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Noll

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About Noll

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/22/1998

Profile Information

  • Location
    Almonte, Ontario
  • Cars
    '74 260Z, '82 Lada Niva, 1991 Volvo 240

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  1. Had another day where I didn't feel like working on the Z, so got more done in the Niva. Made a new section of line at the rear: And got pads, calipers, etc all in and hooked up up front. Opted not to replace the rotors as they're perfectly fine other than a little surface rust and I'd have to remove a LOT of stuff to take them out. I'll go back another time and wire-brush and paint everything, it looks gross but it's just old undercoating that's peeling off. That pretty much marks the end of the mechanical work
  2. That seems like it would be nice, but their kit that's big enough for car tank is 365$ , which is pretty darn pricey. If I could get at the inside of the tank to tape the holes up and then brush it on outside I could get away with a lot less I'm sure, but that isn't really an option. https://www.caswellcanada.ca/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer-gts1.html As of now I'm thinking of the POR-15 tank sealer kit for the inside after using some PC-7 2-part epoxy on the exterior (says that it's suitable for gasoline, but shouldn't matter as the tank sealer will go over it on the in
  3. Oh I bet, will take care not to shoot epoxy through the nice gun 🙂 . Yeah, it seems a bit pricey (although fair enough for what it is), the lack of prep or cleanup is pretty enticing though (as well as being handy for tight spaces without worrying about dragging the air hose across fresh paint). If nothing else I'll probably get some for after-filler touchups etc. -------------------------------------- Got the fuel tank back today, and the rad shop only charged me 60$ which was nice. First, the good. The inside came out great, most of the black flecks of stuff will come
  4. Not really, I may very well do so. I hadn't looked at prices for DIY kits yet, figured if they were somewhat close I might was well have the shop do it and have a warranty on the work. Seems like DIY should be a lot cheaper though which is nice. Thanks for the link! Might be a task to find that stuff here in canada, but I'll have a look. If not, POR15 and KBS make tank sealer kits too, dunno which I'd use. Oh yeah, 2k epoxy is definitely the plan. I think I might as well paint it now before it hits the road, I've come this far, no reason not t
  5. Just heard back from the rad shop - apparently the inside of the tank cleaned up pretty nicely, but there's enough pinholes that they'd want to coat both the inside and outside of the tank, which would get pretty pricey (over the 300$ estimate from previous). They say that I should be able to get it decent with some welding though, so I'm going to pick it up from them (they're only charging 80$ for the dipping/cleaning done so far which is nice), do a bunch of repairs myself now it's a clean and safe thing to weld on, and possibly drop it back off to be coated although they say th
  6. Thanks! It's exciting to see it all coming together 🙂 . Yeah, some soapy water should solve that nicely. Good to hear, and I'll definitely run it through its travel to be 100% sure. I had pondered just rocking it as-is for this season (lets me drive it faster which is a win), but for a number of reasons I think painting it now makes more sense. Pulling out all the glass again and removing all the panels (or at least the doors) to do jambs seems like a pain (the front/rear glass especially, door seals too as they'll be glued in), and there's enough imperfection
  7. So, instead of going to sleep at a sane hour, I spent last night getting the rear diff and all the rear suspension assembled and torqued to spec. Pretty happy with the outcome: Don't mind the handbrake cables, they're next on the list. Brake lines hooked up too. @grannyknot can you confirm if this was the way you had these setup when they were in your car? Looks like all should clear but never hurts to see how it was done before. With all that done, I had to throw on a wheel/tire to see how it would look. Full droop: As far as it goes before t
  8. Bushings finally showed up, so started throwing stuff together. Front end all done (well, finger tight as I'll need to drop it all for painting the engine bay): With everything being poly or solid (in the case of the control arm bushing, it's a camber-adjustable solid piece) it was a bit of a pain to get everything together, but I managed by unbolting the t/c rods to get the control arms in and then bolting them back up. When I drop the front end again I'll be replacing 1/2 the T/C rod bushings with rubber ones to avoid the possible snapping I've heard about, but I've misplace
  9. More hood repair today, nearly done it now. Wasn't able to get the driver's side repair quite as seamless as I'd have liked, but it turned out pretty well. Easy job to add a little filler to the low spots, and I spent a bunch of time eliminating oil canning from the welding heat, so all good on that front. Cut the top layer off the other side: And after a bunch of work I got the cutoff from the other hood all welded in in the right spot and the brace bit welded back on. There's still some pitting etc visible, but I'd have to basically reskin th
  10. That's the hope! Only downside to doing it this way instead of cutting the tank in half/fixing/welding back up myself is that I could put some additional baffling in if I had done that, but if I run a surge tank when I go efi it should be a non-issue. It will be nice to just pay them and have a ready-to-go tank instead of having to deal with all the rust, crud, and sludge, well worth it IMO.
  11. Yeah, the hood rust is no fun but at least I shouldn't have to make any bits, can cut everything I need off the other hood. Nothing is ever easy with this car lol. I would like to get a seibon carbon hood eventually, but not in the budget for now. --------------------------- Dropped off my gas tank at the radiator shop to be looked at and cleaned/sealed. Amusingly enough there was another Z tank (I want to say 75-76 280z?) there already; not too many datsun enthusiasts in the ottawa area so the odds of 2 of us dropping tanks off at the same place (and on the sa
  12. No sense wasting time while waiting on parts, so back to welding stuff together. Forgot about this bit, not too bad of a fix though. @Skib your car had it a whole lot worse, I'm counting myself lucky. Threw on the chrome trim to make sure fitment was good: Ok, back to the main goal of getting the bolt-on panels done. Leading edge of the hood needed a little work, and I cleaned up the factory fold in the middle while I was at it. The rear had some pinholing, so pulled a chunk off to see how bad it was:
  13. That's a handy tip for sure, will keep in mind for the future. In this case I'll be buying something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07P6LFH7N/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=A1T9L47SOSLRWE&psc=1
  14. Still no bushings (maybe friday), so more misc stuff. made a shim for both rear tophats so there's not a gap between them and the strut body: Got the water drain tubes and air intake ducts in (don't mind the ugly paint, if it's not visible I didn't bother doing as good of a job): And threw the main bit of body harness in. This will probably come out again at least once, I just wanted to refresh myself on how it attached and make sure all was well. the bit that runs along the rocker I'll re-tape as it's pretty gross and visible. I've gotten lucky w
  15. Bushings still didn't show up today (grrr), so did what I could to prep by bolting the halfshafts to the diff and filling it up with 75w90 gear oil.
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