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TJ H

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About TJ H

  • Rank
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  • Location
    San Diego
  • Cars
    1971 Datsun 521
  • Interests
    Cars

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  1. I can promise that the truck has adequate grounds to support the negative lead being put anywhere. The easiest and most obvious would be the engine itself anyway so It will be a non issue.
  2. I redundant ground. Batt to chassis, body to batt, engine to batt, body to chassis, engine to chassis, engine to body. starter needs a ground path but so does ignition.
  3. New Ignition Distributor Fits For Nissan Datsun L16 L18 180B 200B L20 620 Truck BlueBird Stanza https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KPRCQM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5jqRDbZVNBC9E yes to louder than it is fast but it sounds quite good actually.
  4. Sorry. Was camping in Yosemite. The jumpers are pretty close but son wanted both. I only have positive on my 58 and use chassis like wayno said. I told him for jumping to do the same. It is convenient for timing lights, air compressors, etc; he’s a Boy Scout and I am sure it will come in handy at some point. They have covers so I am not worried about jumper cables shorting if he uses positive and chassis for negative. The muffler is too loud for someone that likes quite but he wanted to be heard and as a parent it is harder for him to sneak out. When I made his exhaust I added V bands to both sides of the muffler so it will not be hard change later if desired. Still using the ballast resistor due to not being able to find a matchbox and running a $60 Chinese amazon distributor. I heard they burn out easy. Will switch to high energy and a later date.
  5. It was a pain keeping it green. Needed to replace the hood, tailgate and passenger door. Bought a green parts truck so I didn’t have to paint it.
  6. Appreciate it. He “said” he wasn’t disappointed when the truck wouldn’t run but was way happy when he did and got to drive it for the first time. He does take things for granted like stuff I make and when an engine fires up right away. He will learn though. It rides surprisingly well. Would not call it quick though. I’ll see it I can get anymore out of it after break in. Got to make a permanent fix to the tank and have a couple odds and ends still coming in. New weatherstripping and insulating the cab paid off. It was quite and solid well the exhaust is not quite.
  7. So it is definitely a pickup tube sucking air. We are heading to Yosemite to go camping for his birthday and I did not want to put off him driving it on his birthday so I popped out the sender and dropped a size 4 AN line in the hole and let him drive it. He got his Ratsun hoodie too.
  8. The well tank is hooked up in the back but is just an open line in the engine bay. I put a PCV in the intake and connected it directly to the crankcase vent. Then in stalled an elbow the air filter to complete the system and connected it to the valve cover. Pickup line is submerged. The hose at the tank and filter are new. The air has to be coming from somewhere. The filter is damn near peculating but is somewhat intermittent.
  9. Anybody familiar with the inside of the 521 tank? Picked up the freshly cleaned and lined tank finally. Put 3 gallons in and tried to pressurize the tank from the emission return line, nothing. Put a vacuum brake bleeder on the fuel line, nothing. Blew air through the fuel line the then more tried vacuum again and finally got fuel. Disconnect and fuel resends into the line. Connect the line and try to use the fuel pump to pull fuel up. Empties bowl. Get three more gallons. Two into truck for a total of five. Fill a plastic bottle and nurse engine. Its pulling fuel but also air bubbles. No leaks from the lines. If I was getting air from any of the factory lines I should also have fuel leaks somewhere from the tank to the filter. Thinking they dicked up the fuel pick up in the tank. update, found a loose evap tank line but no change. Is that tank relevant with most emissions equipment removed?
  10. I’ll end up doing it. Actually it rained quite a bit while I was gone. Assume this will be a dry year though.
  11. I am definitely capable of making a metal back and saving the housing. Problem is I’ve made a lot of stuff for this truck and I want to move onto stuffing new sub frames, coil overs, disc brakes and a vtec into my mini. Freshen up my 58 Fleetside shocks and get an alignment and put a new fuel injection computer in my chevelle. Plus build a new patio and shed doors in the backyard. Maybe it’s time for young Mr. Higgins to try his hand at creative problem solving. Front brake lines for discs. stock shifter plate with relocated shifter hole for 5sp. steering wheel adapter. speaker pods Jumping points. Plus stainless exhaust, bracketry to make a Z fan work on a 620 water pump and line up with a Z alternator, kill switch. And all the little things this basket case required to give him a good intro into old cars. He wants a harbor freight train horn, told him he is on his own for that project. He turns 16 tomorrow and we still don’t have a gas tank. I took it to be cleaned two months ago when I got back from deployment.
  12. The cab is so barren. I like the idea but don’t want to see wires. Our truck is lowered. Thinking mounting on the bed box is better for us. That is where I relocated the battery too anyway so we have wire routing holes. The battery tray was rotted out and someone fiberglassed over the old location.
  13. The stop and turn sections are OK but reverse is spider webbed and brittle like the ones you have. A new back would suck. Would be nice to know someone with a 3D printer and some free time.
  14. It is more the actual housing. The plastic is gone on the back. PO just wrapped a bunch of tape around it. Thought about making a new back out of sheet metal but seems like a lot of work.
  15. Taillight question. How come all the replacement taillights are white/red/orange and not red/white? Are they generic? For 620’s? These appear to be correct for a 521 but the reverse light socket is rotted out.
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