Sons first car. 521

[d.p]

I had to get some other exhaust work done so I just had the exhaust shop weld it for me.  Also had them install a clamp down stream from it to make that section easy to remove later one.  

[TJ H]

Martin isn’t responding. I’d really like to get this thing in the mail so I can weld the exhaust up. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

martin said he wont weld the flange and the Y pipe together(as a assembly) and when these are sold out will be done with them.

I didn't respond back as 130 for 2 pc is a bit much and I have a flange already

 

http://www.mandrelbends.com/merge-collectors/parallel-2-1-merge-collectors.html

Edited October 3, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[d.p]

7 hours ago, TJ H said:

Martin isn’t responding. I’d really like to get this thing in the mail so I can weld the exhaust up. 

yeah he does that.  Shitty that he’s the only guy doing them.  

[bilzbobaggins]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Exhasut-Head-Pipe-Fitting-Datsun-610-1800cc-1972-J5117/352811906037?hash=item52253a73f5:g:N0kAAOSw0JpV3iXT&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId

 

If all you want is the top part of the y pipe, you can go this route.  I bought one of these a few years back.  As it clearly is for a 610, I cut some of the excess off the far end.  I then figured out which way I needed to bend the pipe to get it to clear everything.  Once I had that figured out, I put a pie cut in the pipe, bent it some, bolted it up to the manifold, made final adjustments, then welded some scrap from the end back in the cut.  Worked well enough for me.

 

I hope this helps.  Im really tired and might not be very clear at what I am getting at.

Edited October 4, 2019 by bilzbobaggins
Put a bad link duh-huh

[banzai510(hainz)]

that might be a good way to go and get ceramic coated. I think TJH has stainless already.

If he had a outright price I would by it myself

[TJ H]

10 hours ago, bilzbobaggins said:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Exhasut-Head-Pipe-Fitting-Datsun-610-1800cc-1972-J5117/352811906037?hash=item52253a73f5:g:N0kAAOSw0JpV3iXT&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId

 

If all you want is the top part of the y pipe, you can go this route.  I bought one of these a few years back.  As it clearly is for a 610, I cut some of the excess off the far end.  I then figured out which way I needed to bend the pipe to get it to clear everything.  Once I had that figured out, I put a pie cut in the pipe, bent it some, bolted it up to the manifold, made final adjustments, then welded some scrap from the end back in the cut.  Worked well enough for me.

 

I hope this helps.  Im really tired and might not be very clear at what I am getting at.

I looked at eBay. I currently have a dispute with them about being screwed on some Mini brakes I sold which put a bad taste in my mouth. Like Banzai said. Everything else I have is stainless and with shipping the 620 one is still over $100. Appreciate it though. If I don’t get some movement from Martin soon I’ll just buy some stainless pipe and a flange from a Z place or make my own. 

[TJ H]

Progress. Martin should be shipping the head pipe Monday. Interior, stereo, wiring and clean up is done. Steering wheel was a pita especially getting signals and horn working. Cluster cleaned with led bulbs. Insulated and defrosters added. Seat pins and four point harnesses to make mom happy. 

 

[TJ H]

Need help. Can any of the big brains with the Datsun experience identify these calipers. Trying to finish up on the truck. Replaced rear shoes and added a dual master cylinder from a 620 and made new lines for the front. These are supposedly brakes from a 620 but nothing I look up is similar. They were on the truck when we got it and fit behind 14” wheels. Pedal is not nearly firm enough. Need to start trouble shooting but need to know what these came off of. Lugs are m12x1.25. Brackets are welded 5/16 plate. 

 

Edited October 6, 2019 by TJ H

[wayno]

Take a photo of the back of the caliper.

[TJ H]

[wayno]

The caliper looks like a 1983+ Nissan 720 single piston caliper/vented rotor, they are great brakes, I have them on almost everything I own.

I cannot tell if is an early or late brake caliper/rotor, they have different off-sets.

I cannot tell who made that disc brake kit you have, but I suspect from the photo and the brakes calipers you have it was made by Mike and the calipers/rotors are from a 1983 thru 1985 Nissan 720.

Edited October 6, 2019 by wayno

[TJ H]

2 minutes ago, wayno said:

The caliper looks like a 1983+ Nissan 720 single piston caliper/vented rotor, they are great brakes, I have them on almost everything I own.

I cannot tell if is an early or late brake caliper/rotor, they have different off-sets.

Looking on rock auto the 4x4 pad does look the same. Shouldn’t fit behind 14’s though. Wonder what the rotor is off?

[wayno]

1 minute ago, TJ H said:

Looking on rock auto the 4x4 pad does look the same. Shouldn’t fit behind 14’s though. Wonder what the rotor is off?

I edited my post.

I use what you have on just about everything I own and I use 14 stock rims/hubcaps.

[wayno]

By the way I am talking about 1983-85 2wd 720 brakes.

[TJ H]

1 minute ago, wayno said:

By the way I am talking about 1983-85 2wd 720 brakes.

Thank you. 84 did not specify 4x4 the way 83 did. The truck had these with a stock single master when we got it. It was not running at the time. Can these be run without a booster? Is 7/8 enough bore?

 

[wayno]

I used a stock brake master with no booster on my 521 work truck for a decade or more, but I had to remove the residual valve from the master, if it is not removed the front brakes will drag and eventually seize as the brake master is not made for disc brakes as it has a 10lb residual valve.

I now have power brakes on all my 520/521 trucks, I use 73/74 Datsun 620 boosters, I use the 1979 Datsun 620 brake master, and all have the 83-85 Nissan 720 brake calipers/rotors, well the 520 may have the 1986+ calipers/rotors, at one time I had the 1990 Nissan hardbody V6 dual piston calipers on the work truck, but a couple years ago I changed them when doing a Chassis conversion.

[TJ H]

6 minutes ago, wayno said:

I used a stock brake master with no booster on my 521 work truck for a decade or more, but I had to remove the residual valve from the master, if it is not removed the front brakes will drag and eventually seize as the brake master is not made for disc brakes as it has a 10lb residual valve.

I now have power brakes on all my 520/521 trucks, I use 73/74 Datsun 620 boosters, I use the 1979 Datsun 620 brake master, and all have the 83-85 Nissan 720 brake calipers/rotors, well the 520 may have the 1986+ calipers/rotors, at one time I had the 1990 Nissan hardbody V6 dual piston calipers on the work truck, but a couple years ago I changed them when doing a Chassis conversion.

Appreciate the insight Wayno. Were these brackets commercially available or were these home built? That will play into whether or not I keep them. Think I need to play with the MC rod length. The rest of the system seems solid. All hoses and half the lines are new. Hopefully it’s just air. 

[Charlie69]

The front disc brake brackets are first gen Mike klotz Brackets that he designed for the 14" wheels using the vented rotor and calipers from the later 720s.

This is what you have on your 521, a very well designed and strong disk brake setup.  Mike klotz did the only one that designed for the 14" wheels.

Edited October 6, 2019 by Charlie69

[datzenmike]

7 hours ago, TJ H said:

Thank you. 84 did not specify 4x4 the way 83 did. The truck had these with a stock single master when we got it. It was not running at the time. Can these be run without a booster? Is 7/8 enough bore?

 

As the weight of the trucks went up so did the brake caliper size. Larger calipers need more fluid so the original masters have to travel farther to do this and the pedal travel will feel 'mushy'. You can increase the fluid delivery by using a larger diameter master but as you can't get something for nothing... the effort goes up to push it. Most all Datsuns use a master to reduce the effort. To be fair, a smaller master will still work and the extra travel allows you to modulate the braking during panic stops. You can brake closer to wheel lock up and even recover from lock up while at the same time continuing to brake. I have a 15/16" master (with the stock booster) on my car with larger calipers and I like it. Without the booster reducing the effort needed to achieve the proper brake line pressure the pedal would feel like it has a brick under it. If you go up to 7/8" don't be surprised if you find this. The 620 and the B-210/210 use a small booster that is close to fitting a 521.

 

Most if not all dual masters will already have a disc brake residual valve in it for the fronts. The 15/16" master I used was from a 280zx  with rear discs so the rear residual valve had to be swapped for one for use with drum brakes. 

[Charlie69]

I forgot to ad that the Mike Klotz kit use the 720 disc brake hub.  The early non vented rotor 720, 78/79 620, and the later vented rotor hubs are the same.

[TJ H]

4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

As the weight of the trucks went up so did the brake caliper size. Larger calipers need more fluid so the original masters have to travel farther to do this and the pedal travel will feel 'mushy'. You can increase the fluid delivery by using a larger diameter master but as you can't get something for nothing... the effort goes up to push it. Most all Datsuns use a master to reduce the effort. To be fair, a smaller master will still work and the extra travel allows you to modulate the braking during panic stops. You can brake closer to wheel lock up and even recover from lock up while at the same time continuing to brake. I have a 15/16" master (with the stock booster) on my car with larger calipers and I like it. Without the booster reducing the effort needed to achieve the proper brake line pressure the pedal would feel like it has a brick under it. If you go up to 7/8" don't be surprised if you find this. The 620 and the B-210/210 use a small booster that is close to fitting a 521.

 

Most if not all dual masters will already have a disc brake residual valve in it for the fronts. The 15/16" master I used was from a 280zx  with rear discs so the rear residual valve had to be swapped for one for use with drum brakes. 

I went with a 7/8”s figuring if that was the largest non assisted fluid delivery we could get away with. I have looked into the extended out boosters from the later trucks but not the 200 series. In your opinion a non boosted Dual circuit 7/8’s is still adequate for a 2250lb 521 with serviced drums and 84 720 single piston calipers?

[datzenmike]

ALL masters will work, but some are easier to live with. Like I said everything before the '73 and the early 510s didn't have boosters because light weight and small master diameter. The booster generally reduces effort by about 50%. That's a LOT driving around town. Give it a try. 

[TJ H]

Getting close. Got the manifolds installed, carb on and linkage adjusted. Sub installed, all electrical working including engine bay light. Windshield washer in. Most of the exhaust done but ran out of gas so I will finish that tomorrow. Still waiting center caps, rear view mirror from a friend in Japan, a valve cover my buddy is coating for us. Finally bought a pressure bleeder for the brakes, none of the adapters worked so I had to make one. I gave up on finding the right distributor pedestal so I indexed the oil pump drive and tapped a hole in the one I had and it fires on ether. It will be close if I make his birthday. 

 

 

[BrothersGarage]

Looking awesome!