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Sons first car. 521


TJ H

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Anybody familiar with the inside of the 521 tank? Picked up the freshly cleaned and lined tank finally. Put 3 gallons in and tried to pressurize the tank from the emission return line, nothing. Put a vacuum brake bleeder on the fuel line, nothing. Blew air through the fuel line the then more tried vacuum again and finally got fuel. Disconnect and fuel resends into the line. Connect the line and try to use the fuel pump to pull fuel up. Empties bowl. Get three more gallons. Two into truck for a total of five. Fill a plastic bottle and nurse engine. Its pulling fuel but also air bubbles. No leaks from the lines. If I was getting air from any of the factory lines I should also have fuel leaks somewhere from the tank to the filter. Thinking they dicked up the fuel pick up in the tank. 
 

update, found a loose evap tank line but no change. Is that tank relevant with most emissions equipment removed?

Edited by TJ H
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There's no return line just a vent line to the driver's side of the engine. It's connected to what's called the flow guide valve and it allows gas fumes to be stored in the crankcase when the engine is off and the tank develops a very slight pressure from evaporation. When running the fumes are drawn out the block vent tube and into the PCV valve while at the same time allowing filtered air from the air filter back into the tank to replace gas as the tank empties. This prevents gas fumes from escaping into the environment.

 

The other line from the tank is the fuel feed line to the fuel pump.

 

At the tank, and above it in the wheel well, is a smaller tank (called a reservoir) for collecting vented air as the tank is refueled and this vents into the filler tube.

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17 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

There's no return line just a vent line to the driver's side of the engine. It's connected to what's called the flow guide valve and it allows gas fumes to be stored in the crankcase when the engine is off and the tank develops a very slight pressure from evaporation. When running the fumes are drawn out the block vent tube and into the PCV valve while at the same time allowing filtered air from the air filter back into the tank to replace gas as the tank empties. This prevents gas fumes from escaping into the environment.

 

The other line from the tank is the fuel feed line to the fuel pump.

 

At the tank, and above it in the wheel well, is a smaller tank (called a reservoir) for collecting vented air as the tank is refueled and this vents into the filler tube.

The well tank is hooked up in the back but is just an open line in the engine bay. I put a PCV in the intake and connected it directly to the crankcase vent. Then in stalled an elbow the air filter to complete the system and connected it to the valve cover. Pickup line is submerged. The hose at the tank and filter are new. The air has to be coming from somewhere. The filter is damn near peculating but is somewhat intermittent.   
 

79-AB484-D-C063-45-F9-8-B77-F55904-E735-

Edited by TJ H
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So it is definitely a pickup tube sucking air. We are heading to Yosemite to go camping for his birthday and I did not want to put off him driving it on his birthday so I popped out the sender and dropped a size 4 AN line in the hole and let him drive it. He got his Ratsun hoodie too. 
 

E06-B69-C2-EFDE-474-C-9-A88-BF799-B45938

 

71-DFDF39-7-B94-44-BE-9-C50-AEB4802-BD9-

 

 

Edited by TJ H
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6 hours ago, d.p said:

That's awesome man!  You are a good dad and hopefully your son appreciates you accordingly.  

Appreciate it. He “said” he wasn’t disappointed when the truck wouldn’t run but was way happy when he did and got to drive it for the first time. He does take things for granted like stuff I make and when an engine fires up right away. He will learn though. It rides surprisingly well. Would not call it quick though. I’ll see it I can get anymore out of it after break in. Got to make a permanent fix to the tank and have a couple odds and ends still coming in. New weatherstripping and insulating the cab paid off. It was quite and solid well the exhaust is not quite. 

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On 10/18/2019 at 10:23 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

I like the battery jumper hook up but think they are to close together . Jumper cable clamps are too big and most kids will shortnthem out or slip when car starts.

 

your muffler looks like it’s on the Loud side.a small turbo Walker quiet at least for old people

 

I see I have a ballast resistor you still have points or using a Pertonix conversion?

Sorry. Was camping in Yosemite. The jumpers are pretty close but son wanted both. I only have positive on my 58 and use chassis like wayno said. I told him for jumping to do the same. It is convenient for timing lights, air compressors, etc;  he’s a Boy Scout and I am sure it will come in handy at some point. They have covers so I am not worried about jumper cables shorting if he uses positive and chassis for negative. 
 

The muffler is too loud for someone that likes quite but he wanted to be heard and as a parent it is harder for him to sneak out. When I made his exhaust I added V bands to both sides of the muffler so it will not be hard change later if desired. 
 

Still using the ballast resistor due to not being able to find a matchbox and running a $60 Chinese amazon distributor. I heard they burn out easy. Will switch to high energy and a later date. 

Edited by TJ H
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There is a 60$ Chinese dist? Like to see the link on that. I know there is a Pertronix electric conversion that out there.

smart on the battery post cover and the v band for the exhaust. Yes it’s going to be loud. I think is louder than how fast it actually goes. His girlfriends other boyfriend will appreciate it When hes jumping out the back window.

I have a dynomax super turbo but will get a more quiet if it ever wears out. But that has been 19 yrs ago.So build quality is good on them USA made

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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The battery ground is on the block. Using chassis for ground when jump starting is iffy. How does the ground on the block get to the chassis when engine and transmission mounts are rubber, so are shocks and leaf springs and rad hoses. Engine is effectively insulated from the rest of the vehicle. There may be a chassis ground strap but it's only 12 or 14 gauge, not nearly thick enough for what a starter draws. I've welded the throttle cable on a 521 before from the battery positive touching the hood.

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

There is a 60$ Chinese dist? Like to see the link on that. I know there is a Pertronix electric conversion that out there.

smart on the battery post cover and the v band for the exhaust. Yes it’s going to be loud. I think is louder than how fast it actually goes. His girlfriends other boyfriend will appreciate it When hes jumping out the back window.

I have a dynomax super turbo but will get a more quiet if it ever wears out. But that has been 19 yrs ago.So build quality is good on them USA made

New Ignition Distributor Fits For Nissan Datsun L16 L18 180B 200B L20 620 Truck BlueBird Stanza https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KPRCQM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5jqRDbZVNBC9E

 

 

yes to louder than it is fast but it sounds quite good actually. 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The battery ground is on the block. Using chassis for ground when jump starting is iffy. How does the ground on the block get to the chassis when engine and transmission mounts are rubber, so are shocks and leaf springs and rad hoses. Engine is effectively insulated from the rest of the vehicle. There may be a chassis ground strap but it's only 12 or 14 gauge, not nearly thick enough for what a starter draws. I've welded the throttle cable on a 521 before from the battery positive touching the hood.

I redundant ground. Batt to chassis, body to batt, engine to batt, body to chassis, engine to chassis, engine to body. 
starter needs a ground path but so does ignition. 

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Everything on the fuse box does but for that a 12 gauge wire will do anywhere between the block and the body sheet metal. For a starter which draws hundreds of amps it should have a dedicated ground post for jumping. Or place jumper onto the block.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Everything on the fuse box does but for that a 12 gauge wire will do anywhere between the block and the body sheet metal. For a starter which draws hundreds of amps it should have a dedicated ground post for jumping. Or place jumper onto the block.

I can promise that the truck has adequate grounds to support the negative lead being put anywhere. The easiest and most obvious would be the engine itself anyway so It will be a non issue. 

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yes the ground on a 521 usually is by the fuel pump there is a bolt hole.

 

TJH

 The distributor did you have to move the spindal to get the timming right? as this is a generic distributor and most poepl think its going to come out in the right locationat TDC but that is not true as the front pedestal is usually never the same as the orginal. As I saw one review the guy was complaining it did nto fit right. I assume this was it.

 

also the dist Is it a plastic bootm where it meets with the dist drive spindal? I would assume over time this wears out unlike the stock metal one..

 

Put if it works I say let us know if it fails. But key is keep the ballast resisitor in place as if removed it voul pop the module. I notice back in the day the Mallory Unilites would POP but in the fine print in the instructins it say keep the high resisitance coil and ballast installed. That were they get destroyed as people put low ohm coils or remove the ballast.

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

yes the ground on a 521 usually is by the fuel pump there is a bolt hole.

 

TJH

 The distributor did you have to move the spindal to get the timming right? as this is a generic distributor and most poepl think its going to come out in the right locationat TDC but that is not true as the front pedestal is usually never the same as the orginal. As I saw one review the guy was complaining it did nto fit right. I assume this was it.

 

also the dist Is it a plastic bootm where it meets with the dist drive spindal? I would assume over time this wears out unlike the stock metal one..

 

Put if it works I say let us know if it fails. But key is keep the ballast resisitor in place as if removed it voul pop the module. I notice back in the day the Mallory Unilites would POP but in the fine print in the instructins it say keep the high resisitance coil and ballast installed. That were they get destroyed as people put low ohm coils or remove the ballast.

Yes to all. Plastic bottom. Indexed oil pump drive as it was too retarded. I read the same about the modules. Hoping to pick up something better in eagle rock. 

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1 hour ago, d.p said:

What did you use for a steering wheel adapter? 

I bought several when we were still in Japan but they all left the gap and no turn signals. The truck came with a later model wheel so I bought a 521 wheel off eBay but it was pretty beat. When we got the parts truck the stock wheel was in good shape so I cut down the eBay wheel. I shortened it to move the wheel closer to the dash and drilled it for the nardi steering wheel adapter disc and put 4” heat shrink around it. The steering shaft stuck out too far so I bought a 1/2” spacer for the horn. Turned out pretty well. Like that it is a bit further away.

 

The panel in the middle of the truck is a defi knockoff I picked him up in Japan for $100. gives him a tach, shift light, warm up warning, over temp warning, low voltage warning, low oil pressure warning, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp. It does other stuff that Datsun can’t use like speedo, boost, egt etc;
 

8-E88-B398-F154-4464-8988-88964-C6462-ED
662680-FE-4516-46-EB-962-A-D226-BA1-E4-E

Edited by TJ H
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