Sons first car. 521

[TJ H]

6 hours ago, BrothersGarage said:

Looking awesome! 

Thanks. Got the exhaust finished up and hung. Decided to start her on a gas can. Running well. Does 12 degrees and an idle of 750rpm sound about right for a L20b with and cam one step above an sss with and Weber sound about right? No hard starts, seems to like it. Also what in normal idle oil pressure? I know the manual calls for 20/50. Currently have 5/30 break in oil in it and oil pressure of 20psi when idling warm and jumps up with throttle. Thinking it’s fine once the proper oil is in it. 

Edited October 15, 2019 by TJ H
Typo

[datzenmike]

I wouldn't run any oil with a 5 in it. It's the rings that need to wear in to make a good seal. This is done by driving it under varying loads. Oil is for lubricating bearings. On the subject of oil... make sure you have a high ZDDP level oil in it. Today's oils are formulated for roller or bucket type cams and not the rocker or lifter on cams of 50 years ago. I switched to a light diesel oil years ago as they are exempt from today's mandated lower levels for gas engines. ZDDP is an anti scuff additive that is slowly being reduced in today's oil. I'm using Shell Rotella T4 14w40 but you can get 10W30 in it also. Shell Dello 400 is similar and Esso makes one for diesels also. Pretty much any R or racing oil will also have the earlier high protection levels. Ask any auto parts store for a 'flat tappet' protection oil and they'll know what you mean. I would avoid synthetic oils in an L series as a waste of money.

 

20 at hot idle is fine and yes this will go up with thicker oil. It will likely max out at 50-65 PSI. This is set by the regulator in the pump and not the oil viscosity.

[banzai510(hainz)]

timming set to what you think is best. Yes with a Cam I would adv more . Long as it don't PIngs I guess.

 

as for oil ,I run what ever is cheap at Walmart that's sells in a 5qt container but the diesel oils are most likely better.

I got 195K on my 521 and I run Cheap Walmart brand to the diesel oils.  change 2 times a year that's it. For summer then Winter.  I might go 10/40 10/30 in winter. Straight 30 weight in Calif would be fine also as its warm there. But Im not a oil expert. But my bearing were all fine when took motor apart and only needed a polish.2 motors.A place in Austraila uses Datsun cranks and puts them in Cosworth motors as they are stronger .

 

Truck will get smashed before 50k miles anyway so I don't think its a real worry about the oil. Some one on a iPhone is going to kill it not paying attention

[datzenmike]

Also a good reason to run with your lights on. Today's drivers look and not seeing headlights think 'no car' and pull out on you

[TJ H]

I like that on this forum that the resident experts chime in often. The break in oil is heavy in anti scuff zddp. I have gotten away from flat tappet in recent years but have eaten cams before with modern oil. I also have various additives he can run after break in. Jegs had a starter pack that came with rtv, thread sealer, break in oil etc; that I got him, I didn’t select 5/30. We live in a hilly area so as soon as we bed the rings with the varying loads and high gear pulls I will be putting in a more appropriate oil. Hadn’t thought of diesel oil before, will have to look into that. Started the truck this morning and at 1200rpm (electric choke) it was pushing 69psi. 
 

All I drive is old shit. That’s is why I add modern brakes and overdrive to everything hoping it will enable the car and myself to survive in the distracted world. His stereo will also text me if he is in an accident and gave him four point harnesses to keep his chest away from the steering column. Sons birthday is in two days, still waiting on a gas tank I dropped off in August. 
 

From building Nissan’s in Japan, I can say that Nissan does make strong stock cranks. Didn’t stop me from getting a stage 2 stroker for my GTR though. 

Edited October 15, 2019 by TJ H
Addition

[banzai510(hainz)]

I read that a Datsun 510 L 16 rod was tested to be strong as a Chevy LS1 motor,But one needs ARP bolts.

But lack of water warps cylinder heads unlike a old cast iron American heads can take the abuse longer in this regards. Its why so many Jap cars got killed off is minor issues like low water levels.

Now all cars are aluminum head.

 

also tell son a 521 when its wet is the worst handling thing ever. Esp during the 1st rain when the oil come out on the streets. Key is drive slow and lots of space. Plus rig is small. Where Im at Lots of Ford 350s and Silverados  driving up your ass

Edited October 15, 2019 by banzai510(hainz)

[TJ H]

5 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I read that a Datsun 510 L 16 rod was tested to be strong as a Chevy LS1 motor,But one needs ARP bolts.

But lack of water warps cylinder heads unlike a old cast iron American heads can take the abuse longer in this regards. Its why so many Jap cars got killed off is minor issues like low water levels.

Now all cars are aluminum head

I read the same. Even though it is a stock compression L20b I added a set of arp bolts. 

[TJ H]

58 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

also tell son a 521 when its wet is the worst handling thing ever. Esp during the 1st rain when the oil come out on the streets. Key is drive slow and lots of space. Plus rig is small. Where Im at Lots of Ford 350s and Silverados  driving up your ass

Ive warned him. Leaf springs and torsion bars do not make for performance handling. I could see a four link and a front suspension swap in his future. 

[G-Duax]

Dumping my rear leafs, and going 4-link completely changed how my truck handles.

No more tail happy, wanting to swap ends at the least little chance.

[TJ H]

51 minutes ago, G-Duax said:

Dumping my rear leafs, and going 4-link completely changed how my truck handles.

No more tail happy, wanting to swap ends at the least little chance.

What manufacturer did you use? I assume universal and trim to fit? I put a no limit on my 58 and now I can play with corvettes. 

[datzenmike]

9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Key is drive slow and lots of space. Plus rig is small. Where Im at Lots of Ford 350s and Silverados  driving up your ass

 

Get old engine that burns oil. The smoke will keep them back.

[BrothersGarage]

Have you thought about hooking up a 3rd brake light for these little guys?

 

13 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Get old engine that burns oil. The smoke will keep them back.

 

Hook up an extra windshield squirter to spray oil into manifold or something 😄

 

Edited October 16, 2019 by BrothersGarage

[datzenmike]

On holidays I carry an orange traffic cone that's visible through the rear hatch window. A third brake light is a great idea but haven't found anything that doesn't look retarted or block rear view. Thought of a truck one that mounts on the back of the roof (I have a wagon) but all are shaped wrong. 

[TJ H]

2 hours ago, BrothersGarage said:

Have you thought about hooking up a 3rd brake light for these little guys?

 

 

Hook up an extra windshield squirter to spray oil into manifold or something 😄

 

I have thought about mounting something like this on the front lip of the bed or on top of the box we have back there. 
 

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/morimoto-5stop-brake-light.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_5rtBRDxARIsAJfxvYCk4MeIMeXAHS1z9l_MBOIX2b4iVcPhFl0vpca_hQX9qRFnRSZ-P9caArLvEALw_wcB

[TJ H]

Taillight question. How come all the replacement taillights are white/red/orange and not red/white? Are they generic? For 620’s? These appear to be correct for a 521 but the reverse light socket is rotted out. 
 

 

[BrothersGarage]

This is the kit i got to stick between the rubber seal and the rear window like the Z guys do (12" 😉 )

 

https://www.diodedynamics.com/hd-led-red-semi-flex-strip-single.html?fbclid=IwAR2yfcVrEUiIWNqJmu0-q8JbWfZpaeXZ4LbH7jP6RXHK6YijNCOsVsal6oQ

video of how it sits in the seal betwetween the glass: 

 

 

 

 

25 minutes ago, TJ H said:

Taillight question. How come all the replacement taillights are white/red/orange and not red/white? Are they generic? For 620’s? These appear to be correct for a 521 but the reverse light socket is rotted out. 
 

 

The majority of the tail light replacements you see on eBay are the 3 color that include amber. They are generic replacement and not only are they too small, but they are made of beer cans. No joke. Unless you have some custom tails made like mrbigtanker's "euro" tail lights, you'll be looking for the full red lenses like you currently have. 

There is this guy that is currently doing his own refab lenses: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Datsun-521-UTE-1970-Taillight-cover-lens-new-1-Pair-after-market/273871253759
 

However that's kidna steep for non OEM as I got a full set of tails and housing for $200 so unless you're dying for some new lenses you may want to hold off. 

As far as the back of your sockets being rotted out, that's suuuuuuuuuper common for 521s.



That's how the 2nd set of tails I got for $200 are, and the set that are currently on my green 521 have been fixed prior to me owning it using aftermarket rear plastic clips ( I can take a picture) ,
 

Edited October 16, 2019 by BrothersGarage

[TJ H]

18 minutes ago, BrothersGarage said:

As far as the back of your sockets being rotted out, that's suuuuuuuuuper common for 521s.



That's how the 2nd set of tails I got for $200 are, and the set that are currently on my green 521 have been fixed prior to me owning it using aftermarket rear plastic clips ( I can take a picture) ,
 

 

It is more the actual housing. The plastic is gone on the back. PO just wrapped a bunch of tape around it. Thought about making a new back out of sheet metal but seems like a lot of work. 
 

[BrothersGarage]

Yeah, the housing on my green truck were bad (not that bad) and replaced with a kit but as far gone as those are you will be better off making a new one or picking up one that you can work with. 

The more recent set I picked up with the interior plastic is so brittle that if you touch it with your finger it instantly turns to dust - which looks to be the state yours are in so I planned on making a set of led tail lights and just keep the stock lenses & factory mounting bracket while redoing the back completely. 

[TJ H]

3 hours ago, BrothersGarage said:

Yeah, the housing on my green truck were bad (not that bad) and replaced with a kit but as far gone as those are you will be better off making a new one or picking up one that you can work with. 

The more recent set I picked up with the interior plastic is so brittle that if you touch it with your finger it instantly turns to dust - which looks to be the state yours are in so I planned on making a set of led tail lights and just keep the stock lenses & factory mounting bracket while redoing the back completely. 

The stop and turn sections are OK but reverse is spider webbed and brittle like the ones you have. A new back would suck. Would be nice to know someone with a 3D printer and some free time. 

[BrothersGarage]

1 hour ago, TJ H said:

The stop and turn sections are OK but reverse is spider webbed and brittle like the ones you have. A new back would suck. Would be nice to know someone with a 3D printer and some free time. 

as you can see - this is what the entire back section is doing, lip and all so I'm in the same boat

 

 

PS: 

11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

On holidays I carry an orange traffic cone that's visible through the rear hatch window. A third brake light is a great idea but haven't found anything that doesn't look retarted or block rear view. Thought of a truck one that mounts on the back of the roof (I have a wagon) but all are shaped wrong. 

 

PS: this is how thick the 12" diode dynamics led light is:

[wayno]

Perhaps you have enough good plastic left to make a sheet metal piece and attach it to the socket area with silicone or some other cement, a file will create the notches and a hole saw will create the bulb/socket hole, it is a plastic bulb holder so the bulb functions should not be effected.

[TJ H]

1 hour ago, BrothersGarage said:

PS: 

 

PS: this is how thick the 12" diode dynamics led light is:

The cab is so barren. I like the idea but don’t want to see wires. Our truck is lowered. Thinking mounting on the bed box is better for us. That is where I relocated the battery too anyway so we have wire routing holes. The battery tray was rotted out and someone fiberglassed over the old location. 
 

[TJ H]

45 minutes ago, wayno said:

Perhaps you have enough good plastic left to make a sheet metal piece and attach it to the socket area with silicone or some other cement, a file will create the notches and a hole saw will create the bulb/socket hole, it is a plastic bulb holder so the bulb functions should not be effected.

I am definitely capable of making a metal back and saving the housing. Problem is I’ve made a lot of stuff for this truck and I want to move onto stuffing new sub frames, coil overs, disc brakes and a vtec into my mini. Freshen up my 58 Fleetside shocks and get an alignment and put a new fuel injection computer in my chevelle. Plus build a new patio and shed doors in the backyard. Maybe it’s time for young Mr. Higgins to try his hand at creative problem solving. 
 

Front brake lines for discs. 

 

stock shifter plate with relocated shifter hole for 5sp. 

 

steering wheel adapter. 

 

speaker pods

 

Jumping points. 

 

Plus stainless exhaust, bracketry to make a Z fan work on a 620 water pump and line up with a Z alternator, kill switch. And all the little things this basket case required to give him a good intro into old cars. He wants a harbor freight train horn, told him he is on his own for that project. He turns 16 tomorrow and we still don’t have a gas tank. I took it to be cleaned two months ago when I got back from deployment. 

Edited October 17, 2019 by TJ H
Misspelled word.

[wayno]

I was going to say you could make the metal pieces on a rainy day, but maybe it doesn't rain down there very often.

 

[TJ H]

Just now, wayno said:

I was going to say you could make the metal pieces on a rainy day, but maybe it doesn't rain down there very often.

 

I’ll end up doing it. Actually it rained quite a bit while I was gone. Assume this will be a dry year though.