scrap is always a good thing, lets you mess around with wildly different settings and weld types to see what works for what. Just a guess, but given your first weld that you said went OK was a butt weld and the other two were overlapping, did you change the heat any? If it was hypothetically already a bit on the low side for the first, the extra metal at play in the 2nd and 3rd welds could definitely absorb heat to the point of causing issues if settings were not changed. Bump up the heat and give it a go, and possibly lower the wire speed a tad and see what happens 🙂 . Personally I have had zero issues clamping to something coated in weld-thru, but I suppose it comes down to the brand of primer, your welder, etc etc.
  9. Ehh, it's not too bad haha. I have replacement frame rails and upper rrad support, the rest of the rust is mostly straightforward patches. Going to take time, but nothing too technical thankfully. ----------------------------------------------------- Worked on getting the rear subframe out today. Super high-tech jacking points: Got it all out. This would not have been fun without the impact, with it it was a breeze. Got the diff separated. I'll have to deal with the pain that is the spindle pins soon, and the outer axle bolts are also proving a pain. Thinking I might just grind the heads off, although they aren't exactly the world's cheapest bolts to buy replacements for. Got the fuel lines out too. I wire-wheeled them a bit, and other than where they rotted out above the rear diff they're super solid .Probably will clean them up and re-use to save the effort of re-bending new ones as they are so good. Next up, back to the regularly scheduled welding. Need to rip out the old rad support and frame rails so I can get started with the repairs.
  10. Finally got an electric impact, best purchase I've made in a while. Decided to get the front suspension off the car today, had to start by removing 1/4" of bathroom caulking from the bolts on this side because of course the previous owner would put that over rust.... Went smoothly otherwise though, god I love power tools. The subframe/rack/etc is all in great shape happily, should just be a case of clean/scuff/paint. All up on stands: And had another look at all the rust areas I'll need to deal with: Next up will be to remove the rear suspension the same way, then brace the front and cut off the rad support. Anyone have tips for order of operations for removing the rear? Looks like a lot of bolts blocked by other things that are blocked by other things lol.
  11. Finished the dogleg today: threw on the door, all seems well. Don't mind the lack of gap, just holding it on with my elbow for that pic. And my new radiator showed up!
  12. Got a good chunk of the passenger side stuff done today. Cut out the bad: Took this: And turned it into this after a couple hours: Tacked in the upper section of the main repair. Will finish it and the main lower section in the next couple days, ran out of time today.
  13. D/s dogleg successfully welded in today. You can see here that the gap at the corner is a little funky. Pretty sure that's just because this door has been patched and repaired a ton, but if it's still a problem when I get the new doors on I can always do a bit of slicing and welding. Leaving this open for now, as it will be much less of a pain to make once the car is on its side. Same deal with the p/s once I do it. Started cutting the unneeded metal off the 'new' engine bay frame rails: Passenger side dogleg tomorrow, then on to the engine bay.
  14. That's a solid option too, something to think about I suppose. Not an easy choice to make haha, both are very good options. ------------------------------------------ Finished the bumper mounts. Should be suitably overkill. And mocked up! I have barely any actual bumper hardware yet, but just enough to get it on the car. It'll need a bit of tweaking. I got this bumper for dirt cheap or free (can't recall at this point) and the plan has always been to eventually find a straighter, less rusty one. Will clean this one up a bit in the meantime. Not bad, only a little bit of bending required. And threw the spoiler back on to see how it looks with the bumper: It's still super nice to see it all coming together!
  15. Thanks all! Yeah, It's definitely growing on me! My only trepidation is how to go about mounting it - it's flexible urethane so I'll need to either glue it on the whole hatch, or use rivets (or rivnuts) all the way long (so as to eliminate warpage). Given the hatch is likely to need a bit of filler I dunno if the latter is the best option. Hmm... @ShawnM - Yep, gotta love even 'new' parts needing work haha. If I can manage this restoration as some schmuck with basic hand tools and no prior experience, I'm sure you can get those panels sorted! Just a ton of test fitting and tweaking. Thanks! I'm still aiming for Zcon in sept, going to be a close one though, and comes down to if I have $$ for all the new parts I need (hardware, gasket kit for doors/hatch/etc). Good to know, glad it's a good one. Good point about the weight distribution, if I go with that battery I'll definitely make sure it's on the pass. side. True enough about only needing one cable, I've heard of some people having issues when using the chassis as the ground though, so figured it'd be cheap insurance to run a cable up to the engine block. --------------------------------------- Didn't do much today, but started on some beefy rear bumper mounts:
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