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About Noll

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/22/1998

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Almonte, Ontario
  • Cars
    '74 260Z, '82 Lada Niva, '04 WRX wagon
  • Occupation

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  1. Yup! Hopefully never need to use it for its intended purpose (dead battery and no hill to push start on), but it sure is useful for turning the engine over.
  2. Agreed on both accounts haha. Manufacturing tolerances were more of a guideline lol. Yeah, I'm honestly surprised there's no electrical issues, but everything works like a charm somehow. Mechanically the engine is in top shape, I've fired it off a few times and it's never failed to start immediately. I did have to change the accelerator pump gasket on the carb, but that's about it. haven't started it in the last year or so as the car has just been sitting, but I'm hoping to get it on the road relatively soon (bunch of parts on the way from russia for it as the moment) so that will change once they arrive - gotta pull the engine to do the clutch first as it's stuck. Yup! they got a bad rap for it, but at the same time everything being so basic makes them virtually unkillable. Stuff can be half broken and still work fine.
  3. No problem, and thanks! Yeah, when it's not a part of the build that you enjoy it can definitely drag on. Thankfully, I rather enjoy the metalwork stuff, but it definitely requires a certain type of mindset and there are often times where I need to go work on something else because I'm getting burned out on a certain area or job etc. Especially now, I am so close to being able to flip the car on its side to do final small repairs and strip/epoxy/paint the bottom, but there's still seemingly so many little fiddly bits that need doing before that can happen.
  4. About 75CAD all in, plus about another 30$ for a large pack of belts that should last me quite a while. So far quality seems good, and it has a nice latch/spring mechanism for changing belts easily. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072Q2FTLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  5. New tool day today, and man oh man is it a useful one. Have wanted a decent finger sander for a while, but most were either air powered (my compressor isn't good enough to run one properly), or super cheap ebay stuff that looked like it would fall apart instantly so I shelved the idea for a while. Went hunting for one again recently, and found a decent-looking electric one. After maybe 15 minutes of testing it out it's probably my favorite tool already. Remember these ugly areas on the inner wings that were too tight for me to get an angle grinder to to clean up? No longer an issue (just did a super quick pass as the proof-of-concept). This thing is going to be invaluable for tight areas and all sorts of general finishing work that still needs doing.
  6. Didn't feel like finishing the rad support today, so worked on some other stuff instead. Made a much beefier replacement for the lower grille mount: And new upper mounts: Fits well, and looks good: Just tacked the upper brackets for now as the hood hinges are in the way, will finalize them next time. The reason that the hood hinges were bolted on was the other thing I did today - removing the torsion bars and replacing them with some gas struts. Shoutout to Grannyknot for the idea to do this, it's a really good idea. So much room for activities now, way easier if/when I need space for an intercooler or anything else.
  7. Figured I'd get some more done on this thing before winter hits. I've had a gaping hole in the driver's front floor for as long as I've owned the car, and it was time to finally fix that. Don't mind the super ugly stuff poking through the inner rocker on the left side, that's all getting cut off and redone now that I actually know how to weld lol. Much better. Didn't bother trying to make it super nice or seamless in any way, because, let's be real, it's the floor and I'm not going for a concourse resto with this car. Paint, seam sealer, undercoating, and sound deadening will go over all this anyway. All the old insulation will be getting replaced before the Niva hits the road, but for now it's nice to see it looking how it should again.
  8. Started on the lower rad support today. The first of three sections to build was the inner skin for the lower crossmember. Made a template and transferred it to metal: Did a bunch of measuring, and dimple-died some holes for the first time with my cheap hydraulic dimple-die setup: Welded in. Rather happy with how this turned out. Made a template for the lower rad support skin sections: Rough-cut from metal. Ran out of time today, so will do the bending/folding/etc next time .
  9. Continued on the rad support today. Made a template and then two pairs of plates with welded nuts: Welded them to the outer sections: Tacked to the inner section after shaving it down to fit, before removing it all to finish welding. Pretty happy with how it turned out overall.
  10. Finally got around to refinishing my front hubs and getting the new studs in. Just need to wait on a rockauto order now for a couple bearings and I can get them on the spindles. With that dealt with, I started work on the rad support. Before it could go on, I needed to change this - the new rad support is off a 280z, which had a larger hole on the driver's side for the air intake. This doesn't work with the 240z/260z air ducts that lead to the inner wings, so some chopping was in order. Thankfully this section was salvageable from the old rad support, so easy enough to section it in. Much better. With that done, I drilled a bunch of plug-weld holes in flanges, spent a bunch of time with a hammer and block of wood to put the rad support in just the right spot, and welded it in. With it in, I immediately started cutting it up. I plan to make the center section removable (shoutout to Grannyknot for the idea) for easier engine install/removal, so it was angle grinder time. Next up will be to make some plates with captive nuts here. That'll be next time. Threw on the panels to test, and all fits as it should. There is a cutout on the right side in that wind-deflector panel for where the intake bracket would have bolted on to - I think I'll make a bolt-in panel there to complete the shape and allow me to use the holes for other stuff if I eventually go efi/turbo etc. Nice to be able to look in here and have everything be as it should, finally. Even on jackstands and with half the panels missing it doesn't look half bad.
  11. Welded the brake line brackets back on to the front arches today: Made up a new bit for the front upper frame section that was rusty. Didn't bother making it perfect as it'll never be seen anyway, but it will work well enough. Welded in a patch for the front inner skin: And got the frame section and bumper mount welded on. Also a bit ugly, but never will be seen so I'm fine with it. Next up (at long last) - the upper rad support!
  12. Many thanks! It's not perfect by any means, but I'm happy with it and a skin of filler will sort the imperfections. Better for the join to need some filler than to grind the metal too thin after all. -------------------------------------- Bunch more little stuff done today. Didn't see any reason to buy repro wiring harness clips when I could make my own, so I did just that. and welded a bunch of them in where they were missing from my car: Welded on the main wiring harness mounts too, as well as cleaning up a few pinholes, welding in a few more captive nuts, and drilling/re-threading a couple bolts that had nuts snapped off in them. With that out of the way, it was on to the front upper frame horn section at long last. Hard to show in the pic, but on top of the rust it is also seriously bent and wavy from old accident damage being repaired poorly. After some cleanup. did the initial round of straightening of the fender skin, more to do before it's good though.
  13. Finished up welding in the repair of the front p/s fender skin: Cleaned up, pretty happy with how it turned out: Marked up all the small stuff I need to do to finish this side, and also drilled the holes for the data plate (not the stock location, but I like this better) and mocked up the wiring harness mounts. Obviously won't actually be using self-tappers for the final install. Compared to before. This brings up a question - Now that I'm getting close to done with the engine bay I'm making 100% sure that I'll have all the bolt holes I will need while deleting everything that I can. As such, I've been pondering eliminating the vapor line from the tank - as you can see in the pic it goes farther forward than the feed/return lines, requiring a couple extra captive nuts as well as generally cluttering up the engine bay. Removing it would clean things up and save me the effort of having to bend up another hardline running all the way to the back of the car. Obviously I'd need to change the evap canister stuff and possibly run a vented gas cap etc, but that's all totally doable and simplification doesn't seem like a bad thing. Thoughts? I know Zs are already notorious for gas fumes even with the vapor stuff in place, but I'm sure I could mitigate that. [/url] Again, compared to before:
  14. On to repairing the front section today. Started with this: Hammered it back into shape. Made up a template for the outer strut tower skin to patch the other side, and marked/drilled holes. Moved on to making a template for the front. I was going to make this area in a few different sections welded together, but realized that doing it all in one was viable and would make life easier. Made both templates into metal: And welded in. made the strut tower section a tad too thin, but I'll build that up with some weld so it looks right without a jog where the 2 sections meet. Ran out of time to finish the front section, but it's all bent up and where it should be. Pretty happy with how it turned out, should be pretty clean once the welding is done/cleaned up.
  15. Got to work on patching the p/s inner skin today. Started with a template: ...And then forgot to take more pics until it was welded in and (mostly) cleaned up. Still will have 4-5 more patches to make for the frontmost section (to get the curves right), as well as one for the rest of the strut tower skin that was also cut off.
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